To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

can compressor unloader valve be too small?

gkring

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
134
Location
Keller, Texas
Been using the same 60 gallon cambell hausefield twin cylinder compressor for years. When it shuts off I had maybe 1 or 2 seconds of the hiss of the unloader valve. I recently added a hayden trannny cooler as an aftercooler between the compressor and tank check valve. Now when it cycles the unloader is open for at least 10 seconds. Enough to make others think it is stuck. It does consistently shut off. A decent volume of extra air was added with the aftercooler, but not that much. Is it just too much for the stock unloader valve?

P.S.--did a search and read a couple 30 page compressor mod and aftercooler threads. Anything relevant to unloader valve just dealt with stuck ones. Nothing about one running too long.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The Cobbler

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
25,804
Location
Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
the more air volume you have to unload, the longer it will take . those orifices on the unloaders are relatively small . nothing to worry about, as long as it's unloaded before the compressor kicks in again LOL
 

azchrisf

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
125
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Mine does the same thing on a DeWalt two stage. Gotta remember you used to have a short length of pipe for the air to unload, now you have an entire transmission cooler that needs to be unloaded. They didn't design them for use with aftercoolers butNo issue it just takes longer. As cobbler said as Long as it is done unloading by the time it kicks in again yeah you have no problem
 
Last edited:

84prerunner

Active member
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
32
thats too be expected, its just draining the air out of the cooler. You could replumb it so the check valve and unloader are before the cooler that way the unloader doesnt haveto drain the cooler every time.
 

skulldrinker

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
1,171
Location
Bolingbrook, IL
I have for an after cooler 50' of copper tubing buried in the ground outside before entering the tank. I too have long hissy fits. That is normal.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

toolmiser

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
1,653
Location
La Crosse, WI
I have a 30 yr old compressor that hisses for way to long after shutoff (I believe its a sanborn three horse). I guess that the valve is shot, is that something I need to get from the original manufacturer, or is there better places?

Thanks
 
OP
G

gkring

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
134
Location
Keller, Texas
Cool, thanks.
Knew what was causing it and figured no harm, just slightly annoying. Love the cool air going to the tank now. Just was wondering it I needed or could resize the unloader. I will just live with it.
 

metlmunchr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
1,278
I have a 30 yr old compressor that hisses for way to long after shutoff (I believe its a sanborn three horse). I guess that the valve is shot, is that something I need to get from the original manufacturer, or is there better places?

Thanks

If air continues to come out of the relief port on the pressure switch then the check valve at the tank is likely leaking air back from the tank.

Most of these valves on home shop type compressors have a male pipe thread that screws into the tank and a compression fitting thread on the inlet end. There are several different ones available on Amazon by searching "air compressor check valve". Just have to match up the threads with what you've got now. Some compressors have the pressure relief line tied into the valve itself while others will have the relief line piped into the cylinder head of the compressor itself. Both types of check valves are available, with the ones having provision for the relief line having a small tapped hole in the side of the valve body.

FWIW, these check valves are usually the first thing to fail on a compressor that gets much use. I've got a little 3hp craftsman that I bought in 78 that's been used quite a bit. I've replaced the head gasket once, but the check valve has been replaced at least 4 times. I've bought the replacements from various sources, and unfortunately, one is just as crappy as the other.
 

toolmiser

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
1,653
Location
La Crosse, WI
If air continues to come out of the relief port on the pressure switch then the check valve at the tank is likely leaking air back from the tank.

Most of these valves on home shop type compressors have a male pipe thread that screws into the tank and a compression fitting thread on the inlet end. There are several different ones available on Amazon by searching "air compressor check valve". Just have to match up the threads with what you've got now. Some compressors have the pressure relief line tied into the valve itself while others will have the relief line piped into the cylinder head of the compressor itself. Both types of check valves are available, with the ones having provision for the relief line having a small tapped hole in the side of the valve body.

FWIW, these check valves are usually the first thing to fail on a compressor that gets much use. I've got a little 3hp craftsman that I bought in 78 that's been used quite a bit. I've replaced the head gasket once, but the check valve has been replaced at least 4 times. I've bought the replacements from various sources, and unfortunately, one is just as crappy as the other.

Thanks for the info, didn't know myself, and didn't know who to ask.
 

Bigblockyeti

Banned
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Messages
2,550
Location
Upstate, SC
Sounds like everything is fine, in fact having more volume after the pump and before the check valve gives the motor additional time to gain pump speed before the full load is placed on the pump and motor.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom