Can anyone recommend a simple to use drill bit sharpener?
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2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I had a slight learning curve to pick up my drill doctor, but after ten minutes or so it's like an assembly line of sharpening. I have the 750 model, and it will do 135*.
It's more than paid for itself, took about 9 months to do so. Now I always have sharp bits, and I've even saved a few broken ones, after grinding them generally to shape with my cut off wheel.
1/8 is about as small as you're going to be able to go, although you won't get it perfect the first time.
It's more than paid for itself, took about 9 months to do so. Now I always have sharp bits, and I've even saved a few broken ones, after grinding them generally to shape with my cut off wheel.
1/8 is about as small as you're going to be able to go, although you won't get it perfect the first time.
MarineScott
Well-known member
Drill Doctor. I have had mine since 2004, and it was under water for 3 days when we lost our home in a flood, and it still works today.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
drill doctor 750 here... but I don't bother smaller than 3/16th... I buy 10 bits at a clip on those sizes.
astroracer
Well-known member
I've been using my DD750 for 10 or 11 years now and it has sharpened a lot of drills. I know the drills are sharp because they will pull twin curls when drilling. That means both cutting surfaces are sharp and have the correct back angle.
The split point feature is a "little" clunky but it does work. I drilled this series of 5/16 dia holes for an angle plate I built.
With the split point I did not have to drill pilot holes.
Mark
The split point feature is a "little" clunky but it does work. I drilled this series of 5/16 dia holes for an angle plate I built.
With the split point I did not have to drill pilot holes.
Mark
When it comes to a Drill doctor you'll find opinions all over the map on them. My opinion is that to many think they are as simple as a pencil sharpener, they are not. If you don't understand the geometry of a drill bit then you probably have a 50/50 chance of getting a high quality job. Also understand that there have been a few different models of DD over the years and some work better than others.
That said I have one of the older models and use it a lot. I can also grind a bit on a wheel if necessary so either work for me. My mode is that if the bit just needs the edge touched up then use the DD. If the bit is chipped, blued, or otherwise damaged then use the grinder to sharpen it and the DD to hone the edge and split the point.
lg
no neat sig line
That said I have one of the older models and use it a lot. I can also grind a bit on a wheel if necessary so either work for me. My mode is that if the bit just needs the edge touched up then use the DD. If the bit is chipped, blued, or otherwise damaged then use the grinder to sharpen it and the DD to hone the edge and split the point.
lg
no neat sig line
Forever Fixin
Well-known member
I have the drill doctor also, the 350? Really pays for itself when your in the middle of a project and need a sharp bit. Anyone use one of the guides that mounts on a bench grinder? I'd be interested in having more than 1/2" capacity since those big bits are expensive.
rlitman
Well-known member
My DD750 came with a VHS video cassette that explained its use, if that helps put a date on it. I didn't own a DVD player at the time (they were pretty new things), and Universal Tube still was just a website that sold pipe forming machines. LOL.
Mine has a pretty clunky setup (both in splitting the points, and in the way the tip angle is set) that I know they have greatly improved in more recent models. Still, I've learned to get past those issues, and have no trouble producing bits that produce twin curls.
So, here's my take on the DD mixed reviews: There are those people who took the DD out of the box, read the instructions and failed miserably at sharpening a bit. If you're that instant gratification sort of person who cannot take the time to learn a new skill and thinks you can do anything the instant you put your hands on it, then you'll be the same person disparaging it as a piece of junk.
Then, there are those who took the time to watch the instructional videos, and then spent 10 minutes or so of hands-on learning, following the instructions to the letter until they got the feel for it. Once you get the feel for it (and getting the feel for following the cam action is REALLY important), you get AMAZING results.
Oh, and the DD is really meant most to touch up bit tips. If you snapped a bit and want to put a new tip on it, its best to start by getting the geometry close on the grinder.
Mine has a pretty clunky setup (both in splitting the points, and in the way the tip angle is set) that I know they have greatly improved in more recent models. Still, I've learned to get past those issues, and have no trouble producing bits that produce twin curls.
So, here's my take on the DD mixed reviews: There are those people who took the DD out of the box, read the instructions and failed miserably at sharpening a bit. If you're that instant gratification sort of person who cannot take the time to learn a new skill and thinks you can do anything the instant you put your hands on it, then you'll be the same person disparaging it as a piece of junk.
