I have a Simplicity rear engine rider that I got for $200 but had to put a new clip on the axle. It was an excellent deal!! We had a lawn tractor but it seemed too big so we downsized. The Simplicity fits our needs very well it has baggers, twin blades, a tow hitch, and a hydrostatic ******. When we mow, we usually do it in the evenings so sometimes it gets dark out. In the fall, for leaf clean up, it's always dark after about 5pm. Now for the question: can we put headlights on the mower? It has a Diehard 12 volt battery for electric start but would the alternator in the engine be able to handle two headlights without killing the battery? Thanks!
Can I put Headlights on a Riding Mower?
- Thread starter JoeyMitch
- Start date
astroracer
Well-known member
I see no reason you can't. The alternator will put out much more current then the battery will need to stay charged. Just do it right and use a relay to power up the lights from the switch.
Mark
Mark
fflintstone
Well-known member
you cannot answer that question without knowing the output of the charging system.
IMO a lawnmower has a marginal charging system at best.
I would look at very low curent LED lights if it were me.
IMO a lawnmower has a marginal charging system at best.
I would look at very low curent LED lights if it were me.
I concur. Found this Chart that has some specs for some briggs engines. You will have to search out what your engine will generate and what your selected headlights will draw for current. Two big variables that have to be reconciled. Once you have all the numbers then the answer will be apparent.
lg
no neat sig line
mayday0017
Well-known member
Worst case you have to put it on a charger in the evenings... I am not sure how long it takes to cut your grass either but assuming it takes 45ish min of riding around the battery will most likely last that long on a full charge so even if the rider didn't have a charging system you could charge it when you arn't using it...
1950mercury
Well-known member
See if you can buy a lighting coil for the motor. I remeber as a kid the minibikes that had lights had special lighting coils
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
^^^this...
rsanter
Well-known member
I would use the low current LED lights or look at adding a larger or second alternator to the thing. Perhaps go to a cheap one wire alternator system and a little larger battery
Bob
Bob
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Get a couple LED flashlights with rechargeable batteries and strap them to the mower. A lot easier and probably less expensive than hard wired lights.
Scout Driver
Well-known member
x4 on LED headlights
Scott
Scott
Rhyno
Well-known member
Yes you can. Here is what I have done, on mine. My lights are a cheap Driving Light set, that I paid close to $20.
I had to fab some custom brackets to mount the lights. I also had to use a 4" hole saw to cut some pockets into the grill, and wire it up.
Don't listen to anybody that says "you don't need a Relay."
You can wire it without a relay, but you will have problems later, i.e. melted switch, melted wiring, etc.
The death of the battery can happen a few different ways. Lack of maintenance, Long and heavy draws of current, and heat are the typical ones.
Lights that are wired correctly, shouldn't produce this. My lights have been in effect for 12 years, and I have replaced the battery, once. (Every winter, I disconnect the battery, and put a maintenance charger on it in the spring, just prior to firing it up for the first of the season.)
After I am done mowing, not only do I let the machine have a cool down cycle, lowered RPMs in the parking spot, but it also recharges the lost voltage of the lights. My Amp Meter, barely hits 5amps, for less than 3 minutes, after the lights are turned off.
Good Luck.....
Show us the results....
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andywander
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2012
- Messages
- 359
From the photos, it looks like you added lights, to a lawn tractor that already had lights!
Rhyno
Well-known member
You are right. The factory bulbs just don't have enough Lumens or light output!
The factory bulbs are single element, 1156 or 1157 Automotive bulbs. They are great for orange marker lights, on a 78 GMC truck, though.
This is just wrong. How does a relay prevent melted wiring? A relay is a switch, or did that small detail go missing in your training. A manual switch rated for the current will be just fine. I love how some people bold their errors.
lg
no neat sig line
5mall5nail5
Well-known member
I want to put HID headlights in a Husqvarna YTH24K48
5mall5nail5
Well-known member
Larry - the difference is, the "switch" on the dash needs to be rated for the total current if you don't use a relay and that's not very safe should the switch short out, etc. If you use a relay, you can use simple 18 - 20 gauge wire to trigger the relay and only the relay source and output need to be heavy gauge.
Put another way, putting big amps through a high amperage switch can work but realize you're going to get a make/break arc at the switch and high current, if high enough, can cause injury and or fire should the person switching it become the path for ground or if the switch fails. I've seen guys run radiator fans through switches and when they go to turn them off the switch is quite hot.
The wrong part is asserting that a relay is required. Also assuming that a rear engined lawn mower has a dash is a bit of a stretch. There are plenty of switches that will handle the current. Just don't think that any switch off the wall at the discount auto store will do the job. Select your lights, then get wire, an inline fuse, and a switch all rated for the power and your off to the races.
lg
no neat sig line
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
That is only required if you have a magneto style ignition. If the motor has an electric starter, it likely has some simple charging system.
5mall5nail5
Well-known member
Trust me, I know. I build mil spec engine harness for standalone computer installation in high horsepower BMWs. But, the average guy needs a relay. And, on something like this, I'd rather run a relay because I have no idea what a lawn mower harness does anywhere - for all I know its chinese made 14 gauge insulation with 20 gauge aluminized copper - I don't know. Point is, for most people, a relay is a good safety measure and whether or not it's required is irrelevant as it's absolutely the "safer" way to go. I don't like flipping switches with 30A going through them. I've actually started using hella solid state relays.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
How I'd do it,
1. Go to auto parts store of choice
2. Buy a switch, cheap universal fog lights, wire, and connectors
3. wire it all up
We used car batteries to power simple 12v circuits in electronics class. They got charged once every six weeks. Pretty much the same thing here, it'll take forever to run down one of those batteries with a small circuit. Just make sure the wire is rated for the amps of the lights. Honestly I'd grab the 10 gage sitting there. Most of the switches they have around here are rated for 30 amps or more. It should say on the package. Pretty simple honestly, and so long as you're competent there's no need for a relay.
1. Go to auto parts store of choice
2. Buy a switch, cheap universal fog lights, wire, and connectors
3. wire it all up
We used car batteries to power simple 12v circuits in electronics class. They got charged once every six weeks. Pretty much the same thing here, it'll take forever to run down one of those batteries with a small circuit. Just make sure the wire is rated for the amps of the lights. Honestly I'd grab the 10 gage sitting there. Most of the switches they have around here are rated for 30 amps or more. It should say on the package. Pretty simple honestly, and so long as you're competent there's no need for a relay.
A relay would be beneficial if adding higher-power lights to a lawn tractor that already has lights. As was noted previously, you run the risk of burning up the factory switch. Far better in my opinion is to add LED lights. On my tractor, the headlights are rated a mighty 3W. Three Watts. That tells me that's about all the alternator will handle, plus running the ignition and recharging the battery. You can get about 10 times the light for the power with LED's. Check out Superbrightleds.com Lots of choices, and easy to fab up replacements for factory lights. As long as you stick to factory power consumption, no need to change switch, wiring, anything.
My choice is not to mow at night, but to each his own.
My choice is not to mow at night, but to each his own.
Displaced Hokie
Well-known member
I suspect your engine has an unregulated charging system that probably puts out @ 3 amps at full throttle. RER's are not known to have premium charging systems.
The rule of thumb with these charging systems is that for every one SECOND of engine cranking time when starting, it takes one MINUTE of run time at full throttle to replace that charge in the battery. Also keep in mind these little batteries don't have a lot of reserve.
I'd find some LED lights, wire them up, and see how it goes. Use a trickle charger if needed. Forget all the relay talk by using the low amp LED's.
The rule of thumb with these charging systems is that for every one SECOND of engine cranking time when starting, it takes one MINUTE of run time at full throttle to replace that charge in the battery. Also keep in mind these little batteries don't have a lot of reserve.
I'd find some LED lights, wire them up, and see how it goes. Use a trickle charger if needed. Forget all the relay talk by using the low amp LED's.
I don't have words to use to convey how much that impresses me. I only have 40 some years of experience to rely on. I really can't recall a rig that I have worked on that has a relay in the light circuit. Some don't even have a dimmer switch.
But who am I to disagree with someone who builds milspec BMW's.
lg
no neat sig line
Givl Reggin
Banned
It has taken 20 some post for someone to get it right! This isn't rocket science; switch, lights and wire are all you'll need. There's no need to over-think or over-engineer it.
scarney1988
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 13, 2013
- Messages
- 508
Now servicing 5mall5nail5. Please stand up
V=IR will be your friend in this matter for the OP. Find out your max output of your current charging system. Find bulb(s) which will draw an amount of current which is beneath your max output and wire them in with properly rated wire and control devices. Above all, make sure the supply voltage is FUSED to prevent melted components.
This link will help you choose an appropriate AWG.
Good luck.
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trbomax
Well-known member
My 1973 Ford LGT 165 came with headlights,tail lights, and no relay. They still work and I still mow with it now,bought it new. The 16 hp Kohler keeps the battery at full charge too.
Rhyno
Well-known member
You obviously have knowledge and experience, thanks for the support of my post that was to help the OP (JoeyMitch) put some fool proof lights, on his mower.
Unfortunately, my post wasn't Fool-Proof, enough.
It's O.K., if you don't want to run a relay.....There's a really good chance that your new lighting system will fail. But when it does, just remember that somebody warned you......
We, at least myself and a few others are here to help out JoeyMitch and his current situation, and to do it on the cheap, with easily found parts, and to be functional.
Good luck, JoeyMitch. Keep us up to date on your project.
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Rhyno
Well-known member
Yes, he can just go to Napa and buy a high amp switch for $25-$35......
Pretty accurate and good advice.....
He probably doesn't have the time, the experience, or the extra money to do it this way, that will put out some Lumens, and "not burn down."
This is a $200 mower.......
