Buying a used skid steer

[AEAdam]

would you care to share how much you paid? I may be in the market soon.

I was ready to buy when Covid hit. Almost overnight, prices shot up $5-10k. Bobcat couldn’t get the electronic modules etc from Asia. Pros couldn’t upgrade to new, so they held onto their used machines. Used stock decreased so prices shot up. This machine a few years ago would sell at auction for $25k. Retail at $30.

This came from a rental place. That can be a good deal depending on where you are. All I can say is, at least here in PA, prices have come down closer to pre Covid prices. But I see a huge range in asking prices.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Rust rust rust

Flip cab, look in belly. You can have a machine that looks alright on the outside and be totally destroyed under engine, engine, hydro lines and all above!

This a 2017 case with 1200 hours. Destroyed destroyed destroyed by salt/snow removal in chicago
Machines so bad I wouldn’t have this in my fleet

Rust damage discount should
Be half price a nice used machine because that’s what it WILL cost you in repairs.

Where's the rust?

 

[mike93lx]

Congrats! Now go tear up your yard like everyone else that gets a new piece of equipment

 

[Pen & Wrench]

It looks like you made a great choice from what the pictures look like. Enjoy that machine!

 

[CraigStu]

I'd play w/ both control setups for a week or 2 each, talk to a few people about preferences, and make a decision. I have had my mini-ex for a little < a year and am finally getting to where the controls are close to being natural. I tried the other option for a week or so and flipped back. I still sometimes make small movements just to be sure I am moving the correct control for what I want, especially near the buildings. But usually, after the first 5-10min of each session, I find I am back in the groove and things happen somewhat automatically.

 

[NUTTSGT]

There is a skeletal bucket made not far from me by Mennonites in Lititz PA. Instead of laser cut steel, they make them out of 1-3/16" rod. Well, here it is:

Here's their website if anyone is interested.

My gawd, that looks like some type of medieval torture device.

 

[AEAdam]

Ok. Looking into installing a back up camera. (I love back up cameras - installed one on my F150).

There is the $750 Bobcat version, and the $169 Amazon special. Both systems require attaching an auxiliary monitor in the overhead above the door. I'm thinking no trigger, always on type system. Camera mounts on top of the engine door.

Any advice? Anyone done it?

 

[PCustoms]

My gawd, that looks like some type of medieval torture device.

I know, I'm excited too

 

[ATC]

Ok. Looking into installing a back up camera. (I love back up cameras - installed one on my F150).

There is the $750 Bobcat version, and the $169 Amazon special. Both systems require attaching an auxiliary monitor in the overhead above the door. I'm thinking no trigger, always on type system. Camera mounts on top of the engine door.

Any advice? Anyone done it?

I don't know, but I've wanted to do that to mine since I got it. Rear visibility on mine is not very good, and combine that with the fact that I am NOT flexible at all. 20 years looking backwards on a forklift did a number on my spine.

The only option for my old machine is an Amazon special, which I will probably go with and try out. Someday.

 

[ATC]

My gawd, that looks like some type of medieval torture device.

That's the first one I've seen that uses round rod. It looks like a work of art, and very expensive!

Mine was built the traditional way with flat steel....but it was too big and heavy (1000lbs) for what I was doing with it, so I sold it.




And replaced it with a stump grapple. Much lighter and more versatile. THIS is the tool that will nearly turn a skid steer into a excavator with a thumb...

 

[ATC]

@AEAdam

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[JSGAuto]

That's the first one I've seen that uses round rod. It looks like a work of art, and very expensive!

Mine was built the traditional way with flat steel....but it was too big and heavy (1000lbs) for what I was doing with it, so I sold it.

And replaced it with a stump grapple. Much lighter and more versatile. THIS is the tool that will nearly turn a skid steer into a excavator with a thumb...

I am in the market for a grapple for firewood and was worried with the weight as well. Where did you get that stump grapple?

 

[Firebrick43]

I am in the market for a grapple for firewood and was worried with the weight as well. Where did you get that stump grapple?

They also make add on grapples in multiple styles for pallet forks. They would work better for handling clean logs for sawing or firewood at the expense of the ability to grub things out of the ground

 

[ATC]

I am in the market for a grapple for firewood and was worried with the weight as well. Where did you get that stump grapple?

