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Bull's Big Lista

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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Ha ha! Needs paint!

Hey, while you are in here, can you PM me your address? I've been sitting on something for you for a looooong time!

Okay, what I'll do is go dig out my Lista hard copy catalogs I got stashed away. I'm determined to find out the model number.

Do they stamp these things somewhere? How are people supposed to find the model number for older units, if they want to order parts or whatnot?

I got the original warranty card and lock and key slip with this thing. The lock number is written down, but all the other info is generic. On the warranty card, at the bottom it reads 30M 9/97. I wonder if this relates to the date of manufacture, or at least the date the card was printed?
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Some answers for you

The 9/97 is the date of manufacture. Your cabinet is a DW model and uses the older style drawer suspension which has a separate tray under the drawer. This design went out of production about 5 years ago.

You should not bolt casters directly to the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet is NOT designed for that. Lista uses a front to back waffle plate to evenly distribute the load across the bottom. At a load capacity of 440 lbs per drawer, the overall weight can get quite high therefore the waffle plates become very important. The extreme duty bases have a 2"x2" angle iron base that the cabinet sits in to hold even more of a load.

As far as casters, LISTA uses several different load capacity casters amd they are all made in the USA by Colson Caster and for the most part are 2" x 6" with a 2" x 4" option. There are heavy duty black caster wheels and the extra heavy duty red wheels.

As far as models go, there are 12 footprints ranging from a full depth at 28-1/2" and a narrow depth of 22-1/2" and width of 11-7/8" up to 56-1/2". Heights are given in terms of millimeters. Lista call out the height spec as the area in which drawers can be fit. The actual housing height is 100 mm more than the drawer capacity. The most common heights are bench height 750mm (33-1/2" overall height), counter height 900mm (39-3/8"), and eye-level 1350 (57").

A couple of other things ... To clean and lube your roller bearings, clean them out with a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and ATF and then lube them with white lithium grease or a few drops of 3-in-One oil. Do not use lube grease; it is too heavy.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Joe
 
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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Joe, thanks for bringing some heavy-duty information to this thread for us!

Let me know what you find in your stash :)
 

glenmore

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

That drawer front and pull look to be in excellent shape! Probably worth it now to make the base cabinet look as nice as possible.
 

CWP1616L

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

You should not bolt casters directly to the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet is NOT designed for that.

I agree one million percent.

Heights are given in terms of millimeters. Lista call out the height spec as the area in which drawers can be fit. The actual housing height is 100 mm more than the drawer capacity. The most common heights are bench height 750mm (33-1/2" overall height), counter height 900mm (39-3/8"), and eye-level 1350 (57").


That explains some of it, but 39-3/8'' + 100mm still doesn't equal 45 inches overall height. Something is still missing. :headscrat
 

Jack Olsen

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull, I've never put casters on them -- since I don't really have room to roll anything anywhere. But if I did, my first approach would be to look at what Lista offers and see what there is to learn from it. If you're holding tools, you're probably not going to approach the capacity of the drawers. In that case, bolting casters directly to the bench probably would work -- although I'll defer to Joe and say that's a risky way to go. And then if I wanted to go heavy duty, it's hard to imagine a failure if you cut a sheet of 3/4" or 1" plywood that's the same size as the cabinet and then run bolts through the casters, the plywood, and the bottom of the cabinet. Maybe that's crazy -- and hopefully someone with a structural engineering background could sound in on it -- but it's also really hard to imagine any tool-box-weight load causing a failure with that, assuming big beefy casters and 3/8" or 1/2" thick bolts. If the steel on the underside of the cabinet is thin, add a 1/8" plate and bolt it all down tight.

Disclaimer: my day job is writing fiction -- not engineering. So no one should take any suggestion from me without confirming that it's actually an okay idea. But still, I have a hard time seeing how my idea would not support a huge amount of weight.
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Jack,

The waffle plates are about 6" wide, 1/2" high, and the depth of the cabinet. They are sort of like a W design looking down the edge. The cabinet corners are not structurally designed for the casters to bolt directly to the base. I have had customers cut a piece of 1/4" steel plate ~6" x 28.5" (full depth cabinet) and bolt the plate and wheels onto the bottom. This helps to carry the load across the bottom.

