Buying a new MIG, which one??!!

[PoorUB]

Edit: I bought the Millermatic 211.

Looking for a new MIG welder. I have an 35 year old Snap-On that is giving me problems. I think I can get it running again, but no parts are available so everything requires some back yard engineering. The company that built it for Snap-On is long gone. I have consumables for it so as long as it runs it gets used. I might get it running and try sell it.

I don't weld much thin stock, but would like a welder that will do it. Typically 1/8" to 1/4" once in a while heavier. 120/240 volt is a must. Price is not as important as getting a great machine.

Right now I am looking at the Hobart Handler 210 and the Millermatic 211. I never stick or TIG weld so no need for multifunction. I keep looking at the Harbor Freight welders, but they are not much less money than the Hobart, so I think, nope, just buy the Hobart. Then I see I can get a $300 rebate on the Miller and think well, it is only $500 more for a machine I will never replace and have for years. Then i looked at an ESAB today and thought, maybe?

I think about this so much and I simply can not decide!

All I know is I just confuse myself!

 

[jfleisher]

I’m partial to the MiG-31 myself…

Oh wait, you’re talking about welders.

 

[Wamsutta]

Right now I am looking at the Hobart Handler 210 and the Millermatic 211.

Don't get the Millermatic 211. It has no digital readout. Bump up to the 215. Having a digital readout allows you to use parameter charts which saves you a ton of time in selecting a setting. After entering the recommended parameters off the chart, you may have to make a slight adjustment to voltage or WFS but that's it. The digital readout tells you where you are and where you've been.

 

[Rusted Nut]

I have a Miller 211, I really like it. I’ve done everything from auto body sheet metal repair, to building a flatbed, and 3/8” single pass flux core. On my flatbed fab, I tacked everything together, then went back and welded everything; didn’t hit the duty cycle limit until I was 90% done; that was 1/8” wall tube with .030 wire and 75/25 gas on 120V. Runs a little hot with the auto set feature, but runs really well according to the machine table. Highly recommended.

 

[dr_clyde]

Millermatic 255

Once you go pulsed you’ll never go back.

One of the best welders I’ve used in its price class.

 

[Sweetcorn]

If it's within your budgeted amount, buy the Miller. It's incredibly unlikely you'll be disappointed with it throughout the years.


Also, in before the known Miller haters...

 

[Aaron_W]

Those were at the top of my list, but ultimately I bought a multi-process Miller Multimatic 220. The MIG side of the 220 is basically the 211 with a digital display. I've been very happy with my welder, but Miller prices have really climbed since 2020 while Hobart has stayed fairly flat. In 2019 when I was buying the Hobart 210 was about $1100, and the Miller 211 was about $1400, but frequent Miller rebates put the two even closer.

With the Miller at $1800 and Hobart $1200 I'd lean much more towards the Hobart.

I am kind of in the same place as Wamsutta, and really like having a digital display, but the Miller 215 is nearly double the price of the Hobart.

 

[Sweetcorn]

Don't get the Millermatic 211. It has no digital readout. Bump up to the 215. Having a digital readout allows you to use parameter charts which saves you a ton of time in selecting a setting. After entering the recommended parameters off the chart, you may have to make a slight adjustment to voltage or WFS but that's it. The digital readout tells you where you are and where you've been.

I much prefer a digital display as well...

 

[Rockable]

I have had 2 Hobart welders and they have done a great job for me and i use my Mig a lot. I sold the first one, a 115v model and upgraded to a 240v model and love it. You can always find consumables for it and I have never needed parts, so far. I can do sheet metal to 3/8, if I bevel the 3/8. I think the new models have a little more amperage, so that should cover your needs well.

 

[scooby074]

I love my Millers. 252,130xp and Thunderbolt.

 

[PoorUB]

Millermatic 255

That is a bit out of my price range, and way more power than I need. Plus it isn't 120 volt.

 

[Jswain]

I would go with the Miller, in 20 years if you want to upgrade it will a) still work and b) still be valuable enough to sell & take the sting out of a new welder.

 

[steel 35]

I did good on a 210 Hobart so I got the spool gun for it too.
Last place I worked only the Digital welders wen‘t bad.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Millermatic 255

Once you go pulsed you’ll never go back.

One of the best welders I’ve used in its price class

I won't disagree, but the PRICE !

Is there a 200A-250A pulsed MIG welder for under $2,000 ? Under $1,000 ?

 

[bb29510]

I love my Millers. 252,130xp and Thunderbolt.

the 220 dc thunderbolt is the ultimate crackerbox, im still looking for one

 

[NDJ]

The thing with MIG is you are adjusting for the job at hand. You either need more/less wire speed, or more/less heat. If its an analog dial with numbers...or a digital readout to make you feel better about it, Its about tweaking. The Miller 211 has the "autoset" feature which gets you pretty darn close.

