Buying a welder...

[kimper007]

I am in the market for a mig welder and was curious what was everyone’s thoughts on them. I am not looking for a 1000.00 piece because I only plan on using it every once in a while when needed. I have looked a Hobart, Lincoln, Eastwood, Miller, and even some Harbor Frieght models. Does anyone have any input to the best bang for the buck on them, models I should stay away from or just ones that are going on sale. I am just looking for some input..

 

[GRivera]

The Hobart Handler 140 is an exceptional entry level mig welder. Northern Tool May have a small discount during Black Friday.

 

[lilredex]

If I were just starting out, I'd probably look at one of these, especially for $150.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430172

 

[matt_i]

One thing to consider is that if you did buy a more expensive model they do retain their value. Red and blue have repair parts and service centers and not all inexpensive models do the same.

 

[zak77]

The Hobart Handler 140 is an exceptional entry level mig welder. Northern Tool May have a small discount during Black Friday.

Totally agree!!! I bought one and used it for years on numerous projects, then got an MVP 210 and sold the 140 for $350.

 

[sberry]

I will agree that is some of the simplist statements about money we have seen which is retain their value. Tis is a different number than "resale" value although I have seen some real deals but by people simply didn't care and the money not actually a big deal where they were not in love with it.

 

[BPJOOP93]

I suggest red or blue. Customer service and parts availability are important. Hobart is just a cheaper Miller. Still a good machine. What amp are you looking for? What voltage? What will you be welding?

 

[sberry]

Its a tool, you will use it way more than you intend once its in hand. It can return money with modest use.

 

[sberry]

The 1000$ machine, or less works very well and can be all the machine a guy needs for good long time. A hobby guy cant wear out a new Hobart if he tried. It is kind of a cheaper Miller but,,, it is cheaper and works just as well, shares so many same parts, and the main thing makes it cheaper is the simplicity of tap voltage, the blue one has all the latest greatest features, surprised it doesn't have a radio a fridge a 3 ft blonde with a flat head, got so much stuff on it that its not really a help.
It distracts from learning the settings. Its trying to compensate for error and a guy is filling big ole open fitups etc. If a guy has variable he needs a meter. My go to has a 5 speed that I have been using same thing for decades and thousands of beads. 3 settings, thin, medium and thick.
Much or mostly on thick due to it being 030 and a small machine, you can weld thin a lot faster. Start getting around 12 gage and thicker and it can b wide open which provides the real melting power, super for stock car chassis etc. The operator can learn to run it just short of burning thru and even root fill. I rarely bevel a 1/4 plate, just leave some gap so I can melt a hole in it and add filler.

 

[sberry]

I can post a couple pics but the regulars seen them. I tested a Hobart right out of the box. I followed the door chart on 1/4 plate, I wanna see what she will do right off. I set it by the door, ran a bead and make 1 adjustment to get it to wide open. Second bead show quality, poster case. Could take it straight to nascar on the second bead. 240V circuit though.
Dan hangs around forums is about one of the best testers says he found a little glitch spot and I did too under really fussy testing. Any less rigorous and its hard to tell. Could have used a gear between 3 and 4 on alum too but its pretty minor.
The guy that tuned the small SPT,,, they still sell at the box store is about perfect for 030, its really really good. Only a few experts could take advantage of any kind of improvement in limited cases. Not worth the extra money for it all. Hobart 190 if you got power, a pro mig or what they call the red one from the box stores with 5 speed tap. Put a roll of that super arc in it and its about as good as it gets within its limits. For 300$ more than a 140 can double the horsepower with a 240 model.

 

[kimper007]

I suggest red or blue. Customer service and parts availability are important. Hobart is just a cheaper Miller. Still a good machine. What amp are you looking for? What voltage? What will you be welding?

