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Campfield hausfeld compressor switch setting

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bubinga

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I wonder if you photos can tell me is this type of pressure switch Adjustable you can see the on off switch or actually off auto switch on the left side is not working I am going to break the power wire and turn the switch on and off there but its not kicking off when it gets up to the red line and its but when the pressure relief valve so I don't know if these are Adjustable or if I have to get another pressure switch I'm
13cd856406d491e82279bdaf87e86b84.jpg
trying to attach a picture here
This is a little Compressor I got for well I got that red craftsman box in the compressor for $40 but hey Compressor I would not start after it had a little bit of air in it I had to replace the spring in the check valve that part of it is okay now but it's just not kicking off at 135 or wherever the red light is on the gauge and its blowing the pressure release valve again.

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gdocktor3

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You should be able to take the plastic housing off and inside you will see some type of adjusting mechanism. Heres a video I found on pressure switches. Watch from the 3 minute mark.
 
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goforride57

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I can tell you if you're looking to adjust the pressure, the switch will have a nut to loosen or tighten. It adjusts the spring tension which adjusts the cut off pressure. More tension is more air pressure. If you do not see this feature, it's probably fixed from the factory and not adjustable.

I can also say from that picture, it looks like that switch has some butchered wires spliced together with automotive grade heat shrink **** connectors. Certainly a no-no in my own personal opinion, being designed to handle 12 volts, not 20 amps. I hope it isn't representative of your wiring expertise.
 
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bubinga

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Oh okay I thought the automotive type shrink connectors would be sufficient for the 20 amp 110 circuit as I thought Automotive amperage was often higher than 20 amps yes I did what would be a better way to spice it? Solder and shrink tubing or wire nuts? I also think you are correct and that type of pressure switch is not adjustable I think it was cutting off before I think I may have inadvertently switch the two white wires when I splice them back together and I can't explain it but but can't see it in my mind but I think that is my problem I will let you know please advise on the best splice for that type of circuit thank you. In order to wire a power switch to the circuit would I be better to break the black wire before the motor or before the pressure switch or does it not matter? I was planning on breaking the wire before the pressure switch. I will follow up if switching the white wires correct the problem which I think it will I think in affect the way I have the white wire crossed it is in effect, bypassing the pressure switch. If I recall correctly I use these **** connectors when I wired the motor to my Delta band saw, but if that is a no no please advise on the best way to wire number I believe it is 14 gauge stranded wire. Would solder and shrink tubing be a better choice? Thank you. By the way I think the wire at the compressor switch is about number 16 possibly 14 stranded of course.

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bubinga

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I guess no one wants to touch this rereading my post it does sound like I don't know what I'm talking about but trust me I am relatively handy. First I am called a butcher and then the Respondent does not want to advise me on what he thinks is a better method even after I admitted yes I did use the **** connectors

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goforride57

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I never called anyone a butcher. Honestly, I don't know what to tell you.

As far as your answer to your question, I actually have one of these units and I took a picture of the switch.

image.jpg

To answer your question, neither **** connectors, wire nuts, nor solder. You could have simply loosened the screw on the plastic clamp, reposition the wire and cut back a couple inches of insulation and attached the neutrals back on the switch without splicing the wires back together.

With that, I am done here. I have no more input on your issues. Good luck.
 
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bubinga

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No I'm sorry I , you said it was butchered and I admit it I did it lol whatever anyways reversed the two white wires, and that didn't do it so it looks like I'm going to need a new pressure switch that's why it is not kicking off when it gets to the red line it was kicking off before I repair the check valve but it must have been constantly fighting it and never quite building up to the red line that's why I was kicking off just a theory. No hard feelings pal I am sure you are educated more than I am I am fair at electrical I'm not good but I'm fair at it anyways looks like I'm going to need a pressure switch . I was able to meet in the wiring up by extending the length of the wire in the strain relief and pushing in these little release tabs like a backstab 120 outlet. Non the less, looks like I'm going to need a pressure Switch.
I think they follow that show me this Compressor was not 100% honest with me has he plugged it in and let it run and pulled the plug on real quick so I should have insisted that is run through a cycle . Not a big deal though how get a pressure switch off ebay again thanks for your input

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Ironhorse74

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bubinga said:
Oh okay I thought the automotive type shrink connectors would be sufficient for the 20 amp 110 circuit as I thought Automotive amperage was often higher than 20 amps yes I did what would be a better way to spice it?
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Click to expand...

Those connectors are rated at 600 volts and 50 amps. I wouldn't sweat it.
 
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bubinga

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Ironhorse74 said:
Those connectors are rated at 600 volts and 50 amps. I wouldn't sweat it.
Click to expand...
Is that right?
Good to know. Thanks.
I know my Bandsaw is wired up with them, and I have not had a problem.
wish I didn't have to replace the switch.
I was going to wire a power switch, in the power in side, of the system cause the one on the pressure switch is not working.
There is Auto and off, well the "off" is not clicking into the off position.
(you plug it in, and it runs. )
but like I said, it seemed to be shutting off before. but it would not restart
till the tank was empty.
repairing the check valve fixed that issue, but now it is not turning off at 135 as it should, and is blowing the safety valve.
I could run it manually, and just shut it off right before the red line, as it is just for airing up tires, But I hate to work like that.
would rather see it working properly.
 
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gungatim

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west mich
Ironhorse74 said:
Those connectors are rated at 600 volts and 50 amps. I wouldn't sweat it.
Click to expand...

ayeah, lots of machines use connectors like that, spade, ****, etc. just because there may be a neater way of doing it doesn't make it wrong...

OP, if you can't get that switch working, you can buy a replacement for $25 at most farm stores and good hardware stores...
 
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bubinga

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Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
bubinga said:
E replacements has one for around $60.00 IIRC.
What about these ones from E bay, for about $12.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331756799873?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Did anyone ever try one, and are they decent.
This compressor will not see a lot of use?
Thank You.
Click to expand...

dwall174 said:
You could check with http://www.aircompressorpartsonline...-air-compressor-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
They usually carry most brands of parts.
Doug
Click to expand...
OP, if you can't get that switch working, you can buy a replacement for $25 at most farm stores and good hardware stores...[/QUOTE]

Ironhorse74 said:
Those connectors are rated at 600 volts and 50 amps. I wouldn't sweat it.
Click to expand...

gungatim said:
ayeah, lots of machines use connectors like that, spade, ****, etc. just because there may be a neater way of doing it doesn't make it wrong...
Click to expand...

thanks to all,
Yeah, I know they (shrinkable **** connectors) are in use on my old delta bandsaw I re did, for about the past, albeit light use, 5 years or so.
Yeah, at this point, although there are no springs and contacts (visible) to adjust,
I have nothing to loose, I am going to take that switch off, and bring it to the bench, and see if I can open it and see anything obvious.
If not I will replace it.

That switch has been updated to the more popular spring and visible contact type. But I can replace it with a cheaper version, and use my old gauges and pop off valve, and regulator. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YESRKI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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