Buying A Good 4 Post Lift

[sixtnut]

I would like to have some feedback on 4 post lifts. I'll be buying one in the next 3 weeks or so.
Seems like each one I have read about they run down the competition. Most seem to be comparable in design except for a few items. I need a good lift that will last. I have seven 1960 Chevys. It would be used often and provide a much needed extra parking spot. I've looked at Back Yard Buddy, Bendpak, American, Danmar and Direct Lift and Complete Hydraulics.
I'm considering the Pro-Park 8 Plus from Direct Lift.
I like the fact that it can level itself and lock on an unlevel floor (my floor is made on a 2 inch pitch to help drain off water when I wash it down.) It has a double lock system and has 3 certifications. It comes with a 5 year warranty on parts and a 2 year warranty on power unit and pump.
Are there any owners that can advise me if this lift is a good one or someone that has bought another brand that has had good service with theirs?
I don't want a poorly made China lift. Most I've seen are all made in China, so what does a guy do?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Tim

1960 Impala 2dr hdtp red 348 3 deuce factory a/c
1960 Impala 2dr hdtp black 283 2bbl auto
1960 Impala 2dr hdtp turquoise 283 4bbl power/pak
1960 Impala 4dr hdtp shadow gray 348 factory a/c
1960 Belair 4 dr sdn 283 2bbl p/s, p/b, auto
1960 Belair 4 dr sdn 348 hi/po police car black/white
1960 Belair 2 dr sdn 6 cyl, p/s,p/b, auto, horizon blue/white

 

[mikeyr]

I think the pro-park is the updated version of the PerfectPark that I have. Not sure what they "updated" if anything, might just be a new name to outrun the guys that have had problems with the old name. It seems a lot of companies come and go in this field.

I have not had any issues with my PerfectPark but I have only owned it about 10 years now. When I moved early this year I actually wanted to sell my lift so I would not have to move it and buy a BendPak to replace it with, I got no bidders and moved the lift.

I would stick with big names like BendPak, Back Yard Buddy or Rotary.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Ive bought one 4 post new, it was 12k lbs Ammco with rack jacks, think I paid around 8k for it, that was 15 years ago (its still in service in friends body shop), and now Ive got a challenger 12k lbs 4 post alignment rack, that was built around 2001. Ive installed a couple bend packs (for my employer at the time), and the black 4 posts that greg smith sells, a "chinese lift", for a friend that use it about 5 times a year. Ive also installed/removed several 2 posts.

The Ammco and Challenger are both from here, Chicago, and Louisville, the challenger is very heavy and built like a tank (2-c channels and plate welded for the runners), the Greg Smith model, is bent sheet metal. The two domestics use a large ram and leaf chains, the inexpensive use cables and pulleys. Day and night difference. But at the end of the day, they both get the job done. I have found leveling is not a big deal, shims go under the towers.

It appears your watching for certifications, great idea if you're going new and china. Ive seen pictures of a 4 post failing. I'm not worried with mine, because of the way its built, and I don't have anything over 6k to put on it, except my skid loader and it still doesn't come close to its rating.

I picked up the Challenger for $1500.00 with two Challenger pneumatic rack jacks, and alignment heads. I had to paint it, otherwise fully functional. I had a budget of $5k, and was going to buy cheap new (with rack jacks), or nice used, and happened to find a local dodge dealer going out of business, so I got a smoking deal, bought it at public auction.

Its nice if you can go look at an American made lift and then go look at the import, at least you will know what you are getting or not.

Biggest thing I can bring you're attention to, you do understand you need some way to lift the car off the lift once its in the air ?

Rack jacks are very expensive, although some racks come with a bridge, and you can put a bottle jack on the bridge to get the car up off the rack to do wheel/brake/suspension work. If you look for used, look for a lift with rack jacks! They make a WORLD of difference in using the rack, or call it convenience

If you have worked under a 2 post lift, and never worked under a 4 post, its day and night. I bought my first 2 post in 1985 (Mohawk 9k, still in commercial use today, with no repairs!) and have worked in several shops under several lifts. I loath 2 post lifts! Unless you're doing work that specifically requires a 2 post (FWD Trans Works), I'm just spoiled I guess, you will find out what I mean after you get it up and start using it.

