Cabinet Doors - Suggestions on

[rown4au]

I am in the process of building cabinets for my workshop/garage and I am debating several different styles of door and was hoping I could get a few suggestions from the woodworkers here and/or those who have done this before.

The cabinets are frameless style cabinets with 3/4" hardwood plywood carcasses kreg screwed together and I have built slide outs into most of the cabinets.

I am considering doing a relatively simple rail and stile - panel style door using MDF for the rails and stiles and using plywood for the center panel. IS MDF suitable for this or will it be too soft and dent too easily?

I thought about using poplar but I am trying to avoid spending that much money on the lumber for the smaller cabinet doors as I have 24 of them to build.

I am also building one large cabinet as well that will have three large doors (circa 30" wide by 72" tall. I am guessing that I should spring for hardwood lumber for these doors to save weight and have more strength and rigidity but let me know if I am wrong on that assumption.

I have spent a lot of time already on this project and although this shop will be used I want it to look good as well. As the doors will be the most visible part of the project I don't want them to come out looking like they were thrown together and this is also a practice run before I build my wife a set of cabinets for the house.

thanks in advance for the help/advice.

I have already gound loads of great ideas in various threads on this site!

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

well as for the doors, maybe do the doors in MDF. Make a jig to rout a design in the door. I think running a 5 panel floating door with real wood may lead to warping if the garage has any moisture in it. this can lead to splitting later on in the rails and stiles If you do a 5 panel door, make sure the center panel is not solid wood. there is too much expansion with this panel and will push the door apart.

When you make the cabinets, most doors you buy at the home centers are on 3" increments base cabinets are 6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36, and 42 same for the uppers but the 42 is not available. It can be custom made and use 2, 21" doors. Door height is 30" same as the uppers. The base units use a 30" door with a 4 1/2 toe kick so upper doors and base doors interchange.

hope some of this helps out.

In my garage I am planning cabinets as well. The TV cabinet will be 48 wideand 30" tall, with 2, 24" doors the cabinets on each side will be 24" as well so the line of uppers on one wall will look like 5 24" cabinets. The TV cabinets is made from a new black scrap countertop. I edge banded the 5/8" thick top with white, laminated the bottom with white so you can't tell the TV is in there. The doors I am going to a used building store and buying up the doors I need. Iam going to build my own cabinets from 5/8" white malemine 4X8 sheets. The european 6 way hinges are usually 3" down from the top of the door and 3" up from the bottom. The 35mm hole is drilled 1/8" in from the edge.

let me know if you need any other info and I'll try and help.

I used to install cabinets for Home Dep*t contracted trough them.

Rob/HBT

 

[EdT]

If there's one nearby, you might want to talk to a place that makes doors and drawer fronts. They are pretty cost effective IMHO. For the small doors, I think routing them out of a piece of MDF makes more sense than building rail and stile door panels out of MDF. The door place can make single piece doors that look a lot like rail and stile panel doors. These are what is used on a lot of "cost effective" cabinets that you can see at the big box stores. The all white ones are usually MDF with white vinyl over the surface. BTW MDF take paint very well and machine great, but it makes ton of bad-tasting dust when you machine it. The big door are a bit more of a problem in that at the size you're planning and at 3/4" think they are going to be very difficult to keep flat and square over time. 3/4" thich rail and stile doors that big will rack and twist over time. I know this because I have some of similar aspect ratio in my kitchen( Maybe 20" x 50") and they sag and twist. Any chance that you could find a set of 6'8" interior doors and cut them down to fit the cabinet? The molded kind are pretty stable and pretty cost effective, but I'm not sure you could cut 4" off both ends and still have them look OK.

 

[blue dog]

Farm them out, i get doors made out of poplar for $15 sq ft, avoid mdf, they will not hold up, especially the big doors.

 

[rown4au]

well as for the doors, maybe do the doors in MDF. Make a jig to rout a design in the door. I think running a 5 panel floating door with real wood may lead to warping if the garage has any moisture in it. this can lead to splitting later on in the rails and stiles If you do a 5 panel door, make sure the center panel is not solid wood. there is too much expansion with this panel and will push the door apart.

When you make the cabinets, most doors you buy at the home centers are on 3" increments base cabinets are 6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36, and 42 same for the uppers but the 42 is not available. It can be custom made and use 2, 21" doors. Door height is 30" same as the uppers. The base units use a 30" door with a 4 1/2 toe kick so upper doors and base doors interchange.

hope some of this helps out.

