Cabinet Construction

[backafter20]

My first post here. I am finishing/organizing my garage from scratch. Have done the floor, electrical, walls/ceiling, paint and trim. Have done everything myself except the drywall. Ready to start storage cabinets. Cabinets will just be plywood boxes built on the wall. Nothing touching the floor. From everything I've read, plywood doors (most will be 2' x 6' in size) will warp on me, and there isn't much I can do about it. According to other posts, MDF will likely warp as well. I live in Denver, so humidity isn't much of a problem, but I want my doors to be stable. I have read that hollow core interior doors can be used, and the local HD has them quite cheap. ($21 each for plain luan, $22 for embossed six-panel) They seem rather thick for cabinet doors, however. The six-panel would look nice, but maybe be a bit fancy for what I had in mind, which was more of an industrial look. Luan are rather plain, but lightweight. Both would have to be cut down to height and require filling of the cut end(s). I was hoping to avoid fancy woodworking using custom joints, pocket screws, biscuits, or whatever. I was wondering if I could custom make my own hollow core doors by sandwiching a 1x frame between either luan or masonite on the outside, and maybe pegboard on the inside? That way I could hang things on the inside of the doors. If these are glued/screwed together, would these be stable and strong? I know the edges might look ugly, but I want them durable and useful. Any ideas on adding that "industrial" look? Some kind of inexpensive metal trim or bolt heads? Your ideas are appreciated. Thanks for all the ideas I've already gotten from lurking here.

 

[buening]

MDF should work fine for cabinet doors as long as it is properly primed and painted and has a sufficient amount of hinges. MDF doesn't have any grain to warp in a particular direction like plywood and is considered dimensionally stable. I've only heard MDF warping when heat is applied to only one side, like veneering. Some of the higher end cabinet makers use MDF core plywood, but don't have any experience with that.

The only thing MDF doesn't work well for is shelving.

 

[Sureshot]

You could also make your doors in 2'x2' or 2'x3' depending on your shelves and not likely have any warpage. I have some lockers that are 19"x72 plywood doors that have not warped. I also have some large "lockers" with 4'x8' doors that have warped but most likely due to poor hinge placement and poor painting practice. All of these are nearing ten yrs old. Be sure to prime and paint properly.

 

[Zeke]

On ply door I use a metal or wood brace on the inside of the leading edge. The hinge side stays straight due to the hinges which I place every 24". If you buy cabinet grade ply it should be OK with a simple brace. If you make the doors out of the junk from the big box, it will warp.

And yes, you can laminate your own hollow core doors with peg board, sounds like a good idea. Regular HC doors have a honeycomb inside, but you could get by with a couple of X's. If you have a router there is no reason the edges should have to look ratty.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Exactly. You can run a vertical piece of 2x2 on the inside of the door (opening side) or a strip of 1/2" or 3/4" L-shaped steel stock and warping won't be an issue.

How big are the doors?

 

[rickb801]

For that industrial look on the doors take some 1x1/8 flat bar, or size and thickness of your choice, and put it around all the edges of the door. Doesn't have to be welded can just be butted because it is decorative. Prior to putting it on the doors drill 3/16 holes thru it. Mount on door and use as a template to drill holes thru the door. Get some square head bolts and nuts and install. Can also "distress" the flat bar if you want and also add a decorative finish such as rust or other decorative finishes.

 

[backafter20]

Wow. All that response after only one day. Why haven't I posted here before? Thanks! So I actually have more choices that I thought. Ply doors seem like they'd be durable, MDF seem like they'd be very heavy. My home-made sandwich doors would probably be light, but not sure how durable. Love the brace idea, and the metal trim idea. Suggestions on where to find metal at reasonable prices? HD and Lowe's pieces would really add up. Craigslist maybe?

 

[rickb801]

There should be a retail steel supplier in the Denver Area. Prices should be better than the big box stores and a much larger selection. Lengths will typically be 20 feet long but most will cut in half or cut to size for a fee.

 

[bad_idea]

look for a yard that sells used steel by the pound. limited to what they have on hand, but good bit cheaper than buying new.

 

[stingry]

On ply door I use a metal or wood brace on the inside of the leading edge. The hinge side stays straight due to the hinges which I place every 24". If you buy cabinet grade ply it should be OK with a simple brace. If you make the doors out of the junk from the big box, it will warp.

Exactly!!! It's hard to buy decent plywood anymore. If you buy good cabinet grade plywood that is straight as it comes off the pile, you should have no problem, especially if the doors are only 2' wide. Just put plenty of hinges to keep that side of the door straight. Personally I would not worry about bracing on the unhinged side.

Cheers
Steve

 

[csp]

Love the brace idea, and the metal trim idea. Suggestions on where to find metal at reasonable prices?

K&K Surplus near the flea market at I76 and 88th ave. They sell scrap as well as new steel.

C&M Iron near Hampden and Santa Fe is another place that sells scrap and new steel.

 

[Gary S]

Ply doors seem like they'd be durable, MDF seem like they'd be very heavy.

I agree with you. Pound for pound, plywood is better than particle board. I won't use particle board for anything when I can buy plywood for similar prices and get superior performance from it.

 

[icecactus]

I agree with you. Pound for pound, plywood is better than particle board. I won't use particle board for anything when I can buy plywood for similar prices and get superior performance from it.

The problem with plywood doors is they will warp. MDF when painted on both sides will not. MDF is also easier to get a nice smooth paint job imo.

I like to use plywood for carcass and MDF for drawer and doors.

 

[buening]

I like to use plywood for carcass and MDF for drawer and doors.

Exactly what I've done with my cabinets. If you are worried about a smooth finish on the carcass, one can do what I did and use brushable grain filler.