 

[scooby074]

the 220 dc thunderbolt is the ultimate crackerbox, im still looking for one

In the event of nuclear war, the cockroaches will be using either the Thunderbolt or the Lincoln Tombstone to rebuild society

 

[scooby074]

The thing with MIG is you are adjusting for the job at hand. You either need more/less wire speed, or more/less heat. If its an analog dial with numbers...or a digital readout to make you feel better about it, Its about tweaking. The Miller 211 has the "autoset" feature which gets you pretty darn close.

Yep. Digital displays are not necessary IMHO. You can dial in any welder with even analog knobs then after that its by "feel".

 

[PoorUB]

Don't get the Millermatic 211. It has no digital readout.

Why do I need a digital read out? I have been welding for years with a heat selector knob and wire speed. If there is some reason I need more, someone please explain it to me! Seriously, I want to know why before I spend $2K! Maybe the read out is worth it.

 

[scooby074]

Why do I need a digital read out? I have been welding for years with a heat selector knob and wire speed. If there is some reason I need more, someone please explain it to me! Seriously, I want to know why before I spend $2K! Maybe the read out is worth it.

Readout is a nice bonus but not reqd IMHO

 

[Jswain]

Readout is a nice bonus but not reqd IMHO

X2. Takes about 20minutes to calculate the wire speed for every number on the wire speed dial to make a chart if you want to use say the Miller welding app. Since the 211 doesn't display voltage you can measure that with a meter & a friend or cell phone recording and in less then an hour have a voltage & wfs chart for your machine.

 

[Dig Doug]

I have 2 hobarts

older 135 handler 110. Have had it 25 years

iron man 240 only had it a couple years

both work Excellent

 

[PoorUB]

X2. Takes about 20minutes to calculate the wire speed for every number on the wire speed dial to make a chart if you want to use say the Miller welding app. Since the 211 doesn't display voltage you can measure that with a meter & a friend or cell phone recording and in less then an hour have a voltage & wfs chart for your machine.

Heck, the machine I have now I have the settings in my head, at least pretty close! I am not even certain I would need to make a chart!

I loaded up the Miller ap, looks interesting.

 

[Jswain]

Heck, the machine I have now I have the settings in my head, at least pretty close! I am not even certain I would need to make a chart!

I loaded up the Miller ap, looks interesting.

Depends on the welder, as some have really good door charts, so like you said making your own chart on WFS & voltage would likely be unnecessary for most.

Annnnd if you find that unnecessary, displaying it on a gauge is probably not needed either.

The additional settings you obtain are nice, burnback, run in etc...but with a MIG most people are ok with just 2 dials.

 

[finn]

I just go by the bacon sizzling sound on the 1987 ish HTP mig. If it’s not sizzling, I need to adjust the power or wire speed.

 

[dnschmidt]

Primeweld. Best customer service on the planet and they have a range of MIG's from the 180, which is what I bought, and a machine with much higher output. THIS IS THE BANG FOR BUCK CHOICE. The 180 can be used with 120V or 240V.

HTP. The Propulse 220 MTS is about $2,000 at it's sale price right now. Made in Italy and absolutely top of the line. Easily as good as Miller or Lincoln. IF YOU'VE GOT THE MONEY THIS IS THE ONE. Does conventional MIG, Pulsed Spray Arc MIG, is a synergic machine that does most of the work for you. Works great with Dual Shield which for thick welds is the absolute nuts. Bought mine five years ago for more money than they currently cost and I love it. It does require 240V however which any of the more powerful machines do.

 

[Wamsutta]

Why do I need a digital read out? I have been welding for years with a heat selector knob and wire speed. If there is some reason I need more, someone please explain it to me! Seriously, I want to know why before I spend $2K! Maybe the read out is worth it.

Because if you start switching around different material thicknesses, wire size, or shielding gas, the parameter chart makes it WAY easier.

And that MM215 has an automatic setting to where all you have to do is enter in your material thickness, wire size, and gas type; the machine sets the rest for you.

 

[PoorUB]

Because if you start switching around different material thicknesses, wire size, or shielding gas, the parameter chart makes it WAY easier.

And that MM215 has an automatic setting to where all you have to do is enter in your material thickness, wire size, and gas type; the machine sets the rest for you.

I have run the same wire size for 35 years, I don't see changing wire size often, if at all. Run the same gas all the time too. The only variable is material thickness.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have run the same wire size for 35 years, I don't see changing wire size often, if at all. Run the same gas all the time too. The only variable is material thickness.

There's also the Lincoln Power MIG 211i. It has digital readout and a nicer gun than the Miller.

 

[drmarkr]

Primeweld. Best customer service on the planet and they have a range of MIG's from the 180, which is what I bought, and a machine with much higher output. THIS IS THE BANG FOR BUCK CHOICE. The 180 can be used with 120V or 240V.

