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Cabinet Saw station build

BikerDad

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I'm going to be building a mobile station incorporating my 3hp SawStop PCS. The saw is pimped out nicely, with a Benchdog Cast Iron Router Table, Router lift, SawStop Sliding Table, and an Incra Fence. The cast iron wing that was replaced on the left side by the sliding table has migrated to the other side, where it joins the existing wing and the router table. yeah, there's a whole lot of cast iron out there on the right. Which is part of the reason for the build.

All told, the saw as currently configured likely weighs in around 500 lbs. I plan on enclosing the router, having typical "router table" drawers surrounding the router enclosure, and an additional cabinet under the extension wings, figure another 75-100 lbs when loaded. Finally, I'll be adding a drop-down outfeed table to the backside, for another 75-100 pounds.

The station will be built using welded steel, very much in the fashion of many of the welding tables and "steevo" style workbenches. The question I pose to the accumulated wisdom of GJ is this:

How heavy duty on the steel should I go? I'm considering 2"x 2" x 1/8" for the main components (if not almost everything), and some additional angle iron to create ledges for the saw itself to sit down in. Is the 2"x2"x1/8" overkill?

The longest frame components will be right around 72". While there are a lot of tablesaw stations out there, virtually all of them use contractor, jobsite or benchtop saws, so they don't really translate all that well. Actual structural component info on the very few built of steel using cabinet saws has been very hard to come by. (I'll be using the bottlejack w/ casters solution for raising and lowering for mobility purposes.)
 

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tarbellb

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I have built a lot of furniture, work stations, etc... out of 2x2x.060" (16g). Even some stuff out the pickled and oiled 18g (.0475") and been fine with spans up to 6', as well as counter levered 100+lbs 2' out.

This is with mitered corners and some **** joints typically.

I think you will find that 16g will be fine, 1/8" which is usually spec'd 11g (.119") will be heavy, and maybe overkill depending on # of verticals, long spans, etc...?

One thing you will really want to consider is a micro adjustable top for getting all your work surfaces flat ie no lips/seams to catch materials.

Sounds like a fun project. Nice setup btw, now go get it dusty.
 
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BikerDad

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One thing you will really want to consider is a micro adjustable top for getting all your work surfaces flat ie no lips/seams to catch materials.

Sounds like a fun project. Nice setup btw, now go get it dusty.

Micro-adjustment for leveling the extensions and the sliding table is in the plan, most definitely. One reason for taking this approach, rather than just the mobility kit it's using now, is variations in my floor height mean that I can't really move it around without the support legs of the extension dragging, or the supports for the sliding table catching/dragging. Or they're just dangling, not supporting anything. The station means everything will be supported on the station, always level, no droop. Happiness all around, that's the plan. :D

There's plenty of dust on it now, those pics are from just after I finished getting it assembled over a year ago. I've been looking forward to getting this done ever since.
 

bullnerd

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Do you have a wood floor in your shop? Is that what I see in the back round?

Nice bike.
 
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BikerDad

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Do you have a wood floor in your shop? Is that what I see in the back round?

Nice bike.

Yes, that's OSB on 1x sleepers. The OSB covers roughly 2/3 of the shop (aka "garage"). At the joints, the sleepers are 1x4, allowing both sheets of OSB to easily be screwed down. The sleepers float on the concrete.
 

tarmy

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View attachment 566267

I am not at my place...I will send you some photos next week...I built something very similar to what you are thinking...including the sliding table...

This photo shows something to think about...put big heavy duty casters...these are rated at 800 lbs each...had lesser on before...this fixed the moving problem...
 
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beakie

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Ontario, Canada
for now, leave it as it is

use it, make stuff, then worry about where/why/how you want any further additions.

and after all that $$ spent, what do you plan for dust collection?
I'd put more time/effort/$$ in DC before any other toys.
 

brianh

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Well you got it all now but if I had to do mobile moving stuff around I would not have that setup, I almost never need a fence that long. I do woodworking for a living nice equipment though. Work with your tools for for a while it will save a lot of unnecessary work money and time.

My cabinet saw is 5 years older than me, a delta unisaw, vintage 1959 still runs like a champ gets used just about every day.
 

