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Can a trailer spindle be replaced

CalsXS2

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Jun 2, 2013
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I bought me a cheap little 5x8 utility trailer. I thought the guy came down on his price too easy,,,lol.

Turns out it's got a bent spindle from being clipped. I found some spindles but I'm not sure of the process of changing them. I guess you can do it can't you. :confused:

Has anyone done it. Does it just slide in the axle and get welded?

This is just a random spindle I found that makes me think I can do it.

http://www.agrisupply.com/product.aspx?p=25684&sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=25684&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NB_PLA_Targeted_GOOG&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=s1fmGKq0X|pcrid|71486709671|pmt||pkw||pdv|c|&&gclid=CP_X7pqH280CFQ6oaQodfp0LtA


Here's my $250 trailer. Can you see the bend in the spindle.
 

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Guster

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Has anyone done it. Does it just slide in the axle and get welded?

That is the way it is done in this part of the world. I've replaced one where the nut was cross threaded and it was beyond repair. Freeing the old stub in order to remove it can be more problematic than just making up a whole new axle.
 

SKFishing

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Yes, it can be done. I've done several over the years. Turn it on a lathe to get a tight fit inside the tube. Weld all the way around the face and plug weld on all four sides near the end of the spindle.
 

Zeke

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Try bending it back. Probably be fine for something light weight like that. You can bend it with a cheater pipe with the nut on the end to protect the threads. If it doesn't work you've lost nothing but a few minutes.
 

kerrynzl

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Tauranga, New Zealand
Here's how I did a repair just recently
I bought a replacement stub axle for NZD $9.00 [USD $6.30]


First you need a reference point measured ,so the same width can be replicated.
Check for plug welds and drill them out.

Use a 1mm cut-off wheel in a grinder and cut around the tubing but not too deep into the stub axle [and approx 3-6mm back from the edge ]

Put a nut and a "chain with a weight attached to it" ,on the stub axle and "hammer" the stub axle out. [a slide hammer will also work OK]

Tap the new stub axle in to the required width [ it wil appear to stick out a bit more because the tubing was cut back slightly ]

Weld away
 

TheEquineFencer

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Can it be done, yes, is it worth the trouble, IMO no.

Agri-Supply also sells blank axles to replace what you have.

Use a die grinder or cut off wheel to cut the OEM weld and pull the OEM stub out. Clean it well. If you heat the axle tube up, assuming the replacement stub doesn't just slide in, you can slide the new stub in and weld it.
 

Wanna Ride

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Someone suggested beating the spindle back into location... I wouldn't recommend that. The best bang for the buck is replace the whole axle. You can pick one up at someplace like Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet for under two hundred bucks. You got a decent deal on the trailer, so it's worth spending the cash.

You certainly could replace the spindle, but if you don't have access to all the tools, a welder, or the skills, then that adds to the task. And there's still no guarantee it'll be perfect, or the tube's not bent also. If you replace the entire axle, the whol job could be done, with tires/wheels bolted up and ready to roll in about an hour. Oh yeah, go ahead and buy the next larger axle. If your current one is, say... 1250 lbs, get the 1750, etc. Just be sure you get the right bolt pattern for the wheels, they're probably 5 on 4.5".

Good luck!
 
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Rj555

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South Dakota
I'd vote for replacement axle. It will be aligned and arched right. It will hopefully be welded up well enough.
 

TLCObsession

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Bellingham, WA
I always wondered how you would ever get the spindle lined up correctly - even if you were fabbing from scratch instead of a repair.

I have welded the spindles before to make a tire carrier on an off road bumpber, but alignment was not critical.
 

Zeke

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Someone suggested beating the spindle back into location... I wouldn't recommend that. The best bang for the buck is replace the whole axle. You can pick one up at someplace like Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet for under two hundred bucks. You got a decent deal on the trailer, so it's worth spending the cash.

You certainly could replace the spindle, but if you don't have access to all the tools, a welder, or the skills, then that adds to the task. And there's still no guarantee it'll be perfect, or the tube's not bent also. If you replace the entire axle, the whol job could be done, with tires/wheels bolted up and ready to roll in about an hour. Oh yeah, go ahead and buy the next larger axle. If your current one is, say... 1250 lbs, get the 1750, etc. Just be sure you get the right bolt pattern for the wheels, they're probably 5 on 4.5".

Good luck!
No one said to beat anything. I said give bending a try but don't dwell on it. AFA alignment is concerned a trailer could be off 2º and you'd never know it for the first 10,000 miles.
 

Wanna Ride

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No one said to beat anything. I said give bending a try but don't dwell on it. AFA alignment is concerned a trailer could be off 2º and you'd never know it for the first 10,000 miles.

Beat, bend... tomato, tomahto.
And I also disagree... well maybe YOU wouldn't, but I would. I've hauled all kinds of trailers, all over the continent, since the late 80's... you would know it. Initially, it would show up as peculiar tire wear. And God-forbid, if there was a crack that went unnoticed, and is discovered at 70mph and under a loaded trailer. It's ok, don't dwell on it. You tried your best.
 
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kerrynzl

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I always wondered how you would ever get the spindle lined up correctly - even if you were fabbing from scratch instead of a repair.

I have welded the spindles before to make a tire carrier on an off road bumpber, but alignment was not critical.

I make my own axles from a Hub-and-stub kit.
I prefer 50x50x 6mm square tube [2x2x1/4"] because I don't need spring pads.

The stub axle [spindle] is a sloppy fit inside the axle tube [but sometimes I need to grind a flat spot where the seam in the tube is.]

To allign the stub inside, I tap in 4 small pieces of solid round stock into the inside corners of the square tubing [I leave it protruding just enough to catch it with the weld]
I always pre-drill for plug welds even though the stub axle is positively located
 
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CalsXS2

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Jun 2, 2013
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After scouring the internet I found no real info. Especially not from Dexter. They would not help me at all. So I drove 30 miles to the nearest trailer supply. Unsure what diameter I needed I bought 2 different sizes spindles.

Then it dawned on me to check with the manufacturer. Hell. They had a part number for it. Sold at Tractor Supply stores. I swear to God the nearest Tractor Supply that stocked it was about 2 miles on down the very same road as the trailer supply place that I was at earlier,,,lol. Well I had to take the other spindles back anyway.

So I have a friend that has a fab shop where he build drag cars. He does sub frames, roll bars, everything. So I think he can handle the welding,,,lol.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Hopefully the wheel won't pass me going down the highway.
 

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TheEquineFencer

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After scouring the internet I found no real info. Especially not from Dexter. They would not help me at all. So I drove 30 miles to the nearest trailer supply. Unsure what diameter I needed I bought 2 different sizes spindles.

Then it dawned on me to check with the manufacturer. Hell. They had a part number for it. Sold at Tractor Supply stores. I swear to God the nearest Tractor Supply that stocked it was about 2 miles on down the very same road as the trailer supply place that I was at earlier,,,lol. Well I had to take the other spindles back anyway.

So I have a friend that has a fab shop where he build drag cars. He does sub frames, roll bars, everything. So I think he can handle the welding,,,lol.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Hopefully the wheel won't pass me going down the highway.

:thumbup::thumbup:
When all else fails, let a hot rodder fix it.....
 
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