I am looking for something that will weld everything from sheet metal up to 5/16. I have my garage wired for a welder with a 50amp breaker but I am sure I don’t need to go that big. I like to work on snowmobiles, cars and anything else that runs on gas. I am 42 and work in the mining industry where we weld steel up to 3/4” so I usually use a Millermatic 350 or 250. I am sure I could use them for sheet metal but I don’t want to spend the 3000.00 on it. I am just looking for opinions and options. Thanks for all the input.

 

[matt_i]

The 140A class can do a lot of work. Heavier stuff is well within reach via back-beveling with an angle grinder.

You have to "build" the penetration and fillet rather than just laying it down in 1 pass.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

For general home use, welding body panels and some medium duty fabricating 140amp machine works good. We have a Lincoln 140 at home and I've welded in patch panels on a mustang, and I've also rebuilt a skid steer bucket and added extra supports to a trailer

 

[PWC Repair]

If I were just starting out, I'd probably look at one of these, especially for $150.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430172

I've been thinking about one of those myself. Plenty of good reviews and Youtube vids showing nice welds. I have an OLD Century flux mig I use for anything I need to do....including building a trailer. But, mine seems to be a bit finicky and only has hi and lo heat settings.

 

[sberry]

A modern 240,,, or maybe even 120V machine would make you feel like a super freaking hero. The 240 allows 030 solid wire which can carry lots more current than 023. It gives the machine some melting power vs the operator got to be so fussy about joint design and multiple pass and basic speed too, double the use of the gas.
This is a good place to stretch the budget for some real value and skip right over a 140 and get a 190 or 210. The 140 are fine machines but there are some for sale, almost no 180/210. The couple hundred in depreciation the 140 will lose in this step isn't bad but could be applied to the extra horsepower right out the gate and end up with a machine some of you guys should have had 20 yrs ago.

 

[ManOnTheCouch]

The Hobart MVP line is probably the best bang for the buck. They're basically Millers that use yesteryears technology instead of the latest and greatest (transformers instead of inverters), but they're time tested and do a great job. Can use 120 or 240 volts. I bought a MVP 210 earlier this year and love it. I researched everything prior to making the purchase. At the end of the day, I eliminated the HF and Eastwoods and limited my search to Lincoln, Miller & Hobart. I saw the 210 MVP on sale and decided it would be the last welder I'd ever need.

 

[u2slow]

IMO, if you're doing anything anything heavier that autobody metal, start with a minimal 240V machine.

My MM211 (Txfmr style, not inverter) runs on a #12/20A circuit. Easy/cheap to wire, and you can put several receptacles around your shop on one circuit.

 

[sweetk30]

red and blue = best resale value later . i dont even look at the off brands or cheep imports .

i have had a hobart handler 140 and it was a great unit . sold it for easy money in no time .

upgraded to a lincoln 140c the guy used for 1 job and got it for 150 off new . works great to this day no problems .

purchased another 140c and the guy had people lined up for it . but since i was first and he knew me he sold it to me . my buddy loves it as he was looking for a good 110 welder .

i also have 2 bigger lincolns and no problems with them .

i got friends with miller units and no problems .

the other brands like esab and few others are good but parts are more money and availability is semi limited unless the dealer is down the road were you get stuff .

 

[TractorJeff]

Neighbor talked about this a few years ago, then dropped it.
2 months ago he was all excited about some Harbor Freight Mig welder. I told him to buy Blue or Red if he was going to buy something reliable. Finally I told him to borrow my Miller 135 and bring it back with a Full tank. Played with it for a week and hasn't touched it since!

 

[ItsNemo]

Since you have experience welding, you know what you're getting into and what your skills are. As such, this isn't a "try it out" situation, this is a "I need this tool to do _____" situation, you should buy one that can do everything you ask of it. I would suggest at least a 180a class machine on 240v but stepping up to the 210/211/215 multi-voltage and potentially multi-process machines is a better bet.

Plus, if you are used to 250-300a class machines, the duty cycle and capabilities of a 140a machine is going to drive you nuts.