If you're working on your cars (you know how to fix stuff!), you might consider buying a USED well built American made lift, little ever goes bad on them, the power head is most likely to fail if anything and not hard to replace or repair, the cylinder might leak at some point after years of use, around here its $300-$400 for a "professional" re-seal. I can replace allot of parts for the massive amount of money I saved going used. And Ive got one of the best lifts money can buy.

Happy Hunting, Bill

 

[cruzn57]

alot of the so called "american made" lift have components made in china.
I had a USA lift, was great, sold it when I moved, (yrs ago)
bought a lift from northern automotive (china)
it is safer than the USA lift I had before, has positive locking devices, retricted hyd lines in the event of failure, well made, and stronger than the previous lift.
AND alot cheaper, org lift was 6-7 k $ , new one was 2k$.
I don't believe the pics of failure are from lift failure, my 2cents- they were improperly operated, or adjusted, or just plain stupid operators,

 

[OldCarGuy]

Over the past two decades I purchased Five Stinger four-post lifts. Although they are not certified, they were made in the USA with a sound design and have been a good value to me. They have been trouble free and have served me very well. Since I acquired my two-post lifts they are only used for storage. Though if I was in the market for a four-post lift today. I would purchase a BendPak...

http://www.stingerlifts.com/

 

[mad57]

I love my byb lift very heavy weight design gets the job done, and if you call byb you can actually pick the brain of the owner himself...i did nice guy cocky but cofident about his product good luck in your choice.

4x4 ford e 350 van.

 

[2many projects]

Check out ROTARY, the EVOLUTION models.
Pay a little more but feel safe and secure with your pride and joy ride hanging over your body.

 

[JerseyJim]

In answer to the question that you posed... I had a Pro Park 8S installed about 5 months ago. This lift is indeed made in China. But it is definitely not a poorly made lift. I have been very happy with mine.

When it comes to necessities like cars, I buy American. I have had good luck with my cars and the prices are certainly competitive with Japanese or European models. However, for many of us when it comes to discretionary purchases (unnecessary luxuries) like a four post lift, spending $4K just isn't in the cards. Before buying mine, I checked local ads for six months trying to find a suitable used lift. There were none to be had.

If you do a search on the posts, you'll find a lot of loyal owners for virtually every brand of lift including a lot of very satisfied Pro Park owners. Be sure to buy a sliding jack with the lift. It makes it so much more versatile.

Go ahead and buy a lift... It's the best present a car guy could ever buy himself!

 

[jayoldschool]

I believe the Dannmar lifts are a direct copy of the Stinger that Old Car Guy has.

 

[sixtnut]

I think the pro-park is the updated version of the PerfectPark that I have. Not sure what they "updated" if anything, might just be a new name to outrun the guys that have had problems with the old name. It seems a lot of companies come and go in this field.

I have not had any issues with my PerfectPark but I have only owned it about 10 years now. When I moved early this year I actually wanted to sell my lift so I would not have to move it and buy a BendPak to replace it with, I got no bidders and moved the lift.

I would stick with big names like BendPak, Back Yard Buddy or Rotary.

Thank you for your input.
I agree with you on those names. Rotary makes Direct Lift. They have a special on delivery for $153 and some change. I leaning towards their Pro-Park 8.

 

[sixtnut]

Ive bought one 4 post new, it was 12k lbs Ammco with rack jacks, think I paid around 8k for it, that was 15 years ago (its still in service in friends body shop), and now Ive got a challenger 12k lbs 4 post alignment rack, that was built around 2001. Ive installed a couple bend packs (for my employer at the time), and the black 4 posts that greg smith sells, a "chinese lift", for a friend that use it about 5 times a year. Ive also installed/removed several 2 posts.