HTP. The Propulse 220 MTS is about $2,000 at it's sale price right now. Made in Italy and absolutely top of the line. Easily as good as Miller or Lincoln. IF YOU'VE GOT THE MONEY THIS IS THE ONE. Does conventional MIG, Pulsed Spray Arc MIG, is a synergic machine that does most of the work for you. Works great with Dual Shield which for thick welds is the absolute nuts. Bought mine five years ago for more money than they currently cost and I love it. It does require 240V however which any of the more powerful machines do.

26 posts to get to the right answer???

Primeweld. Without a doubt. The 180 should do what you want. Now go do some homework and it will confirm what we're telling you !!

 

[Retroman]

Is the HTP Pro pulse 220 MTS that much better than my 211? Maybe I should sell the miller and grab the HTP. Could probably get $1500 or so for the like new Miller.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is the HTP Pro pulse 220 MTS that much better than my 211? Maybe I should sell the miller and grab the HTP. Could probably get $1500 or so for the like new Miller.

Find some videos on the Pro Pulse. It is very impressive.

Segue - As a retired engineer I have to wonder how they are creating those high current pulses. Also, why are there no cheap Chinese knock offs.

 

[dr_clyde]

I won't disagree, but the PRICE !

Is there a 200A-250A pulsed MIG welder for under $2,000 ? Under $1,000 ?

OP stated “Price is not as important as getting a great machine.”

He did not give a budget so I recommended a welder that I own, use and can recommend.

Not everyone is as cheap as you, but I should have known that you’d chirp in about how the price wasn’t to your liking.

Not everything is about how much “bang for the buck” you can get. Sometimes people like to spend a few bucks and get nice things.

I’ll bow out now, clearly my input isn’t wanted here.

 

[vpd66]

Is the HTP Pro pulse 220 MTS that much better than my 211? Maybe I should sell the miller and grab the HTP. Could probably get $1500 or so for the like new Miller.

I owned Millermatic 250 for 25 years. It was a good welder but I wanted to upgrade to a welder with exact voltage and wirespeed readings not just 0-100 turn knobs. I chose the HTP ProPluse 220 and couldn't be happier. The preset settings work ok but after a while I just run it on manual mig and dial in my settings. It has a much smoother pulse program then any Miller pulse welder I've welded with.

 

[vpd66]

Find some videos on the Pro Pulse. It is very impressive.

Segue - As a retired engineer I have to wonder how they are creating those high current pulses. Also, why are there no cheap Chinese knock offs.

The Chinese are just starting to figure out pulse mig. Look at Arccaptian mig welders. They just came out with an affordable pulse mig welder.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The Chinese are just starting to figure out pulse mig. Look at Arccaptian mig welders. They just came out with an affordable pulse mig welder.

I only see pulsed TIG on their web site.

 

[theoldwizard1]

OP stated “Price is not as important as getting a great machine.”

He did not give a budget so I recommended a welder that I own, use and can recommend.

Not everyone is as cheap as you, but I should have known that you’d chirp in about how the price wasn’t to your liking.

Not everything is about how much “bang for the buck” you can get. Sometimes people like to spend a few bucks and get nice things.

If I was a professional, I would have an HTP Revolution. Just looking out for the DIYer !

 

[PoorUB]

OP stated “Price is not as important as getting a great machine.”

There is always a budget! I would assume if I mentioned welders in the $1,000 - $2,000 range it would be understood that a $4,000 welder was probably out of the question.

My limit is in the $2,000 range.

 

[dnschmidt]

Is the HTP Pro pulse 220 MTS that much better than my 211? Maybe I should sell the miller and grab the HTP. Could probably get $1500 or so for the like new Miller.

The advantage of the HTP is the pulse function along with the synergic settings which basically sets up the machine based on process, welding gas used, material type and thickness. Pulse enables you to get into steel spray arc mode in all positions, not just flat. Spray arc is an extremely hot process and produces very little spatter, but most significantly enables you to weld aluminum without the need for a spool gun. With the aluminum setup you can use the rollers in the machine to directly feed aluminum wire to the MIG gun. Now with aluminum you're limited to the 8 foot gun but the machine is quite portable so that typically isn't a problem. There are a number of YouTube videos by Peter Zila showing the Propulse using the pulse feature. These would be worth looking at to see the functionality of pulse welding. You can call HTP and talk to Peter directly if you have additional questions. He is a walking encyclopedia of welding knowledge. Maybe not at the Jody Collier (Welding God) level but damn close.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I picked up the Lincoln power mig 210 mp a few years ago. Wanted 120 or 220 option, mig, tig and spool gun, for the home shop is all I'll ever need. If go either Lincoln or Miller, it's all you are on jobsites and both are jobsite durable. Right now I see a 400$ rebate from Lincoln if that helps.