Can I remove the diagonal bracing?

[varotene]

I am trying to add an interior wall for my garage. But I am seeing two diagonal bracings on my left wall(see pic). It makes me hard to install the wall. I have to put another layer of stud on existing stud so I can have a flat surface. So I am considering removing it.
Left wall
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=997719&stc=1&d=1586725559

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=997720&stc=1&d=1586725595

On the other wall(right wall), the bracings are embedded:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=997721&stc=1&d=1586725657

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=997722&stc=1&d=1586725657

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=997723&stc=1&d=1586725657

I read the other post(https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-255371.html), it seems it's safe to remove the interior let-in brace if I have a inlet brace. But seems I dont' have another inlet brace. Can I remove it? Do I need to add additional structure support?


For the wall, I choose drywall now since it's easier to install(no need for circular saw) and paints look nicer. I also read that plywood can provide the structural strength the brace provided as well. I don't see good tutorials on plywood paint though.

 

[bczygan]

Use a metal brace cut into the studs.

Bill

 

[rusty1]

...replace those wood ones with a good metal strap, pole buildings sometimes use em, about 1 1/2 x 3/16th " thick, drywall rite over them

 

[SALIV8]

I would leave it and add 2x’s as needed and where I will attach the drywall. Might even get better insulation value with the extra depth.

 

[harley jim]

Cut 2x4s and put them in the wall like the horizontal 2x4s are. You could remove a couple of them also with no problem

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[PassnThru]

With all of the horizontal bracing already in there then what is the point of the diagonal bracing?
It must be an older building because I haven't seen anyone use that kind of bracing on a 16" center stud wall on modern construction.
If you are concerned and want drywall then you can use OSB to sheath the inside which will keep it from racking and then put the drywall over the OSB.

 

[Firebrick43]

It appear your garage has homosote board on the outside which is non structural. So the diagonal brace is required unless replaced with something else. Plywood or osb would be the best and it could be painted(some like it I do not) or drywall placed over the osb.

Also cutting in a metal strap is perfectly acceptable.

I would not do as Harley Jim shows as toenailing a board between studs has no strength in tension which is what is needed. Fasteners must be in shear not in tension.

 

[Mick56]

I let in a 1 x 4 when I built years ago, it was called wind bracing.

 

[kbs2244]

It is code required wind bracing, needed when the outside sheathing is non structural.

As said, replacing it with structural inside paneling would be the easiest thing.

 

[egdede]

^^^ This ^^^ See that Structural plywood thread ; )

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448891

Inset diagonal blocking really does nothing to stop racking. As I understand it, the 1X6 doesn't do that much more. In CA "structural 1" plywood is often specified. I could not find structural 1 rated for "exterior" exposure. The "exposure 1" shouldn't be filled with insulation on exterior foundation cripple walls because of this. Specifically, the glue in "exposure 1" soaks up water and plywood which can possibly be exposed to moisture should left exposed to facilitate drying.

So, I'd just use 1/2 or 5/8 CDX rated for "exterior" for better resistance to inadvertent water intrusion. 40 years ago an engineer told me that 1/4 plywood was 10x better than diagonal blocking.

So the skinny: Just cover the interior with exterior CDX plywood.

 

[RTBS]

I would remove the brace and if you don't have wood sheathing {OSB or Plywood) on the other face of the wall add it to the inside face of the wall then you could cover that with Gyp board to paint if you want a finished wall. Use 7/16 wood sheathing. Much easier than cutting in a brace and much stronger.

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[tarmy]

Take them out and plywood the wall for shear...it will be stronger too. Nice new even surface to work from then too...

 

[varotene]

Thanks guys!

I think using plywood as a first layer for the interior is the most sturdy solution(then cover with drywall if necessary).

Also metal strip and inlet 2X4s can also work great.

I will take a further look to see which one fits me best. I am new to this type of wood work, so I would choose a relatively simpler(yet works well) solution.

 

[CraigStu]

The support walls in my 1 year old unfinished basement had the same thing on all of them. I was in the same boat as you wanting to finish one of the walls to hang tools on. A friend who has a lot of experience but is not a professional recommended remove and osb. So that's what I did. I am not an engineer but I think this might actually be stronger.

 

[brownbagg]

thats the old way, today they just put plywood on the corners

 

[tarmy]

Thanks guys!

I think using plywood as a first layer for the interior is the most sturdy solution(then cover with drywall if necessary).

Also metal strip and inlet 2X4s can also work great.

I will take a further look to see which one fits me best. I am new to this type of wood work, so I would choose a relatively simpler(yet works well) solution.

Make sure you use rated plywood for the shear...HD has it...used to be 5/8 or there about...it will have a stamp on it indicating it...same with OSB.

 

[bczygan]

...replace those wood ones with a good metal strap, pole buildings sometimes use em, about 1 1/2 x 3/16th " thick, drywall rite over them

THIS IS THE QUICKEST, EASIEST AND LEAST EXPENSIVE SOLUTION!

I put that in all caps to get everyone's attention. As a builder and designer, this is what is done. You cut a diagonal saw kerf and set it in to the studs and face nail it into each one.

Nothing else needed.

Bill

 

[rayra]

Aint that hard to shim a wall. You could do it in a couple hours, including relocating any boxes to be flush with the new wall surface.
Besides if that's an exterior wall it would become thick enough to put R19 in it.

 

[3onthetree]

On the left wall just leave the diagonals mounted on top of the studs - because you have conduit on top as well, so eliminating it to kerf cut a metal T brace in gets you nowhere - you still cannot mount your wall finish flush to the studs. So furr out your studs with either horizontal strapping or match the studs and hide all of it.

BTW the right side angle blocks between studs are not bracing. Bracing must be continuous from top plate to bottom, in a diagonal.

P.S. I also feel that way when I build walls.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It is code required wind bracing, needed when the outside sheathing is non structural.

A building will "rack" (top of the wall will shift relative to the bottom) when "non-continuous" sheathing (like boards/siding instead of plywood/OSB) is used.

 

[varotene]

On the left wall just leave the diagonals mounted on top of the studs - because you have conduit on top as well, so eliminating it to kerf cut a metal T brace in gets you nowhere - you still cannot mount your wall finish flush to the studs. So furr out your studs with either horizontal strapping or match the studs and hide all of it.

BTW the right side angle blocks between studs are not bracing. Bracing must be continuous from top plate to bottom, in a diagonal.

P.S. I also feel that way when I build walls.

Then this garage seems so weird. Left side has two thin piece of bracing and the other side doesn't(as you mentioned, it's not continuous). I don't know if the exterior wall is plywood/osb that can be counted as providing anti-rack support.

 

[varotene]

I am planning to one 2X4s or plywodd/osb on top of existing stud so that I don't have to remove the diagonal bracing. Then on top of them, add one drywall.

Stud -> Plywood/Stud -> Drywall

And then i see a couple of wires conduit and utility box. Was wondering how should I deal with these outlets and wires? The box seems pretty thick. Even if I add another layer of plywood, it's still higher than the plywood layer. Do I need to cut the stud so it can be flat with the drywall?


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