In my garage I am planning cabinets as well. The TV cabinet will be 48 wideand 30" tall, with 2, 24" doors the cabinets on each side will be 24" as well so the line of uppers on one wall will look like 5 24" cabinets. The TV cabinets is made from a new black scrap countertop. I edge banded the 5/8" thick top with white, laminated the bottom with white so you can't tell the TV is in there. The doors I am going to a used building store and buying up the doors I need. Iam going to build my own cabinets from 5/8" white malemine 4X8 sheets. The european 6 way hinges are usually 3" down from the top of the door and 3" up from the bottom. The 35mm hole is drilled 1/8" in from the edge.

let me know if you need any other info and I'll try and help.

I used to install cabinets for Home Dep*t contracted trough them.

Rob/HBT

Thanks for the tips Rob;

One of the ideas I was thinking of routing MDF panels instead of getting into the whole rail and stile construction so that is definitely one of the options I am thinking of.

One of the reasons I was considering going with a plywood panel is I thought I read somewhere that plywood is more dimensionally stable and less likely to expand/contract unevenly. I was also came across "space balls" (foam expansion pellets http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003883/603/Space-Balls.aspx ) in a woodworking store once and I thought that might alleviate the problem.

I know fluctuations in humidity can be an issue in a garage but my shop is heated/cooled so its not likely to see less than 50 deg F in the winter or more than 85 deg F in the summer, and if it floods I will have bigger issues than the cabinets! How do you build cabinets for someplace like a bathroom where mositure is a much bigger issue?

thanks

 

[rown4au]

If there's one nearby, you might want to talk to a place that makes doors and drawer fronts. They are pretty cost effective IMHO. For the small doors, I think routing them out of a piece of MDF makes more sense than building rail and stile door panels out of MDF. The door place can make single piece doors that look a lot like rail and stile panel doors. These are what is used on a lot of "cost effective" cabinets that you can see at the big box stores. The all white ones are usually MDF with white vinyl over the surface. BTW MDF take paint very well and machine great, but it makes ton of bad-tasting dust when you machine it. The big door are a bit more of a problem in that at the size you're planning and at 3/4" think they are going to be very difficult to keep flat and square over time. 3/4" thich rail and stile doors that big will rack and twist over time. I know this because I have some of similar aspect ratio in my kitchen( Maybe 20" x 50") and they sag and twist. Any chance that you could find a set of 6'8" interior doors and cut them down to fit the cabinet? The molded kind are pretty stable and pretty cost effective, but I'm not sure you could cut 4" off both ends and still have them look OK.

I know that I probably could get someone to make the doors for me but I am enjoying doing it myself I just want to make sure it looks good when I finish! I am pretty willing to take the time to do it right even if it takes longer (famous last words). that said you do have me thinking about using prefab doors for the larger cabinet. I would need to do some looking at local home improvement places and see what is readily available. The beauty of designing my own cabinets is I can design the cabinet around the doors.

 

[dragginbalz]

I was contemplating making r & s MDF doors also. My suggestion is to make one door the way you want as a sample and check it out. I did and was surprised at how flimsy and easily the doors would break with the floating center panel (I used 1/4" pegboard for a sample). I think the rails were 2" or so. I did not feel they would be strong enough with the floating center panel, so I went with oak instead.

I would echo what was stated above and suggest the faux router bits like at MLCS.

Large
Diameter Carbide
Height Shank Size Price
#6480 3/4" 7/16" 1/4" $24.00
#1719 3/4" 7/16" 1/2" $20.00
#8780 3/4" 7/16" 1/2" $25.00

I completely understand about doing it yourself! Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[Brad54]

Have you thought about using clear plexiglass?
I made some clear plexi doors for a SteelCase 3-shelf office case I got, and it looks great. Chrome hinges and knobs, the clear doors let me see the books on the shelves, while keeping al the shop dust and grime out.

It's easy to work with, too. Just cut with a fine-blade saber saw, hand-file the edges smooth, then hit the edge with a butane torch. Holes drill easily, and if you want them hinged or slider-style doors, it's easy to do.

It also lets you quickly locate whatever is in your shop.

-Brad

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

you are welcome, that is what the site is for.

Dragginbalz has the idea I was thinking. My problem is this. If I build the door my self and the cost is lets say $30/a door with MDF, power, paint, time, special drillbit, and so on and the cost for used is the same but trying to find all that match maybe too hard. or buy new at $50 a door??????