440 lbs. is lot of weight and the engineers at Lista always do their design work at the maximum specification level so hence over-engineered for a lot of applications.

I must say that I have seen many a cabinet with the wheels bolted directly to the bottom but I can not say of there were any issues at all. I doubt it bu then again Lista cabinets are engineered to the load capacity specifications.

Getting back to casters, the 2" x 6" black casters will support 2400 lbs. while the 2" x 6" red casters will support 3600 lbs. Lista has a blue double-wheel arrangement that is their extreme duty casters set. I think they are rated at 4800 lbs. but I would have to confirm that.
 

CWP1616L

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Motorhead Extraordinaire,

Can you explain why Bull's cabinet measures 45 inches in height? Which model of cabinet would match that measurement?
 

Outlawmws

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

SNIP And then if I wanted to go heavy duty, it's hard to imagine a failure if you cut a sheet of 3/4" or 1" plywood that's the same size as the cabinet and then run bolts through the casters, the plywood, and the bottom of the cabinet. Maybe that's crazy -- and hopefully someone with a structural engineering background could sound in on it -- but it's also really hard to imagine any tool-box-weight load causing a failure with that, assuming big beefy casters and 3/8" or 1/2" thick bolts. If the steel on the underside of the cabinet is thin, add a 1/8" plate and bolt it all down tight.

Disclaimer: my day job is writing fiction -- not engineering. So no one should take any suggestion from me without confirming that it's actually an okay idea. But still, I have a hard time seeing how my idea would not support a huge amount of weight.

The plywood might work, but won't spread the load very far past the edges of the caster mounting plate due to the flexibility of the ply. You would probably get a couple of inches of actual load spreading past the plate.

Jack,

The waffle plates are about 6" wide, 1/2" high, and the depth of the cabinet. They are sort of like a W design looking down the edge. The cabinet corners are not structurally designed for the casters to bolt directly to the base. I have had customers cut a piece of 1/4" steel plate ~6" x 28.5" (full depth cabinet) and bolt the plate and wheels onto the bottom. This helps to carry the load across the bottom.

440 lbs. is lot of weight and the engineers at Lista always do their design work at the maximum specification level so hence over-engineered for a lot of applications.

I must say that I have seen many a cabinet with the wheels bolted directly to the bottom but I can not say of there were any issues at all. I doubt it bu then again Lista cabinets are engineered to the load capacity specifications.

Getting back to casters, the 2" x 6" black casters will support 2400 lbs. while the 2" x 6" red casters will support 3600 lbs. Lista has a blue double-wheel arrangement that is their extreme duty casters set. I think they are rated at 4800 lbs. but I would have to confirm that.

The angle is probably sufficient front to back on both sides. 4 X 6 X 1/4 with the six flat on the bottom so the caster plates fit, and the 4 up the sides.

The reason is that nearly all the load is on the right and left sides and goes straight down. That is where the drawers tie in and drop their load and the load dumps to the bottom. The back, top and front horizontal rails keep the sides from falling over and minimal load is in the middle of the front and back horizontal spans.

If you wanted to go all out, you could add another smaller angle (1-1/2" bed rail would suffice here) front to back bolted to the inside caster bolts, with maybe two or three more bolts to keep it from flexing independently (Counter sunk screws on the big angle from the top, spacer washers for the gap between the angles, and a nut on the bottom) and you should be golden. You could bolt all the way through the box, but I doubt that would add a whole lot to the equation since at 6" in side the sheet metal has a lot of flex.
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Absolutely correct Outlaw. The drawer load is on the cabinet corners which are structurally sound. The plates evenly distribute the load across those corners, the cabinet edges, and the bottoms. I mentioned it before but there is also an extreme duty base, also used in dual cabinet configurations. that uses 2" x 2" angle iron around the base. This in turn has front to back plates welded in to mount and support the casters.

Bull's 45" high cabinet is a 1050 series.

To figure out a cabinet height designation ....

(Housing Height in Inches / 25.4 mm/in) - 100mm = Opening Height in mm (rounded to a modulo 50). Lista height designators are the mm of drawer or door opening available, not the overall height.