The Ammco and Challenger are both from here, Chicago, and Louisville, the challenger is very heavy and built like a tank (2-c channels and plate welded for the runners), the Greg Smith model, is bent sheet metal. The two domestics use a large ram and leaf chains, the inexpensive use cables and pulleys. Day and night difference. But at the end of the day, they both get the job done. I have found leveling is not a big deal, shims go under the towers.

It appears your watching for certifications, great idea if you're going new and china. Ive seen pictures of a 4 post failing. I'm not worried with mine, because of the way its built, and I don't have anything over 6k to put on it, except my skid loader and it still doesn't come close to its rating.

I picked up the Challenger for $1500.00 with two Challenger pneumatic rack jacks, and alignment heads. I had to paint it, otherwise fully functional. I had a budget of $5k, and was going to buy cheap new (with rack jacks), or nice used, and happened to find a local dodge dealer going out of business, so I got a smoking deal, bought it at public auction.

Its nice if you can go look at an American made lift and then go look at the import, at least you will know what you are getting or not.

Biggest thing I can bring you're attention to, you do understand you need some way to lift the car off the lift once its in the air ?

Rack jacks are very expensive, although some racks come with a bridge, and you can put a bottle jack on the bridge to get the car up off the rack to do wheel/brake/suspension work. If you look for used, look for a lift with rack jacks! They make a WORLD of difference in using the rack, or call it convenience

If you have worked under a 2 post lift, and never worked under a 4 post, its day and night. I bought my first 2 post in 1985 (Mohawk 9k, still in commercial use today, with no repairs!) and have worked in several shops under several lifts. I loath 2 post lifts! Unless you're doing work that specifically requires a 2 post (FWD Trans Works), I'm just spoiled I guess, you will find out what I mean after you get it up and start using it.

If you're working on your cars (you know how to fix stuff!), you might consider buying a USED well built American made lift, little ever goes bad on them, the power head is most likely to fail if anything and not hard to replace or repair, the cylinder might leak at some point after years of use, around here its $300-$400 for a "professional" re-seal. I can replace allot of parts for the massive amount of money I saved going used. And Ive got one of the best lifts money can buy.

Happy Hunting, Bill

I need a 4 post lift due to the fact that I can't get down to set the arms on a 2 post. I have been looking for a good used American made lift in my area, but haven't found any as of yet.
I'll be buying a lift within the next month.
Thanks Bill

 

[sixtnut]

alot of the so called "american made" lift have components made in china.
I had a USA lift, was great, sold it when I moved, (yrs ago)
bought a lift from northern automotive (china)
it is safer than the USA lift I had before, has positive locking devices, retricted hyd lines in the event of failure, well made, and stronger than the previous lift.
AND alot cheaper, org lift was 6-7 k $ , new one was 2k$.
I don't believe the pics of failure are from lift failure, my 2cents- they were improperly operated, or adjusted, or just plain stupid operators,

I've heard of some lift failures, but none in my area. My brother bought an Eagle lift 10 years ago and has no problems what so ever. I believe they were made in USA then. He paid $3,000 for his. They are made in China now.
Operator error could definately be a factor.
Thanks for your input.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Hi Sixnut, funny, the 4 post from Greg Smith I installed for a friend, was for same reason, he had a 2 post and was getting vertigo, when he knelt down to set that arms, so I got to take down the 2 post I had just set up earlier that year for him and install the 4 post. He loves the 4 post, but doesn't use it for anything more than the occasional oil drain. Hes a little odd that way. Would spend the money for the lift to do his own oil drains, and thats pretty much it (you can get allot of oil drains done for the price of a lift?). If its anything more than that, he has me do it?

Not sure where you at, but around here, earlier this year (when I was looking), I was tripping over used American made 4 posts, there had to be at least one on Chicago CL all spring and summer, enough that I looked at couple and was holding out for with rack jacks, and then just ran into some good old dumb luck!

