Need opinions on if buying a used torque wrench is bad idea. I need to replace a pinion seal on a Dana 80 and the pinion nut needs to be snugged to 480 ft.lbs. Since I'm not equipped with tools big enough for this I got a quote from a highly recommended shop. After hearing the labor charges I'm thinking for that kind of money I can probably buy the tools I need to do it myself and have some new toys in the tool box. I'm considering 3/4" torque wrench's off ebay. I thought I saw somewhere that split-beam type are more durable and hold their calibration better over the standard type of torque wrench. Should I be looking for a split-beam or not worry about it since I should probably have the calibration checked.
Buy a used torque wrench?
- Thread starter enrare
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purplezr2
Well-known member
I just marked mine, impacted it back on. Then check rotating torque. 5 years and 30K miles no issues. This on a Dodge? You may need a socket that has shallow walls, there are two yoke designs.
beerdog
Well-known member
Ebay is always risky for anything sensitive. Buying a torque wrench used risky since you really have no idea if it can still hold a calibration. They all need periodic adjusting over time. That said, a good torque wrench will survive thousands of torque cycles. I worked in a factory where we calibrated and adjusted them ourselves. We would torque them thousands of times before they needed adjusting. Have you called arround to rental places? I know rental places arround me rent large torque wrenches.
andywander
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How do you adjust the beam-type wrenches?
metaleltr
Well-known member
Beam type are not "adjustable" as long as the pointer isn't bent it's callibration is accurate.
dr.gizmo
Well-known member
I measure the rotating torque and add 5 in lbs when re tightening the nut.
Yes, 1995 Dodge. Are you a Dodge Cummins mechanic?
mr.speaker
Well-known member
I agree with "purplezr2".
For just the pinion seal you don't need a torque wrench . What you need to do is mark a straight line across the nut,shaft,and flange with paint/or a scribe and count the turns of the nut coming off. Put the nut back on the same turns and line up the mark and all will be good. I'm pretty sure all Dana 80's have shims and not crush sleeves so there's no worry there.
For just the pinion seal you don't need a torque wrench . What you need to do is mark a straight line across the nut,shaft,and flange with paint/or a scribe and count the turns of the nut coming off. Put the nut back on the same turns and line up the mark and all will be good. I'm pretty sure all Dana 80's have shims and not crush sleeves so there's no worry there.
It might be a little hard to check the turning torque if you are just replacing the seal. Just mark it and tighten it back to the mark.Turning torque is measured with just the pinion installed.
EDIT: I was a little slow!!! Speaker beat me to it
EDIT: I was a little slow!!! Speaker beat me to it
purplezr2
Well-known member
No I wish(I'm an Engineer)
I have a Dodge Cummins, I have had to replace my yoke once and my seal once. Did it as described.
If you want the info from the OEM service manual let me know, I can dig it up and email it to you.
This is how I did mine a couple of years ago.
Do you mean removing torque? If so you should subtract not add. This thread is about buying a torque wrench not about how to do it though.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Do you mean removing torque? If so you should subtract not add. This thread is about buying a torque wrench not about how to do it though.
No, he is referring to measuring the friction of the rotating differential. If the bearings are overtightened, the friction will rise and so will the rotating torque. This is a shop manual procedure (to measure pinion rotating friction to set bearing preload). Problem is, with the ring gear and carrier in place, there is so much friction, even with the floating axles pulled out, that its questionable if you would be able to see a friction increase.
just put the nut back in the same place as before.
Charles
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beerdog
Well-known member
what is the specified range for the 480ftlb joint. It likely has a large range. Some of the nuts on my car are large...like 175-250ftlb. Not too hard to hit that.
purplezr2
Well-known member
I think its like 350 -480 if I remember the service manual right
Thanks for all the info guys, I'm finding everything mentioned not related to purchasing a used torque wrench helpful.
My 1995 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual gives a range of 440-500 ft.lbs and Quad4x4.com says Dana manual specs 480 ft.lbs for my axle.
My 1995 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual gives a range of 440-500 ft.lbs and Quad4x4.com says Dana manual specs 480 ft.lbs for my axle.
That is the right way to do it.
If I bought a used torque wrench it would have to look brand new and I would figure in a recalibration in the price.
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Dont know anything about Dana's but I can tell you the story of my second hand torque wrench. I bought a second hand 3/8 Snap On one from another memeber here earlier this year. I assume that after USPS finished throwing it around it got handed to the AusPost guys to chuck around a bit before getting to me.
We had the calibration guys in at work doing the company ones a few weeks ago. Had them check the Snap On one I had freighted half way around the world. Came back with a clean bill of health. I was talking to the calibration guy, his take was, provided you slack off the adjuster so the spring isnt compressed when you store it, there is no reason why they should slip out of working order.
We had the calibration guys in at work doing the company ones a few weeks ago. Had them check the Snap On one I had freighted half way around the world. Came back with a clean bill of health. I was talking to the calibration guy, his take was, provided you slack off the adjuster so the spring isnt compressed when you store it, there is no reason why they should slip out of working order.
FunkyfullWidth
Well-known member
Are you sure you have to retigthen the nut to 480 lbs? That seems super high for just replacing a seal. Maybe if your setting the pinion after a rebuild or replacing bearings. My guess, is that you have to tighten it to the 150ish range. While checking rotational torque... I'd reread the manual.