Can I learn to paint?

[Chaznsc]

I am interested if the average guy off the street (me) could learn the skill of painting as in Automotive type paint. I have several restore projects for an old safe, some old porch rockers and don't think I can get good results using rattle cans. I have some basic experience having worked in a body shop many moons ago, but none with actually painting.

I have all the air I can eat, but don't even know where to begin with hardware, paint, etc. I'd likely never paint anything larger than a gas pump. so I don't need to get exotic.

If its too hard a hill to climb for the layman, that's all I need to know.

chaz

 

[Richard D]

There's a reason paint and body work is so expensive.

 

[mayday0017]

Paint and body work is expensive because of the time it takes not because of the skill... I say go for it, I have seen many people attempt painting. All of them that were willing to put the time into reading and learning how to do propper prep work came out with decent paint jobs and when they did it again down the road came out with excellent paint jobs.

Edit:
Eh before I get bashed on for my first line let me say, there are some extremely skilled body/paint guys out there. They can do amazing work but more importantly they do it quickly. A good body guy can make money because he his fast and got that way from trial and error. A dedicated DIY person (key word dedicated) can get the same results, he will just have to put more time in.

 

[blindbug]

Given the size of your projects, would something like an airbrush work? I'm not sure what size sprayer is needed on something like say, a toolbox? I was in the same boat as you... I've always wanted to get a real gun and learn to spray, but don't know if it is worth my money if I might not get any better results than I already do with rattle can jobs.

 

[Sureshot]

Take your least important or easiesr to redo project and go for it. Your results will match the time, effort, and materials money put into it.

 

[Richard D]

Given the size of your projects, would something like an airbrush work? I'm not sure what size sprayer is needed on something like say, a toolbox?

How about a touch up gun? Any "real" paint gun is gonna have to be cleaned each and every time you use it.

 

[dirttracker18]

Fast, good, cheap. Pick two.

You can, after some time, learning and practice, get your work good and in your case cheap.

A lot is in the prep work and then some skill in handling the gun. The rest is learning.

Go for it. It will be a skill you will enjoy.

 

[JimVonBaden]

I've done some painting in the past. No pro stuff, but for the little projects you have it should be no problem. Remember that paint is 90% prep. Do some research, there are lots of great resources online, and practice on scrap first.

You can easily get away with a touch-up gun, even a cheapo like the HF purple one will give pretty good results. You can usually get a nice clean job on small objects with a little practice.

Now, painting a car that you want to look more than just OK, take it to a pro!

Jim

 

[countryroad82]

The key to it all is practice, practice, practice!!

 

[shift_slide242]

I know for a fact you can do it, ive been in the automotive field for about ten years but had never done any body work. i got hired to be a bodyshop assistant at my last job and went into it knowing nothing. my boss had owned his own shop doing muscle cars and fleet work and was very good at what he did, he was able to show me how to paint and do bodywork in about a month. i bought a cheap harbor freight paint gun, got it dialed in and the rest was attention to detail in your prep work. i once asked him what the difference between his white fleet paint jobs and his show winning muscle car jobs and he said attention to detail during prep.

cliff notes: you can do it!!

 

[383 240z]

Painting is something you can learn. I would recommend you a few things. Buy a decent gun, you dont need a $1000 Iwata but a $19.99 HF will drive you nuts. Next up swing by your local paint house and ask to buy some Ooops paint. They have a paint locker with mis-mixed paint that they will sell for pennies on the dollar compared to retail. Then try to get some new, yet damaged panels from a replacement body panel company, like LKQ or Tab-co ect. Your paint shop might even be able to help you get some. They make great practice panels. I've even seen guys shoot water out of their guns in tech school, to practice overlapping for coverage, and learning what the knobs on the gun adjust. Keith

 

[unpredictable1]

I am interested if the average guy off the street (me) could learn the skill of painting as in Automotive type paint. I have several restore projects for an old safe, some old porch rockers and don't think I can get good results using rattle cans. I have some basic experience having worked in a body shop many moons ago, but none with actually painting.

I have all the air I can eat, but don't even know where to begin with hardware, paint, etc. I'd likely never paint anything larger than a gas pump. so I don't need to get exotic.

If its too hard a hill to climb for the layman, that's all I need to know.

chaz

I self-taught myself because I tend to get cars that need a fender or a bumper or whatever.

I only do basecoat/clearcoat applications and for the most part only ever used Waterborne paint which I heard is easier to work with but I have no idea.