Do you know about www.auctionzip.com ? I regularly find auto business liquidation auctions on that site, its kinda like an auction company bulletin board / auction calendar co-op site. Basically hundreds if not thousands of auction companies post there auctions there, you can search by proximity to a zip code and by key words, great place to find big equipment.

Take care, Bill

 

[sixtnut]

Over the past two decades I purchased Five Stinger four-post lifts. Although they are not certified, they were made in the USA with a sound design and have been a good value to me. They have been trouble free and have served me very well. Since I acquired my two-post lifts they are only used for storage. Though if I was in the market for a four-post lift today. I would purchase a BendPak...

http://www.stingerlifts.com/

Thank you for your recommendation.

 

[sixtnut]

Hi Sixnut, funny, the 4 post from Greg Smith I installed for a friend, was for same reason, he had a 2 post and was getting vertigo, when he knelt down to set that arms, so I got to take down the 2 post I had just set up earlier that year for him and install the 4 post. He loves the 4 post, but doesn't use it for anything more than the occasional oil drain. Hes a little odd that way. Would spend the money for the lift to do his own oil drains, and thats pretty much it (you can get allot of oil drains done for the price of a lift?). If its anything more than that, he has me do it?

Not sure where you at, but around here, earlier this year (when I was looking), I was tripping over used American made 4 posts, there had to be at least one on Chicago CL all spring and summer, enough that I looked at couple and was holding out for with rack jacks, and then just ran into some good old dumb luck!

Do you know about www.auctionzip.com ? I regularly find auto business liquidation auctions on that site, its kinda like an auction company bulletin board / auction calendar co-op site. Basically hundreds if not thousands of auction companies post there auctions there, you can search by proximity to a zip code and by key words, great place to find big equipment.

Take care, Bill

Hello Bill.
I'll be doing a lot more than oil changes. I just spent $3,000 to have my garage ceiling opened, reinforced, insulated and closed in with doors at each end for storage. I'm looking forward to playing in "my new garage!"
I'll check out the link that you provided.
Thank you!
Tim

 

[sixtnut]

I love my byb lift very heavy weight design gets the job done, and if you call byb you can actually pick the brain of the owner himself...i did nice guy cocky but cofident about his product good luck in your choice.

4x4 ford e 350 van.

I waiting for a quote from byb.
Thanks.

 

[sixtnut]

I believe the Dannmar lifts are a direct copy of the Stinger that Old Car Guy has.

I've heard some good things about Danmar, but I'm still looking. I want the best value for my money.
Thank you.

 

[sixtnut]

In answer to the question that you posed... I had a Pro Park 8S installed about 5 months ago. This lift is indeed made in China. But it is definitely not a poorly made lift. I have been very happy with mine.

When it comes to necessities like cars, I buy American. I have had good luck with my cars and the prices are certainly competitive with Japanese or European models. However, for many of us when it comes to discretionary purchases (unnecessary luxuries) like a four post lift, spending $4K just isn't in the cards. Before buying mine, I checked local ads for six months trying to find a suitable used lift. There were none to be had.

If you do a search on the posts, you'll find a lot of loyal owners for virtually every brand of lift including a lot of very satisfied Pro Park owners. Be sure to buy a sliding jack with the lift. It makes it so much more versatile.

Go ahead and buy a lift... It's the best present a car guy could ever buy himself!

I like to buy American as well. American made products are getting harder to find. I do buy American made cars as well, but a lot of the parts are made else where. I just want a safe lift that will last.
Pro Park Lifts are made by Dover Corp which owns Rotary and Revolution Lift brands. Dover is the largest lift manufacturer in the world. I like the fact that it has a 5 year warranty on parts and 2 year on pump and motor. I feel if they did not make a good product they wouldn't offer such a good warranty. Some of the other NAME brands have only a 1 year warranty.
Those sliding jacks are nice, but expensive. Would bottle jacks not work on the jack tray?
Thank you for responding.
Tim

 

[sixtnut]

Check out ROTARY, the EVOLUTION models.
Pay a little more but feel safe and secure with your pride and joy ride hanging over your body.

