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Buying used Tool Truck Boxes

Doughnuts

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Ive been shopping for a used toolbox on facebook marketplace and have come up with a way to determine whether im paying too much. I started calculating the price based on cubic inches of the box and determined based on observation that a price of 6 to 8 cents is a good ballpark estimate on what these boxes go for in my area used. Obviously a harbor frieght box will not get the same price per inch as a snap on epiq. Ive been watching boxes and what they appear to sell for and this is the only way ive been able to price these things and compare apples to apples. I think im pretty close. Any thoughts on this or a better way of doing it?
 
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nadogail

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IMHO, A "seat of the pants" method is better. A monster box could have been abused and neglected and it could have a very low price per cubic inch.

I suggest you adopt a Zen Method of trying to imagine how the box was used in the past and what you intend to do with it once you get it to it's new home.
 

toddmorr

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interesting approach, as long as you're basing it on what the boxes actually sell for, rather than asking price. asking price means nothing, especially because so many were bought at inflated prices and sellers have a tough time facing reality.
 

Mr_B

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known selling range of exact truck brand and range model along with actual condition is only way .
cubic inch not allowing for condition and exact spec and on used that the BIG key to it's realistic resale value .
 
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Doughnuts

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known selling range of exact truck brand and range model along with actual condition is only way .
cubic inch not allowing for condition and exact spec and on used that the BIG key to it's realistic resale value .

I do think using the cubic inch method is going on the only spec thats important. Case in point my son wants a triple bank but that only takes into account the width. And some of the smaller widths in a deeper box have larger capacity such as the epics being 30 inches deep. Some of the triple banks are short and shallow. Of course the price will vary based on condition and its difficult to determine the final price but i cant come up with a better way. I chuckle when i see someone asking 4k for a kra2422 and i see it constantly. Then i see the box still for sale a month later listed at 2k. The actual price sold for is probably closer to 1500 which would put it at about 6 cents per ci. Just some observations.
 
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Mr_B

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^
and cubic inch won't allow for top type if got one, power strip, power drawer, exact truck brand or even the box series (classic KR KRL Epic etc)
Only way you judge price is knowing box exact spec, condition, off the truck price new and rough idea from knowledge or research of what same models are selling for and what you willing pay yourself and also how desperate a seller is to get it shifted .
One thing I will say is triple banks tend hold better prices as most upgrade to a 3 bay so that what most want and 2 bays are the real steals.
I went 2 matco 2 bays as at the time gave me basically 4 bays 112" of box, easier logistic handling and was so cheap for what getting it made a used 72" 3 bay look small and no value .
 
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Doughnuts

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^thats an interesting and valid point you have about the triple banks commanding higher resale based on desireability.
 
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seber

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I feel if you are going to base a price on just one aspect, pennies per pound would be more appropriate. Compare a KRA to a KRL and even though the cubic inches are the same, the weight will give a reason why one is more expensive. Still, condition and features have to be part of the analysis.
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

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If you are buying a used tool truck box be sure to buy it directly from the truck I had a coworker who bought one on Craigslist and Snap-on was looking for it because it hadn’t been paid for in full and he bought it and the guy told my Snap-on dealer so he had to take it back because my coworker didn’t want to pay what was remaining as the box was almost new and he had already paid half price for it from the individual that had it and the guy still owed more than half on it. So now he has a new Snap-on one now that he is paying for in full himself.


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ER70S-2

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Shopping based on cubic inches is almost useless unless you only want to know how much stuff you can put in it and you don't care about brand, condition, drawer layout, depth, width, or height, color, how the drawers slide, what kind of top it has, etc etc. Basically all of the stuff that is important (volume is important, too).
 
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Doughnuts

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I feel if you are going to base a price on just one aspect, pennies per pound would be more appropriate. Compare a KRA to a KRL and even though the cubic inches are the same, the weight will give a reason why one is more expensive. Still, condition and features have to be part of the analysis.

I didnt even think about that. I agree it would definitely be more accurate. It would automatically account for the heavier gauge boxes which inherently cost more. I do believe my 6 to 8 cents is very close but im going to do some new calculations based on weight. Boy i can really obsess over things.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Drawer layout is king IMO. The KRL family also comes in two depths; KRL7XX is 24", KRL10XX is 30". The KRL10xx also has an extra row of 4 inch drawers.

Cubic inches isn't the ultimate metric. Would you buy a hot pink box with better cubic inches? All thin drawers? Or all 4 inch+ depth?
 
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Doughnuts

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The housing cost per square foot is exactly the approach i was using. Its never exact and theres always variables to consider but i think its a fair ballpark estimate. I also used the other suggestion of price per pound and it resulted in very similar prices these boxes seem* to be selling for compared to the ci calculation. When shopping houses one of the first things i look at is price per square. If it seemed high it had to have some serious features or a lot of land or it was just overpriced. Same concept with boxes. Nobodys claiming its perfect but if its been done forever with houses it can be done here as well.
 
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