Laying down the clear, and most importantly a little wetsanding and a nice buff with a polisher and good polish made all the difference. I've completed pieces that couldn't be picked out against the factory and also I found that I tend to get my finish to have less orange peel than some factory clearcoats. (but the wetsanding and polishing helps immensely there)

It takes time, it take patience. It takes the frame of mind that you put all kinds of effort in and then fudge something up and have to start over.

But, seeing the finished product is really satisfying. But for things not automotive like the items you listed, I really can't see it being difficult for you to master.

 

[DCarr]

Yes you can. I taught myself and a friend, he went on to open his business and was getting HUGE $$$ for his paint jobs. You can teach a monkey o spray paint. Its all in the prep work ... which I can NOT do very well at all !!!

 

[jlckmj]

I have painted a dozen or more vehicles, with the last one I took first place in my class (overall not just paint) in the Milwaukee World of Wheels show about 15 years ago.

The secret, like mentioned above is practice, and I will ad education. A web site I used to frequent is www.autobodystore.com Check out their forums and get educated on the equipment that is out there.

I really think it is much easier to get a good paint job with today's base clear coat paints than it is (was) to do so with enamels. With enamels, the entire coat had to be wet, and it was a fine line between wet, and runs. If you sprayed enamels dry you had terrible orange peel or a dull looking finish.

With the base/clear paints, the base coat goes on rather dry so less chance of a run, the clear coat goes on wetter, so there is a chance of runs, but if you put several coats of clear on, you will have plenty of thickness so you can finish sand it and then buff to a mirror shine.

If you are just going to be doing small items like you stated, I would not spend mega bucks on a gun, just get a decent hvlp gun and go for it, but USE A GOOD RESPIRATOR, THE **** IS DEADLY!

Jim

 

[DCarr]

Here's my first paint job, done in my garage. copied from the DSOTM album cover 6 candy colors used to make the stripes. A friend did the body work. Cant tell a whole lot from this pic, but it got a lot of compliments.

 

[SteveCh]

I'll show my ignorance here and ask the difference and benefits of airless and "regular" air-driven painting. Forgive my terminology, I know nothing about it. I've heard people say "airless" is best. What's the deal? Does "airless" use no air at all?? Is is more difficult to learn, is one better than the other?

 

[mayday0017]

Airless is typically used when painting a house, when doing a car it is typically done using air...

 

[Chaznsc]

I'll show my ignorance here and ask the difference and benefits of airless and "regular" air-driven painting. Forgive my terminology, I know nothing about it. I've heard people say "airless" is best. What's the deal? Does "airless" use no air at all?? Is is more difficult to learn, is one better than the other?

Thank you for asking whati was thinking

 

[DCarr]

I'll show my ignorance here and ask the difference and benefits of airless and "regular" air-driven painting. Forgive my terminology, I know nothing about it. I've heard people say "airless" is best. What's the deal? Does "airless" use no air at all?? Is is more difficult to learn, is one better than the other?

There's HVLP High Volume Low Pressure which is very common ... might even be some EPA regulations towards it .......

 

[JC23]

Lotsa good vids on YouTube!

 

[pepi]

$1000 Iwata ......... never seen one of those. I do own a 400 $$ one and worth every penny, the biggest advantage with that gun is it sprays as close to zero overspray as you will ever get.

For the OP if you can rattle can spray paint you can get use to a spray gun, prep and masking that's the work. Follow the materials (paint) instructions to the T, base coats and clears require the curing (flash) time to be adhered to. The great thing about painting especially small projects such as you have in mind. You can always repaint if you blow it.

What I do not like about painting ......... it seems to take for ever to get to the paint part, the climax of the adventure. Worked on a HotRod body for the better part of a year, was done with the primer too clear in about an hour, bummer the time spent laying down the color just went way to fast........... No matter welding is the same.

To close you can do it get the tools and get after it, a good painter is a very detailed orientated individual, get a sag or run, no problem sand smooth re shoot and clear, fixing the paint is another talent you will learn as you go.

Cheers,
Greg

 

[Chaznsc]

Assuming I made the jump and picked up a gun, whats a good all around paint to start with for smaller projects. I'm not painting a car, but what I described earlier.

Thanks for all the great input.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Assuming I made the jump and picked up a gun, whats a good all around paint to start with for smaller projects. I'm not painting a car, but what I described earlier.

Thanks for all the great input.

I've painted very sucessfully with Rustoleum. It is easy to thin and add hardner, goes on smooth, and is tough as nails.

I have done roll on painting with it, but many do a nice job with a gun.

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/f6-spraying

Jim

 

[Chaznsc]

I've painted very sucessfully with Rustoleum. It is easy to thin and add hardner, goes on smooth, and is tough as nails.

