Can anyone identify these outlets?

[phastbus]

I just bought a new to me house, built in 1987. I've got a total of 1800sqft of garage now! There is a 4 car garage on the bottom floor of the house and a detached 2 car garage with a subpanel.

I've got a 240v outlet in the attached garage and a 240v outlet in the detached garage as well. Both are 3 wires. I'm curious if anyone can give me a idea of the load these outlets are capable of with just a photo of the outlet? I'm guessing they're both 15a and I know I need to look at the wire size, but I figure it can't hurt to ask.

Black outlet is in the attached garage, white in the detached.

I haven't looked at the wire size yet. The breakers are not labeled so I don't know that yet either. I know I've got legwork to do.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

First photo *should* be a locking 5-15 receptacle. L5-15R 15 amps, 120 volts.

Second photo is definitely a 6-20R. Its 240 volts, 20 amps.

The voltage and amperage listed above is what the receptacle is rated for. It does not mean they're wired for the right voltage! Or amperage.

 

[phastbus]

Right on, thank you. Both have 240v.

Sounds like I'll need to change the black outlet to the correct receptacle for voltage. (and amperage, once I determine what it should be)......and I'll investigate the white outlet further too.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

First photo *should* be a locking 5-15 receptacle. L5-15R 15 amps, 120 volts.

Second photo is definitely a 6-20R. Its 240 volts, 20 amps.

The voltage and amperage listed above is what the receptacle is rated for. It does not mean they're wired for the right voltage! Or amperage.

I disagree that the first outlet is a L5-15 120v. To me it looks like the tang on the ground terminal goes outward meaning its an L6-15

I agree the second on is an 6-20....

 

[yeldogt]

That first one is weird ... what would that be used for ? The OP is saying it's 220v ??? All the 220v locking I have seen are singles.

The second looks like a typical dedicated window or small PTAC unit ... My grinder needs that size

 

[TRWham]

First one looks like an Arrow Hart (you can just make it out in the photo) and some are available in duplex configuration.

 

[Norcal]

Removal of the wall plates will expose the ratings of those receptacles.

 

[Terry D]

I believe this is what the twist lock is. It is a non nema rated device. Can be 120v or 240v. Figure that one out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NO...245665?hash=item3b33547da1:g:rqMAAOSwkgZdBCuM

 

[yatg]

I believe this is what the twist lock is. It is a non nema rated device. Can be 120v or 240v. Figure that one out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NO...245665?hash=item3b33547da1:g:rqMAAOSwkgZdBCuM

And its a backstab too for easy install!

 

[Norcal]

And its a backstab too for easy install!

Not a backstab, it's backwired, backstab is what cheap residential grade devices are, and hated by all other then contractors that specialize in low bid tract & spec homes.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

I disagree that the first outlet is a L5-15 120v. To me it looks like the tang on the ground terminal goes outward meaning its an L6-15



I agree the second on is an 6-20....

I don't commonly install twist locks, and it's not a clear shot of the receptacle, but you are right, the tang goes out. That rules out the L5-15.

 

[DenisG]

The twistlock is similar to Hubbell's HBL4550:

 

[wyliesdiesels]

And its a backstab too for easy install!

Thats definitely not a backstab.

There is no flathead screwdriver holes for wire release.

 

[Innovate1]

Thats definitely not a backstab.

There is no flathead screwdriver holes for wire release.

Those look more like the type that the screw tightens a plate from the back to clamp the wire. Those are great in my opinion - nice large area of contact with the wire and solid clamping force.

A bit of topic but I am wondering if they make those style clamps in toggle switches. If they make some with two holes like receptacles are I could avoid some wire nuts and extra wire for some dual switch boxes.

 

[Norcal]

Those look more like the type that the screw tightens a plate from the back to clamp the wire. Those are great in my opinion - nice large area of contact with the wire and solid clamping force.

A bit of topic but I am wondering if they make those style clamps in toggle switches. If they make some with two holes like receptacles are I could avoid some wire nuts and extra wire for some dual switch boxes.

On better quality switches (spec grade) the pressure plate terminals are available.

 

[Terry D]

Those look more like the type that the screw tightens a plate from the back to clamp the wire. Those are great in my opinion - nice large area of contact with the wire and solid clamping force.

A bit of topic but I am wondering if they make those style clamps in toggle switches. If they make some with two holes like receptacles are I could avoid some wire nuts and extra wire for some dual switch boxes.

Yes, they are available. More of a commercial application. They are great for stranded wire

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[BJT]

A lot of times if you can't read the rating of the receptacle on the face of the receptacle, if you remove the faceplate the info will be visible on the part of the receptacle that's under the faceplate. Or you can find charts like this one online pretty easy.

 

[Norcal]

A lot of times if you can't read the rating of the receptacle on the face of the receptacle, if you remove the faceplate the info will be visible on the part of the receptacle that's under the faceplate. Or you can find charts like this one online pretty easy.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50103104976_57ae826589_c.jpg[/][/QUOTE]

Then there are obsolete non-NEMA configurations that won’t show up on those charts, like the 20A crowfoot receptacle that the current receptacles used in Australia & New Zealand was copied from.