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theoldwizard1

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... this is a hodgepodge of parts and not a traditional rv inverter
I beg to differ ! Inverters with built-in chargers and transfer switches are a "relatively" new concept, probably less than 25 years old.

Call it a "hodgepodge", but if it works and is safe, what is wrong with it ?
 

micromind

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Simple drawing. Is this safe (notice, no grounds are show).

Screenshot 2026-07-18 162222.png

It'll work and most likely be safe but it's not the right way to do it.

The shore power has a neutral-ground bond. Since shore power doesn't always exist, the neutral-ground bond doesn't always exist therefore, the inverter needs to have a neutral-ground bond.

If only the hot is switched then when running on shore power, there are 2 neutral-ground bonds. Not a good idea since the ground in now parallel to the neutral and is now a current-carrying conductor. The ground should never carry current except in a fault situation.

So the solution is to switch both hot and neutral and thus, have only one neutral-ground bond at any given moment.
 
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PCustoms

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I beg to differ ! Inverters with built-in chargers and transfer switches are a "relatively" new concept, probably less than 25 years old.

I don't know when they started using them. I know for sure the new camper in 2000 had one, and the multiple before that did as well but I can't recall the years.
 
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theoldwizard1

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It'll work and most likely be safe but it's not the right way to do it.
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So the (best) solution is to switch both hot and neutral and thus, have only one neutral-ground bond at any given moment.
Thanks. I don't understand why this was such a hard thing for people to understand

(Hard for me to "draw" switching both with the tools I have ! :ROFLMAO:)
 
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theoldwizard1

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Related to this whole discussion ... In a camper trailer with a "modern" inverter/charger/transfer switch, if you are NOT attached to "shore power", "ground" is at best the frame of the trailer.

No one is going to carry a 6' copper bar and pound it 5' in the ground. What is the "best" "ground" solution when using a generator or inverter.
 

Cruzan80

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No one is going to carry a 6' copper bar and pound it 5' in the ground. What is the "best" "ground" solution when using a generator or inverter.
You answered your own question. The best solution is to attach a grounding fastener. The snip is from a Generic 4000XL (not inverter, but answers the first part).

The difference is that leaving the neutral connected when switching between shore and inverter means dual pathways are possible.
 

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rlitman

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Related to this whole discussion ... In a camper trailer with a "modern" inverter/charger/transfer switch, if you are NOT attached to "shore power", "ground" is at best the frame of the trailer.

No one is going to carry a 6' copper bar and pound it 5' in the ground. What is the "best" "ground" solution when using a generator or inverter.
I think you're confusing ground, with grounding, grounded, and earth. Each has it's own meaning.

For the purposes of a camper trailer (or boat) with an inverter, the grounding is a chassis ground. What matters is that you have a low resistance (all-metal) non-current-carrying return path to the source, and since the power source is on-board, earth doesn't come into the equation, so ground rods are irrelevant.
 
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