Cable Ties / Zip Ties

[Wamsutta]

Which brand is the best?

I have to replace inner tie rods this week and I'm going to have to cut the metal band holding the bellows/boots on. Going to have to replace it with a zip tie because there's no room to get steel band crimpers up in there while the steering rack is on the car. Are there any U.S.A. made zip ties?

 

[seanb02]

Hose clamp possibly if it isn't too wide. If that won't work then use wire and twist it on there tight. Plastic zip tie will not get tight enough or hold up long term, first time you put grease in those tie rod ends it will push the boot right off with a zip tie. That is assuming it has a grease fitting, being an older Buick it might.

Wait, are we talking about tie rod ends, or the boots on the inner ends of the rack and pinion system? You lost me on that one.

Make your Snap-on wrench "dance on your fingertips" and pop that rack and pinion off and do it the right way?

 

[techieman33]

Project farm did a test

 

[Wamsutta]

Wait, are we talking about tie rod ends, or the boots on the inner ends of the rack and pinion system? You lost me on that one.

Make your Snap-on wrench "dance on your fingertips" and pop that rack and pinion off and do it the right way?

https://www.rockauto.com/info/358/36R0395_Primary__ra_p.jpg

The boots on the steering rack. I have to remove them in order to get the special wrench on there to unthread the inner tie rods from whatever it is they screw into.

To pull the rack off I'd have to drop the engine cradle; also referred to as the subframe.

By the way, the steering rack boots don't hold any grease inside do they?

 

[Rabid Badger]

These might do the trick:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-stainless-steel-cable-ties-25-pk-60330.html

 

[seanb02]

Should be fine with hose clamps then. Wouldn't trust a zip tie to hold a boot tight enough. Would have to see the car to understand what sort of special wrench is needed to get in there though.

Have you thought about taking it to a mechanic? Since it sounds like you haven't even looked under there yet and already know you need specialized tools and are posting threads on what impact to get and whatnot maybe it is a good time to let a professional handle it and you can do more research for next time around and get your tool selection built up.

 

[Wamsutta]

I've already taken the car to a frame and wheel specialist. Front wheels are wiggling at the 9 and 3. Specialist advised replacing the inner and outer tie rods; that's where I come in. I'm a talented parts changer but no troubleshooter.

 

[Marctrees]

AFAIK the absolute best ties - Thomas and Betts Ty-rap - Original style w the SS locking tooth, NOT the lower line one w/o metal tooth.

Nylon, available in "Natural? or Black for UV resistance.

Marc

 

[Wamsutta]

I'll be getting black to match the boots and look more professional.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Nylon zip ties are not suitable for this application. You want stainless steel.

 

[David0858]

You can get them in all different strengths. You should be able to get some more than strong enough for what you need to do. I've got them in different strengths from Amazon.

 

[Cheepbeer]

You can buy stainless steel zip ties.

 

[rlitman]

AFAIK the absolute best ties - Thomas and Betts Ty-rap - Original style w the SS locking tooth, NOT the lower line one w/o metal tooth.

Nylon, available in "Natural? or Black for UV resistance.

Marc

T&B Ty-rap certainly has the best nylon ties out there. Their nylon formulation has a magical property of not seeming to get brittle over decades of use, unlike every other tie I've seen.

They started the business of zip ties, and it all started with the metal tooth. But the plastic locking versions actually hold more tension.

Nylon zip ties are not suitable for this application. You want stainless steel.

Well, yes, and no. Yes, you want a stainless steel band, but no, a stainless steel zip tie is a bad idea. I use stainless zip ties in low tension where they will see temperatures that would damage a plastic tie. But their locking mechanisms are pretty awful and slip at hardly any tension. They just won't hold a boot.

Back to the OP, don't tell me there's no room for steel band crimpers. Just get side crimping ones:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037QFNJM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Mr_B]

I seen a lot of rack boots done with ties nylon and stainless and both last if done well and decent ties .
With stainless ones you can bend end back over the lock tab so they never slip .

I even seen large zip ties on cv boots and been surprised to see still on if get see car in again .

Stainless steel would be my choice in tight access scenario as if tensioned well and end bent back over tab they on for life of boot and neat job .

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Any standard black zip tie will do. Pull it taught with pliers for a sung fit, cut off the extra. All it's doing is keeping the boot from falling off/over then lip on the rack itself. Put a light coat of grease under the narrow part of the boot where it touches the inner tie rod. This way the clamp will not need to be loosened during the alignment.

