Camper Trailer Conversion

[redm18]

Let me start by saying that this might take me a while while depending on how long the weather holds out here in Iowa. I recently bought this trailer off of Facebook market place. The seller said it was a travel trailer from the 70's that was rotten so he cleared stripped it and was going to build a flatbed on it but he went in another direction so how sold it to me for what he said was the dump fee for the camper part $200. The deck is 20 foot long and about six feet wide. The outside rails are I think 5x2 & are about 3/16 inch thick. The axles say 3500lb on them.

 

[redm18]

My plan is to turn it into a flat bed. I want use it as a general utility trailer. Uses that come to mind are transporting my golf cart, lawn care equipment brush, helping me move next summer and dump runs. Possible future uses would be moving four wheelers I would like to get, moving a mill and lathe when I get a better shop, and possibly moving a car if possible. I need to replace the jack on it first and inspect the brakes and bearings and replace parts as needed. After that I need to install additional cross members then paint and install a deck on it. Somewhere in there I need to get it wired up with lights. I need help deciding how many cross members I need what they should be made of and where to put them. Also might think about cutting it down a few feet.

 

[phule]

Awesome project! In for the finish. I would like to do the same one day.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[redm18]

I only have a 120 volt mig welder. I'm wondering if I can make the cross members out of something thin enough that I can weld. I do have a oxy acetylene tourch as well. If you guys think I need thicker cross members I could probably tack them on then take them to the welding and machine shop in my neighborhood but obviously I would not mind saving the cash. I'm thinking cross members would maybe be 2x3 3/16 inch square tubing unless that sounds like a bad idea.

 

[matt_i]

120vac mig welder is not ideal. But it can work if you back bevel the workpieces to 1/16" or less of flat. Run welder on max heat. Or, figure out how to bolt things together, it can be done with angle iron clips. You don't want stuff coming apart at road speed while hauling things....huge danger to the general public who might be innocently following.

I haven't had much success running Mig vertical or upside down. I know it can be done but I have a lot better results with 7018 stick.

 

[tarmy]

The reason for cool projects...is so that you need more tools. You need to get a better welder...this trailer project is perfect...no excuses OP.

 

[redm18]

The reason for cool projects...is so that you need more tools. You need to get a better welder...this trailer project is perfect...no excuses OP.

While I like the way you think I don't really have 220 in the garage now. Unless I see a screaming deal on a ac/DC stick welder or a 220 mig.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

It's a little slow with 110, and for mills and such, you will probably want to make the sides a trussing structure as there isn't much beef to the camper any which way.
Consider carefully how to get good strength with less welding.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

I converted one to a flatbed years ago. It can be done but I got my trailer for free. You really need to beef up the frame as the walls of a camper are part of the structure. I added heavy 4x4 angle iron all the way around

 

[redm18]

So I drew a quick picture. The red lines are current structure. The blue lines would be possible additions. Am I on the right track? Is there a better way? Could the Additions be say 4x4 angle at like 3/16?

 

[Bretny]

Usualy the walls and roof added alot of strength to those camper trailers. I would for sure add more cross members and a rail around the whole thing. Landscape trailer style.

I rebuilt a old double axle landscape trailer into a 6.5x12ft 3500lb with brakes. I made one side forward of the axle removable by rebuilding the poorly built tounge and extending it back to the front spring hanger. I dont have a really good pic of the removable side but basicly its just a smaller pipe that slides into the top rail.

Here you can see the rubber mounted tail lights and some fuel jug racks. This will fit 3 quads or one utv and one quad.

 

[tarmy]

While I like the way you think I don't really have 220 in the garage now. Unless I see a screaming deal on a ac/DC stick welder or a 220 mig.

Sooo...you tell me yet another project that requires more new tools...that project requires one of these...





You are talking to a professional tool junkie!

 

[redm18]

Sooo...you tell me yet another project that requires more new tools...that project requires one of these...





You are talking to a professional tool junkie!

You can see over in the tool forum I was at least looking at welders at the Harbor Freight.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Dont use angle if you can help it, it twists if pushed on. Channel, beam, or box will get more strength per pound in almost any application.

The tongue beam not carrying through stacked under the trailer deck is huge strength compromise, not appropriate for many uses of a 20' deck.

 

[01-7700]

The next time you are driving around and pass by a place that sells new trailers stop in and take a look at a dual axle car hauler. Note the dimensions of the steel framing and the layout. My guess is it's quite a bit heavier than what you're working with on that camper. Camper was not designed to carry the weight you're wanting to carry. Also please take a moment to consider your skill vs. liability of putting an amateur-welded, under-designed, heavily-loaded trailer on the road.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

Channels running the length of the trailer won't be strong enough and will bend under load. I added 4x4x3/16 angle all around the outside to beef this up and give me a spot to screw down my deck boards.

 

[Bretny]

Dont use box in a salty climate. You can never paint the inside and salt will always find a way in. Its also prety expensive compaired to channel.

I replaced all the cross members on that trailer with 2x2x3/16 angle. Most crossmembers are 1/8in.

 

[redm18]

Channels running the length of the trailer won't be strong enough and will bend under load. I added 4x4x3/16 angle all around the outside to beef this up and give me a spot to screw down my deck boards.

So on my trailer the outside pieces are all 2x5 3/16 thick box. Not sure exactly what you are proposing here with angle. Would you lay it on top of this box? My worry about that is it seems like it would be hard to keep water out and it would rust from the inside. In what orientation? Without the angle are you thinking the side box pieces will bow outward or sag down or what?

 

[redm18]

The next time you are driving around and pass by a place that sells new trailers stop in and take a look at a dual axle car hauler. Note the dimensions of the steel framing and the layout. My guess is it's quite a bit heavier than what you're working with on that camper. Camper was not designed to carry the weight you're wanting to carry. Also please take a moment to consider your skill vs. liability of putting an amateur-welded, under-designed, heavily-loaded trailer on the road.

You advice seems good. I will be for sure making a field trip at some point in the future. I think a car on this might be a bit much but I would think for the most part it would work for my other uses. I for sure would prefer it to be over built vs under built.

 

[01-7700]

You advice seems good. I will be for sure making a field trip at some point in the future. I think a car on this might be a bit much but I would think for the most part it would work for my other uses. I for sure would prefer it to be over built vs under built.

A lathe or mill is on that trailer is also very questionable.