We have a table on our web site that shows all of the Lista footprints and heights, and for which cabinets the combinations are supported. I do need to update this list to include the newer EW, HW, ES, and MS footprints.

EW 34-1/4W x 28-1/2"D
HW 40-1/4"W x 28-1/2"D
ES 34-1/4W x 22-1/2"D
MS 47"W x 22-1/2"D

I hope this helps.
 

CWP1616L

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull's 45" high cabinet is a 1050 series.

Okay, so that means the model number would be DW1050-07-xxxx-xxxx. DW1050 is the part number for the outer shell and 07 means it has seven drawers. The rest of the part number would depend on the height of each drawer and whatever base is on the bottom whether it be a forklift base or what have you. Well, at least we got part of the part number...
 

Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

The drawer part numers are things like 0501, 0502, 0701. The Magic **** Tracy Decoder Ring is the first two digits refer to the number of drawer, and the second two refer to the configuration version, 01, 02, 03, 04, etc. The configuration version maps to "some" drawer layout.

The bases can be specified as an adjunct code, i.e., -ftb (fork truck base), -ptb (pallet ruck base) , fb2 (2" frame base" , etc. Likewise color is an adjunct code -bb (bright blue), -bk (black), etc. Likewise with keys -ka (keyed alike), -rg ( individually keyed), etc.

Also the drawer weight capacity -F (440 lb.), -N (165 lb and only in the small cabinets)

When we spec out a cabinet we like to note the options on a separate line item rather than a mashed up two foot long coded part number.
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull,

I picked up a DW Mobile Base Kit for you today at LISTA. The kit consists of two waffle plates, to fixed and 2 swivel Colson casters, and 4 end plates to hide the "waffle". I'll pull together the hardware for you also.

The 2" x 6" casters are the heavy duty ones which are rated at 900 lbs. each for a total weight bearing capacity of 3600 lbs. The entire assembly will raise your DW1050 cabinet 8" for a total height of 53-1/4"

The plates bolt to the bottom of the cabinet and the casters then bolt to the plates. An easy few minute installation.

This should also help to shed light on how the Lista bases are implemented. Hopefully others will find this useful.

I'll PM you on this.

Joe
 

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OP
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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Looks great, Joe. PM sent.
 

CWP1616L

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Don't forget the side handle kit:

HSG-HNDL/36

Lista_Handle_zps33ed51ab.png
 
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Linda@Lista

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Joe thank you SO much for covering this thread! Congrats on your Lista, Bull! make sure to post some pictures on our Facebook page.

Linda @Lista
 
OP
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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Don't forget the side handle kit:

HSG-HNDL/36

Lista_Handle_zps33ed51ab.png

I'll ask Joe what that bad boy goes for.

Joe thank you SO much for covering this thread! Congrats on your Lista, Bull! make sure to post some pictures on our Facebook page.

Linda @Lista

Ours too! We've actually just mentioned your project on our Facebook :)

Wow, that's a lot of pressure. I don't do the level of work that our true craftsmen on here are capable of. I hope to get this thing looking decent, but I'm not sure it's going to be a model for others of what to do with an old box!

Joe, I'll send you a PM later with the info you asked for. I just got home from a 14 hour day at school! We had a parents' night tonight.
 

cbacres

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Some answers for you


A couple of other things ... To clean and lube your roller bearings, clean them out with a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and ATF and then lube them with white lithium grease or a few drops of 3-in-One oil. Do not use lube grease; it is too heavy.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Joe

Joe,
Just some lith grease or the 3 in 1 oil is all that is needed for these bearings? I've used brak clean to remove all of the old lube and "packed " with a syn grease in the past. Sound like these dont need a whole lot of lube.Thanks
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

I like the white lithium the best but 3-in-One works well also. The heavier greases tend to clog up.