I picked mine up from a guys shop in NC. He's a dealer for Jobsite brand attachments. The Denton area of NC has about 5-6 factories that pump out skid steer and tractor attachments (CID, Carolina skidsteer, Mid-state attachments, Unlimited fab, etc..)

For firewood, Firebrick43 is on the right track. I debated going with a fork grapple, as my uses are mainly for logs and brush. But the stump grapple is more versatile in that it can do those things, but it can also pick up rocks, small stumps (too small for forks), tires, truck parts, and other things that I also move around.

A large benefit of a fork grapple, is that you can pick up 3-4-5-6 logs at once depending on how you process firewood. My stump grapple can probably get 1-2 firewood sized logs. And if you use IBC totes for firewood, you can use the forks for moving them around as well.

 

[finn]

I was ready to buy when Covid hit. Almost overnight, prices shot up $5-10k. Bobcat couldn’t get the electronic modules etc from Asia. Pros couldn’t upgrade to new, so they held onto their used machines. Used stock decreased so prices shot up. This machine a few years ago would sell at auction for $25k. Retail at $30.

This came from a rental place. That can be a good deal depending on where you are. All I can say is, at least here in PA, prices have come down closer to pre Covid prices. But I see a huge range in asking prices.

Same here. I bought my old Deere used for $10k. Sold it for the same $10 k ten years later, and thought I did pretty good… 10 years service, a couple of hoses, and a battery, so I essentially broke even, and put hundreds of hours on it.

Six months later, Covid hit and asking prices of that exact machine doubled. I think sellers were getting those prices, too.

Fortunately, the CTL I bought new just before Covid has held its value quite well.. the guys that bought new during Covid haven’t fared as well.

 

[PowerWagonBuilder]

I still have a 2004 Bobcat S300 with a Kubota engine, I bought new. I was a huge Bobcat fan when I was in business. Now, that Bobcat got bought out by Doosan, I won't even look at them. The engines are basically throw away/exchange. There is a guy on youtube "HowIDidIt" that was a Bobcat dealer tech. A ton of great info on his channel.

Can you give a little more info on why the Doosan engines are throw away / exchange engines? Bobcat seems to support the parts and components, and if you don't care for the Bobcat parts price, a lot of the same engines are being used in the Develon machines (which used to be Doosan equipment but that line was bought by Hyundai and rebranded). My machine has a Bosch pump, no DEF, just an SCR and a small DPF. It has been extremely efficient on fuel but still very powerful. Exhaust is insanely hot is my only complaint.

Just wondering if you've had or known of issues where the engines aren't being supported for repairs. I do know that fuel contamination is the biggest concern with the Bosch injection system and if you get a large dose of water or trash past the filtration system somehow, it can cost around $5k just in parts to replace it all. The D24s have the same internals and various hp ratings depending on the fuel tune.

 

[finn]

Can you give a little more info on why the Doosan engines are throw away / exchange engines? Bobcat seems to support the parts and components, and if you don't care for the Bobcat parts price, a lot of the same engines are being used in the Develon machines (which used to be Doosan equipment but that line was bought by Hyundai and rebranded). My machine has a Bosch pump, no DEF, just an SCR and a small DPF. It has been extremely efficient on fuel but still very powerful. Exhaust is insanely hot is my only complaint.

Just wondering if you've had or known of issues where the engines aren't being supported for repairs. I do know that fuel contamination is the biggest concern with the Bosch injection system and if you get a large dose of water or trash past the filtration system somehow, it can cost around $5k just in parts to replace it all. The D24s have the same internals and various hp ratings depending on the fuel tune.

FYI, SCR (Strategic Catalytic Reduction) uses DEF as a reluctant

Your machine is under 75 hp so it gets a pass on NOx emission requirements, so it doesn’t require SCR ( which uses DEF). It likely has an oxy-cat and DPF for particulate compliance though.

Two different systems to control different pollutants.