Then, there are those who took the time to watch the instructional videos, and then spent 10 minutes or so of hands-on learning, following the instructions to the letter until they got the feel for it. Once you get the feel for it (and getting the feel for following the cam action is REALLY important), you get AMAZING results.
Oh, and the DD is really meant most to touch up bit tips. If you snapped a bit and want to put a new tip on it, its best to start by getting the geometry close on the grinder.
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Roberts210
Well-known member
I had a Drill Doc 500 for many years and got lots of use out of it. A D.D. does take some time to learn how to register the drill bit into the chuck, but once you figure it out it's easy.
But wouldn't you know I got a bunch of 9/16ths to 1" bits and I needed to sharpen them. So I found this sweetie on the local CL for $200. and sold the D.D.
But wouldn't you know I got a bunch of 9/16ths to 1" bits and I needed to sharpen them. So I found this sweetie on the local CL for $200. and sold the D.D.
Corndoggeh
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2016
- Messages
- 1,198
You could use a drill doctor, but I just use the bench grinder and learned the motion for dressing a drill bit. I've also seen cheaper jigs for sharpening drill bits on a bench grinder as well.
stonesg
Well-known member
Nice clean/square grinding wheel and a good protractor or drill gauge is the ticket.
It's not really difficult once you get the hang of it.
ricleh
Well-known member
You don't get much simpler than this machine.
Jeeper
Well-known member
3300 for that Darex. You have to sharpen a lot of bits to make that cost effective.
But it does look nicer than my Drill Doctor.
But it does look nicer than my Drill Doctor.
PBCampbell
Well-known member
That Darex 3300 looks like something on Star Trek, lol. Good on you for having it though.
LOL, at first, the DD looked like a real nightmare, until I read the manual and followed the whopping 3 steps, it takes, to sharpen a standard bit.
I had to take a nap afterwards, it was the most exhausting two minutes of my life, but I ended up with a razor-sharp bit, which is was I really needed in the first place.
I'm a bit slow and don't use the DD a lot, so I know I'll forget the steps and will have to re-read the manual again, next time.
I had to take a nap afterwards, it was the most exhausting two minutes of my life, but I ended up with a razor-sharp bit, which is was I really needed in the first place.
I'm a bit slow and don't use the DD a lot, so I know I'll forget the steps and will have to re-read the manual again, next time.
Provincial
Well-known member
You don't get much simpler than this machine.
I believe that the Darex folks make the Drill Doctor, too! They developed it for people who are not professional drill sharpening shops.
You don't get much simpler than this machine.
Couldn't possibly be more accurate, than sharpening by hand.
Advan
Well-known member
Learn how to do it on your bench grinder.
astroracer
Well-known member
Just a little story. My uncle is up from Texas this week. He is a tool and die guy and the one who taught me to sharpen drills by hand. He came over Saturday and we made a lift hook for a buddies electric handicapped scooter. 1/4" plate with a 1/2" bolt for the lift hinge. Using the mill I handed him a 1/2" drill to drill the holes. He asked, "What, no pilot hole"? I said "Nope, don't need one...". He said okay and drilled the holes with the 1/2" drill, no pilot. The drill was pulling two curls and wasn't making a sound while drilling. He was pretty impressed when I told him I sharpened the drill and split the point on my Drill Doctor.
These tools work very well and it takes just seconds to get a dull drill sharp.
Mark
These tools work very well and it takes just seconds to get a dull drill sharp.
Mark
Ign
Well-known member
Uh, who would do a pilot hole for 1/2"? I've never heard of that in all my years as a machinist.
Are you talking spotting perhaps just so the bit doesn't walk?
Are you talking spotting perhaps just so the bit doesn't walk?
trottmd1488
New member
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2017
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I am by no means a machinist, but I have always been told that the most efficient way of drilling a hole was to start with a pilot, then step up the bit sizes graduwlly until reaching desired diameter/depth. If I have been told wrong, please correct and explain why. In the words of Spinal Tap, "Wouldn't want to look stoopid." Thank you for post.
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Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
rlitman
Well-known member
You've been told wrong.
Standard drill bits wander and become grabby when you use them in existing holes that are too large. The largest pilot hole size you should use would be a little bit smaller than the web of the drill bit. That's going to be a little more than 1/3 the diameter.
