Calling structural engineers - Is this i-beam for the garage going to work?

[boatnorah]

I'm looking to build a basic 26x40 metal building with 12ft walls 4/12 pitch all on the cheap by doing all the work myself.

I completely understand the engineering aspect of this next part is bass ackwards but I have a handle on a bunch of new dirt cheap I beam through a friend so I'd like to use it if possible.

The I beam in question is 2x6 .114" wall.

It's on the thin side but I'm thinking 5 "A" frames, welded flanges and bolted together ends, gussetted 2ft from the peak. 5 frames will give all purlins and cross bracing a 10ft span. (2x4 14 gauge cee purlins on 4ft centers)

This is in contrast to a kit that supplies 3 I beam frames resulting in 20ft spans and more expensive (larger) purlins. I'd be saving myself around $7k using the free stuff but I also don't want a dangerously flimsy building. So I'm asking, will the 2x6 I beam in the above configuration be sufficient?

I should also mention I'm in the south and don't see snow above a couple inches. We get thunderstorms a couple times per year that bring 70mph winds.
Also rural so there's no zoning or building/code enforcement.

any insight would be appreciated!

 

[Uncle murph]

I'm looking to build a basic 26x40 metal building with 12ft walls 4/12 pitch all on the cheap by doing all the work myself.

I completely understand the engineering aspect of this next part is bass ackwards but I have a handle on a bunch of new dirt cheap I beam through a friend so I'd like to use it if possible.

The I beam in question is 2x6 .114" wall.

It's on the thin side but I'm thinking 5 "A" frames, welded flanges and bolted together ends, gussetted 2ft from the peak. 5 frames will give all purlins and cross bracing a 10ft span. (2x4 14 gauge cee purlins on 4ft centers)

This is in contrast to a kit that supplies 3 I beam frames resulting in 20ft spans and more expensive (larger) purlins. I'd be saving myself around $7k using the free stuff but I also don't want a dangerously flimsy building. So I'm asking, will the 2x6 I beam in the above configuration be sufficient?

I should also mention I'm in the south and don't see snow above a couple inches. We get thunderstorms a couple times per year that bring 70mph winds.
Also rural so there's no zoning or building/code enforcement.

any insight would be appreciated!

Way to vague,every situation is different,call a engineer or spend the money for a engineered beam.

 

[WisJim]

Need lots more details on the I-beam to even guess.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd be saving myself around $7k using the free stuff

Saving 7k over buying the same stuff you have or getting the right size material? If the latter, you know your answer.

Isn't that a M6x4.4 beam? That's tiny

 

[gsmith22]

crazy tiny shapes - they are basically good for nothing which is why you can get them "dirt cheap". you will spend more engineering them then the material is worth. start over

 

[dcg9381]

So I'm asking, will the 2x6 I beam in the above configuration be sufficient?

The guys (engineers - usually PE's) that actually have the software to perhaps do this load calculation, assuming they could get the specifics for those particular I beams.. By the time they draw it up and do the load calcs, you're going to be out several thousand dollars... Most of them won't do that - too much to risk - They send you "this is how you build it" using known building designs and steel.

I don't understand the cross sectional drawing of what you're describing.. Draw that up and you might get better SWAGs here, but not going to get a structural engineer to give you a real answer, I'm afraid...

I'm with others, handle that structure. Wanna shop for budget metal - that's around... You buddy doesn't have it, but shop long enough and you can probably find the correct I-beams in the right size. These buildings do get torn down.

 

[NUTTSGT]

So you're planning on using these to build the frame of the building ? Wall and trusses/rafters ?

 

[boatnorah]

I appreciate everyone's feedback. It sounds like it's a bad idea because they're too thin and not worth the hassle.
Likely it'll work but not with a good safety margin. I think I knew that though, I guess I was just hoping for some different answers but I get it. I'll be looking elsewhere for better I beams.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Remember the old saying, it's sounds like a deal that's too good to be true, it probably is.


Granted that stuff might be fine to build stuff like a small barn, some shelving or something similar.

