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C clamp to press U joint caps on

signcrafter

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I was watching a video today on the tiger tools U joint puller and saw they have a special C clamp for pressing the new caps on,
. Is there anything special about this C clamp that a regular C clamp couldn't do? I see the clamp ends are a little different shaped and the end of the pressure screw is hex to work with a socket. Just wondering if I'm missing something here or if this is just a glorified C clamp? http://www.tigertool.com/index.cfm?...4-81ae-7521-650f0d50e162&sortBy=DisplayOrder&
 
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Stick

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Pretty much a glorified C-clamp. It's a nice C-clamp with special ends and all, but nothing terribly innovative. Personally I use my ball joint press for u-joints.
 

Stooge

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not just a glorified c clamp.... its $160 glorified c clamp with fancy hammer finish paint, looks remarkably like most ball joint presses which are almost always marketed as being able to service u joints :dunno:
 
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signcrafter

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Pretty much a glorified C-clamp. It's a nice C-clamp with special ends and all, but nothing terribly innovative. Personally I use my ball joint press for u-joints.

I was reading on iatn last night that using a ball joint press can bend the yoke and isn't the "right" way to do them? I too have always used my ball joint press and haven't had any problems. Any opinion on why some on iatn say it's bad to use a ball joint press?

not just a glorified c clamp.... its $160 glorified c clamp with fancy hammer finish paint, looks remarkably like most ball joint presses which are almost always marketed as being able to service u joints :dunno:

Holly cow, I didn't even price it. Just noticed the installer while watching the video on the puller. That's crazy. I know it says it has a magnet recessed into the end but 160 bucks is way to steep for what it is! Weld a nut onto a c clamp and you're good to go.
 

srmofo

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I Used A Vise For Several Years....Now I Just Pay $5And Let TheDriveShaftShop Press Them In.
 

Outlawmws

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I was reading on iatn last night that using a ball joint press can bend the yoke and isn't the "right" way to do them? I too have always used my ball joint press and haven't had any problems. Any opinion on why some on iatn say it's bad to use a ball joint press?
SNIP

What pray tell makes a "special press for U Joints" special? :headscrat

I've seen them done and done them in Vices, C clamps, Ball Joint presses Hydraulic presses and with a couple of sockets and a hammer. The only time I've ever see a yoke tweaked was from it coming in violent contact with the ground or frame on U joint failure, forgetting to take the keepers out before pressing, or the yoke being damaged and not allowing the cap to press out reasonably (See damaged yoke above)...

A C clamp is harder to use as the thread is typically much coarser than a ball joint clamp. Same for a vise, but it has that big lever...

A clamp is a clamp is a clamp...
 
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mvptrukin

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but,.. but, it's made in Canada, so therefore better than China/Taiwan ... or does that logic only work for USA?

:canada:
I like the Tiger HD truck tools especially if the shop buys them,well made , good design! But as they say in Canada---SPENDY!
 

srmofo

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:thumbup:

For $5 they would get my business !

Seriously, thats all they charge when you buy the joints from them and they sell a higher quality joint for just a few bucks more than the parts houses.

Next time you have to do one, call the clutch and joint or driveshaft shops.

Ours even picks up and delivers when done.
 

STGFordCrazy04

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I Used A Vise For Several Years....Now I Just Pay $5And Let TheDriveShaftShop Press Them In.


Being in the 4wd/offroad mud truck scene for a good number of years I feel like I could make a damn good living pressing ujoints in all day long.

It would be boring as hell though.

:beer:


In the shop, I use a socket and hammer to knock them out and a vise to put them back together. Ive used a press but to be honest its just not as fast or really necessary.

Laying on my back in the mud everything short of duct tape has been used to take them out and put them back together. A trailer ball makes a pretty decent anvil too. :D
 

Stick

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I was reading on iatn last night that using a ball joint press can bend the yoke and isn't the "right" way to do them? I too have always used my ball joint press and haven't had any problems. Any opinion on why some on iatn say it's bad to use a ball joint press?

If you don't pay attention, you can get the bearing cap cocked in the bore when pressing them in place. Some yokes aren't perfectly square, which makes it easier to make that mistake. Add an impact to the process and it can be a bad situation if you aren't paying attention.

That said, I've never had a problem.
 

MattPersman

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I have that tiger tool set that the clamp comes in, tried it a couple times, nothing fast or easy about it. Just sits in my tool box. I just use a hammer to do u joints probably have done a couple hundred I'm the last few years alone so you find the best way to do things

I have seen some slightly tweaked yokes from people trying to use a ball joint press. I can happen.
 