I agree.
Seems to be a very good product!
Thank you for your reply.
Tim

 

[roaddog359]

I am leaning to the pro park 9. I have a friend that sells automotive lifts and auto supplies and I asked him about the rotory and revolution lifts. He told me on the down low that the direct lift is the same lift as the revolution but rebranded with the direct lift name. He said you are just paying more for the rotory revolution name and nothing more. So I will save the $500+ dollars and I can get a rolling jack with that money.

 

[roaddog359]

direct lift pro park 9 is what I am thinking of buying

 

[JerseyJim]

I like to buy American as well. American made products are getting harder to find. I do buy American made cars as well, but a lot of the parts are made else where. I just want a safe lift that will last.
Pro Park Lifts are made by Dover Corp which owns Rotary and Revolution Lift brands. Dover is the largest lift manufacturer in the world. I like the fact that it has a 5 year warranty on parts and 2 year on pump and motor. I feel if they did not make a good product they wouldn't offer such a good warranty. Some of the other NAME brands have only a 1 year warranty.
Those sliding jacks are nice, but expensive. Would bottle jacks not work on the jack tray?
Thank you for responding.
Tim

Bottle jacks will work just fine with the jack tray. I only bought one sliding jack because they actually get in the way at times. They're too heavy to remove. So I use just one. If I want both ends of the vehicle up off the runways, I use the sliding jack to lift one end and then I use jack stands and the jack tray to keep that end up and then move the sliding jack to the opposite end.

Very happy with this setup. Good luck and happy holidays.

 

[DelmarvaOffroad]

Shoot me an e-mail. We are a dealer for BendPak and Dannmar, both of which are great lifts!
[email protected]

 

[sixtnut]

I am leaning to the pro park 9. I have a friend that sells automotive lifts and auto supplies and I asked him about the rotory and revolution lifts. He told me on the down low that the direct lift is the same lift as the revolution but rebranded with the direct lift name. He said you are just paying more for the rotory revolution name and nothing more. So I will save the $500+ dollars and I can get a rolling jack with that money.

Your friend is correct. Rotary, Revolution, and Direct are all made by the same conpany, Dover. They have been in business for 75 years. They have a warranty of 5 years parts, 2 on pump and motor. Not bad!

 

[mechamunch]

I'm not exactly sold on the ProPark 8 Plus at all. I'd be more in favor of a BendPak HD9XW.

I too explored the ProPark 8 Plus and was somewhat perplexed by the design - seems unusual at best. Greg Smith is probably the largest endorser so most information pertaining to them can be found on his site. Direct also has a website but not as informative. My first place to stop when doing a lift comparison is www.astudyinliftdesign.com

I’d be skeptical about purchasing a lift with a (for lack of better) “pulley” system (2 to 1 lifting) as opposed to a direct pull type like the BendPak HD9XW (1 to 1 lifting). That’s if you absolutely must have the extended height but with short runways. If you investigate further you’ll notice that the BendPak HD9XW has longer runways to accommodate a lengthened hydraulic cylinder. Direct pull designs like the BendPak and even the ProPark 9 Plus allows four independent cables to be attached independently to the cylinder pull-block thus being pulled simultaneously without the need to incorporate a “pulley” block & tackle system. It’s kind of hard to explain.

And if you take an even deeper look, you’ll notice that the four lifting cables on the ProPark 8 Plus are actually attached to a single lone lifting cable that is tethered from the end of a cylinder pulley. The single cable appears to carry the entire load unless I’m missing something. In the event it ever failed, you would literally have all cables let go. Interestingly enough, you think the single cable would be 4’xs larger than the four lifting cables, but it’s not. Here’s an illustration found on Greg Smith’s website. Seems like the lone cable should be 1-1/2” diameter considering the four independents are 3/8”. Makes you wonder?

