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Cabinet depth

l_bilyk

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Today I plan on building the boxes for some cabinets.

Problem is, the free wood that i received is only 10" wide. Do you think that 10" is not deep anough for garage cabinets?
 
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l_bilyk

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Wile1Coyote said:
Lower cabinets or uppers? 10" is pretty slim can you use some cross braces and use 2 planks per side?

Upper of course. 20" deep will be too big. I wanted something around 12"-14" ideally since I'll be putting up paint and oil up there.
 

MXtras

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I use 12" for top cabinets but honestly - I use the front area of each cabinet the most. The stuff that gets pushed to the back is very rarely used. I doubt a 10" cabinet would be much less effective than a 12" cabinet - especially if the material is free!

Scott
 

chet

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rip one of the boards in half (or thirds) and make the cabinets whatever depth you want. 10" isn't too bad but it will be a pain for bulkier items.
 

Wile1Coyote

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20" TOO DEEP? Mmmm Ok Mine are 24"s LOL And yes they are deep as hell but they hold a ton of stuff. For lowers I go 16"
 

hawkeye2

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my upper cabinets are 20" deep, I think they will work fine. My lower cabinets are exra depth 42" . I haven't loaded them up yet, maybe this weekend??? pictures at www.hawkeyeindustries.us
 

Paradise Ridge

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hawkeye2 said:
my upper cabinets are 20" deep, I think they will work fine. My lower cabinets are exra depth 42" . I haven't loaded them up yet, maybe this weekend??? pictures at www.hawkeyeindustries.us
Hawkeye,
NICE cabinets! I always try to build "stout x 2" but I think you've got it covered with that bench top!

The pockets above and on each side of your overhead on the exterior. Are those light mounts or some type of duct vent?

Scott
 
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l_bilyk

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Well I didn't end up making anything today. I didn't realize that my back wall doesn have any 2x4's on it. So I have to frame it up on thursday, and maybe do the cabinets on the weekend.


I think the stuff I have is 1/2" particle board. Is that too flimsy for 20" deep top cabinets?
 

sjsfire

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l_bilyk said:
Well I didn't end up making anything today. I didn't realize that my back wall doesn have any 2x4's on it. So I have to frame it up on thursday, and maybe do the cabinets on the weekend.

I hate to ask a dumb question but whats holding up your wall?:shocking:
 
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l_bilyk

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sjsfire said:
l_bilyk said:
Well I didn't end up making anything today. I didn't realize that my back wall doesn have any 2x4's on it. So I have to frame it up on thursday, and maybe do the cabinets on the weekend.

I hate to ask a dumb question but whats holding up your wall?:shocking:

cinder block
the whole house is brick except for this one outside wall that is the back of the garage
 
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Wile1Coyote

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Mmm The why not just anchor the cabinets to the Cinderblaock with (those little blue masonry screws whose name is escaping me right now) drill a pilot in the wall, put a back plate on the cabinet, or two one upper\one lower flush inside the cabinet and zip em in, will make the cabs strong!
 
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l_bilyk

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I wanted to drywall sometime in the future, and put outlets on that wall, as well as a line from the central vac to the blast cabinet
 

red caddy

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l_bilyk said:
I wanted to drywall sometime in the future, and put outlets on that wall, as well as a line from the central vac to the blast cabinet
If you run your blast cabinet exhuast to the central vac, you're gonna kill it quick. The fines that the filter can't stop, will eat the motor bearings. Very expensive lesson... RED
 
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l_bilyk

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red caddy said:
If you run your blast cabinet exhuast to the central vac, you're gonna kill it quick. The fines that the filter can't stop, will eat the motor bearings. Very expensive lesson... RED

Do'oh! But won't that burn out the shop vac too? :headscrat
 

Wile1Coyote

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YES but Shop vacs are easier to replace and or pick up really cheap at garage sales. They do make vacs specifically for Balst cabinets that have a better filtering system
 

Paradise Ridge

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Wile1Coyote said:
YES but Shop vacs are easier to replace and or pick up really cheap at garage sales. They do make vacs specifically for Balst cabinets that have a better filtering system

HD sells Shop Vac Hepa filters for about $10.00. I've had one for about 2 years and I blow it out before I blast. Shop-Vac hasn't died yet!

Scott
 

boiler7904

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Wile1Coyote said:
Mmm The why not just anchor the cabinets to the Cinderblaock with (those little blue masonry screws whose name is escaping me right now) drill a pilot in the wall, put a back plate on the cabinet, or two one upper\one lower flush inside the cabinet and zip em in, will make the cabs strong!

You're probably thinking of Tapcons.
 
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Wile1Coyote

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TAPCONS YES Thank You been bugging me all day and yeah I know bilyK I don't have one either, nor a blast cabinet yet. Someday!
 

sjsfire

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Daves 41 said:
I make mine 16 for the simple reason you can rip a sheet of plywood into 3 pieces 16 x 96


I agree with Daves 41. I'm getting ready to build some wall cabinets for my garage and if you cut 16inches you have no waste. Actually I cut just slightly under to figure in the 1/8 saw blade width. First two cuts would be 16 inches, third cut 3/8 under 16. Just something to think about. I'm going with 3/4 inch AC plywood. Should make strudy cabinets and I can get it at my local Menards for right at $30 a sheet.
 

DIGGER_DAVE

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Calgary AB Canada
l_bilyk said:
I think the stuff I have is 1/2" particle board. Is that too flimsy for 20" deep top cabinets?

A. 1/2" = TOO THIN
B. Particle board = NO STRENGTH! (without a LOT of extra bracing!)

Invest in 3/4" - 4' x 8'; plywood and cut into three 16" strips.
 
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l_bilyk

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Okay I found some 5/8 96"x12" shelving. The laminated stuff.

I am thinking about going 12"x28"x40" each cabinet

Is 40" OK? It's pretty wide. Standard kitchen is 32" i think. Will 20" doors kill the hinges?
 
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