Joe

Joe,
Just some lith grease or the 3 in 1 oil is all that is needed for these bearings? I've used brak clean to remove all of the old lube and "packed " with a syn grease in the past. Sound like these dont need a whole lot of lube.Thanks
 

jdsac

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

If you cab has the forklift pockets, you can bolt the casters directly to them.
If not:
What I did with a Lista was to remove the drawers, then run box tubing across the bottom inside & drill through it and the cab & mount the casters. Makes it the same as putting it on a base.
Doing it this way kept the height down. Look for some casters with brakes
My box is 48" wide, so I put casters in the middle too (overkill). These boxes
are well built (stiff) - should be fine. This is what I used:
http://www.castersandmore.com/detai...yolefin-swivel-with-brake-caster-118-263.aspx
If the box was going to be moved a lot, I'd get better ones, but these should work for the occasional move (900 lbs ea.)
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

List price is $57.69 we sell this normally for $48.96. When you call us mention that you are from Garage Journal and we'll give you another 5% discount. Net to GJ members is $46.51 + UPS.

Available in all standard LISTA colors. ~3 week lead time. LISTA is a build-to-order company for the most part. Most of the cabinet accessories are in stock and the Xpress line ships in 3-5 days. This is a painted part, hence the lead time.

Joe


Don't forget the side handle kit:

HSG-HNDL/36

Lista_Handle_zps33ed51ab.png
 

Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

If you cab has the forklift pockets, you can bolt the casters directly to them.
If not:
What I did with a Lista was to remove the drawers, then run a piece of box tubing across the bottom inside & drill through it and the cab & mount the casters. Makes it the same as putting it on a base.
Doing it this way kept the height down. Look for some casters with brakes
My box is 48" wide, so I put casters in the middle too (overkill). These boxes
are well built (stiff) - should be fine. This is what I used:
http://www.castersandmore.com/detail...r-118-263.aspx
If the box was going to be moved a lot, I'd get better ones, but these should work for the occasional move (900 lbs ea.)

There are several bases used with "forks". You can not bolt casters to a fork truck base. It's not wide enough and it is not recommended by Lista engineering to bolt them directly to the Pallet Jack base, which is the one I think you are actually referring to. That base is 3-5/8" high so you will also add quite a bit of additional height.

I can't imagine that an inside structure as you describe is the same as base plates. Because the tubing is on the inside it's not really allowing the cabinet to sit "on" a structure and distribute its load. In this situation, the caster weight is still on the sheet metal. Other than bolting through a bunch of metal, how else are they attached? How are they able to take a load?

Unless I can see what you do, this does not sound like something I would recommend. I'd like to see some pictures of what you did. Maybe I might learn something and change my mind. Can you post some pics?

Thanks,
Joe
 

jdsac

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

By putting the casters at the corners of the box and adding the box tube inside - it can't bend
It's a "sandwich" . the caster, the cabinet, then the box tube. The cabinet is just in the middle- essentially the casters are bolted to the box tubing. There is a lot of room on the inside of the cab for the box tubing. When the bolts are tight it becomes one assembly. A 4' wide 1 1/2" box tube is very strong. If the box tube doesn't bend, then the cabinet can't bend. It's every bit as strong (or more) than the base kit shown on post #54 of this thread. Maybe Lista does things differently now, but on mine they had angle iron (1 3/4" +-) going across the box side to side
along with a 2" high stiffener. inside at the bottom. Adding the box tubing to bolt through for the casters just made it even stiffer. It's a 48" wide box 60" high with 12 drawers and they all are smooth with no binding.
I used a floor jack to raise the box one end at a time to change the casters
to ones with brakes and the box didn't deflect.
I wouldn't think of doing this on a cheap box, but Listas are built like tanks.
Maybe for a pit box that gets a lot of abuse, you might want it on an angle iron frame, but for in the shop this is fine. Just my way of doing it.
 
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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Damn. Instead of using Photobucket, which was down for me one evening, I have been hosting pics in my Asus cloud storage account. Something happened/I goofed, and now my links are broken. I will try to repair them and get the original photos back up.

Going to show some progress from today in a short while.
 
OP
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Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

So I haven't touched the box since last weekend. I absolutely have zero time during the week to work on projects. When I got to the box this morning, I was NOT pleased to see rust already coming through the silver Master Series paint I applied to the bottom. This is AFTER the scale and loose rust had been removed and the entire surface treated with Ospho rust converter. Not cool. I sprayed one coat of black paint to the surface to hopefully offer some more protection and close up any pits, but I'm not too hopeful about this.


