Buying a used steel building

[TrendSetter]

I found a nice looking (in the photos) 3 year old steel building, its 30x39x18 and the ad says it has already been disassembled. It has a 12x16 roll up door and a single man door.
assuming the guy didnt disassemble with a torch and a bulldozer...is this something worth pursuing? I have an email out to him asking if hardware was saved and who made the building.
what else should i consider? this would save me quite a bit. it appears to be about half-ish retail price of similar buildings new on craigslist.

 

[Barnabas]

At half price there had better be a guarantee that all parts are there and the building can be assembled correctly.

If no guarentee, then maybe one-fourth the new price or less.

 

[readhead]

Do you have a building department? Will the building plans and engineering satisfy the building department?

In my neck of the woods a used building is worth nothing if it has to be taken down and maybe scrap value if it is already on the ground. The sheeting is probably no good after being wet several times in three years.

Having the original stamped plans is the only thing that might give it value.

 

[JamesW84]

one of my old neighbors did that. He bought an old automotive dealership/shop. I think he said it was 60x80 or something like that, but I'd say 10 ft walls at the most. I think he said he paid $15,000 and then I believe he said he paid 3 or 4 thousand to get someone to put it back together.

Moral: Yes people purchase used buildings. Yes, there is some risk.

I'd probably talk with a salesperson for a steel building company before pulling the trigger. I've read that they can get pretty aggressive with their pricing - especially if they have a canceled order, etc. Perhaps you could score one of those for 1/2 price (I've read of a guy having a salesperson quote him $7500 for a building that started out at $25,000).

 

[readhead]

And I have a dam for sale in Arizona. The "somebody didn't pick up their building" is the biggest scam in the building business.

 

[captain14]

Just over the weekend someone posted about his build thread and he started with a used building that was never assembled I believe.

Maybe you should read about that adventure first. I think it was a Quonset Hut building.
It was an older thread that he he recently posted or someone made comments and bumped it to the top again.

 

[73RR]

You don't say what the asking price is or whether or not you will erect the building yourself. Adding a bunch of labour can quickly eat up any savings.
For some folks, like me, the Structural Steel Arch style is cost effective and easy to erect ( years ago I erected a 45x102x 19h by myself) but depending on your local codes the required concrete could get expensive and the only effective insulation is spray foam. They are excellent buildings if you worry about high winds, or big snow loads.
Structural Steel Arch is not a Quonset hut.

 

[TrendSetter]

It comes with engineered plans.
I plan to reassemble it myself.
he is asking 7500.
Wind loads are definitely a concern here. In the end I was something that can fit a lift and maybe even a 2nd floor small studio apartment. The lift is mandatory, the apartment is not.

 

[pop pop]

Read the engineering plans for loads, including loads for lighting fixtures, etc. If it's not stated, it's not included. Then you have to proof the bill of materials. All this before you ascertain material condition as is. If it's designed properly, all there, in good condition there would be nothing wrong with it.

 

[WickedMainer]

I have had this debate several times with myself. Because of snowload here code enforcement wants stamped plans period. Not bad if you have plans but to get stamped isn't cheap. Not many Structural guys like stamping used buildings. Little more liability I would assume.

Coincidentally if I take down and stand up an old timberframe barn it falls under a different code for heavy timber and it's much less restrictive. I can cut my own timbers without a mill stamp but can't cut my own conventional framing without a stamp..... the ceo is clueless with heavy timber codes so the answers I get are never the same the 1st 2nd 3rd 4th time or upon inspection.... get the answer in writing!!!!!!I also have had her walk off without inspecting for slipping and saying no **** Sherlock under my breath...doesn't forget that either so even if the CEO can win the deputy dip**** award stay on there good side as it helps when you have something not so cut and dry like this

 

[WickedMainer]

Read the engineering plans for loads, including loads for lighting fixtures, etc. If it's not stated, it's not included. Then you have to proof the bill of materials. All this before you ascertain material condition as is. If it's designed properly, all there, in good condition there would be nothing wrong with it.

