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"Built In" tool boxes

Snowbound

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Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
64
Location
Kelowna, BC
Hi guys,

I have 3 rolling tool boxes I want to build into a work bench. I'll have 2 together on the right and one on the left, with a sitting station in the middle. My garage floor isn't too level and I want to remove the casters and add leveling feet to the boxes to help square things up.

Any ideas on where to find something like that? The boxes are Mastercraft from Canadian Tire and made by Waterloo. I see Lista and some of the modular designs have a leg option available.

Thanks!:beer:
 
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boro_boy70

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Mar 29, 2009
Messages
627
Location
Whitesboro(Utica), NY
Somewhere on here there are some post's about doing just that. I don't remember exactly where. I think it may be in one of the HF 13 drawer toolbox threads. I'm sure someone will remember it.
 

rsieracki

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Mar 3, 2010
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1,679
Location
Chicagoland Area
I have 2 of the 13 drawer HF boxes built in... i built a base on my floor or treated lumber, shims and plywood that made it level that the boxes sit on... worked well the "plan" is to cap the front end with trex like a toe kick but my garage is a work in process notice the right is higher then the left on thebase.... level as can be across the tops of the boxes
048.jpg


i framed a wall a touch higher then the boxes for the workbench top to sit on so i dont rattle the box while pounding on something
042.jpg


045.jpg

in the spirit of rediculous overkill i tied it into the stem wall/foundation aswell... used tapcons where appropriate
 

rieferman

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May 18, 2009
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2,586
Location
Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
+1 on putting it on a base. I'd use PT wood, level the base to the ground, and set the boxes on top. When you remove the casters to set it on the base, you should be able to remove the drawers to use those same caster holes to fasten to your base.

In your case, with a sitting area in the middle, you'd build two bases.
 

ChristopherLutz

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Jun 17, 2010
Messages
270
Location
Flower Mound, TX (DFW)
Wow - that framing is stout. I LOVE the look and functionality of these built in ideas; unfortunately, I don't know how long I'll be in my house - with something like what's pictured above....I'm pretty sure the next buyer will enjoy the fruit of your labor.
 

rsieracki

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Mar 3, 2010
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Location
Chicagoland Area
Wow - that framing is stout. I LOVE the look and functionality of these built in ideas; unfortunately, I don't know how long I'll be in my house - with something like what's pictured above....I'm pretty sure the next buyer will enjoy the fruit of your labor.

Its in the house i grew up in and im an only child, comming up on 30 this summer.... i will be the next owner eventually :)

in term of electric i have outlets close by but once can never have enough. my design mistake was end to end is a touch over 8feet... i can get a premade hunk of butcherblock or most other surfaces is the right dimention without over paying due to the lil extra i need.... right now i have a few pieces of plywood on the top until i finish it
 

csp

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Mar 23, 2010
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5,720
Location
Franktown, CO
I used these levelers. I welded the threaded "nut" to a piece of 1/8" steel plate cut to the same rectangular size as the caster bases and cut the same hole pattern for the bolts that the casters use.

With these installed my toolbox sits on a 4x4 base sitting directly on the floor. I added the levelers to level the box on the base rather than shimming the base.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=383
 

ADaughen

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Aug 2, 2010
Messages
373
Location
Ohio
+1 on putting it on a base. I'd use PT wood, level the base to the ground, and set the boxes on top. When you remove the casters to set it on the base, you should be able to remove the drawers to use those same caster holes to fasten to your base.

In your case, with a sitting area in the middle, you'd build two bases.


If PT = Pressure Treated, that stuff is bad for metal...

http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion.html?source=hpnav


I just want to protect your boxes. :thumbup:
 

Jayincali

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Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
256
Location
So Cal
The boxes were designed so that they could sit on 4 casters so you don't need a platform unless you want one.

+1

I got 4 T6 aluminum pucks about 3" tall x 4" round and placed one at each corner on the caster mounts. The cabinet is now about 2" off the ground. I didn't like the idea of a solid platform sitting straight on the floor incase of a water heater rupture, washing machine hose breakage or any other type of water hazard. This way any moisture or water can flow, plus the aluminum won't rust out over time.

I'll be building my work bench in the next month or so and the tool cab will have the "built in" look to it as well.

<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/?action=view&current=photo2-4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/photo2-4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
OP
S

Snowbound

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Apr 24, 2008
Messages
64
Location
Kelowna, BC
All good ideas, thanks.

The restaurant legs are kind of what I was thinking, but at $17 each, is a little steep.

4203.jpg


A wood base is an option, but I'd have to shim it quite a bit. I guess I could add a rubber base around the toe kick to give it a more finished look and hide any shims. Would cost less for sure!

