Can I Frame New Wall Directly on Garage Slab?

[bradesp]

Guys,

I'm about to remodel the room that connects to my garage. We will be bumping the interior room out approx. 3 feet. We haven't yet cut open the sheetrock to confirm if this is wall is load bearing or not... BUT, we think it's non load bearing. I have several questions about the feasibility of framing the new wall:

Question #1:
Can I frame the new wall directly onto my concrete slab? If so, should I cut an expansion join along the new wall? Also, any problem if I decide to build a small masonry wall on top of the slab to match my current foundation?

Question #2:
Should I be cutting the slab "open", digging/pouring a new footing and then framing the new wall on the new foundation wall?

Thanks!

 

[MP&C]

Does the garage have a second floor above or just attic trusses? Looking at the orientation of these in the ceiling nail pattern, that wall does indeed appear to be load bearing...

 

[Colonial Cobra]

You need to determine if the existing wall is load bearing or not.
If the new wall is just a partition wall, would be fine on the existing slab. I would drill a few spots to ensure a decent slab thickness. It's you preference on the block. Even with a 4" slab, two rows of block will not add any significant weight to the wall.

What is the roof line like above the wall you want to remove? Single story? It should be pretty obvious if it's load bearing or not looking at the layout of the house and roof lines.
Do you have a picture of the house or floorplans?
Brad.

 

[bradesp]

The garage has a second floor above. What the photo doesn't show, is that behind the wall in the picture is a 3 foot wide hallway... We believe the joists that run in the ceiling go all the way across the hallway to the second, interior wall. Again, it's impossible to see, but the ceiling joists hang off a large piece of steel beam that splits my garage "in two". The joists on the both sides of the steel beam are exactly the same distance as the joists that go all the way to my second, interior hall wall.

Hope this description isn't too confusing.

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Looks to me like you are giving up some garage space, so NO you can't build a wall there.
I have yet to hear of any plausible reason to surrender garage space.
Nope, can't be done.

 

[Pathfinders]

Looks to me like you are giving up some garage space, so NO you can't build a wall there.
I have yet to hear of any plausible reason to surrender garage space.
Nope, can't be done.

Nice.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Does the garage have a second floor above or just attic trusses? Looking at the orientation of these in the ceiling nail pattern, that wall does indeed appear to be load bearing...

I'd rather follow the lay of the sheets of drywall rather than the nail pattern. If that is a load bearing wall, then they installed the drywall along the joists/trusses rather than across.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The garage has a second floor above. What the photo doesn't show, is that behind the wall in the picture is a 3 foot wide hallway... We believe the joists that run in the ceiling go all the way across the hallway to the second, interior wall. Again, it's impossible to see, but the ceiling joists hang off a large piece of steel beam that splits my garage "in two". The joists on the both sides of the steel beam are exactly the same distance as the joists that go all the way to my second, interior hall wall.

Hope this description isn't too confusing.

How about a few more pictures of the garage ceiling, including the beam.

 

[Trochu]

Its possible, but why would the designer make an interior wall load bearing when there is an exterior, fou dation supported wall 3' away? You'll likely have to post a lot of photos for it to make sense. As for the garage, is it a structurally supported slab or slab on grade? If its slab on grade it should be designed for some lateral movement, something to consider if your going to build right on top of it.

 

[gpflepsen]

If the interior hall wall is the load bearing wall, there will be a concrete foundation wall below it. If there are two foundation walls just three feet apart, that's a waste of resources for a typical house build. The steel beam may be over-run for continuity in supporting the above floor, and is cantilevered beyond the bearing garage wall.

I'd be surprised if the garage wall wasn't load bearing.

 

[MP&C]

I'd rather follow the lay of the sheets of drywall rather than the nail pattern. If that is a load bearing wall, then they installed the drywall along the joists/trusses rather than across.

I believe you're right


Since hallways are wasted space, perhaps pushing the garage wall back three feet and moving doors to either end of where the hallway used to be....

 

[sawbuck]

what ! you want to make your garage smaller ? that is unheard of ...do you know what site you are on ? ha ha

 

[teamextreme]

The existing wall is most certainly load bearing, it's sitting on the foundation. As such, you can't just tear it down without some serious engineering thought put forth to redistribute that load. Even if you made a new footer at your new wall you have increased the span those beams are subjected to. Also, how would you extend those beams to the new load bearing wall? Can you just sister some 2x's together? Probably not. That all has to be considered. Having said all that, your membership here should really be revoked for even considering this shameful idea of violating sacred garage square footage.

 

[roblouvasz]

Giving up garage space for living space??? It that legal??

 

[LX-Markham]

You also haven't mentioned your location. I'd be concerned about placing a partition wall on an unheated slab.

An architect or an engineer needs to review your house in person.

And agreed with the rest of the opinions here: you're never going to get that garage space back ever again.

 

[Outlander]

Please post this in the 'I need a smaller garage' thread. Oh wait, there isn't one!

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I think my preference would be to remove the existing wall and expand the garage into that wasted hallway space behind it. Or, if you can't remove the wall, cut enough openings in it to make a nice tool room out of the hallway behind.

I mean, who needs a hallway? This is Garage Space we're talking about.

Priorities!

 

[CNGsaves]

What country?? What state & city??

Do you have to get permit, and who will be doing work??

Overall, seems like giant waste of energy to carve out 3 ft of garage. Let's see plans/drawings of WHY this is being considered?? My bet is that IS a load-bearing wall.

There will be countless EXTRA EXPENSES if that house is laid out like most with kitchen to the right of that door. Thus, most all have oven on that wall so you will be moving 240volt wiring = = = $$$ Most ovens have exhaust hood that also have flue up through ceiling, so moving that will be major PITA.

Way too little information provided.

 

[rancherbill]

You need to post exterior pics of the garage and the house.

You need to post a floor plan

That wall is a load bearing wall. Load bearing walls go on top concrete footing just like your picture. You can cut them but you have to put a header just like a garage car door.

Building on the floor really depends on the settlement and heaving issue.

You need to post your location.

 

[Bigplum]

Madness , don't loose a inch of garage , you know what will happen , a inch today a foot tomorrow ,before you know it garage gone! and you'll be left watching the shopping channels and buying useless kitchen gadgets instead of TOOLS

I'm trying to convince my wife to let me have a upstairs shed , just knock thru the landing window and build a shed/ balcony on stilts , she just ain't buying it.... Women!

 

[Heiny57]

No, that wall is structural.

 

[tcianci]

Regardless of what the experts on here are saying, there's no way to tell for sure that the wall you're questioning is load bearing or not from the information and illustrations you supply. Not all perimeter walls bearing on a foundation are load bearing, the simplest example being the gable ends of a simple Cape or ranch style house. In the event that the wall you want to get rid of is not load bearing, you should have no problem framing your new wall on the existing slab. Be sure to provide a pressure treated bottom plate on your new wall.