I got some used butcher block table tops that I am sanding down and want to use for bench tops. What have you guys been using on the tops to protect them. I want to seal them from fluids in general (brake clean, gasoline, oil,etc.). I am concerned about a thick clear coat chipping when I put a transmission, or engine block on it. What do you think?
butcher block protection
- Thread starter dankeenan
- Start date
Bill K
Well-known member
Wax the **** out of it or use linseed oil.
Keep
Well-known member
I use mineral oil on all my butcher block cutting boards. Its easy, cheap and will repel most fluids.
Rub it in, let it soak in, keep doing that until it will not take anymore (may take a few coats) leave a heavy coat on it over night. Once it dries a couple coats of paste wax should be enough.
Linseed oil is also good, but it will yellow the wood.
Rub it in, let it soak in, keep doing that until it will not take anymore (may take a few coats) leave a heavy coat on it over night. Once it dries a couple coats of paste wax should be enough.
Linseed oil is also good, but it will yellow the wood.
porschedude996TT
Well-known member
Mineral Oil is what is supose to be used.
Heat up some parrifin wax, to liquid state, pour over the top
and iron in with an old electric flat iron.
This is what they used to put on chopping blocks.
The chopping blocks, had the wood stood on end (end grain),
you can drive the wax in a couple of inches.
If you drill a small hole in the side of the block about 1-3/4 down from the
top, the wax will run right on to the floor. (no kidding)
I seen a guy, win a case of beer on this bet.
Your tops are face grain, so the wax will not go nearly as deep.
and iron in with an old electric flat iron.
This is what they used to put on chopping blocks.
The chopping blocks, had the wood stood on end (end grain),
you can drive the wax in a couple of inches.
If you drill a small hole in the side of the block about 1-3/4 down from the
top, the wax will run right on to the floor. (no kidding)
I seen a guy, win a case of beer on this bet.
Your tops are face grain, so the wax will not go nearly as deep.
Flathead Youngin'
Well-known member
i worked at a small hardware store that used to put polyurethane on the floors every couple of years, because it would dull, flake, etc...
then, one year, they spent extra and put down valspar marine finish.....it was on the floors unitl they tore the building down.....it went on just like poly but the finish set up very hard.......it was hard to scratch it......i'm sure dragging a trans around on it would scratch it but this stuff would probably stand up to the oils and grease that you are talking about.....
there's some better stuff that gets used on work benches at say, high school woods shops but when i contatced the company they couldn't sell it directly because it must be cured by special lighting...uv or something.....their recommendation was to reseal with typical poly but i know i'll use the valspar.....
i can look up the name of the stuff but like i said, they wouldn't sell it to me.....
then, one year, they spent extra and put down valspar marine finish.....it was on the floors unitl they tore the building down.....it went on just like poly but the finish set up very hard.......it was hard to scratch it......i'm sure dragging a trans around on it would scratch it but this stuff would probably stand up to the oils and grease that you are talking about.....
there's some better stuff that gets used on work benches at say, high school woods shops but when i contatced the company they couldn't sell it directly because it must be cured by special lighting...uv or something.....their recommendation was to reseal with typical poly but i know i'll use the valspar.....
i can look up the name of the stuff but like i said, they wouldn't sell it to me.....
Flathead Youngin'
Well-known member
"After surfacing and sanding, an exclusive special acrylic top coating is applied. the DuraKryl 102 finish is used to virtually eliminate problems caused by solvents- such as alcohol, thinners and bleach. As a matter of fact, these solvents can be used to clean the top and remove stains."
I didn't do any more research but surely this stuff can be bought. I seriously doubt they are the exclusive dealers for it. Also, wonder if you could just use a UV light to help it cure....
We've spilled just about everything on it....even yellow glue, after it drys, will come off with a fingernail.....
I didn't do any more research but surely this stuff can be bought. I seriously doubt they are the exclusive dealers for it. Also, wonder if you could just use a UV light to help it cure....
We've spilled just about everything on it....even yellow glue, after it drys, will come off with a fingernail.....
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
You're going to the trouble to sand it down to get it to look good but don't want to put a clear coat on top for fear of chipping, but then toss a transmission or an engine on it? It looks to me that if you don't have a piece of steel on top to protect it, then no matter what you do is prety much a lost cause. If you tear down a dirty trans or engine, anything less than a good coat or two of polyurethane or marine spar varnish, the oils and fluid will stain the **** out of it
Watch the linseed oil soaked rags. They have a tendency to spontaneous combust.
Thanks for the info. I am not against a clear coat, I jsut do not want a thick shellac that will chip. The stuff that is on the tables is about 0.125" thick and chipped. If the DuraKryl 102 goes on thin it souds like the best stuff.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
It sounds like what you have on it now is the stuff they use for bar counters. Basically poured on and flowed out. If you can find the DuraKryl, look into the marine varnish. It will go on thin, you can put a couple of coats on, and it is tough.