 

[Uncle murph]

I was ready to buy when Covid hit. Almost overnight, prices shot up $5-10k. Bobcat couldn’t get the electronic modules etc from Asia. Pros couldn’t upgrade to new, so they held onto their used machines. Used stock decreased so prices shot up. This machine a few years ago would sell at auction for $25k. Retail at $30.

This came from a rental place. That can be a good deal depending on where you are. All I can say is, at least here in PA, prices have come down closer to pre Covid prices. But I see a huge range in asking prices.

Nice machine,no doubt many hours of good use ahead

 

[Stick-man]

Can you give a little more info on why the Doosan engines are throw away / exchange engines? Bobcat seems to support the parts and components, and if you don't care for the Bobcat parts price, a lot of the same engines are being used in the Develon machines (which used to be Doosan equipment but that line was bought by Hyundai and rebranded). My machine has a Bosch pump, no DEF, just an SCR and a small DPF. It has been extremely efficient on fuel but still very powerful. Exhaust is insanely hot is my only complaint.

Just wondering if you've had or known of issues where the engines aren't being supported for repairs. I do know that fuel contamination is the biggest concern with the Bosch injection system and if you get a large dose of water or trash past the filtration system somehow, it can cost around $5k just in parts to replace it all. The D24s have the same internals and various hp ratings depending on the fuel tune

Can you give a little more info on why the Doosan engines are throw away / exchange engines? Bobcat seems to support the parts and components, and if you don't care for the Bobcat parts price, a lot of the same engines are being used in the Develon machines (which used to be Doosan equipment but that line was bought by Hyundai and rebranded). My machine has a Bosch pump, no DEF, just an SCR and a small DPF. It has been extremely efficient on fuel but still very powerful. Exhaust is insanely hot is my only complaint.

Just wondering if you've had or known of issues where the engines aren't being supported for repairs. I do know that fuel contamination is the biggest concern with the Bosch injection system and if you get a large dose of water or trash past the filtration system somehow, it can cost around $5k just in parts to replace it all. The D24s have the same internals and various hp ratings depending on the fuel tune.

The youtube channel HowIDidIt mentioned this about the Doosan engines in a video. He ordered a new engine and mentioned something about why he would not rebuild one. He was a mechanic for a Bobcat dealer, and had issues because of his awesome youtube channel and went out on his own. Watch his channel, he knows his shtuff.
I personally would not look at a Doosan engine. I have heard issues with their air compressors which they purchased from Ingersoll Rand, which also use to own Bobcat. I have had great luck with the Kubota engines, so now I wouldn't purchase a Bobcat brand.

 

[AEAdam]

Hit my first snag:
Took my bucket off, with some difficulty releasing the bobtach arms (manual, not power bobtach). And now I can't get it back on. I figured since one arm was bent, I might have wear that's preventing the pins from fully engaging. I called Bobcat and they recommended replacing them.

With new hardware, nothing has changed. BTW, the front plate appears straight, unworn, the new pins are identical to the old ones. I can engage the bobtach easily on my new forks. Wondering of there's something about this bucket? Or maybe something I need to adjust?

Anybody been through this?


The bucket (right) in this picture does not appear to be far enough back (left) I see a lot of daylight between the front of the bobtach plate and the back of the bucket.


The RHS pin looked better, but this side wouldn't deploy either. When I reached my hand under the bucket, I could feel the tip of the pin where it was supposed to be.

My guess is, with the pins deployed this gap would be gone. But I don't have the strength to move the levers. I used a cheater bar to detach.


The bucket looks fine. Not twisted or dented or particularly worn.

This is a picture of the mechanism:

The vertical spring is attached to a pin with a machined tapered surface to help bring the implement to this attach plate. When you rotate the handles up, the pins pull out of the attachment. (The hardware in the center of the image is irrelevant.)

 

[PCustoms]

Unless I'm missing something the left hand side (from operator perspective) side of the machine looks off a mile



Can you show us the actual machine?

 

[Firebrick43]

Tilt the bucket down at a 50 degree angle and put down pressure on the cutting edge, then engage the levers/locks

 

[finn]

There’s a little technique and finesse required, especially on well used equipment. My forks are ever so slightly tweaked where the lower pin (dog?) slips in. Just enough that I sometimes have to raise the mount from the top and give it a hydraulic “shake”.

