Can I please get some advice for safely changing this light fixture?

[balane]

This light came with our house when we bought it seven years ago. I don't know how old it is beyond that. It has issues, the lights flicker and that's when they work. We've tried new bulbs, no luck in fixing the issues.

We'd like to change it to a standard fixture.

There is a wall switch inside that turns it on and off. Our house came with an alarm system that we never use. The alarm had a battery backup (Looks like a motorcycle battery.) that has long been disconnected.

I want to remove it but I want to be safe about it and not get a shock if possible. If I cut the circuit to the light in the breaker box and flip the wall switch to off do you believe there will be no power to the fixture?

Do you believe there will be more than a normal amount of wires going to this fixture causing me some confusion when installing a standard light?

Thanks for any help or suggestions you can share.

 

[pattenp]

You'll be fine with cutting both the circuit and the light switch. The light should only be connected to two wires in the box along with a ground wire so you shouldn't have any problems with being confused.

 

[balane]

OK thanks. I'll cut the power to it and take it apart to see what's in there. If I run into anything abnormal I'll post again. This is my first time dealing with a security/motion style light.

 

[Sr. WiNdTeCh]

I just turn the light switch off, and if you think others may turn it on while your working just put a piece of tape over it so if they try to flick it on, their finger will just go over the switch, and they will say WTF, ooooohhh... wow that was close, and you will just laugh..

If you understand electricity and are not in a work environment where you have to do LOTO (Lock Out Tag Out) then you will be just fine with the switch off.

 

[balane]

 

[HOTFR8]

Some of those older security lights got affected by storms and lightning. if you are going to replace it with a new sensor type of light make sure the sensor is away from the light and perhaps protected more from the weather.

 

[larry_g]

For the inexperienced I would suggest that you go to the hardware store and get a new coverplate with gasket and two light sockets and two bulbs. Remove everything you have there except the box and the (hopefully) two wires coming into it. Assemble the lamp sockets into the cover as the old one is. Connect the white wires together with a wire nut. Connect the black wires together with a wire nut. Reinstall the cover on the box, put new lamps in the sockets. Turn on the breaker and flip the switch and with any luck you will have light.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Sr. WiNdTeCh]

For the inexperienced I would suggest that you go to the hardware store and get a new coverplate with gasket and two light sockets and two bulbs. Remove everything you have there except the box and the (hopefully) two wires coming into it. Assemble the lamp sockets into the cover as the old one is. Connect the white wires together with a wire nut. Connect the black wires together with a wire nut. Reinstall the cover on the box, put new lamps in the sockets. Turn on the breaker and flip the switch and with any luck you will have light.

lg
no neat sig line

Speaking of the wire nuts - I need to make a photo tutorial on the proper way to wire nut solid wire...

 

[CADPoint]

You should add these to the drawer!

The cost is 20 to 30 dollors, it is a non contact Cat III voltage tester. this will read 40 to 600 volts. There are less models this is the top of the line

Test the tester before using it on a known working circuit. read and understand how the tester works.

This one product can assure that a lamp holder is cold or that all the circuits in an electricial box are not on but in fact off.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You could keep the existing light fixture, by just taking the motion sensor out of the circuit. The switched 120vac power from the house goes to the motion sensor, and from there to the bulbs. Reconnect the switched 120vac power right to the bulbs. The motion sensor will still be hanging there but it will save you the cost of an all new fixture.

 

[Mattlt]

I just turn the light switch off, and if you think others may turn it on while your working just put a piece of tape over it so if they try to flick it on, their finger will just go over the switch, and they will say WTF, ooooohhh... wow that was close, and you will just laugh..

If you understand electricity and are not in a work environment where you have to do LOTO (Lock Out Tag Out) then you will be just fine with the switch off.

What if the light switch is at the end of the run? Taping the switch off is not going to do anything about the power present at the fixture.

Your suggestion only applies if the fixture is at the end of the run.

 

[thehazmatguy]

You should add these to the drawer!

The cost is 20 to 30 dollors, it is a non contact Cat III voltage tester. this will read 40 to 600 volts. There are less models this is the top of the line

Test the tester before using it on a known working circuit. read and understand how the tester works.

This one product can assure that a lamp holder is cold or that all the circuits in an electricial box are not on but in fact off.

Yeah, what he said! I have the cheap craftsman version, it was maybe $10 at most? Here's a nicer one: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_03482159000P

 

[bartels_metal_works]

Never assume the switch is all you need to turn off. I found several lights in my house that had the switch on the neutral not the hot. Luckily I have a non contact voltage tester(like shown above) and use it religiously.

 

[Kevin54]

Never assume the switch is all you need to turn off. I found several lights in my house that had the switch on the neutral not the hot. Luckily I have a non contact voltage tester(like shown above) and use it religiously.

I have one also, but get false readings once in a while. Invest in a multimeter. You can get one for $10 or so form any of the box stores. You don't need a high dollar Fluke to check electricity. I trust them over a "hot stick".

A multimeter is an invaluable instrument and really saves from getting shocked. Also invest in a pair of insulated wire cutters just in case. Of course if you want to take the lazy way out and not go back and forth killing breakers, just cut the wire and it will blow the breaker, then you know which one it is to mark for the next time Just kidding people, just kidding!!! A $10-$20 multimeter will give you AC/DC/ohms. And the Ohms comes in handy for home and auto. Mainly auto.

 

[bartels_metal_works]

I have one also, but get false readings once in a while. Invest in a multimeter. You can get one for $10 or so form any of the box stores. You don't need a high dollar Fluke to check electricity. I trust them over a "hot stick".

A multimeter is an invaluable instrument and really saves from getting shocked. Also invest in a pair of insulated wire cutters just in case. Of course if you want to take the lazy way out and not go back and forth killing breakers, just cut the wire and it will blow the breaker, then you know which one it is to mark for the next time Just kidding people, just kidding!!! A $10-$20 multimeter will give you AC/DC/ohms. And the Ohms comes in handy for home and auto. Mainly auto.

I actually test my Greenlee non-contact tester on an outlet known to have power. Do this every time I use it. I do agree on the multimeter, it is the better way to go.

 

[DoyleDee]

I just lick my finger and touch the wire to see if it's hot.........





lol.........(I have never done this, but saw an elevator man do it---and I was like WTF are you doing???) he said it didn't do anything but "tingle"....uhm, I don't think so for me..
and, by using the "hot stick" you can get electrocuted by those things....I don't trust them- I use my multimeter!