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Cabinet ideas for race trailer...

EBodiesRule

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Hey fellow Garage Junkies! I own an enclosed race trailer to haul my Cuda to and from the drag strip. I want to install cabinets in the front end, but don't want to spend an arm and a leg to get them. Any ideas from your experiences getting cabinets for your shop? They need to be fairly lightweight...and cheap!!
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kartracer55

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How much room do you have left over in front of the car in the trailer?


And Damn, that thing is NICE, What does it run?

Jim
 

krooser

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I had an 30" deep, 8' wide kitchen cabinet in my 40' trailer. It also had one 8' overhead cabinet.

Along the first 12' of the trailer, I also had 12X12" cabinets alont the top corner. I used this trailer to haul two classic cars.
 

stimpy

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In Our 28 footer we just went to maynards (menards ) and bought some kitchen cabinet bases and mounted them to some 2x4 bracing on the floor and tied them to the wall . they have to have some space to move around for the trailer flexes and it busted up one of the end units then we got a remenant counter top with a splashboard . and bolted it down with angleiron to the base units . we can't hang cabs as the ceiling is flexlite and the walls are aluminum skinned over aluminum studs . our total cost was 250 bucks and some of that was pizza and pop .
 

MXtras

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This isn't a car trailer and they are not all that lightweight, but they were pretty inexpensive and they do the job. Just an idea.

Scott
 

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BoostAddiction

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For a race trailer, go with aluminum cabinets. I've never seen wooden ones in a race trailer that didn't look shabby pretty soon- the trailer is a harsh environment.

Go with something good like Moduline - they probably aren't what you meant when you said you didn't want to spend a fortune, but why have something if it makes you wince every time you look at it?

Here's an example of what my trailer cabs look like:

886632_15_107.jpg


These are not moduline, but are typical of good quality cabinets.

-Will
 
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EBodiesRule

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kartracer55 said:
How much room do you have left over in front of the car in the trailer?


And Damn, that thing is NICE, What does it run?

Jim
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It's a 24' and I have plenty of room ahead of the door...probably four feet. Any ideas?

On an eighth mile track, the Cuda (plates call out BADFISH), runs in the low 6's at 120 mph which should be good for high 9's at 125+ in the quarter. Just got the bugs worked out of it so a trip to Brainerd International Raceway is in the offing this summer to see what a 1/4 mile is like...It's a blast to run.
 
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EBodiesRule

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MXtras said:
This isn't a car trailer and they are not all that lightweight, but they were pretty inexpensive and they do the job. Just an idea.

Scott

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Scott, what are your cabinets made of and where did you get them? They look good! Also, did you mount them on a round front trailer? How did you do that?

Greg
 
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EBodiesRule

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BoostAddiction said:
For a race trailer, go with aluminum cabinets. I've never seen wooden ones in a race trailer that didn't look shabby pretty soon- the trailer is a harsh environment.

Go with something good like Moduline - they probably aren't what you meant when you said you didn't want to spend a fortune, but why have something if it makes you wince every time you look at it?

Here's an example of what my trailer cabs look like:

886632_15_107.jpg


These are not moduline, but are typical of good quality cabinets.

-Will

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Will, what brand are your cabs? I have always liked the look of aluminum cabs, but the price they want for what is essentially a little welded square tubing and aluminum facing is ridiculous. Yours look fabulous.

Greg
 
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MXtras

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EBodiesRule said:
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Scott, what are your cabinets made of and where did you get them? They look good! Also, did you mount them on a round front trailer? How did you do that?

Greg

They are MDF and yes - it's a rounded front trailer. They came from either HD or Lowes - can't recall. I cut a cardboard template for the nose then used that to cut the countertop. Did the same for the ceiling but had to have that piece and a few filler strips laminated to match the countertop. A local laminating shop laminated the pieces to match for me while I waited and it was only like $35.

This mess is almost 5 years old and still looks great (to me). This trailer is used for MX racing and sees a lot of use - not to mention I clean it out with a pressure washer, so I don't know where the statements about not using wood came from. I agree that AL would be the ideal way, but it depends on how much $ you want to spend for a place to store your ****. The MDF is heavy, though - a drawback, for sure and something to consider.