Eventually everything slips in, though, and the bucket is fine.

The pins were somewhat worn on my old Deere, which sometimes took finess to overcome. The tractor and CTL, being almost new, are easier and consistent.

 

[AEAdam]

Unless I'm missing something the left hand side (from operator perspective) side of the machine looks off a mile



Can you show us the actual machine?

Does this help?

Fork attachment was no problem.

 

[AEAdam]

Tilt the bucket down at a 50 degree angle and put down pressure on the cutting edge, then engage the levers/locks

I was wondering if that might be the solution. Sounds good, but with no helper and an enclosed cab, that might not be so easy. Really can't open the door with the arms raised much at all. But I can take your advice and explore what might be possible in terms of using the arms to force the bucket home. Thanks.

As an engineer, I just want this to work the way I believe it was designed to work. I was wondering if anyone ground bevels on the insides of bucket bails to help the pins find their way.

I went looking for a nasty burr there that the pins were catching on. No luck. The pins are where they are supposed to be and the buckets' bails look right, not bent and free of obvious defects. I feel like I may need a cheater bar on the levers (handles) to pull the bucket in.

 

[PCustoms]

I went looking for a nasty burr there that the pins were catching on. No luck. The pins are where they are supposed to be and the buckets' bails look right, not bent and free of obvious defects. I feel like I may need a cheater bar on the levers (handles) to pull the bucket in.

If the forks work fine I'd carefully look at the left side of the bucket. Something is either bent or tight....

I have a similar issue on my tractor. Still haven't figured out why one pin won't fully engage like it used to

 

[PowerWagonBuilder]

Some of my attachments go on easier than others. I'd be looking at the bucket ear angles and spacing of the angle bars. The upper trim lip may not be allowing the bucket to settle all the way onto the lower heels due to a height issue. I bought a cheap off brand bucket from an auction years back and went to fit it on my machine and it was not going on properly at all. I ended up cutting the upper bar off entirely and moving it up about 5/8". Chineesium import stuff. The bucket was cheap enough and for its use as a finish grade / gravel spreading function its still not a bad purchase. Agreed that if the Bobcat brand forks are going onto your Bobcat machine, its probably the bucket dimensions / fabrication / being bent or abused.

Also, it looks like maybe the bucket flanges are bottoming out? I have had this one some of the attachments that came with my John Deere. I had to do a little grinding to get the bucket over the flange.

 

[AEAdam]

Some of my attachments go on easier than others. I'd be looking at the bucket ear angles and spacing of the angle bars. The upper trim lip may not be allowing the bucket to settle all the way onto the lower heels due to a height issue. I bought a cheap off brand bucket from an auction years back and went to fit it on my machine and it was not going on properly at all. I ended up cutting the upper bar off entirely and moving it up about 5/8". Chineesium import stuff. The bucket was cheap enough and for its use as a finish grade / gravel spreading function its still not a bad purchase. Agreed that if the Bobcat brand forks are going onto your Bobcat machine, its probably the bucket dimensions / fabrication / being bent or abused.

Also, it looks like maybe the bucket flanges are bottoming out? I have had this one some of the attachments that came with my John Deere. I had to do a little grinding to get the bucket over the flange.

Thank you. This is EXACTLY what I was thinking, but wasn't confident, being so green with these things. This bucket simply isn't mating well to my machine. I'm sure I could force it and I'm reasonably sure that's how it was initially installed and then never removed.

That whole dovetail bracket sticks out too far for my attach plate. Its stiffeners are riding my handles. I'd like to cut those back so the handles can rotate freely. Next, I suspect the reason the bucket isn't going home is because those dovetails are too low. I might be able to to simply trim the bottom edge of the dovetail bracket. I'll bet 1/2" would make a world of difference.

I'm not 100% sure how to trim any of this. This is too big to put on my mill! I'm thinking angle grinder (maybe a cut-off wheel?) and patience.

 

[racecougar]

I'm not 100% sure how to trim any of this. This is too big to put on my mill! I'm thinking angle grinder (maybe a cut-off wheel?) and patience.