Also, “pulley” lifts must require larger diameter cylinders because it takes twice as much hydraulic pressure as a direct pull. You can't get two-to-one lifting without sacrificing something. The lift will not raise any faster because the cylinder is a larger diameter requiring more oil and the pump output must be smaller in order to achieve the higher PSI required.

Anyways, with all the info on his site, I’ve found Greg Smith is famous for embellishing facts a tad bit. So, take that for what it's worth.

My recommendation (as it has been since it came out) is check out http://www.bendpak.com/blog/top-10-guide-to-car-lifts/ to determine the right lift for you. Yeah, it's on the BP website, but it'll point you in the right direction for YOU, even if that's away from them.

 

[sixtnut]

direct lift pro park 9 is what I am thinking of buying

I thank everyone for their input and help.
I ordered the Direct Lift Pro Park 8 Plus. I've been looking at lifts for 6 weeks.
This is within my budget. Decision was made based on these facts.

1. Made by Dover Corp which has been in business for over 75 years. Makers of Rotary, Resolution and Direct.
2. Has double safety locking system.
3. Can use on an unlevel floor. ( my floor is on a 2 inch pitch for drainage ).
4. Has 3 certifications on lift.
5. Shipping special price of $154.47. ( I couldn't drive and pick up for that price. Gas, time, and sales tax. )

Thanks!
Tim

 

[mad57]

I thank everyone for their input and help.
I ordered the Direct Lift Pro Park 8 Plus. I've been looking at lifts for 6 weeks.
This is within my budget. Decision was made based on these facts.

1. Made by Dover Corp which has been in business for over 75 years. Makers of Rotary, Resolution and Direct.
2. Has double safety locking system.
3. Can use on an unlevel floor. ( my floor is on a 2 inch pitch for drainage ).
4. Has 3 certifications on lift.
5. Shipping special price of $154.47. ( I couldn't drive and pick up for that price. Gas, time, and sales tax. )

Thanks!
Tim

Enjoy it when it comes they are really handy.

 

[Cobra4B]

Random question.. can you get drip pans w/ a 4-post lift? My father is considering one for our race car, but he'd have to park my mother's dd Mercedes under it and the race car occasionally drips.

 

[jayoldschool]

Most of the 4 post lifts include drip pans, and if they don't, you can buy them separately.

 

[blownmodela]

who has the 150 price for shipping?

 

[brownbagg]

who has the 150 price for shipping

most are ship free

 

[blownmodela]

Which distributor has the aprox 150.00 shipping on a pro-park 8 plus?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I’d be skeptical about purchasing a lift with a (for lack of better) “pulley” system (2 to 1 lifting) as opposed to a direct pull type like the BendPak HD9XW (1 to 1 lifting). That’s if you absolutely must have the extended height but with short runways. If you investigate further you’ll notice that the BendPak HD9XW has longer runways to accommodate a lengthened hydraulic cylinder. Direct pull designs like the BendPak and even the ProPark 9 Plus allows four independent cables to be attached independently to the cylinder pull-block thus being pulled simultaneously without the need to incorporate a “pulley” block & tackle system. It’s kind of hard to explain.

And if you take an even deeper look, you’ll notice that the four lifting cables on the ProPark 8 Plus are actually attached to a single lone lifting cable that is tethered from the end of a cylinder pulley. The single cable appears to carry the entire load unless I’m missing something. In the event it ever failed, you would literally have all cables let go. Interestingly enough, you think the single cable would be 4’xs larger than the four lifting cables, but it’s not. Here’s an illustration found on Greg Smith’s website. Seems like the lone cable should be 1-1/2” diameter considering the four independents are 3/8”. Makes you wonder?

Also, “pulley” lifts must require larger diameter cylinders because it takes twice as much hydraulic pressure as a direct pull. You can't get two-to-one lifting without sacrificing something. The lift will not raise any faster because the cylinder is a larger diameter requiring more oil and the pump output must be smaller in order to achieve the higher PSI required.