So I know exactly what you are going through.

as for the bathroom with moisture, the cabinets are the same as kitchen ones and the doors as well. The moisture is not constant and disapates rather quickly, like the moisture on the mirror. A good coat of sealer then paint and the doors will be fine (if using MDF) I don't think moisture is such an issue for me anyhow cause where I live.

Rob/HBT

 

[rown4au]

you are welcome, that is what the site is for.

Dragginbalz has the idea I was thinking. My problem is this. If I build the door my self and the cost is lets say $30/a door with MDF, power, paint, time, special drillbit, and so on and the cost for used is the same but trying to find all that match maybe too hard. or buy new at $50 a door??????

So I know exactly what you are going through.

as for the bathroom with moisture, the cabinets are the same as kitchen ones and the doors as well. The moisture is not constant and disapates rather quickly, like the moisture on the mirror. A good coat of sealer then paint and the doors will be fine (if using MDF) I don't think moisture is such an issue for me anyhow cause where I live.

Rob/HBT

Well I can buy full sheets of 3/4" MDF for $27 each at lowe's locally and I have sit down and measure it all out but think I will get 9 doors out of each sheet, so the lumber is only $3 per door going the MDF route plus around $25 for the router bit so pretty reasonable overall. Cutting them out on the table saw and routing the doors should be pretty easy once I build a jig for it and set the router up. Checking online it looks like I would be looking at $40 -50 per door minimum to have a raised panel door made by someone, given I need 24 of them that's pretty expensive, so that's not really an option.

I also checked into plexiglass and it is also at least that much for that material and I would prefer to have something colored so most of the colored plexiglass is only 1/4" or less so it would mean building a door frame for that as well.

The mositure issue is a concern as I am just outside Houston and it is extremely humid here in the summertime. I keep the AC on in the shop at a low level (high temp) most of the summer to pull some of the mositure out of the air and keep the tools from rusting.

I plan to prime all the doors and then paint them with a couple of coats of paint on both sides so that should seal them pretty well irrespective of the climate.

I need to get some opinions on spray guns or HVLP systems for the painting stage but that's for another thread!

 

[Drewstang]

You could always find scrap pieces of diamond plate and make doors like mine:

 

[rown4au]

You could always find scrap pieces of diamond plate and make doors like mine:

Those look really nice but I don't think I will be able to find enough diamond plate for 24 doors at anything approaching a reasonable price.

Maybe I am wrong though where did you get yours?

Off topic a bit but if you drive a Marauder why the drewstang screen name?

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

I think I may go the router bit way. build my own cabinets out of 5/8 malamine edge band and build the doors. I have all the tools and lots of hinges but the router bit for the faux raised panel.

may even do a Ford Oval on the door too with a top mounted bearing "v" groove bit hmmmmm the ideas

I do like the checker plate idea too but same, trying to find enough for 3, 8 foot banks of doors maybe too pricey

Rob/HBT

 

[Drewstang]

Those look really nice but I don't think I will be able to find enough diamond plate for 24 doors at anything approaching a reasonable price.

Maybe I am wrong though where did you get yours?

Off topic a bit but if you drive a Marauder why the drewstang screen name?

You can find the diamond plate vynil on ebay and cover a piece of 1/4" plywood. My cabinets were custom made 3/4" plywood and the doors are made from the same. I bought all 12 cabinets for $700 on craigslist.

Finally, I've had the Drewstang name since 2001 on corral. I used to own a few Mustangs until I bought the Marauder in 2007. I'm going back into a Mustang this year come hell or high water.

 

[Kevin54]

You can find the diamond plate vynil on ebay and cover a piece of 1/4" plywood. My cabinets were custom made 3/4" plywood and the doors are made from the same. I bought all 12 cabinets for $700 on craigslist.

Finally, I've had the Drewstang name since 2001 on corral. I used to own a few Mustangs until I bought the Marauder in 2007. I'm going back into a Mustang this year come hell or high water.

Doing a quick search I ran across this which doesn't seem like too bad of a price for a yard of vinyl material that is 54" wide http://www.yourautotrim.com/dipltoma.html

Also check this out.... http://www.signspecialist.com/lettering/lettering.html For a few bucks you can get custom lettering made up anyway you want and can check to see what it looks like online.

This kind of gets my gears going a little once I can get back out to my garage

BTW... I only ran across these while doing a search and am in no way affiliated with either place but may be a customer before long

 

[MOPARINMYCAR]

here are some door I have made for a bedroom but you could do the same for your garage These are veneered MDF that have an oiled finish hand applied.