If there is really that much meat to remove, you can use a cut-off wheel and clean up with a grinding disc or flap disc, but from what I see of the interference, a little work with a flap disc is all you need.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The bucket looks fine. Not twisted or dented or particularly worn.

I have very little experience but I can tell you what I see with this picture if I was trouble shooting. I'm seeing uneven wear marks. Is that your issue, I don't know but it's something I would look into further.

 

[AEAdam]

I have very little experience but I can tell you what I see with this picture if I was trouble shooting. I'm seeing uneven wear marks. Is that your issue, I don't know but it's something I would look into further.

Agree. Right now, I suspect its the top of the attach plate or more specifically the dovetail on the bucket that is preventing the attach plate from going into its fully seated position.

Step one, I think I need to relieve these stiffeners that prevent the arms from rotating.


Both sides look like this. Thing may, on its own allows the bobtach plate to seat in further.

Step 2, I think I'd start relieving the underside of the dovetail to let the bobtach plate to move up a little.

I might find success just knocking the corner off.

 

[ATC]

I'd start by taking a sledgehammer to the lower ears circled in red. Looks like you need just a little more of a gap so the bucket will sit flush to the machines mounting plate, so you can lock the pins. These ain't precision machines. That does look like a very well made bucket. It's rare you see large cast mounting brackets like that.

 

[patrickw10]

Curious if you ended up grabbing that S550? 850 hours is barely broken in, especially if it was just pushing snow. SJC controls are great, you just want to make sure the joysticks aren't too sloppy.

I picked up a similar Bobcat a while back. Not sure if you're planning to use yours for any brush clearing during the summer, but one thing I didn't expect was how hot these things run in dry weeds. I ended up getting a water/firefighting attachment from FYREBX just so I wouldn't have to rely on a dinky fire extinguisher if a spark caught. Definitely something to keep in mind if you take it off the snow duty. How’s the machine holding up?

 

[finn]

It sounds reasonable to me, depending on what you see. I bought a used 2011 Bobcat S650 in 2013, with 600 hours, a one owner, and it was in mint condition. I don't use it a lot, but I have 1,700 hours on it now and the only thing I did was had the A/C recharged once. I found out I needed to run it even in the winter and it probably would not have lost its charge, keeping the seals pliant. When I was looking for the one I bought, I found the ones used on construction had over 2,000 hours and were kind of beat up. One came from a fertilizer plant, and that one was sandblasted and repainted, looked brand new, but if you really looked around, you could see the corrosion below the new paint, the hydraulic lines were pitted so bad it appeared they would start leaking. If it was maintained and not rusting out, those low hours will be in your favor. Perhaps a rental lived a milder life than one on a construction crew potentially getting worked pretty hard every day. I think solid or foam filled tires work pretty good on hard surfaces, but if you are going to be on gravel and dirt, I would want air filled tires. My Dad had a M600 Bobcat in the 1960's on the farm, and Bobcat is the only brand I'm really familiar with, and my S650 is a great machine for me. I use it for cutting about 60 acres of Eastern Red Cedar trees with a tree shear on our farm ground, building fence, and general stuff where we live, and I really like my Bobcat. Be sure to use a diesel fuel lubricant in the fuel, its needed now that Sulphur has been taken out of the diesel fuel that you buy, as it will extend the life of the injector pump. I put anti-gel in my fuel in cooler temps, but once the weather gets to around 20 degrees or so, I switch over to Number 1 diesel fuel, and still add anti-gel. Be sure to regularly switch out the engine air filters, timely oil changes, hydraulic filters and change out the hydraulic fluid per service recommendations, and it should be a great machine for you.

You’re not doing the machine any favors by running number 1 Diesel fuel. It has lower heating value, so the engine produces less power and it’s close to jet fuel, which has lower lubricity than number 2 Diesel.

The only good thing about it is that the pour point is suppressed so it doesn’t gel as readily at low temperatures.

 

[jblnut]

But I'm planning on buying a pallet fork attachment immediately.

A set of pallet forks is a must. Then you’ll be able to unload the rest of the attachments that come on pallets lol. I think I’m up to 32 different attachments for my skid loaders so far lol.