I would just use spruce 2x4, not treated. I can't see it rotting in a dry garage in less than 10 years. We never stay in the same house more than 5 years anyways.:lol_hitti

Thanks!
 

PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
Messages
4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
I did similar to rsieracki. Used a bunch of file cabinets I picked up for free from an office that was discarding them. I have them in my woodshop to store power tools and supplies.

attachment.php


As for leveling feet, I just grabbed four of them off a clothes washer my parents were throwing out. Might check an appliance store to see what they do with the old machines. They might let you grab a bunch before they recycle them.
 

pgreen

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Jun 3, 2006
Messages
181
Location
Venus, TX
Lots of places sell different types of machine leveling feet. You can get all kinds of ratings, types, sizes, thread sizes, etc.

TMF-553-A_ImageC.jpg


Reid Tool and Supply in Michigan sells all kinds of these, along with any kind of machine handles, rubber bumpers, etc. that you may need.

Start here for the leveling feet / leveling mounts:
http://www.reidsupply.com/Results.aspx?st=LEVELING+FEET&pid=0

or just start at www.reidsupply.com and search yourself. I have no connection, except as a happy customer. Amazing stock supply, and rarely have I run across something in their giant catalog that they didn't have on the shelf.
 
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pgreen

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Jun 3, 2006
Messages
181
Location
Venus, TX
How about a nut on the cabinet and then a bolt as the adjustable levelers?

That will work too in a pinch. If I were to do that, I would use a carriage head bolt so you have a smooth round head. The ridges on a hex head bolt could dig into the concrete if you were turning them while loaded.

The machine feet will typically swivel so the foot itself doesn't turn against the floor, and most have a ball-joint so they sit flat on the floor even if it is sloped. A bolt will work, but a real foot is better. Depends on where you want to spend your money.
 

PSYKO_Inc

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Oct 23, 2010
Messages
565
Location
Fairfield, CA
Personally, I'd leave the wheels on the box and build the bench over top of it, that way you can wheel the box out to clean under/behind it every once in a while.
 

crewchief888

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Dec 3, 2009
Messages
13,751
Location
NW indiana
if you wanted DIY adjustable legs, you could use a full thread carriage bolt through a hockey puck.
drill a through hole for the bolt, and countersink both sides for the head on one side, and a nut on the other side.
use a flat plate in the original caster mounting holes with a nut welded to it.

just a thought :dunno:


:beer:
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
All good ideas, thanks.

The restaurant legs are kind of what I was thinking, but at $17 each, is a little steep.

4203.jpg


A wood base is an option, but I'd have to shim it quite a bit. I guess I could add a rubber base around the toe kick to give it a more finished look and hide any shims. Would cost less for sure!

I would just use spruce 2x4, not treated. I can't see it rotting in a dry garage in less than 10 years. We never stay in the same house more than 5 years anyways.:lol_hitti

Thanks!

4227.jpg

$3.49 ea. and they screw on to threaded pipe ******* placed in flanges.

Who does your research? ;) :D
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
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Northern Central Ohio
I was going to add built in Craftsman boxes as fastener storage but I after opening and seeing how cheap they were, I took them back.
 

MeentSS02

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Aug 12, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Dayton, OH
The floor in my garage is fairly level, so it made things a bit easier:

IMG_0652.jpg


What they replaced:

IMG_0655.jpg


Still a work in progress, but it is coming along:

IMG_0675.jpg
 

MeentSS02

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Aug 12, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Dayton, OH
Yes...they are Lista cabinets. I had never seen any in person before these arrived, so it was a leap of faith, but I've been very pleased. The full extension drawers (each rated at 440 lbs) are very nice, and hold a LOT of ****. My tools may not be that nice, but the cabinets sure are.

I went through Jamie Roark at Roark Industrial Solutions for the cabinets and butcher block top - I also have matching overhead cabinets that have since been installed.
 

W650Mike

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Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
1,093
Location
North Central Texas
I left the casters on mine so they could be moved if necessary. The top is also screwed to a sleeper on the wall. It’s very stable, but easily disassembled.

BTW: Those Listas are sweet!
 

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Jack Olsen

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Mar 22, 2009
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Los Angeles
I used ordinary lumber. I don't think it required any shims. The climate here is dry enough so that it's not going to rot in my lifetime. I set them back so there was a little toe clearance. (The black piece on the right is just decorative.)

15201115.jpg


But if I want adjustable legs, I would find out the thread on the casters and duplicate it with inexpensive threaded feet from McMaster or Grainger's.
 
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santagary

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Mar 23, 2010
Messages
821
Location
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
My 4' by 10' is fastened to the wall with two hooks and eyes and is on casters...easy to unhook and move around for cleaning or whatever!
 
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