Busted water line... new insulation

[Rusty Pilot]

Well, this cold broke a line in my barn here in NE Indiana. Luckily, I was going to remove the sink and countertop anyways. However, it did get to the insulation. I'm not impressed on how the PO did it and thinking about adding rigid foam board in addition to replacing the batts. I'm not sure what's the right way of doing it. Is it better to have the board on the interior side of the batt, in between the studs, or on the exterior side?

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't see how ridged foam will help. you need to insulate the pipes to the outside . is that a partition wall they come through?

 

[Rusty Pilot]

The sink wall is the exterior wall. Pink insulation is the wall against the bathroom. I will be removing the sink and the pex line going to it. I'm looking to redo the insulation.

 

[Bert_]

Kind of looks like tin on the exterior, which isn't particularly good at stopping air movement. You need to stop the air. Foam board would accomplish that.

 

[Firebrick43]

The ridgid foam should always be to the outside of the heated wall. The further out you get the less heat is in that area. Ideally you want the point that condensation takes place will occur inside the foaM itself. Since there is little to no air movement in solid foam board that means it can’t condensate.

If you place foam board to the inside and batts to the outside, the condensation will happen inside the batts and the foam board will block heat from drying to the inside leading to a higher chance of mold/mildew

 

[PCustoms]

That setup screams tear it out, fix the insulation and outlets and add proper cabinets

 

[Rusty Pilot]

Kind of looks like tin on the exterior, which isn't particularly good at stopping air movement. You need to stop the air. Foam board would accomplish that.

It's the basic sheet metal. Not really sure how to tell the difference. Any particular thickness of foam is minimum recommendation?

 

[Rusty Pilot]

That's the plan, PCustoms

 

[PCustoms]

That's the plan, PCustoms

I can't tell from your pics where the pipe starts or how much depth you have but you want outside wall, insulation (ise just use foam here) and then pipe. You should probably try to get the pipe inside the new cabinets of possible.

Additional insulation on the "warm side" of the pipes won't help

 

[Bert_]

It's the basic sheet metal. Not really sure how to tell the difference. Any particular thickness of foam is minimum recommendation?

No difference. Regular corrugated steel siding, tin, ect.

If you don't have any sort of air barrier, the wind probably blows right through.

 

[Rusty Pilot]

I can't tell from your pics where the pipe starts or how much depth you have but you want outside wall, insulation (ise just use foam here) and then pipe. You should probably try to get the pipe inside the new cabinets of possible.

Additional insulation on the "warm side" of the pipes won't help

I will be removing the pipes. It will just be a workbench and the wall.

No difference. Regular corrugated steel siding, tin, ect.

If you don't have any sort of air barrier, the wind probably blows right through.

It's actually not bad but I'm all for making it better. I'll get better pics once I get the counter top and sink out this weekend

 

[PCustoms]

I will be removing the pipes. It will just be a workbench and the wall.

Should have mentioned that....

 

[Rusty Pilot]

Welp... there is no vapor barrier in the walls. Metal exterior, air gap, then frame with some insulation in between the posts. I know there is a vapor barrier at least in the ceiling because I can see in the attic. As of right now, I wont be fixing it right this second as it is 10 deg outside. I will be tackling this problem this spring. Any recommendations? Am I spinning my wheels with rigid foam boards? Do I need to go for something like visqueen? Again, being in NE Indiana, what is the right layering? Exterior metal, air gap, vapor barrier (of some type/foam board), batts, interior wall?

 

[larry4406]

I've zero experience with tin buildings.

With wood sheathed structures in my area, we fill the cavity with batt insulation, kraft paper to the heated interior, then it gets covered with either drywall or Thermoply at the interior All caulk sealed, all penetrations sealed. We don't leave kraft paper exposed.

On walls, insulation should be sealed from convective currents on all 6 sides. Air movement is a killer. Thus the term air barrier.

 

[PCustoms]

Welp... there is no vapor barrier in the walls. Metal exterior, air gap, then frame with some insulation in between the posts. I know there is a vapor barrier at least in the ceiling because I can see in the attic. As of right now, I wont be fixing it right this second as it is 10 deg outside. I will be tackling this problem this spring. Any recommendations? Am I spinning my wheels with rigid foam boards? Do I need to go for something like visqueen? Again, being in NE Indiana, what is the right layering? Exterior metal, air gap, vapor barrier (of some type/foam board), batts, interior wall?

You're just fixing this small spot, and NOT putting waterlines back?

Are the rest of the walls insulated?

 

[Rusty Pilot]

You're just fixing this small spot, and NOT putting waterlines back?

Are the rest of the walls insulated?

As of now, I'm fixing just this section of the barn and not putting the water lines back. Just got done removing the sink.

From what I can tell, yes, the other walls are insulated.