Anyways, with all the info on his site, I’ve found Greg Smith is famous for embellishing facts a tad bit. So, take that for what it's worth.

My recommendation (as it has been since it came out) is check out http://www.bendpak.com/blog/top-10-guide-to-car-lifts/ to determine the right lift for you. Yeah, it's on the BP website, but it'll point you in the right direction for YOU, even if that's away from them.

Whoever created the illustration and text in your illustration does not understand the purpose of a block and tackle type cable set up.

Using the pulley and the two to one ratio the cylinder has to generate HALF the force of a direct push/pull cylinder, not twice as much. That is how a block and tackle works. The trade off is length and travel, the cylinder has to travel twice as far to get the same cable motion, but the cylinder works half as hard to do it. Only problem is with a pull cylinder is the surface area of the piston is less on the ram side so the cylinder has to be slightly larger diameter to have the same square inches of piston as a cylinder that is pushing, but using a pull cylinder on a two to one cable system eliminates the need for a larger cylinder, and probably a smaller cylinder is used. Everything in that illustration and text is "*** backwards" to what it really is, unless there is something else about the design that I'm not seeing.

Cable strength is determined by the number of strands and their size and the total cross sectional area. A cable that is 12/8 ths or 1/1-2" in diameter has much more wire strands and cross sectional area than four 3/8 cables. All you need to do is look at a cable chart to see the strengths of different size cables.

Looking at a wire rope strength chart, given equal material quality and type factors, and all 6x19 cable, a 3/8 cable has a ultimate breaking strength of 12,200 lbs and a safe load of 2440 lbs. Your 1/1-2" cable has a ultimate breaking strength of 184,000 lbs and a safe load of 36,800 lbs, which is somewhat overkill. A single 3/4" cable very nearly equals four 3/8 cables in strength and a 7/8" more that equals it.

 

[mechamunch]

Whoever created the illustration and text in your illustration does not understand the purpose of a block and tackle type cable set up.

Using the pulley and the two to one ratio the cylinder has to generate HALF the force of a direct push/pull cylinder, not twice as much. That is how a block and tackle works. The trade off is length and travel, the cylinder has to travel twice as far to get the same cable motion, but the cylinder works half as hard to do it. Only problem is with a pull cylinder is the surface area of the piston is less on the ram side so the cylinder has to be slightly larger diameter to have the same square inches of piston as a cylinder that is pushing, but using a pull cylinder on a two to one cable system eliminates the need for a larger cylinder, and probably a smaller cylinder is used. Everything in that illustration and text is "*** backwards" to what it really is, unless there is something else about the design that I'm not seeing.

Cable strength is determined by the number of strands and their size and the total cross sectional area. A cable that is 12/8 ths or 1/1-2" in diameter has much more wire strands and cross sectional area than four 3/8 cables. All you need to do is look at a cable chart to see the strengths of different size cables.

Looking at a wire rope strength chart, given equal material quality and type factors, and all 6x19 cable, a 3/8 cable has a ultimate breaking strength of 12,200 lbs and a safe load of 2440 lbs. Your 1/1-2" cable has a ultimate breaking strength of 184,000 lbs and a safe load of 36,800 lbs, which is somewhat overkill. A single 3/4" cable very nearly equals four 3/8 cables in strength and a 7/8" more that equals it.

The illustration that detailed the ProPark 8 Plus set-up is found on the Greg Smith site so take it up with them. Just kidding.

But oh boy, this is going to be a long one.

You are correct in your block-and-tackle summation, however, unless I’m missing something, true block-and-tackles are different. That’s why I was having a hard time explaining. Block-and-tackles do require less force because in a true block-and-tackle set-up, you pull a rope four inches and get two inches of lift. That’s why half the force. But in the ProPark 8 Plus case, the cylinder will move one inch and the lift will rise two. (One end of the single cable is anchored.) Maybe my fault for the inaccurate description. So unless others disagree, more force will be required. Again, you can’t get two-to-one lifting without sacrificing something.

