Can I plug my compressor into this?

[rartuin270]

Here are the details for my compressor motor. I can change the male plug to match if it will work.

I can switch an outlet and light fixture but that is about the extent of my electrical knowledge.

 

[rockchucker]

It says 230v on the tag for the Motor.

You should test the Voltage across the upper two Receptacles with a Multimeter and see if you get ~240v. Then test one of the uppers across to the lower one (ground) to see if you have ~120v. Repeat for the other one. If all checks out then you should be able to wire the 2 hot leads to the upper (angled) receptacles and the common/ground to the lower one.

 

[jhelrey]

Looks like an outlet for a stove...

 

[rockchucker]

It looks like the Amperage Rating for the Motor is 12 Amps. So check the Electrical Panel to make sure that there are either 2 - 15 Amp Breakers controlling the Circuit or one Double 30 Amp Breaker controlling the Circuit. If it pops the Breaker DO NOT JUST PUT A LARGER BREAKER IN! That Circuit and Outlet are only rated for 30 Amps.

 

[rockchucker]

Looks like an outlet for a stove...

More likely an outlet for a Dryer. Most stoves are rated at 40 Amps or larger.

 

[rartuin270]

I'll check into it tomorrow thanks.

 

[nehog]

It looks like the Amperage Rating for the Motor is 12 Amps. So check the Electrical Panel to make sure that there are either 2 - 15 Amp Breakers controlling the Circuit or one Double 30 Amp Breaker controlling the Circuit. If it pops the Breaker DO NOT JUST PUT A LARGER BREAKER IN! That Circuit and Outlet are only rated for 30 Amps.

Should never have two separate breakers controlling the circuit, should always be a double breaker. The breaker's purpose is to protect the circuit, not the device so the amperage matches the wire, not the load.

I doubt that that compressor motor will have any problems with a 20 amp breaker (12 AWG circuit), and absolutely will work with a 30 (10 AWG circuit) if that is what is in there.

 

[pattenp]

The quick unverified answer is yes. The receptacle is a 30A 250V. Look and see if the breaker in the panel for the circuit is a 2 pole 30A breaker. If it is then you're good to go. If the breaker is something other that a 30A 2 pole you need to get back with us.

 

[Norcal]

The quick unverified answer is yes. The receptacle is a 30A 250V. Look and see if the breaker in the panel for the circuit is a 2 pole 30A breaker. If it is then you're good to go. If the breaker is something other that a 30A 2 pole you need to get back with us.

Wrong, it is a 30A 125/250V dryer receptacle, which means it's a dual voltage non- grounding device, if the receptacle is wired correctly the "L" shaped slot is a neutral, not a grounding conductor. The photo shows the rating clearly.

 

[PRH44]

Norcal is correct this an older dryer 3 wire configuration. The neutral was permitted to act as an equipment grounding conductor also. This is no longer allowed if one would use it for a dryer it would need to be a 4 wire configuration to be updated to the current code.

You can use it it should work fine. The only thing is the white neutral conductor would be used as an equipment ground. Not exactly correct. Check the panel to see if the neutrals and grounds are seperated if so move the neutral in the cable over to the ground bar. you can reidentify with green tape on both ends along the exposed length of white wire.

If the neutrals and grounds are not seperated well thats another issue.

 

[Aceman]

This is no longer allowed if one would use it for a dryer it would need to be a 4 wire configuration to be updated to the current code.

Why does it have to be updated to current code to use it for a dryer?

 

[PRH44]

Only if you wanted to update your electrical system to meet the current code. You can let it stand and it would be grandfathered and work fine. My personal opinion is one should its not the safest setup hence the change in the code, but there a lot of existing installs that use the older configeration.

 

[pattenp]

Wrong, it is a 30A 125/250V dryer receptacle, which means it's a dual voltage non- grounding device, if the receptacle is wired correctly the "L" shaped slot is a neutral, not a grounding conductor. The photo shows the rating clearly.

Oh give me a break! I did see the 125/250V on the receptacle. I said it would work, I didn't say it was perfect and up to date by code standards. That's why I said "an unverified yes". I know, I should not give short half *** answers.

 

[pattenp]

Norcal is correct this an older dryer 3 wire configuration. The neutral was permitted to act as an equipment grounding conductor also. This is no longer allowed if one would use it for a dryer it would need to be a 4 wire configuration to be updated to the current code.

You can use it it should work fine. The only thing is the white neutral conductor would be used as an equipment ground. Not exactly correct. Check the panel to see if the neutrals and grounds are seperated if so move the neutral in the cable over to the ground bar. you can reidentify with green tape on both ends along the exposed length of white wire.

If the neutrals and grounds are not seperated well thats another issue.