 

[jkuro]

As I have said before, go to your local steel supplier. They usually have an engineer on staff to help in sizing the correct size beam. Most don't charge for this service, if they do, it would be minimal. It's time well spent.

 

[gsmith22]

Likely it'll work but not with a good safety margin.

I'll help you get over the hump here - they won't work.

 

[banjopete]

I had engineered drawings done for my garage roof change that I did. Totally worth the peace of mind, think it cost me ~$1k CAD at the time and they answered a lot of my dumb diy questions to follow-up. 10/10 would do it the exact same way in the future.

 

[jubilee]

Are you in oil field country?
Used tubing and drill pipe can put up economical sturdy building.

 

[rancherbill]

...any insight would be appreciated!

Honestly and politely, you need a much better plan than that. If you are going to be using 'non-standard' materials it will raise questions with any competent inspector. Get a qualified person in your area that is familiar with your local codes to do a design.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Are you in oil field country?
Used tubing and drill pipe can put up economical sturdy building.

Talking to a friend in the biz....it's hard for them to get rid of that used drill pipe and a lot of their other equipment because it ends up with radioactive pipe scale. The big scrap yards around here won't touch it.

https://www.epa.gov/radtown/radioactive-waste-material-oil-and-gas-drilling if you are interested.

 

[dcg9381]

Are you in oil field country?
Used tubing and drill pipe can put up economical sturdy building.

Sure. But probably not an engineer-stamped "study building". Going price here is $80 a stick apparently. I don't doubt that you could build something stronger than those tube-steel structures, but the issue here is apparently a stamp is needed... That usually means you have to go main-stream.

Talking to a friend in the biz....it's hard for them to get rid of that used drill pipe and a lot of their other equipment because it ends up with radioactive pipe scale. The big scrap yards around here won't touch it.
https://www.epa.gov/radtown/radioactive-waste-material-oil-and-gas-drilling if you are interested.

I didn't know that. It's used as a common fencing material around here for "rural" fencing. I've seen it used in landscaping..

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I didn't know that. It's used as a common fencing material around here for "rural" fencing. I've seen it used in landscaping..

I'm left with the impression that it matters where the drill pipe was used. It's quite possible that many oil wells are in areas where this is not an issue. It seems to be an issue around here though.

I would think the biggest hazard would be if someone disturbed the pipe scale....like grinding it off prior to welding or painting....and inhaled any of the dust.

 

[bb29510]

just buy a pre mfg building in the size you want

 

[dcg9381]

I would think the biggest hazard would be if someone disturbed the pipe scale....like grinding it off prior to welding or painting....and inhaled any of the dust.

When I've used it, I'm notching, griding and welding...

 

[dcg9381]

just buy a pre mfg building in the size you want

One that comes with a stamp. Here that's usually bolt-up with red iron. I dunno about tube steel. The the original intention of the OP was to save a few bucks.. Saving a few bucks may be incompatible with "engineered stamp".

 

[bb29510]

20 feet for cee purlin is nothing, mine is 32'

 

[cannuck]

I appreciate everyone's feedback. It sounds like it's a bad idea because they're too thin and not worth the hassle.
Likely it'll work but not with a good safety margin. I think I knew that though, I guess I was just hoping for some different answers but I get it. I'll be looking elsewhere for better I beams.

Too thin for what?

You haven't provided enough information to assess what you are trying to do. To start with: there is no 6" I beam with 0.114" dimension. If it is "S" beam it will have tapered flanges and
"W" beam flanges will be flat. Go to www.engineeringtoolbox.com to see standard beam tables.

If you are in a genuine DIY design/fab with no inspection I would not hesitate to do a truss using what you can get for free. at 4 in 12 a 26 span is a very deep truss and I could do your loading with 16 Ga tubing, never mind I beams for cap strips. We have 54' clear span arches in tension fabric structures that are 2' trusses using 2 3/8" 16 ga. for cap strips - and those are engineered structures.

Don't walk away from your 5 truss solution until you draw it up and do the calculations. You will be surprised at how easily you can carry your kind of loads. If you can't do the analysis, find an engineering student who can throw your drawings into Solidworks to do FEA - all of course off the books since students can stamp diddly squat except to mail an envelope.