TerryH

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Springdale, AR
Well you got it all now but if I had to do mobile moving stuff around I would not have that setup, I almost never need a fence that long. I do woodworking for a living nice equipment though. Work with your tools for for a while it will save a lot of unnecessary work money and time.

My cabinet saw is 5 years older than me, a delta unisaw, vintage 1959 still runs like a champ gets used just about every day.

Agree with Brian. That's a super nice setup but a lot of equipment to mobilize. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw with Exaktor sliding table and long extension table on the opposite side. Couldn't imagine moving it around.

BTW..gorgeous furniture Brian!!
 
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BikerDad

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If I had my druthers, I wouldn't mobilize it. However, my setup requires it. The orientation in the pics was simply for assembly, and is utterly impractical for actual use. As far as using it goes, it is been in use for the last year. Most of a 9' Roubo workbench, a bed, and an assortment of other projects have been across the saw. That's how I know I need it mobile, and that the current mobility solution (SawStop mobile base) is impractical. I realize that I'll rarely need that much fence, although y'all need to keep in mind that the fence rails for an Incra are by necessity longer than a "normal" fence.

As far as DC goes, I've got a Delta DC, it's simply not hooked up in the pics. At some future point (likely next year) I'll be upgrading to a cyclone.
 
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BikerDad

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View attachment 566267

I am not at my place...I will send you some photos next week...I built something very similar to what you are thinking...including the sliding table...

This photo shows something to think about...put big heavy duty casters...these are rated at 800 lbs each...had lesser on before...this fixed the moving problem...

Thanks, I look forward to your pics.
 
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tarbellb

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I would go with 1.5" sq 14g.

I see why you would want the whole system on one set of wheels.
 

nutjob

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NE, PA
Here is a pic of my setup. Delta contractor saw with 50" fence. On the back I have a fold up extension table. I do have to crawl under the extension table to hook up the motor each time but that's the price to pay to get 10lbs of **** in 5lb bucket... Everything needs to be on wheels.

The frame is 1 1/2", the casters are 4" and it rolls around OK. I use the lock on the front casters and it does not move around in use. 6 casters really helps. The drawers hold all the extras and keeps them handy to the saw.

And the best part since its a large horizontal surface you can pile junk on it!

Kevin
 

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strength_and_power

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Use the 2x2 for the main structure and smaller tubing or angle iron where less weight is being supported. Get some high quality casters with a decent wheel diameter so you don't get hung up on floor debris. Floor locks would be a good choice instead of a bottle
Jack. Casters of Dallas is a great source
 
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BikerDad

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Use the 2x2 for the main structure and smaller tubing or angle iron where less weight is being supported. Get some high quality casters with a decent wheel diameter so you don't get hung up on floor debris. Floor locks would be a good choice instead of a bottle
Jack. Casters of Dallas is a great source

I've considered using floor locks, especially since I've got about a half dozen of 'em taking up space. My question on them is how much can they lift, and how difficult is it to actually operate them. Their little "kick plates" are pretty small, and don't seem to provide a lot of room for leverage. Plus there's the matter of they can only be operated one at a time, so the whole contraption will be teetering on 1 or 3 casters and 3 or 1 floor lock until I can get to the next floor lock. I suppose I should ask my brother, source of said floor locks - [oddly enough, from a pepperoni plant in the Dallas area!]) about the teetering and ease of use considerations. The used the floor locks in the plant on a lot of the machinery, made raising 'em for cleaning underneath easier.
 

tarmy

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Thanks. What exactly is the construction? Also, do you simply move it out into location, lock the casters and go to work, or do you have a method of resting it on "feet"?

View attachment 567601

Here is a detail shot of some very important things to consider...

I essentially built a frame around the store bought base mobile unit...I used 1/4" angle iron to surround the frame...beefed that up with some cross members under the main weight of the cast iron base.

Second thing is get the casters first...so you can design the carrier plates for the caster base...and don't be cheap on the castors...buy good quality 5 " diameter castors with locks...

I can easily wheel this around the shop...weighs about 1/2 ton...cast iron surface plus all the tools and features...

And yes...pull it out, plug it in, connect the dust collection hose...and working...mayde 1-2 minutes max...

I have all my shop tools on wheels...only way to do it...
 
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