I just assumed the dryer receptacle was off of a main panel and the neutral and ground were bonded.

 

[Gregishome]

I can switch an outlet and light fixture but that is about the extent of my electrical knowledge.



Hmmm, should statements like this ^^^^ from posters wanting electrical help, weigh in on how much info is given to them from the pros on here ?...

I see an answer telling the OP to get in the service panel and change the grounded conductor to a equipment ground, which was a good answer, if needed... But

My wife can change out fixtures and receptacles all day long and I trust her skills to do so, but I would not ask her to open up our 200 amp electrical service panel and start digging around in it. She has not had any experience in doing such work yet without supervision...

Not trying to start a flaming range war here, just curious where the lines should be drawn in the sand for us that are trying to help out on here.

 

[PRH44]

pattenp I was assuming the same. The dryer outlet was fed from a main panel. The ground and neutrals would be bonded togather, However they should be on seperate bus and bonded togather. This is not always done in many residential installs. No knock or rub intended. Sometimes the curious mind that likes to examine and understand things can get a little over the top.

Gregishome point very well taken. There are a varitey of levels as it relates to knowledge and expierence on the forum. Sometimes what may seem routine to one may be difficult and dangerous to another. It is easy to get more involved than the OP's experience level when discussing options. However one must understand his or her own ability when seeking advice. With all that said I will consider your statement seriously and be more sympathetic to the OP's needs and experience level.

 

[sberry]

I know a couple electrical inspectors that would say,,, just quit fukkin with it and plug it in. Ha. Seen a lot of **** 10x worse than this, almost daily if I get out and walk in to most stores.

 

[Norcal]

For existing installations the receptacle is still code compliant for a dryer , it's should be easy & fairly cheap to comply w/ the code by just changing the receptacle to a 30A 250V & swapping the neutral for the grounding conductor. It will work as is but why not do it right????

 

[sberry]

The main reason I can see for not making changes is the hazard of someone not confident in opening up a can and sticking their fingers in it outweighs the real risk of not doing anything especially if this circuit originates from a main service entrance panel for no gain. 2nd, and more importantly,,, you think there is another wire hiding in the cable that feeds this outlet anyway? Probably a 3 wire cable so there is nothing to be done. Only real good reason to change anything is if this was from a 4 wire subfed panel.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The only thing is the white neutral conductor would be used as an equipment ground. Not exactly correct. Check the panel to see if the neutrals and grounds are seperated if so move the neutral in the cable over to the ground bar. you can reidentify with green tape on both ends along the exposed length of white wire.

This is NOT a true statement. 250.119 says that equipment grounding conductors must be either bare wire or covered or insulated and if covered or insulated, they must be either green or green with one or more yellow stripes. Only if the ground conductor is larger than 6 AWG are you allowed (and required) to re-mark the ends and any other accessible sections of the wire.

Charles

 

[pattenp]

PRH44 is not making a statement to be challenged as true or false as it pertains to code. He was simply telling the OP what could be done. I didn't see where he implied remarking the white to green would meet code.

This is NOT a true statement. 250.119 says that equipment grounding conductors must be either bare wire or covered or insulated and if covered or insulated, they must be either green or green with one or more yellow stripes. Only if the ground conductor is larger than 6 AWG are you allowed (and required) to re-mark the ends and any other accessible sections of the wire.

Charles

 

[Charles (in GA)]

PRH44 is not making a statement to be challenged as true or false as it pertains to code. He was simply telling the OP what could be done. I didn't see where he implied remarking the white to green would meet code.

When offering information such as this, I'm a believer in forewarning the reader that it will "work" but is not up to code. Many of the readers here on GJ are concerned about not doing anything that is afoul of the NEC because of the possible problems with insurance, local fire dept, etc when the place burns down. Many of the readers truly do want it done right. (in my opinion) its OK to offer safe, but possibly not code legal, suggestions, but always warn the reader its not per code.

Just my opinion. I don't think anyone on here wants to be mislead.

Charles

 

[pattenp]

You are completely correct. And your point is well taken.

When offering information such as this, I'm a believer in forewarning the reader that it will "work" but is not up to code. Many of the readers here on GJ are concerned about not doing anything that is afoul of the NEC because of the possible problems with insurance, local fire dept, etc when the place burns down. Many of the readers truly do want it done right. (in my opinion) its OK to offer safe, but possibly not code legal, suggestions, but always warn the reader its not per code.

Just my opinion. I don't think anyone on here wants to be mislead.

Charles

 

[rartuin270]

Cool it guys. I discovered that outlet isn't even going to the panel. It's not hooked up. Super old house. I followed the line through the basement joists. I'll have to figure something else out.

 

[pattenp]

Yeah! We do get caught up in this electrical code stuff at times.