....and a ridiculous argument.....Good luck, JoeyMitch. Keep us up to date on your project.
Rhyno
Well-known member
Now servicing 5mall5nail5. Please stand up
V=IR will be your friend in this matter for the OP. Find out your max output of your current charging system. Find bulb(s) which will draw an amount of current which is beneath your max output and wire them in with properly rated wire and control devices. Above all, make sure the supply voltage is FUSED to prevent melted components.
This link will help you choose an appropriate AWG.
Good luck.
Great advice and links......
Lol. Lets assume he puts in some whopper 55w lights (x2) that's only 7.64 amps. Your average garbage doo doo butter 3 dollar toggle/rocker is rated for atleast 16amps.
For the sake of simplicity and saving money, id just run it off a switch. Its a freakin mower. People often use relays when they're not needed. Most cars up until recently ran there headlights off the damn flipper on the column.
The only important question is whether the charging system can handle the extra draw.
Flame on.
For the sake of simplicity and saving money, id just run it off a switch. Its a freakin mower. People often use relays when they're not needed. Most cars up until recently ran there headlights off the damn flipper on the column.
The only important question is whether the charging system can handle the extra draw.
Flame on.
Alright guys thanks for the advice. My main concern is what kind of lights to use and if it will drain the battery. I've wired a few boats when I worked at a marina and There were no relays needed, they all had inline fuses and fuses on a panel. I am not looking to spend more than $30 on lights considering we got the mower for $200. It was such an awesome deal that we want to keep it that way.
Thanks for the advice everyone and I'll let you know if I follow through!!!
Thanks for the advice everyone and I'll let you know if I follow through!!!
j.c.whitney
Well-known member
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?86-Bicycle
There are many low cost/hassle solutions in the link.
There are many low cost/hassle solutions in the link.
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stratman977
Well-known member
Just for a point of reference those fog lights are normally 55 watts a piece at 12volt which comes out to 4.6 amps each light. Assuming you install two that's around 9 amps.
My kohler engine has a charging system that's rated at 15 amps. It would be ok at the stock 35 watt headlights but if you used two 55watt fog lights it would eventually drain the battery. The ignition uses juice and I had several 4 way flashers. (This was my snow plow tractor.)
Those 8 or 10 hp L head briggs engines usually have a magneto ignition with a separate battery charging coil so you won't stall out if the battery dies but those charging systems are pretty wimpy maybe 5 amps at best.
My kohler engine has a charging system that's rated at 15 amps. It would be ok at the stock 35 watt headlights but if you used two 55watt fog lights it would eventually drain the battery. The ignition uses juice and I had several 4 way flashers. (This was my snow plow tractor.)
Those 8 or 10 hp L head briggs engines usually have a magneto ignition with a separate battery charging coil so you won't stall out if the battery dies but those charging systems are pretty wimpy maybe 5 amps at best.
The Ratchet Man
Well-known member
Are we developing a lighting system for NASA or putting lights on a mower?
All the major auto stores have light kits (halogen or led per your preference) in your price range. They come with the wiring harness, switch, relay (if necessary) and connectors. Wire it up and roll on.
I have 2 55w halogen lights mounted on each side of a Troybilt Bronco so I can see the sides of the deck in the dark. It has a Kohler motor if it matters. Been rolling like this for a couple of years and never killed the battery. It is hooked up to a battery maintainer after use though, but I've never had a dead battery during operation. This is not a high end mower by the way.
I have LED lights mounted around my 4wheeler for night riding. It has a better charging system so no point to be proven there. I do prefer the LEDs over the halogen due to much less power use as mentioned above. You could have multiple LED sets and still use less power than 1 halogen light.
Most halogen kits will come with a relay. Use the relay because the switch that comes with the kit is not rated for direct wiring.
LED kits in your price range will not require a relay.
None of these kits are currently rated for NASA missions though so YMMV.
All the major auto stores have light kits (halogen or led per your preference) in your price range. They come with the wiring harness, switch, relay (if necessary) and connectors. Wire it up and roll on.
I have 2 55w halogen lights mounted on each side of a Troybilt Bronco so I can see the sides of the deck in the dark. It has a Kohler motor if it matters. Been rolling like this for a couple of years and never killed the battery. It is hooked up to a battery maintainer after use though, but I've never had a dead battery during operation. This is not a high end mower by the way.
I have LED lights mounted around my 4wheeler for night riding. It has a better charging system so no point to be proven there. I do prefer the LEDs over the halogen due to much less power use as mentioned above. You could have multiple LED sets and still use less power than 1 halogen light.
Most halogen kits will come with a relay. Use the relay because the switch that comes with the kit is not rated for direct wiring.
LED kits in your price range will not require a relay.
None of these kits are currently rated for NASA missions though so YMMV.
Let's not forget lawnmowers travel much slower than cars so the lights required only need to illuminate about a 30' area so you can see where you've been and what's in front of you. Probably a back-up light is about the right pattern.