I went over the whole box again with a random orbit sander with a 100 grit Diablo hook and loop pad. I then cleaned it all twice with mineral spirits and started spraying the Rustoleum Hammered Gray. I very much wanted to ROLL the paint from a quart can rather than spray, using a dense foam roller and thinning the paint. I wanted to thin it because I have read some reviews where people said the Hammered stuff dries super-quickly, and their rollers were pulling the paint from the surface or making a mess of it as they worked an area. Well, the local Home Cheapo had every color in quarts EXCEPT gray. Ballz. After spray-bombing the box with a few coats today, I am not happy with the results. It's zebra-stripe city. The surface area is too large and the quality of the spray pattern too low to achieve a smooth, even finish. I guess I am going to have to order a quart of gray and roll one more coat before considering this "done."

Rust coming through the Master Series
leTFuRS0jyp3mWFh9PhYjvVmwCCqY6hRwsTRww=.jpg


Shot of the front of the slides, or whatever these are called. I removed all fourteen of these before spraying today.
s=.jpg


The plastic clips that help secure the front of the slides to the box frame.
s=.jpg


Each slide weighs 3.4 lbs. That's almost 50lbs in just these pieces alone for this box.
DxBe+rZU36kgNYENyx2JKtV+2hkLUQeTNLynsk=.jpg


b1oC6Tny3JXWzpoYpVjRzl+KJaOY40eJzOgYsaBKP0w=.jpg


IOOck6LQiOcXYL5CuEM8jKYsvn7xwuXPFZcq6X2eLgY=.jpg


s=.jpg


s=.jpg


I have the slides soaking in this mix of water, Simple Green, and dish detergent overnight. By tomorrow, it should be a quick process to go over each one with some steel wool, rinse them, and hit with some WD40 to stop any new rusting.
s=.jpg
 

jdsac

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Get it as clean and rust free as you can & try Rustoleum "rusty metal primer"
(brown- in spray cans or qts & gallons). Give it time to dry between coats
& then a couple of days before you top coat over it. It sands well with 220 wet
paper so you can get a nice job over it.

Leave out the rails until you paint & then wipe them with a light oil or ATF.
WD40 won't last. It's mostly cosmetic, the only area that matters is where the bearings ride.
 
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Motorhead Extraordinaire

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull,

The side pieces of steel are referred to as "U-Channels" in the LISTA world. They are held in place with the little white U-Channel clips. A quick coate of ATF as suggested will keep them protected.

As far as the rust, whoever owned that cabinet before you did not treat it all that well. While I have never had to repair a rusted LISTA cabinet I have repaired a lot of rust in my time. You might want to try a rust encapsulating paint, such as Por-15, to seal up the rust. Alternately I have had good luck with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, the red oxide looking stuff. If you want to fill the pits, prime it good and use a little body glazing putty to smooth it all out and then prime it again real good before you paint it.

To avoid the zebra look, I use the Rustoleum paint with the fan spray. Use several light coats going in alternate directions. A lot of times I will do a final over spray coat with more of a random pattern making sure the final coat is reasonably wet and has good coverage.

Joe
 
OP
B

Bull

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull,

The side pieces of steel are referred to as "U-Channels" in the LISTA world. They are held in place with the little white U-Channel clips. A quick coate of ATF as suggested will keep them protected.

As far as the rust, whoever owned that cabinet before you did not treat it all that well. While I have never had to repair a rusted LISTA cabinet I have repaired a lot of rust in my time. You might want to try a rust encapsulating paint, such as Por-15, to seal up the rust. Alternately I have had good luck with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, the red oxide looking stuff. If you want to fill the pits, prime it good and use a little body glazing putty to smooth it all out and then prime it again real good before you paint it.

To avoid the zebra look, I use the Rustoleum paint with the fan spray. Use several light coats going in alternate directions. A lot of times I will do a final over spray coat with more of a random pattern making sure the final coat is reasonably wet and has good coverage.

Joe

Joe, I agree: someone rode this box hard and put it away wet.

I considered smoothing pits and dents and whatnot, but as it is this is more effort than I intended to spend. For two weekends now, I have fiddled with the box instead of working on the drywall in my garage. It will be worth it, though.

The Master Series paint that I used is a product similar to POR15, meant specifically for rust encapsulation. I don't know if it failed a bit because the paint was very old, or because I did only one and not two coats. In the future I might try that Rustoleum rusty metal stuff you guys are talking about.

