nso123
Well-known member
I really hate removing millscale before welding. That is all.
Can I say that I hate millscale?
- Thread starter nso123
- Start date
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
I use muriatic acid to clean millscale off steel tubes or angle iron. 10 mins in the solution and it strips the millscale right off. Much easier/cheaper than grinding discs or flap discs.
Remove from acid bath, dunk in baking soda solution to neutralize acid, dry off and you're good to weld.
You shouldn't leave it in for too long to avoid hydrogen embrittlement but I think you'd have to leave it in for a very long time to run into that problem.
Remove from acid bath, dunk in baking soda solution to neutralize acid, dry off and you're good to weld.
You shouldn't leave it in for too long to avoid hydrogen embrittlement but I think you'd have to leave it in for a very long time to run into that problem.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Why do you guys consider mill scale such an issue when welding?
Frank The Plumber
Well-known member
Millscale? Is that the dorky kid on the Simpsons?
BigMike782
Well-known member
ER70S6 is your friend when welding steel with millscale or light rust.
koditten
Well-known member
If its sheet for a welding table-top why remove? If you are welding the legs to the top just remove in weld area. You can leave it on the top itself and you will eventually wear through it from working on it over the years.
JoeMayo
Well-known member
I'm in welding school right now and hate it too.. Spend 30mins a day just grinding the **** clean.
Unless you're building a fab table that's going to be FLAT FLAT FLAT millscale is actually nice to have on a welding table. Keeps the rust at bay.
Acid works. The people who talk about welding through it obviously never pick up a TIG torch...
Acid works. The people who talk about welding through it obviously never pick up a TIG torch...
bggrnchvy
Well-known member
All I do is mig, but I hate the millscale as much as the next guy. Hard to source DOM without it around here and the puddle doesn't flow near as well if it's still on there.
sberry
Banned
I would have to respond to that,, if a guy is tig torching some legs on a bench he hasn't got much better to do an is probably a chronic mental masturbater.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
ZTFab
Well-known member
I have 3 tables/benches in my shop that are all TIG welded as well as my mobile bandsaw base.
bad_idea
Well-known member
Well, I guess that makes you a chronic mental masturbater.
Or the best TIG weldor I've ever seen, hands down.
If you don't practice you can't perfect...
Frank The Plumber
Well-known member
Use it or lose it.
bad_idea
Well-known member
Are you referring to the mill-scale Frank?
BD1
Well-known member
Just stick rod with 5P 6010
ZTFab
Well-known member
Thanks, I sincerely appreciate that compliment.
I believe Frank is referring to practicing a skill like TIG welding. Being a perishable skill like most others if you don't use it you lose it.
I'll be back in about 10 hours...I've gotta go jerk-off in my shop all day.
bad_idea
Well-known member
LOL. I do hope you realize I only jest. I have seen your welds ZTFab and respect them.
As far as mill-scale, I find the sand blaster is the best solution. I am growing to despise an angle grinder.
As far as mill-scale, I find the sand blaster is the best solution. I am growing to despise an angle grinder.
ZTFab
Well-known member
sberry
Banned
There is a time and place for scale removal but for general work its usually a waste of time. Same for tig, there are times its the right thing but its a last resort in my shop. Cleaning can be a reason I might grab a new piece of steel vs used even but not all the worlds work has to be done at that level. For general fabrication the mig is the tool of choice and most of it doesnt have the mill scale ground off.
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sberry
Banned
I could get by in life without a tig and if I really had to slide most of the way thru with only a mig machine. Heck there might be only a hand full of things on a Nascar that really need to be tigged, for a custom guy specializing like ZTfab its ideal, needed, he can sell it.
I don't like to leave the impression that its a must have in every shop, even as diversified as mine is it wouldn't be worth the investment on rare occasions, have someone do it. I do have tig but the same bottle feeds a spool gun which I do use on occasion,,, I have 25K ft of aluminum piping, hundreds of fittings and a couple other things in rugged service with aluminum frames, if it wasn't for that I probably wouldn't bother unless I was hanging out my shingle. I use a few sticks for quick work on implements, portable, but 95% of it is mig, 90% of that is a simple 175 class machine with 030 solid and if its worth the time effort/cost will flip the switch to a 250 with 035 which is about twice as fast if a guy has to weld for more than a minute on anything thicker than sheet metal.
I don't like to leave the impression that its a must have in every shop, even as diversified as mine is it wouldn't be worth the investment on rare occasions, have someone do it. I do have tig but the same bottle feeds a spool gun which I do use on occasion,,, I have 25K ft of aluminum piping, hundreds of fittings and a couple other things in rugged service with aluminum frames, if it wasn't for that I probably wouldn't bother unless I was hanging out my shingle. I use a few sticks for quick work on implements, portable, but 95% of it is mig, 90% of that is a simple 175 class machine with 030 solid and if its worth the time effort/cost will flip the switch to a 250 with 035 which is about twice as fast if a guy has to weld for more than a minute on anything thicker than sheet metal.
sberry
Banned
There are so manty questions on here about right/good machines and generally for the hobby / maintenance3 crowd if you got to ask these compact 240V mig units like the 211 or the Hobarts are for you. More than likely followed by a DC buzzer, or inverter these days,, if you have equipment to maintain. For this 2 rods, I personally like 6011 over 10 a fuzz better, the arc stabilizers help a bit over paint and a couple sizes of 7018. Not counting some misc alloy its the only rods we stock.
If a guy has AC only machine, some 1/8 6011 and 3/32, 1/8 7018AC.
If a guy has AC only machine, some 1/8 6011 and 3/32, 1/8 7018AC.
sberry
Banned
With the 7018AC the puddle is a bit more "loose" than it is on DC, you need to weave it as least some on vert up. The 3/23 helps a bit with this especially on lighter materials. If you got enough heat to melt and get enough on even a goobbed together job can be strong. The mechanical properties of this electrode are very good, very tough, fatigue resistant,,, followed by 6011, 10 and behind with the famous 6013 and 7014.