 

[MoonRise]

Only sheet metal?

A 140 amp type machine on a 120V circuit can do that.

But 5/16" GMAW? A 240V 180-210 amp class machine will do that.

Red or blue (Lincoln or Miller) has parts support and resale. No-name stuff is hit or miss.

Probably a 210 MVP type machine (can run on 120 at reduced power output or 240 v for full power) will do most stuff a 'home' type guy/gal would want/need.

Lincoln is running a rebate promotion on the 210, brings it down to ~$1100. 120 or 240 volt input capable, GMAW and FCAW (S and some G dual-shield) and SMAW and DC GTAW. Limited to 8" diameter spools though (unless you rig up something yourself outside of the wire spool compartment).

Miller has a similar machine or two.

Hobart also.

If you need to weld thicker stuff, bring it to work and use the 350.

 

[sberry]

Since you have experience welding, you know what you're getting into and what your skills are. As such, this isn't a "try it out" situation, this is a "I need this tool to do _____" situation, you should buy one that can do everything you ask of it. I would suggest at least a 180a class machine on 240v but stepping up to the 210/211/215 multi-voltage and potentially multi-process machines is a better bet.

Plus, if you are used to 250-300a class machines, the duty cycle and capabilities of a 140a machine is going to drive you nuts.

I can hardly see that tiny 023 wire.

 

[sqznby]

You'll regret getting a 140 machine after you buy it. For sheet metal and thin stock it would be fine but anything larger, you'll be limited.

Another option is the Hobart 190, can be had for relatively short money.

 

[rburke65]

I have a Lincoln mig...120 volt. .? 140 amp. I bought the gas bottle. Love it. It will do very thing you want

 

[kimper007]

Thanks for all the responses, I am pretty sure I am going to buy a Hobart, Lincoln or Miller in either 190 or 210 or 220. You guys are great and give good real world advice without being a$$ holes like other sites. Thanks again and I will keep you updated on my purchase.

 

[cspcrx]

I started with a cheap HF. Learned on it then it became the part that was holding me back so I picked up a Hobart 210 MVP. It can do more than I ask and my welding has improved since getting it. I love the machine and flexibility it has. Got it on sale and this time of the year you should find plenty of sales.

 

[John in OH]

I'm not claiming you should buy a $1,000 welder to start out, but with questions like this I'm always reminded of Ben Franklin's famous quote: "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten".

Consider the above as it may apply where often a cheap tool is difficult to learn, difficulty to use, and unreliable.

 

[DGersic]

I am in the market for a mig welder and was curious what was everyone’s thoughts on them. I am not looking for a 1000.00 piece because I only plan on using it every once in a while when needed. I have looked a Hobart, Lincoln, Eastwood, Miller, and even some Harbor Frieght models. Does anyone have any input to the best bang for the buck on them, models I should stay away from or just ones that are going on sale. I am just looking for some input..

I bought a Hobart a couple of years ago. Very happy with the welder. It’s “only” a 110V MIG, but that’s enough for what I’m doing, and if there’s something it can’t do, that’s probably beyond my current skill level anyway.

Check out their web site and have a look at the prices on their factory refurbished units. They’re essentially new, but were out of the box once.



Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[brownbagg]

my first machine was a miller 140 biggest POS that i ever had, would barely weld sheet metal. I got a hobart 230 now, great machine. cyperweld has free shipping, cheaper than tractor supply

 

[Dneel81]

lincoln mp210 machines had on CL around here for 1000 all day long. I ended up buying a Miller 211. IF you're doing auto body stuff, tig would be nice to have. Either way, I havent hit the rev limiter (duty cycle) on my 211 doing 1/4" plate building bumpers, land graders, etc. It's not given me any trouble.

no 110 machine will (read as SHOULD) weld anything beyond 1/8" steel. Penetration is everything and any 110 machine will not have it.

 

[346ci]

Lincoln Pro Mig 140, been a great machine for small stuff.