10-4 on the ATF for the U-channels. I actually have a bucket of used stuff. I'll brush a little on each channel before reinstalling them.

I hope to have this whole project buttoned up by next weekend. I need to add the mobile base, roll a final coat of the Hammered gray, line the drawers, clean the bearings on the carriages and then oil them, and put everything back together.

I'm pretty excited because this large box is going to allow me to get some smaller boxes and other organizational pieces out of my garage and regain some space.
 

Link-Belt

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Bull, when my old man and I used to have our classic custom car shop, for rust we would first clean the rust with a wire wheel on a grinder then spray a rust inhibitor and finely prime it with this yellow primer we used to get. The yellow primer sprayed very thick had to have a special nozzle for the gun but the primer filled the rust pits and sanded smooth. The primer was on the pricey side though and for the life of me I can't remember the name of it

Sent from my SCH-R720 using Tapatalk 2
 

Mastermind

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

probly a heavy polyester filler primer, seen some orange stuff on a canadian car show yrs ago, never used it personally, our fav around here is Mar-hyde.
 

930dreamer

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Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull, here's some casters if you need them, PM sent.:thumbup:

Applications: Payson 200-4 series.
For equipment in the range of 500 to 5000 Ibs. A large selection of
wheels makes it adaptable to a variety of industrial and institutional equipment.
Widely used on warehouse trucks, refuse containers, linen carts, etc.
 

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Motorhead Extraordinaire

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2009
Messages
372
Location
Chelmsford, MA
Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Bull,

Here is some more information on mounting the Lista waffle plates and the casters.

The reference is my two Lista cabinets that I turned into a mobile. Had this been configured at the factory the base would have been a pan arrangement with angle iron steel wrapped around it all. In my situation I took a HS750 and a ST750 cabinet and bolted them together. They are 40-1/4"x x 22-1/2"d for the HS750 and the ST750 is 28-1/4"w x 22-1/2"d.

The pic waffle1.jpg show the waffle plate mounted front-to-back on the ST cabinet. The ST side show the end caps on the waffle plates while I did not bother to install them on the HS plates. The pic waffle2.jpg shows the waffle plates mounted right-to-left on the HS cabinet. The other thing you will notice it's filthy underneath my cabinets. Time for a cleanup. Haha!!

If anyone wants to play with a LISTA cabinet SketchUp model you can download the HS750 model show in the HS750.jpg picture from our web site.

SketchUp is free for the standard configuration. There is no need to download the Pro version to use this model. Hint: Try using the Interact with Dynamic Components feature on the cabinet drawers to see them open for a look inside. Use Rotate to look around the cabinet in 3D.

==> Bull : What is the drawer configuration in your DW1050? How about colors? Would you like us to do a SketchUp model for your cabinet?
 

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OP
B

Bull

Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
16,189
Location
MA
Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Joe, this project would be a lot harder without you. Thanks for giving me the pics and that diagram.


Here are the parts I got from Joe. The waffle plates and casters are just of beautiful quality.
100_7930.jpg



I wanted to have those pieces mounted by early evening, but family demands made that impossible. I was just able to get the cabinet into the garage a few minutes ago, using my handy-dandy Escalera forklift cart. The box looks even bigger inside than it did outside.
WP_000140.jpg


WP_000141.jpg



I hope to get back out there later tonight to get at least one plate and caster setup mounted. I want to flip this over and prep/paint the top tomorrow, and also clean up/paint the rusty areas inside on the bottom. By the end of the weekend I'd like to have the drawer faces waxed, the carriage bearings cleaned and lubed, and those pieces all actually positioned inside the cabinet.
 
Last edited:
OP
B

Bull

Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
16,189
Location
MA
Re: Picking Up a Lista Tomorrow

Just got back in from the garage. I installed the waffle plates and casters and then flipped the box right-side up. Tomorrow I hope to have some time to finish painting it, but we'll see.

WP_000143.jpg


WP_000144.jpg



You can see the top in this pic of the cabinet on its side mid-flip. The Rustoleum hammered looks a heck of a lot better than the abused and neglected original paint. Hopefully, one more coat rolled on will make it look even better.
WP_000145.jpg
 
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