C7000 hoist shim question

[tng2000]

Just read the instructions for the C7000, it indicates to not use more than 1/8 thick shim to level when using the drop in anchors. I checked my floor and I'll need about 1/4" at one end to make the columns level.


Hoping someone has had experience with this...

 

[JohnnyK8]

Did not need shims. Your floor must have some serious lean. Was it just poured?

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[tng2000]

Original garage floor in a 32yr old home and yes, it has a pretty good slope. I think it is somewhat excessive but that's the way it was made. how much thread is sticking out past the nut on your hoist ?

 

[JohnnyK8]

Are you using the powers anchors that came with it?

The bolts that came with mine were too long. I tossed them after bottoming them out and stripping one them and replaced them all with epoxy anchors. I tossed it all and busted up the floor at that time too.

The bolts might be too long bud. That's why they are sticking out. Can you please take a picture for me.

I have seen guys use an epoxy later to build up the layer inter the post. The stuff is super strong.

https://goo.gl/photos/5LMVfdTSAmexwtDF6

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[JohnnyK8]

Check out this thread

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=65457&share_fid=20318&share_type=t

The key is to make sure your pads are parallel. When the arms are extended one or two shims (1/4") translates to a significant change at the end of the hoist arms.

Worry about the pads being even to each other.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/leveling/

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[matt_i]

Two issues I see, one is the fastener length, I have my doubts this is a true "drop-in anchor" that's expanded by a hammered pin before a bolt is driven into it...are these wedge-anchor studs?

Also the thicker shims would create load concentrations on the concrete.

One could get around this by tracing the "foot" onto say cardboard and then onto a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as a full-sized spacer plate. Steel of course is a possibility but it will rust/corrode over time unless this is a true grease pit and likely stain the concrete in a wider area as well.

Once spacer is in place, use thin shims to tweak level.

 

[tng2000]

Check out this thread

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=65457&share_fid=20318&share_type=t

The key is to make sure your pads are parallel. When the arms are extended one or two shims (1/4") translates to a significant change at the end of the hoist arms.

Worry about the pads being even to each other.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/leveling/

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Thanks for the photos !, that cleared up my question. For some reason I thought that studs poke out of the concrete !, clearly they don't.

 

[JohnnyK8]

Good - this hoist is removable so it has female anchors

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[JohnnyK8]

These are the anchors that came with mine before replacing them.

Two issues I see, one is the fastener length, I have my doubts this is a true "drop-in anchor" that's expanded by a hammered pin before a bolt is driven into it...are these wedge-anchor studs?

Also the thicker shims would create load concentrations on the concrete.

One could get around this by tracing the "foot" onto say cardboard and then onto a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as a full-sized spacer plate. Steel of course is a possibility but it will rust/corrode over time unless this is a true grease pit and likely stain the concrete in a wider area as well.

Once spacer is in place, use thin shims to tweak level.

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[JohnnyK8]

So where are we at OP? Install this ***** or what?!

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