I have done roll on painting with it, but many do a nice job with a gun.

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/f6-spraying

Jim

Whats the secret formula on thinning for a gun? I remember the boss where I worked as a teenager was always cutting the paint down before he shot it.

Oh, and thank you for responding.

 

[creativecars]

I'll show my ignorance here and ask the difference and benefits of airless and "regular" air-driven painting. Forgive my terminology, I know nothing about it. I've heard people say "airless" is best. What's the deal? Does "airless" use no air at all?? Is is more difficult to learn, is one better than the other?

Your confusion is quite understandable.
A "regular" spray gun mixes air and the liquid paint, atomizes the paint droplets and the air cap makes it come out in a pattern.

An "airless" is a pump that pressurizes the liquid paint and it come out of the air cap as paint only, not a mix of paint/air. The air cap only guides the paint.

Imagine pouring paint into your power steering pump, taking off the pressure line and putting a sprayer nozzle on the end. When you start the motor it will pressurize the sprayer with pure paint (no air) and when you squeeze the nozzle, paint will come out. It’s not real complicated, but few people know how an airless sprayer works.
I have used industrial airless equipment and could spray 5 gallons of material in 20 minutes… Now that is putting some paint on.

 

[Chaznsc]

Your confusion is quite understandable.
A "regular" spray gun mixes air and the liquid paint, atomizes the paint droplets and the air cap makes it come out in a pattern.

An "airless" is a pump that pressurizes the liquid paint and it come out of the air cap as paint only, not a mix of paint/air. The air cap only guides the paint.

So, to continue the ignorance here, whats the benefit of either?

 

[creativecars]

Whats the secret formula on thinning for a gun? I remember the boss where I worked as a teenager was always cutting the paint down before he shot it.

Oh, and thank you for responding.

There is really no secret. Find the information on the side of the can or look it up on line and mix it to the proper ratio. Every mfg has their own way. It is not brain surgery, but you do want to understand proper techniques, mixing ratios, materials and equipment.
If all else fails... Read the directions...
Paint materials are too expensive to waste, and it is no fun to sand off screw ups from just guessing.

 

[Chaznsc]

There is really no secret. Find the information on the side of the can or look it up on line and mix it to the proper ratio. Every mfg has their own way. It is not brain surgery, but you do want to understand proper techniques, mixing ratios, materials and equipment.
If all else fails... Read the directions...
Paint materials are too expensive to waste, and it is no fun to sand off screw ups from just guessing.

Thanks so much for your helpful response. Is there a rule of thumb when buying paint in relation to coverage? For instance, if I know I'm painting a metal surface of ** total square feet, how much paint I should target in my purchase?

 

[JimVonBaden]

Whats the secret formula on thinning for a gun? I remember the boss where I worked as a teenager was always cutting the paint down before he shot it.

Oh, and thank you for responding.

http://www.spraytechsys.com/literature/wag_lit/wag_pdf/HVLP_training.pdf

Jim

 

[Chaznsc]

http://www.spraytechsys.com/literature/wag_lit/wag_pdf/HVLP_training.pdf

Jim

Jim,
Thank you...

 

[Beaumont67]

sorry - double post

 

[Beaumont67]

YES - YES - YES:
- but I had motivation to do it
- back in 1973 I needed a car with insufficient funds
- had a part time job in highschool
- used a good months summer wages, and bought some hand tools, plus a O/A torch (for brazing)

- luckly my part time jobs was painting factory's and one week I had to seal a cement cendar block outside bare wall, with sealer...using a sprayer
- that summer I painted my restored rust bucket 1966 Plymouth Valiant, after hand forming and fusion welding (braze) many patch panel, using a 1 hp cheap compressor...borrowed from my Uncle

Ten years later, I put out a nicer paint job than a local collision shop...all done in a tractor shed, with one light bulb and one small window...plus pulled the house garden house into the shop and entirely wet down the concrete floor...to keep dust down.

Respectful paint work on the cheap, is possible...but takes a LOVE for the finish result & searching for knowledge with the dedication to invest the time to learn & grow and by some equipment.