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signcrafter

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I have that tiger tool set that the clamp comes in, tried it a couple times, nothing fast or easy about it. Just sits in my tool box. I just use a hammer to do u joints probably have done a couple hundred I'm the last few years alone so you find the best way to do things

I have seen some slightly tweaked yokes from people trying to use a ball joint press. I can happen.

Well if you want to donate it I will pay shipping!:beer:
 

Outlawmws

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I was reading on iatn last night that using a ball joint press can bend the yoke and isn't the "right" way to do them? I too have always used my ball joint press and haven't had any problems. Any opinion on why some on iatn say it's bad to use a ball joint press?
.

What pray tell makes a "special press for U Joints" special? :headscrat


A clamp is a clamp is a clamp...


If a Ball/U joint press isn't the "Right" tool, What is? (According to IATN...)
 
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signcrafter

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If a Ball/U joint press isn't the "Right" tool, What is? (According to IATN...)

This is the article I was reading, http://members.iatn.net/forums/read/msg.aspx?f=forum16&m=8577&fv=3&page=1. " This type of
c-frame press forces not only the cap out, but the yoke
ears together. The cap retaining rings then become very
difficult, if not impossible, to install. Another incorrect
practice often added is a little technician induced fire
wrenching to remove the plastic injection molding retaining
the original factory caps. Heat not only weakens the yoke,
but ups the risk of having the yoke ears fall in towards
one another under c-frame pressure."

I've always used a ball joint press also, just what I have and it's always worked for me. I was just doing some searching on some different U joint tools and came across the C clamp to press the joint caps on. I've seen the tiger tools U joint puller before and looks nice but hadn't seen the clamp to install the caps. Was just wondering if there was something special about it that made it 160 bucks. Or why you couldn't just use a normal C clamp?
 

Stick

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Best quote of the thread:

John Gillespie said:
One thing that this thread brings out though is it does not matter if we are talking about a pen, a paint brush, a keyboard, a hammer with or without a chisel, or even a chain saw. In some peoples hands any one of them is capable of creating a work of art, they could also be capable of great atrocities in someone else's hands. Being able to create a work of art with a hammer is part of our feild, it's not a sign of poor workmanship.

In short, there is no "right" or "wrong" way of doing things. Even different manufacturers have differing methods of accomplishing the same task, and what may be recommended at one point in time, may no longer be the preferred method later on. Do what works for you, and what you are confident in.

Also, I wouldn't say that the vehicle in question in the OP in the iatn thread had a problem with the method of installation (though I don't use a hammer, unless it's a deadblow), it was a failure on the part of the previous tech to ensure the clips were seated in their groove, and also a failure to test drive the vehicle to ensure the vibration was gone. Blaming the method of installation is akin to blaming a firearm for killing someone. It's not the tool, it's the user...
 
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signcrafter

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Best quote of the thread:



In short, there is no "right" or "wrong" way of doing things. Even different manufacturers have differing methods of accomplishing the same task, and what may be recommended at one point in time, may no longer be the preferred method later on. Do what works for you, and what you are confident in.

Also, I wouldn't say that the vehicle in question in the OP in the iatn thread had a problem with the method of installation (though I don't use a hammer, unless it's a deadblow), it was a failure on the part of the previous tech to ensure the clips were seated in their groove, and also a failure to test drive the vehicle to ensure the vibration was gone. Blaming the method of installation is akin to blaming a firearm for killing someone. It's not the tool, it's the user...

That's a good point. Thanks for all the advice.

Does anyone use a regular C clamp to install the new bearing caps? Or do you guys just use your ball joint press? I've always used my ball joint press but not sure if there would be any benefit to using a regular C clamp other then being lighter then a ball joint press?
 

Outlawmws

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That's a good point. Thanks for all the advice.

Does anyone use a regular C clamp to install the new bearing caps? Or do you guys just use your ball joint press? I've always used my ball joint press but not sure if there would be any benefit to using a regular C clamp other then being lighter then a ball joint press?

The only real difference assuming you have something for a "punch" and a receiver for the cup coming out as well as a Clamp up to the job is the thread pitch. Ball joint tools have a fine thread pitch so are slower, but clamp harder with the same rotational force, and the lever is likely to be a long(er) wrench where a C clamp that size is usually Acme (Very coarse) thread, and the "lever" is generally shorter.
 
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