Scott
 
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EBodiesRule

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MXtras said:
They are MDF and yes - it's a rounded front trailer. They came from either HD or Lowes - can't recall. I cut a cardboard template for the nose then used that to cut the countertop. Did the same for the ceiling but had to have that piece and a few filler strips laminated to match the countertop. A local laminating shop laminated the pieces to match for me while I waited and it was only like $35.

This mess is almost 5 years old and still looks great (to me). This trailer is used for MX racing and sees a lot of use - not to mention I clean it out with a pressure washer, so I don't know where the statements about not using wood came from. I agree that AL would be the ideal way, but it depends on how much $ you want to spend for a place to store your ****. The MDF is heavy, though - a drawback, for sure and something to consider.

Scott

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Scott,

Thanks for the reply. I am leaning more and more to your idea...how did you hand the overhead cabs when the ceiling AND the front wall are curved? Could you provide a couple more photos?? Send them to me via email, if you like. Thanks. Greg
 

MXtras

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I will snap a few more pics for you tonight - since this is your thread, I will post them in here for all to see if that's OK with you.

I believe they were cleated to the walls and the ceiling. I am going to be removing all of these in the next few weeks to re-do the inside of the trailer completely. I will probably put them back in, but I need to change the walls to revive the inside of the trailer. I will be using the trailer mainly as a showcase for my product, the MXporter, in the coming year.

I will have to review how exactly I did it - this was done quite a while ago. I will take a look and post tonight or tomorrow.

Also - search this site and CNCZONE.COM for MXtras - take a look at my workstations and my shop. If you need something custom, I can make anything you need or want - especially from Aluminum, steel or stainless. It won't be free, but it will be high quality and made to your liking and will be cheaper than 90% of the higher end stuff you see but of equal or better quality. I may be up in youor neck of the woods in August, by the way.....that's a ways off, but I thought I'd mention it!

Scott
 

BoostAddiction

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Will, what brand are your cabs? I have always liked the look of aluminum cabs, but the price they want for what is essentially a little welded square tubing and aluminum facing is ridiculous. Yours look fabulous.

Greg

Mine were actually made in house at ATC, who made my trailer. You can see more about the trailer and the interiors at this link .

I'm sure knowing MXtras work that his trailer is an exception to the generalization I made about wood in race trailers. But my experience is that most all the wooden cabs in race trailers I've been in (and I've seen plenty) have not looked very good over the long term. Perhaps that's a reflection on the effort made to maintain them, or maybe there are other reasons. But that's my experience, FWIW.

There are several manufacturers like moduline and C-tech, who make good trailer cabs. There are others that don't look like much, at least to my eyes.

Finally, as you mentioned, you can always just fab them up yourself. The sheet looks pretty thin, most of it is easy-to-work alu angle, and you can buy nice hardware. I've never seen this done, but I'm sure there are people on this board who could do a good job of it given the time and money. If I were starting over, I would consider just making my own if I were willing to trade the time for money.

I know I like mine, and I use my trailer a lot. Make sure you get shelves, and measure them to make sure you can store your small stuff in totes, etc. If you have a lot of small stuff like many cans of oil, you might consider the over-the-wheelwells cabinets- very thin, but lots of shelves.

Good luck!

-Will
 

kartracer55

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EBodiesRule said:
+++++

It's a 24' and I have plenty of room ahead of the door...probably four feet. Any ideas?

On an eighth mile track, the Cuda (plates call out BADFISH), runs in the low 6's at 120 mph which should be good for high 9's at 125+ in the quarter. Just got the bugs worked out of it so a trip to Brainerd International Raceway is in the offing this summer to see what a 1/4 mile is like...It's a blast to run.


Thats sick... 9 seconds? HAHAH Is it really street legal?


Jim
 

MXtras

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EBodies -

I snapped a bunch of pics but most came out worthless- they looked good in the LCD but loked like **** on the PC. So I have attached only two.

I believe I attached boards to the wall studs then attached the cabinets to those. I offset the ends of the boards so the laminated filler boards would end up flush. I did the same to the top of the top cabinets - I used the top filler board to secure the top of the cabinets to.

I usually keep a few helmets in one cabinet and the other has foul weather gear and snacks and stuff. Not all that much weight in the top cabs. The bottom cabs hold parts, oil, premix, plugs - just about everything other than gear, tools and the bikes.....

The counter top came from Lowes - it was an 8 footer that had a crushed corner, so I took it off their hands for something like $20 - much less than a 6 footer. Like I mentioned before, I trimmed a cardboard template to fit the curvature of not only the nose of the trailer, but the ceiling too - I believe they were both the same profile. I used the template to trim the counter top and the top filler board, then had the filler boards laminated to match.