All Bobcat skid steers that I've dealt with are pretty tough units. We typically run them to 10,000 hours. My 2019 S650 is sitting at 5,000 hours now with no major repairs.
Run it and operate it before purchasing. If it checks out I would change all fluids & filters

I have an S185 with 18,000ish hours and an S300 with close to 10,000hrs. S185 got a new engine after a ***** neighbor “borrowed” it and filled the thing up with gas. Dumb. The S300 hasn’t been touched other than oil changes, water pump and a few other minor things. I also have a Case 1840 with close to 30,000hrs on the frame. It’s been through hell and back and keeps going. It was used as a calf feeding/chore rig for 20yrs and got a lot of idle time.

A skid loader is a dang handy tool to have. It looks sharp for the price and makes me wonder what’s wrong right it lol. Hopefully it works out for you. Those tires aren’t worth a **** in sloppy stuff or snow just an fyi.

 

[AEAdam]

A set of pallet forks is a must. Then you’ll be able to unload the rest of the attachments that come on pallets lol. I think I’m up to 32 different attachments for my skid loaders so far lol.

Funny!
Yesterday or maybe day before, neighbor called me asking for help unloading his toolboxes. He just retired and was bringing his boxes home. We used HF strops, sliding the loops over the forks, slinging the boxes below.

The forks have been super helpful. I’ve even used them for some light trenching work.

A skid loader is a dang handy tool to have. It looks sharp for the price and makes me wonder what’s wrong right it lol. Hopefully it works out for you. Those tires aren’t worth a **** in sloppy stuff or snow just an fyi.

It’s been great. Not a lemon. Running great.

As for the tires, I have dirt work on hills coming up, maybe stump removal, and from my experience so far, these tires are not ideal. Should I be looking for new pneumatic tires or leave these on and sourcing a set of over the tire tracks?

 

[AEAdam]

I'd start by taking a sledgehammer to the lower ears circled in red. Looks like you need just a little more of a gap so the bucket will sit flush to the machines mounting plate, so you can lock the pins. These ain't precision machines. That does look like a very well made bucket. It's rare you see large cast mounting brackets like that.

My solution was simply to cut a tiny bit more clearance in these lower slots. Now I can pin my bucket off without a sledge hammer. Sometimes it’s stiff, but I think that’s okay. I wish I had power bobtach. It’s a very expensive aftermarket upgrade. I guess the core issue is I’ve been operating this with the door on. To lock an attachment I have to open the door (obviously) which means the arms must be pretty much all the way down.

 

[racecougar]

As for the tires, I have dirt work on hills coming up, maybe stump removal, and from my experience so far, these tires are not ideal. Should I be looking for new pneumatic tires or leave these on and sourcing a set of over the tire tracks?

Tracks. They will outperform any tire. We've run over-the-tire steel tracks on this 843 for ~3 decades now; they're invaluable!

 

[jblnut]

Funny!
Yesterday or maybe day before, neighbor called me asking for help unloading his toolboxes. He just retired and was bringing his boxes home. We used HF strops, sliding the loops over the forks, slinging the boxes below.

The forks have been super helpful. I’ve even used them for some light trenching work.

It’s been great. Not a lemon. Running great.

As for the tires, I have dirt work on hills coming up, maybe stump removal, and from my experience so far, these tires are not ideal. Should I be looking for new pneumatic tires or leave these on and sourcing a set of over the tire tracks?

If you get different tires I have had very good luck with Camso SKS752’s. We’ve worn down dozens of sets and they last a loooooong time for a tire of its design. I’ve tried 753’s and liked the longevity of them but they didn’t do well in mud and bed pack in the barn. I had a set of 775’s on a skiddy when it was being used in the barn and on concrete only and they were fantastic but worthless once you went outside.

Steel tracks are an absolute game changer but come with their downfalls. They are hard on any surface you care about and will destroy grass and leave marks on pavement of any kind. I have a set of Loggering Grousers that have dozer pads that I run on the S300 when I load manure off piles in fields. They turn it into a tank but are hard on the driveline.

 

[AEAdam]

What about rubber OTTs like McLarens? Spendy for sure. I imagine they are not as grippy as steel