Spot on. it could/likely needs a engineers stamp and that would in most cases requiring paying an engineer to go over the plans, inspect the condition and properties of materials and so forth. Can usually get that relatively cheap if you need a stamp for foundation already and it has all the paperwork with it.

 

[TrendSetter]

This is florida, so wind loads are a concern but not snow load. When i go look at it, ill take a look at the drawings. I also asked who made the building so i can follow up with the manufacturer. I would like to see what my options are for extending it to 60 or 80 ft from the 39 it currently is.

thanks for the insight everyone

 

[matt_i]

I would factor in buying all new metal skin. There is no way the holes are going to all line up again, biggest issue is in the roof.

 

[nehog]

Figure out how much it weighs. Offer them scrap value. If they don't bite, move on.

You'll be missing pieces, things won't fit right, holes in sheeting will be off, there will be no ends to the headaches. The only way it could be easy to do is if you were to have marked every piece, carefully collected every screw, bolt, and fitting, making care to not damage a single thing. Then you'd have to carefully replicate the original floor/foundation to allow the building to settle exactly as it was before so all holes (especially sheeting) to line up.

Then once you get frustrated you can sell the steel for scrap and get your money back!

 

[Richard Cranium]

make sure you get the stamped engineered plans, with out that it is scrap iron.

 

[brownbagg]

wind load and snow loads really dont apply because its not a residents, it an unoccupied building

 

[matt_i]

Offer them scrap value. If they don't bite, move on.

I'd offer slightly less than scrap value, as someone has to expend time and fuel to move that stuff to the scrap yard...neither of which are free....thereby further reducing its value.

 

[readhead]

If he has the original plans with a wet stamp the plans have to match the current code year and requirements for your building department.

I did an erecting job for a situation just like this early on and lost my ***. To many problems and missing parts. Never again.

 

[Norcal]

If being inspected, a set of plans is a must, the hassles of having to get it engineered are not worth it.

 

[73RR]

For those interested, I got this in the email dump today.

 

[WickedMainer]

wind load and snow loads really dont apply because its not a residents, it an unoccupied building

Would be surprised. I may be an extreme due to snow but only strictly agricultural buildings are exempt here.

 

[WickedMainer]

This is florida, so wind loads are a concern but not snow load. When i go look at it, ill take a look at the drawings. I also asked who made the building so i can follow up with the manufacturer. I would like to see what my options are for extending it to 60 or 80 ft from the 39 it currently is.

thanks for the insight everyone

. Best of luck to you and hope it works out!

 

[nehog]

wind load and snow loads really dont apply because its not a residents, it an unoccupied building

Balderdash. Not around here. Both wind and snow are applicable, both for inspection and for long term safety.

 

[a52-830]

wind load and snow loads really dont apply because its not a residents, it an unoccupied building

depending on your state. here in massachusettes, anything that requires a building permit (which seems to be anything that you can stand in) requires all that paperwork. the morton building guys i have dealt with comment that some states require no engineering certificates for outbuildings, but coastal states tend to require it.

before you spend that kind of money, you should figure that out. one of the towns near me will make you take it completely apart before they will even accept your application for a permit if they catch you.

 

[WickedMainer]

depending on your state. here in massachusettes, anything that requires a building permit (which seems to be anything that you can stand in) requires all that paperwork. the morton building guys i have dealt with comment that some states require no engineering certificates for outbuildings, but coastal states tend to require it.

before you spend that kind of money, you should figure that out. one of the towns near me will make you take it completely apart before they will even accept your application for a permit if they catch you.

It seems to be not as much a coastal thing as a New York north thing... even the live free or die state. What's crazy is Maine does not have a liscensing system for contractors, yet regulate the **** out of construction.

 

[bgarrett]

I bought a 40x 80 engineered steel building frame and put it up 30 years ago. I'm happy with it. $3000, no tin

 

[Farrier]

If the local gooberment is satisfied, and you can get the price down, I say get er done.

 

[wellcoman]

I bought a new used Steel master building and could not put it up. the snow load code changed right after it was bought it. I had it for 2 years and the guy I got it from had it for 2 years. Steel master would not help as I was not the original purchaser. Good old NY laws