If you plan on welding anything bigger than 3/16", get a 180+ like mentioned above.

 

[sberry]

I started with a cheap HF. Learned on it then it became the part that was holding me back so I picked up a Hobart 210 MVP. It can do more than I ask and my welding has improved since getting it. I love the machine and flexibility it has.

This is typical. The regret about buying a better machine will be short lived.

my first machine was a miller 140 biggest POS that i ever had, would barely weld sheet metal.

This is what they act like when on the wrong polarity. The Miller should have been very good.

 

[koditten]

Fvck multi process machines! I don't have enough life left to figure every setting out on MIG welder, let alone trying to memorize all the setting for the other types of welding.

I get it, we are red blooded American males. We love our gadgets. In a welder this is not a good thing.

Give me 2 dials and an on/off switch. Like Cary said, the big box stores with the Hobart rigs are amazing for the cost. They will do everything you listed in your requirements.

I will offer that I tried out one of the new Vulcan Harbor Freight machines. I was blown away. The warranty is amazing. These things are a game changer. I predict they will cause the colored welders to think about the prices they are asking.

 

[sberry]

Yes, it has really changed with the inverter. Used to be a knockoff was 2/3 the price of the real thing and didn't work well etc but this has really brought the price down and they work. Welding machines have always been a good value and the US makers were fair about pricing especially considering how good they were.
Compared to other tools from the trucks and compared to models they were selling they were a bargain, they had great warranty you never needed and last a long time. Most welders sold in the last 50 years are still working.
Kirk made a good point about multi process. It might be great once a guy fiddles with it enough but I was in a place the other day and looked at a Lincoln and would have used it if I could have figured out how to turn the fugger on. There must have been 40 dials on it, should have grabbed a picture. Whole front of it covered with knobs and symbols, I didn't have a clue which was which and didn't want to disturb it Torch brazed the part.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Had a Lincoln 140 for years for my hobby welding. Mostly light metals, works great.
Needed to weld thicker steel for a project and also wanted to experiment with TIG, so I bought a Lincoln 210MP.

I keep the 140 loaded with .025 for the light stuff and run .030 in the 210 for a majority of my welding.

I understand personal budgets restrict most of us from buying that one step better unit. Of course, in hindsight, I should have just bought the larger machine to start with.

 

[Keithinsc]

I didn't see if anyone mentioned it yet, but buy one capable of gas.
Flux core wire has its place, but being able to run a clean bead under shielding gas beats it hands down.

Red or blue. Buy once, cry once.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I didn't see if anyone mentioned it yet, but buy one capable of gas.
Flux core wire has its place, but being able to run a clean bead under shielding gas beats it hands down.

Red or blue. Buy once, cry once.

It's been a few years since I was in the MIG market, but do they even make MIGs that can't run gas?

 

[sberry]

Having machines for each size of wire it great, I do this. As Ahole said, he has both but once you have 030 that's what he does the majority of the work with. The 023 is great where it's needed and is a lot easier with light sheet but it hits a threshold quick. Lots of cases gaps are easier with larger wire.

 

[GRivera]

Keep in mind any of the larger machines (beyond 140) require the upgrade in electrical supply as well unless they're dual mode, which is why based on your opening post I think a Hobart Handler 140 fits the bill at about $500 - less on sale. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X43F38/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That being said if money isn't a major factor I doubt you'll regret a 240V machine.

 

[MoonRise]

I'm not claiming you should buy a $1,000 welder to start out, but with questions like this I'm always reminded of Ben Franklin's famous quote: "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten".

Consider the above as it may apply where often a cheap tool is difficult to learn, difficulty to use, and unreliable.

aka,

Buy once, cry once.

Or, in true Garage Journal tradition, go big and get an Invertec V350 Pro Advanced process model. With an LN-25 Pro suitcase wire feeder. You will have to upgrade your electrical service to run it though.