Maybe a better description would be…

• Ganged Direct Pulls – BendPack’s HD9XW and the ProPark 9.
• Pulley Over’s – ProPark’s 8 Plus

Both styles are “pull types” and see pressure on the rod-end of the piston. I’ll give ProPark credit as they did increase the cylinder size on the 8 Plus to compensate the additional force required, but ½” larger hardly seems sufficient enough to supply adequate piston surface area to at least equal the lower working pressures of ganged direct-pulls.

Regarding the cables, you are correct. 1-1/2” would be way overkill, but clearly, the 3/5” cable (Huh? Let’s assume slightly smaller than 5/8” ) is a little on the shy side. According to the wire rope strength chart the four 3/8” cables would have a combined strength of 48,800-lbs. while the single 3/5” cable would have roughly 33,000-lbs.

And wouldn’t that single cylinder pulley and axle assembly see a heck of a load? You would have 8,000 pounds of force (really more if you add friction) on BOTH SIDES resulting in 16,000 pounds of force on the pulley and axle.

None of the above is to discredit the lift as it appears to be made by a reputable supplier. It just beckons the question as to which style or brand is really engineered better and which one will give you less headaches in the long run. In my opinion, from cars to tools, more force on components means greater wear and tear. Just like differentials and half-shafts on my cars being worn out of forced air.

“Captain…I need more power!”

 

[sixtnut]

Random question.. can you get drip pans w/ a 4-post lift? My father is considering one for our race car, but he'd have to park my mother's dd Mercedes under it and the race car occasionally drips.

Direct Lifts come with 3 drip pans at no charge. Some of the higher price lifts charge extra for drip pans.

 

[sixtnut]

who has the 150 price for shipping?

directlift.com has shipping for $154.47 to my area. They ship out of MI to southern OH. I will have the trucking terminal load it on my trailer. I couldn't drive to MI and back for $155.00.

 

[sixtnut]

who has the 150 price for shipping

most are ship free

Most of the lifts I have checked prices/comparisons on that offered free shipping, actually added the shipping to the price so it appeared shipping was free.
It's like going to the grocery store.















i

 

[sixtnut]

Which distributor has the approx 150.00 shipping on a pro-park 8 plus?

www.direct lift.com/Pro-Park-8-PLUS-Four-Lift-P54C9.aspx

If this doesn't work, just directlift.com, click on pro park 8 plus.

Derek Weaver in Texas told me if I ordered on line, shipping would be $154.47. This was verified when I placed my order, but only on line, not from Direct Weaver.

Charges may differ depending from shipping facility to your area. It was a good deal for me.

 

[sixtnut]

direct lift pro park 9 is what I am thinking of buying

I saw that one as well. I don't need a 9,000 lb lift. My 1960 Chevy's are less than 4,000. I think the one you mentioned is a commercial grade.

I have looked and made phone calls for over 6 weeks. I guess you could say that was "overkill!" For the money and features and the WARRANTY, I chose Direct which is made by Dover Corp. They have been in business 75 years and make the Rotary and Resolution.

Right, wrong or indifferent, this is what I bought. I'll keep everyone posted on the outcome.

With the cost of the lift and the garage remodeling I had to have done, I still came away under $5,500.00

I have 2 posts under "Garage Gallery" showing pics of the remodel. Look for sixtnut

 

[jeff5295]

I've had good luck Bendpaks. So much that I bought a second one. First one sold with my previous house, so I replaced with a taller and longer version of the same hoist at the new place since I have more room. I looked at other brands, but Bendpak is hard to beat for the price. I'm very happy with mine. I like the air release locks versus the mechanical linkage found on some brands. A friend had one with mech linkage and it seemed like it left one lock engaged quite often. Possibly just needed adjustment, but the air lock release works great.