I also added more positive acting latches to keep the doors closed during trailering. I haven't had any issues.

The one shot is difficult to understand - it is an underneath shot showing the filler boards that support the top cabinets. The outboard one is screwed to the wall studs, then a gap filler, then the cabinet was screwed in place from the inside of the cabinet.

Scott
 

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EBodiesRule

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kartracer55 said:
Thats sick... 9 seconds? HAHAH Is it really street legal?


Jim

Yup, and it does it on 93 octane (no joke)! It has working turn signals, emergency flashers, brake lights, headlights, etc. The only thing missing is the e-brake and windshield wipers. It's never been tubbed or cut up and I use XHD leaf springs with NO pinion snubber. Zero wheel hop and my 60 foot times are around 1.5 seconds. Just a great all around hot rod. Do I drive it on the street? Although I could, it is just too close to the "ragged edge". My crew chief keeps reminding me of the coat hanger principle - the more you flex it, the closer you come to breaking it! It's a race car, so that's where you will find it. Thanks for asking.
 
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EBodiesRule

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MXtras said:
EBodies -

I snapped a bunch of pics but most came out worthless- they looked good in the LCD but loked like **** on the PC. So I have attached only two.

I believe I attached boards to the wall studs then attached the cabinets to those. I offset the ends of the boards so the laminated filler boards would end up flush. I did the same to the top of the top cabinets - I used the top filler board to secure the top of the cabinets to.

I usually keep a few helmets in one cabinet and the other has foul weather gear and snacks and stuff. Not all that much weight in the top cabs. The bottom cabs hold parts, oil, premix, plugs - just about everything other than gear, tools and the bikes.....

The counter top came from Lowes - it was an 8 footer that had a crushed corner, so I took it off their hands for something like $20 - much less than a 6 footer. Like I mentioned before, I trimmed a cardboard template to fit the curvature of not only the nose of the trailer, but the ceiling too - I believe they were both the same profile. I used the template to trim the counter top and the top filler board, then had the filler boards laminated to match.

I also added more positive acting latches to keep the doors closed during trailering. I haven't had any issues.

The one shot is difficult to understand - it is an underneath shot showing the filler boards that support the top cabinets. The outboard one is screwed to the wall studs, then a gap filler, then the cabinet was screwed in place from the inside of the cabinet.

Scott
Scott,

Wow! They really look custom with the laminated filler panels. Thanks for the prompt response and the extra effort to get me this info. I am going to look into a similar solution this weekend. On a related note, do you notice any pulling at the fasteners in the cabs when the trailer shakes down the road? MDF can chip and crumble pretty quick. With the cabs tied so securely to the sidewalls acting as a rigid "strut" suspended between the two walls, it would seem to me that the cabs could begin to weaken from the flexing imposed on them. Any evidence of this?

BTW, what are the al pockets running down the walls?

Thanks. Greg
 

kartracer55

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EBodiesRule said:
Yup, and it does it on 93 octane (no joke)! It has working turn signals, emergency flashers, brake lights, headlights, etc. The only thing missing is the e-brake and windshield wipers. It's never been tubbed or cut up and I use XHD leaf springs with NO pinion snubber. Zero wheel hop and my 60 foot times are around 1.5 seconds. Just a great all around hot rod. Do I drive it on the street? Although I could, it is just too close to the "ragged edge". My crew chief keeps reminding me of the coat hanger principle - the more you flex it, the closer you come to breaking it! It's a race car, so that's where you will find it. Thanks for asking.


Damn impressive! My dads got a 68 olds 442 with a 455 dropped in, and it runs 11s which is still not bad in my book. It'd be awesome to see a thread with a few more pictures and info in the Free parking section. Your car is beautiful (and perfect material for HotrodsPump Gas Drags too lol) Good stuff!


Jim
 
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EBodiesRule

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kartracer55 said:
Damn impressive! My dads got a 68 olds 442 with a 455 dropped in, and it runs 11s which is still not bad in my book. It'd be awesome to see a thread with a few more pictures and info in the Free parking section. Your car is beautiful (and perfect material for HotrodsPump Gas Drags too lol) Good stuff!


Jim

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I posted some more pix in the Free Parking Section. Check 'em out.
 
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