So, for a 1/2" hole, off the top of my head, a 3/16" pilot would be ok. Larger than that will cause issues.
mowkep
Well-known member
Our shop has the Darex V290. I've sharpened alot of the drills with it. The prongs on the collet holder are the worst part of it. I believe there are 6 of them and if they don't close equally then you have to retighten and resharpen. Also I've been machinist for almost 30 years and I've drilled smaller holes for pilot holes. Nothing wrong with it. I also spot every hole I ever drill.
ffast65
Well-known member
DD 750... I have used on cobalt.... and they 1000 of spot welds this year.
astroracer
Well-known member
This^^^. I have always drilled a small pilot hole when drilling anything larger the 3/8th's. Of course this was done, offhand, with a drill motor. Drilling a pilot is much more efficient when drilling holes by hand.
I had him use the 1/2" drill because I wanted him to see how well the DD worked. It would have been quicker to drill a small pilot before going to the 1/2" but that wasn't the point I was trying to make with him.
Mark
ssdave
Banned
Drilling pilot holes of any size except a small starter/guide hole is a good way to chip or break a bit. A good bit will overfeed and have problems if it has a pilot hole.
A lot of the guys that advocate a pilot hole do so based on their experience. They have problems drilling large holes. (usually because of badly sharpened or dull bits). So, they drill pilot holes and step up the size until they're just under what they need. Each dull bit overfeeds, which is just enough to actually make it cut. So, their experience is that it works.
If you properly sharpen the bits, they will cut a hole without the need for a pilot. Sometimes I spot a starter hole to keep the bit from walking; I usually use a stepped center bit that won't walk to do that. Anytime I can drill in the press or mill I do that to avoid problems with hole placement anyway.
I worked with one of those guys that ridiculed a drill sharpener. He talked about how when he was in high school, he had been taught how to properly sharpen a drill bit on the grinder, and he could do it faster/better/more accurately than a sharpener could. So, we were wasting our time and energy, we should have learned it right like he had.
Every time I saw him drill a large hole, he used two or 3 different bits to do it. Sure enough, his expertly sharpened bits wouldn't cut and feed unless they were just cutting a small amount on the outside edge. I could go get a newly sharp cobalt bit from my stuff, and drill right through, no fuss, no pilot hole, no problems. Of course, you couldn't tell him anything, he knew it all.
A lot of the guys that advocate a pilot hole do so based on their experience. They have problems drilling large holes. (usually because of badly sharpened or dull bits). So, they drill pilot holes and step up the size until they're just under what they need. Each dull bit overfeeds, which is just enough to actually make it cut. So, their experience is that it works.
If you properly sharpen the bits, they will cut a hole without the need for a pilot. Sometimes I spot a starter hole to keep the bit from walking; I usually use a stepped center bit that won't walk to do that. Anytime I can drill in the press or mill I do that to avoid problems with hole placement anyway.
I worked with one of those guys that ridiculed a drill sharpener. He talked about how when he was in high school, he had been taught how to properly sharpen a drill bit on the grinder, and he could do it faster/better/more accurately than a sharpener could. So, we were wasting our time and energy, we should have learned it right like he had.
Every time I saw him drill a large hole, he used two or 3 different bits to do it. Sure enough, his expertly sharpened bits wouldn't cut and feed unless they were just cutting a small amount on the outside edge. I could go get a newly sharp cobalt bit from my stuff, and drill right through, no fuss, no pilot hole, no problems. Of course, you couldn't tell him anything, he knew it all.
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Correct, straight from the Darex rep at FabTech.
I recommend a smaller sharpener which attaches to the drill rather than the more expensive "Drill Doctor". Here is an example:
https://www.tanotis.com/products/drill-bit-sharpener-cbs43-clarke-international?variant=19437254661
https://www.tanotis.com/products/drill-bit-sharpener-cbs43-clarke-international?variant=19437254661
mowkep
Well-known member
I have no problem drilling larger holes....I base it on the machine, material, tolerance and set up. Horizontal or vertical mill. I don't always do it. But that's how I was taught and it has always worked. It's never caused a problem with the drill either. I only use the spot type drills. The two step ones always seemed to wreak havoc on brand new drills.
Forever Fixin
Well-known member
Who else has used their drill doctor enough that's they have had to replace the grinding stone? any recommendations? Amazon has two grits, one more aggressive than the other.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It's kinda obvious... fine grit for sharpening drill bits... coarse for putting a shape on broken bits.