These old tools, my first sheetmetal hammer still my pride & joy:
- Purchased my first Snap-On BF604...new in 1973 for $55 (I believe)...always been my favorate tool...and a lot of money, 40 years ago.
Other unique auto body repair tools:
- My panel crimping Vice-Grips were purchased at Barry Automotive FleaMarket (~30 years ago) before the Eastwood company was born.
- A repair panel “adjustable patch holder”, auto body tool (aircraft aluminum tubing with ductile iron forked end)...vintage 1980, when autobody brazing was the norm, before mig welders were invented
- The really old lead body file, is still in like new NOS condition, paid $3 a few years ago...at a local garage sale

[/QUOTE]

 

[darkk]

I'm a retired body man/painter...I've taught many people body and paint skills over the many years. Some natural ability is required, anyone can learn to paint but few will be really good at it. Even fewer excell at it. If you have no one to teach you, watch a few videos on the basics, Read some, and practice, practice, practice. Go the HF and buy a cheap spray gun set. I don't care what anyone on this forum or others tell you. If the equipment you are using is functioning properly, the paint job qaulity is only as good as the man holding the gun. You do not need $100-$700 paint gun. A cheap $30-100 set will suffice, especially while learning. There is no magic paint gun....

 

[HellaFab]

Dont use rustoleum for paint if your trying to learn to do things right. LOL.

Go into your local auto body supply shop (i have a NAPA with their paint shop there) and tell them what you are doing and as what they reccomend. Most of the paint guys will know their stuff and be able to point you in the right direction.

I have used mostly Dupont line of paints and they have worked great. either single stage or base coat/clear coat jobs will work fine to learn on.

When doing car painting a very key step to getting a good finish after you prep the body is a quality wax and grease remover followed by a tack cloth immidiately prior to you spraying. I just painted an engine bay (pic below) that we had to do 4 passes with a wax and grease remover until i felt like the surface was ready for color. One of my tricks is that the second to last W&G remover i use a super fine scotchbrite lubricated with the W&G remover then wiped off with a clean shop rag.


Im only 25 and Im mostly self taught. You can do it... you will make a few mistakes or apply too much paint but you can sand it out and redo it until your content.

The best paint jobs are the ones with the thickest paint in the final coat without creating runs (and keeping metallic finishes even).

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I would say go for it if it is something you are interested in.....'cause I never expected to do any paint work and ended up being forced into it in my work on machinery. If a lug like me can get it, you probably can too! I despised it at first and thought for sure I would do just as well with house paint and roller as with and air gun and automotive products - I even made the jump to HVLP with no troubles. I have had pretty good success just by sticking to the "RTFB" rule -- read the friggin' book (instructions) and remembering that the quality of the finished product is about 90% prep and only 10% of putting on paint.

 

[rsanter]

A friend of mine wanted to paint his mustang to save some money. She he bought a cheap good running car that the paint was bad but the body was good. Prepped it and painted it to learn how.
Then he painted the mustang, color sanded it and cleared it.....came out pretty darn good

Years ago another friend painted his car in his driveway with laquor I think. Color sanded it to get rid of the dust and stuff that settled on it then buffed the car up and it looked like a shop did it.....college days, young, dumb, and not full of money

Bob

 

[SMKS]

To the OP-

I say go for it if you have the time and space to give it a shot. The only thing I'd do is take on a job that won't really matter if you screw it up. For example, a small project or a beater car so you won't be heartbroken if it looks terrible and needs to be redone.

And remember...

 

[JimVonBaden]

Don't forget, the OP is not talking about painting cars, but rather small objects around his shop and home, the largest being a gas pump, I assume a vintage one.

This means smaller easier painting, with less repercussions if mistakes are made. Sand and repaint for a bad run for example.

Jim

 

[mo2872]

Yes, you can!

My first experience with DIY paint:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2905814&postcount=48

 

[creativecars]

Thanks so much for your helpful response. Is there a rule of thumb when buying paint in relation to coverage? For instance, if I know I'm painting a metal surface of ** total square feet, how much paint I should target in my purchase?

There are several things that effect what you are trying to do. If you are painting something with a solid color vs. metallic color you can get away with less sprayable materials (paint, reducer, hardener). Paint is sold in pints, quarts and gallons. If I am painting something like a truck fender, motorcycle tins, 1 cabinet, workbench, or kids wagon I would get a pint. Truck bed side, bench & cabinet or 80 gal compressor I would go with a quart. Whole car, backhoe or tandem axle trailer gets a gallon.
The run down on automotive type materials goes like this.
Single stage paint does not require clear for protection. It is easier to spray metallic colors in two stage (base/clear) because you can concentrate on metallic lay out and you get the smooth shine with the clear. Base coat covers quickly, but you must clear to make a strong paint film. With single stage you need to get correct color and coverage and smooth layout all at the same time. What type of materials are you considering? What are you painting?
Bottom line is…. Yes you can do it. There is a lot of great information on line, youtube, books, video ect…