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cam lock connectors

kaffine

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Henderson, NV
Does anyone have experience with cam lock connectors?

I would like to get my welder wired up but it pulls 90amps at 240V. Not many connector options I can find for those power levels. Only connectors I have used at those power level are pin and sleeve but they are expensive. The cam locks are much lower cost but I've never dealt with them.

Looks like I could use either series 15 or 16. From what I can tell series 16 is more common although not sure if it really matters for home use.

Only issues I see with using the cam locks is that instead of a single cable I will have 4 wires as the extension cord. So I will need a disconnect at the connectors to turn power off when connecting/disconnecting which I have to do with most pin and sleeve as well.

Any reason why I can't or shouldn't use Cam lock connectors for this? Any better options I don't know about?

I would eventually like to use the same setup for my table saw but I don't see a HP rating on the cam locks. Table saw has a 10hp main motor and 2hp of aux motors.

What options are there for wires? Looking at it most of the pre-assembled cables seem to use Type SC cord looks like Type W would work as well. Not sure if there are any other options.
 
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offroadsteve

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Apr 28, 2011
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Hampton, VA
Agreed with the guys above, at work anything 40-200 amps is pin and sleeve, anything over that is individual conductors with can locks, but you are talking 350 mcm cable or bigger at that point. Not stuff that is affordable for homeowners.

The affordable solution for a home shop is hard wiring with fused or non-fused disconnects.


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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
A 10hp/2HP table saw?

Why not hardwire it? Its not portable so why do you need it cord and plug connected?

Is this 3 phase or single phase?
 

Fasthotrod

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Dec 14, 2015
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Oklahoma
If money is no object, then there are a lot of options out there. Did you have a budget in mind?

Here's a 100A box with a disconnect and Cam Lock connectors all in one:

https://www.unionconnector.com/product/outdoor-company-switch-series-16-cam-lok-receptacle-100-amp

Company_Switch_CSC1010CL3R.jpg


200A generator connection box:

http://intersectinc.com/200-amp

Multiple options available:

https://www.psicontrolsolutions.com/custom_product/breaker-cam-lok-outlet-tap-box/

Hope this helps.

Mark
 
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kaffine

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Henderson, NV
Thanks. Those pin and sleeve connectors on ebay are much more reasonably priced than the ones I have been looking at.

Can't hardwire as they get moved around the shop. I weld outside as the floor in the shop can't handle hot metal. The table saw while not portable with the mobile base is fairly easy to move around the shop. I don't have the room to leave it setup all the time.
 
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sberry

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Brethren, Michigan
You still need to connect it, why disconnect the thing, just hang the cord up, unwind it to move machine. Even some welding lead might be cheaper than rigging up the input.
Only reason I would be using some exotic connector would be cause I absolutely had to and most likely cause someone else was paying for it or found them for free.
 
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kaffine

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I don't really have a set budget I am trying to keep the costs down as much as possible.

Those company switches are nice a bit expensive.

I started out looking at pin and sleeve connectors at around $700 each. I came across the cam lock connectors that are $85 for a set but have never used them. The pin and sleeve connectors linked above on ebay are only $120 a connector which is much more reasonable.
 

Norcal

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I don't really have a set budget I am trying to keep the costs down as much as possible.

Those company switches are nice a bit expensive.

I started out looking at pin and sleeve connectors at around $700 each. I came across the cam lock connectors that are $85 for a set but have never used them. The pin and sleeve connectors linked above on ebay are only $120 a connector which is much more reasonable.

If pin and sleeve connectors are going to be used I like the Hubbell IEC style they are not as goofy a design as the European manufactured ones. Hard wiring it is going to be the most cost effective way to hook it up.
 

wyliesdiesels

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I don't really have a set budget I am trying to keep the costs down as much as possible.

Those company switches are nice a bit expensive.

I started out looking at pin and sleeve connectors at around $700 each. I came across the cam lock connectors that are $85 for a set but have never used them. The pin and sleeve connectors linked above on ebay are only $120 a connector which is much more reasonable.

Do you have 3 phase or single phase service?
 
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kaffine

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Single phase service 240V. For the table saw I have a rotary converter not sure if it is going to get fixed mounted or if it will be mounted to the table saw yet.

I don't want to try moving the equipment around with it hard wired, then either I need to suspend the cable from the ceiling/wall or it will be a trip hazard. Currently I have been hard wiring it when I need to use it and disconnecting it when I move it. It isn't a huge issue for the once or twice a year I have gotten to use it, however I am hoping to get to use it more often.

I saw the theater lighting connectors but the ones I saw are only 3 wire, I'm fairly certain the welder requires a neutral (need to check maybe they put a step down transformer in it).
 

Barnabas

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Nov 24, 2013
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Raleigh, NC
We use the number 16 cam locks in the entertainment industry to connect large sound systems and stage lighting gear.

It is important to connect the ground first, then the neutral, then the other colors. Disconnect in the reverse.

Some facilities and some portable lighting dimmer racks will switch the gender on the ground and neutral connectors. I carry "turn arounds" to use in those situations.

The cam locks can handle a lot of power, but are certainly slower to connect and disconnect than a single connector. If you will do this often, then a single connector makes sense.

If safety is a concern, the cam locks supplying the power can be considered unsafe. It is easy to stick your fingers in the holes. An option is to get the kind that have a hinged flap over each one. That is still not completely safe. Better is the company switch box like Fasthotrod mentioned. The better ones have a switch on the door that disconnects the power if the door is opened.
 

jeffmoss26

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Cleveland, Ohio
I have used 3 phase pin and sleeve as well as cam locks when I did lighting and sound at school.
Not cheap but when you need it, you need it. Barnabas said it best.
 
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