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Camper power

sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
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123
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Clay, NY
I need to run a 30amp (110v) outlet 125' from the panel, underground direct burial. Any help on wire size is appreciated.
 
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Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
10 gauge copper. Your RV will just about never need anywhere near 30 amps but that is standard so 10 gauge, 30 amp, and the proper RV plug. I am about to install a couple of them myself inside the shop.
 
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sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
Messages
123
Location
Clay, NY
10 gauge copper. Your RV will just about never need anywhere near 30 amps but that is standard so 10 gauge, 30 amp, and the proper RV plug. I am about to install a couple of them myself inside the shop.

Even with A/C, Electric hot water, fridge, and microwave?
 

bjmac

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Nov 4, 2012
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Location
NE Washington
I am 80' from panel with my 30 amp RV outlet. Using #10 copper. 32' Cougar TT Never had a problem in three years. Use everything throughout the "camping year" April-Oct
 

Sureshot

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Jan 3, 2011
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Bridge Creek, OK
Consider going to 50 amp for the future. Not sure what the extra cost would be but even if you have the wire for it the breaker and plug upgrade would be minor.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
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Modesto, CA
#10cu
Some might say bump up to #8 because of the distance.

Yup, i got #8 cu doing the VD calcs by hand. Of course, he may never need 30a but if he does put a good size load on that circuit using #10 cu wire, he WILL have a high amount of voltage drop- 9.3volts or 7.8%. The A/C compressor in his RV may not like this. The NEC recommends 5% VD for branch circuits, which u already know!
 
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sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
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Clay, NY
Thanks Wylesdiesels, I was thinking #8 as well just wasn't sure. Now I have to find some 8/2 direct burial.
 

Highbeam

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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
Even with A/C, Electric hot water, fridge, and microwave?

If you try and run everything at once, and want to be set up to do that regularly, then you may trip the inlet 30 amp breaker at the trailer's panel. The fridge is like 150 watts but the others are big ones.

No sense in a 50 amp connection since the trailer is limited by it's inlet. I believe, but not certain, that the 50 amp RVs are 240 volt circuits. You most commonly see 50 amp connections on big class A motorhomes with dual ac units and dryers.
 

Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
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If you try and run everything at once, and want to be set up to do that regularly, then you may trip the inlet 30 amp breaker at the trailer's panel. The fridge is like 150 watts but the others are big ones.

No sense in a 50 amp connection since the trailer is limited by it's inlet. I believe, but not certain, that the 50 amp RVs are 240 volt circuits. You most commonly see 50 amp connections on big class A motorhomes with dual ac units and dryers.

The 50A RV receptacles are 120/240V but the RV's loads are 120V only, if they were any 240V loads the users could not use the 50A to 30A adapters.
 

Speedy Petey

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NY State
No sense in a 50 amp connection since the trailer is limited by it's inlet. I believe, but not certain, that the 50 amp RVs are 240 volt circuits. You most commonly see 50 amp connections on big class A motorhomes with dual ac units and dryers.
Like Norcal says, a 50A RV circuit is 120/240V, 4-wire.
A 30A RV circuit is 120V.

I've seen 50A circuits on 5th wheels and bigger travel trailers also.
 
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sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
Messages
123
Location
Clay, NY
30 amp has been plenty in the past, I was just worried about voltage drop over that distance. As Wylie pointed out, the A/C compressor wouldn't like it. I really don't want to burn out the motor prematurely.

Thanks to everyone for all the help, I appreciate all of it. Now if anyone knows how to deal with red squirrels I'm all ears. :shoot5::shoot5:
 
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Jagmandave

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Overland Park, Ks.
When I have a wire question I go to my local electrical supplier, those guys know what's what when it comes to that stuff, if you don't trust the kid on the counter ask to see one of the inside sales guys, he'll know.....their stuff is also considerably cheaper than Home Depot and such.

As for red squirrels, are they getting into your attic? if so, you have to get up there and shoot the little buggers, then patch the hole good. I used metal flashing under the wood so they couldn't tear thru again, not that they didn't try!

My pellet gun took care of the ones that tried to get back in, since then I haven't had a problem.
 
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sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
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123
Location
Clay, NY
When I have a wire question I go to my local electrical supplier, those guys know what's what when it comes to that stuff, if you don't trust the kid on the counter ask to see one of the inside sales guys, he'll know.....their stuff is also considerably cheaper than Home Depot and such.

As for red squirrels, are they getting into your attic? if so, you have to get up there and shoot the little buggers, then patch the hole good. I used metal flashing under the wood so they couldn't tear thru again, not that they didn't try!

My pellet gun took care of the ones that tried to get back in, since then I haven't had a problem.

Yeah, the red squirrels have been getting into the camper walls and ceiling. I picked off 10 last year in the surrounding trees with the 12 gauge. Got another 4 with the trap. First one this year met his maker last weekend. I swear I could shoot one a day for years and not make a dent in the population. Christmas tree farm next door doesn't help.
 

Zelatore

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Sep 22, 2011
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835
Location
Walnut Grove, CA
I don't know RVs, but on boats you have 30amp-120volt, 50amp-120volt, and 50amp-120/240volt. At least these are the common ones. You still see a few docks wired for 20amp-120 but it's really uncommon. And large yachts may have 100amp-240v, though again this is only on the big boys. I do find twin 50/240s on a lot of stuff in the 60'+ range though.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
I thought the A/C units in the big motor homes were 240v... Hmmm

That would be unusual. I have seen motor home with 2 A/C units, but I have never seen a campground that offers a 240V hookup. 2 A/C units would probably require a 120V 50A hookup.
 
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sfd524

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Oct 26, 2012
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Location
Clay, NY
Never heard of an electric water heater in a camper !

Yep, it is a 6 gallon tank with option to heat with propane or electric, or both if you really want a faster recovery rate. The electric only is plenty fast enough recovery for our use and cheaper then refilling the propane.
 

kschauwe

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Sep 1, 2012
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Location
NW Ohio
The 50A RV receptacles are 120/240V but the RV's loads are 120V only, if they were any 240V loads the users could not use the 50A to 30A adapters.
Those adapters connect both hot legs together to feed only the 120v circuits.
No 240v.
 

Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Location
Mt Rainier foothills, WA
Yep, it is a 6 gallon tank with option to heat with propane or electric, or both if you really want a faster recovery rate. The electric only is plenty fast enough recovery for our use and cheaper then refilling the propane.

I also have an electric/gas water heater in my RV. I like using the electric in campgrounds with hookups to save my propane and the electric is silent. Most water heaters have been gas/electric since the mid 90s. My 95 Nash trailer had this feature.

Same deal as the fridge, you can run it on gas or propane. Switch over when you get hooked up.
 

where2

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Dec 12, 2010
Messages
772
Location
South FL
I thought the A/C units in the big motor homes were 240v... Hmmm

I don't think so, but if you'd like I can check with the retired electronics technician who lives down the street and has two >30' motorhomes. Both of them have dual roof air. The latest has a 7.5kW genset to run them both.

The smaller of the two RVs is for sale, if you need one. ;)
 

Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,750
The 50A supply is 120/240V, but all loads are 120 volts in a RV, the 30A to 50A adapter used jumpers both legs together to allow the RV to use a 30A supply when 50A is not available. Tossed in the adapter info for the heck of it...
 
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