Pop out the outer tie rod, cut off the inner behind the jam nut. Remove clamp on inner, cut metal tie around rack, slide off boot, it will be kind of tight around the inner. Touch of blue lock-tite on the rack/inner tie rod thread interface. Grease or oil on the threads for the inner to outer interface, and under the jam nut. Do one side at a time, turn the wheel to extend the rack outward when removing the inner for access. Put you boot on in the center position so it's not stretched or compressed while securing it.

 

[driz]

Go to auto zone and buy a proper replacement. Also get one of their installation tools under that tool share program they have. You buy it then bring it back. It’s not the greatest of those tools and not as easy to use as the top tier ones but it’s free and still works .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[bwringer]

AFAIK the absolute best ties - Thomas and Betts Ty-rap - Original style w the SS locking tooth, NOT the lower line one w/o metal tooth.

Nylon, available in "Natural? or Black for UV resistance.

Marc

Agreed. Ty-Rap cable ties are on a whole higher level.


Whether they're appropriate for this application, I dunno.

 

[bonneyman]

JT Industries. Use them on A/C repairs for 20 years. Great for outdoor use, highly UV resistant.
Never used them as the OP is asking, though I've secured wire bundles under the hood with no issues.

http://www.jt-industries.com/cable-ties.html

 

[Vvmvbb]

I'd probably spec a Tefzel zip tie if you still want to use a zip tie.

 

[eyeball]

Have you thought about taking it to a mechanic? Since it sounds like you haven't even looked under there yet and already know you need specialized tools and are posting threads on what impact to get and whatnot maybe it is a good time to let a professional handle it and you can do more research for next time around and get your tool selection built up.

I completely disagree... the perfect time to buy tools is when you need them. If saved labor costs is going to help pay for them, that’s icing on the cake.

If the OP has the desire to do the job himself, maybe save a few bucks along the way and have the satisfaction of a job well done I think NOW is the time to do it.

 

[Bad Habit]

Just do a couple of wraps with bailing wire and twist tight, cut off and enjoy. No reason to cranial *********** this...

 

[fasteddie]

AFAIK the absolute best ties - Thomas and Betts Ty-rap - Original style w the SS locking tooth, NOT the lower line one w/o metal tooth.

Nylon, available in "Natural? or Black for UV resistance.

Marc

Many years ago, a local dollar store was selling these for $1 a pack. He must have got them at a surplus auction. From the baby size up to 18" with and without screw loops, same price. I bought dozens of packs. Sold many on ebay at 1000% or more markup. I still hoard a sizable stash and only use them for "special occasions".

 

[matt_i]

The Panduit 6I size is pretty remarkable, its a large, like 1/2" wide and 1/16"-ish thick.

Ive had good luck with Panduit. Not made in the USA, I think its central america or the caribbean last I checked.

I threw out all "natural" white colored tie wraps some years back and only stock the UV-black. The natural ones I had (probably el cheapo from long ago) got brittle just sitting in a toolbox drawer....

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Just do a couple of wraps with bailing wire and twist tight, cut off and enjoy. No reason to cranial *********** this...

Some manufacturers used a similar method from the factory.

 

[Elsinore13]

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/Item...MIiIKI--Tp4wIVjZ-fCh0glAOnEAQYAiABEgJZoPD_BwE

 

[MikeF2316]

https://www.rockauto.com/info/358/36R0395_Primary__ra_p.jpg

The boots on the steering rack. I have to remove them in order to get the special wrench on there to unthread the inner tie rods from whatever it is they screw into.

To pull the rack off I'd have to drop the engine cradle; also referred to as the subframe.

By the way, the steering rack boots don't hold any grease inside do they?

Steering rack boots don't have large amounts of grease inside them like a CV boot, but there is some special grease to lube the rack where it slides through the guide bushing on the passenger side, and some on the driver's side to lube where a spring and piston hold the rack against the pinion gear, and to lube the gear teeth.

Some cars come from the factory with plastic ties holding the boots on.

 

[Jason280]

These might do the trick:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-stainless-steel-cable-ties-25-pk-60330.html

Interesting, I didn't know such a thing existed!

eta: Just ordered a 100x pack off eBay for $13 delivered.

 

[rlitman]

The Panduit 6I size is pretty remarkable, its a large, like 1/2" wide and 1/16"-ish thick.

Ive had good luck with Panduit. Not made in the USA, I think its central america or the caribbean last I checked.

I threw out all "natural" white colored tie wraps some years back and only stock the UV-black. The natural ones I had (probably el cheapo from long ago) got brittle just sitting in a toolbox drawer....

Probably because they were cheap ****. I've got some old T&B TyRap natural straps that have a threaded metal insert in the heads for bolting them down. They've got to be 40+ years old, and are at least as supple as anything new on the shelf.

The natural ones do go bad when exposed to UV light, but otherwise, there's nothing especially different.