Can I use Oscillating Multi-Tool to cut tree roots?

[qqzj]

If so, which type of blades? Any suggestions? Does it use up blades super fast?

I am thinking about this tool
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VBB55X5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I always thought I need a recip saw to cut roots. However, when I dig a round trench around the tree, I can only expose the top of the roots. I do not have space to put the recip saw parallel to the ground to cut the root. (May I can dig a wider trench for that?) So I am thinking whether a multi tool can do that? Thanks for advice.

 

[GeoBruin]

Most certainly. Plunge cutting is among the best uses for an OMT. A regular pvc/2x4 blade of your chosen width will work nicely.

 

[RTM]

Or use a hatchet. I have a dedicated one for dirt work.

 

[nieuport17]

I would use a sawall.

 

[toolchaser]

You could, but a recip saw with a blade designed for root cutting would be quicker & last longer, + the longer ones keep you from having to get down in the dirt to work. With oscillating tools the piece you're cutting can't have any movement or it dampens the oscillation of the cutting tool by moving with the blade

 

[Parrothead]

I would use a sawall.

You could, but a recip saw with a blade designed for root cutting would be quicker & last longer, + the longer ones keep you from having to get down in the dirt to work. With oscillating tools the piece you're cutting can't have any movement or it dampens the oscillation of the cutting tool by moving with the blade

I keep older recip blades specifically for this use. They take longer to cut but still do the job.

 

[mrjaw14]

I’m removing a stump now. The Milwaukee AX carbide pruning blade is awesome. I got the 12” version and you can jam it in the dirt up to the saw foot and really get on with it. Cut for several hours on a big stump and the blade is still sharp like new

 

[mcspeed]

If so, which type of blades? Any suggestions? Does it use up blades super fast?

I am thinking about this tool
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VBB55X5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I always thought I need a recip saw to cut roots. However, when I dig a round trench around the tree, I can only expose the top of the roots. I do not have space to put the recip saw parallel to the ground to cut the root. (May I can dig a wider trench for that?) So I am thinking whether a multi tool can do that? Thanks for advice.

I think you will be disappointed with the performance for root cutting purposes. Blades will dull quickly when they hit dirt.

Carbide tipped sawzall blade is what I use.

Sawzall, hackzall or loppers will perform better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sz0k30]

Stick with the recip saw. It doesn't care if the blade is in dirt and it sure doesn't have to be horizontal. Just jab it in & start cutting.

 

[classic70]

Sharpe axe

 

[cmandp]

The Oscillating saws can be pretty slow to cut. They would be a poor choice for root cutting plus the blades are fairly expensive and don't last that long cutting clean wood. They are really a more precise use tool.

They are great for plunge cutting, undercutting molding for flooring and flush cutting. There's more like scraping and cutting grout but I haven't used one for that yet.

 

[Gunfixr]

I suppose you can, but I don't recall ever seeing any blades for those coarse enough that it wouldn't take forever.
An axe, or, if you don't want to work that hard, a reciprocating saw. As mentioned, it does not have to be horizontal.

There's a reason the sawzall is called the "tool of the gods"

 

[M6erfan]

Sure. You can also dig around the roots with a chopstick

 

[qqzj]

I see. So the saw blade can be jabbed into the dirt without significantly decreasing blade life? Just want to be sure.

I want a single hand, easy to control, light saw. Dewalt has dcs369 and dcs367. Is 367 much better? Any other suggestions? Thanks. Any dewalt carbide saw blades to recommend? Any cheaper blades from ryobi or harbor freight etc will work?
I

I suppose you can, but I don't recall ever seeing any blades for those coarse enough that it wouldn't take forever.
An axe, or, if you don't want to work that hard, a reciprocating saw. As mentioned, it does not have to be horizontal.

There's a reason the sawzall is called the "tool of the gods"

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Gunfixr]

You get one of hard blades, that will cut nails and such, it should last a good while. Yes, dirt is abrasive, but pressure is required for grinding action, and dirt won't apply much pressure. A cheap blade would work, but wear faster, so it becomes a question of price vs amount of work accomplished.

I only have two reciprocating saws, an ac powered milwalkee industrial sawzall, and a cordless ryobi saw.
The milwalkee is heavy.
The ryobi is light, and is fine for light work.
Haven't handled or used the others. If you already have a number of same brand cordless tools, i'd get that brand to maintain battery commonality.

 

[rlitman]

...I always thought I need a recip saw to cut roots. However, when I dig a round trench around the tree, I can only expose the top of the roots. I do not have space to put the recip saw parallel to the ground to cut the root...

A few issues here.

First, oscillating multi-tools don't oscillate that much. Even the highest angle versions like the Fein SuperCut only move a few degrees. When you're cutting green wood (which roots are), you need a lot of motion to clear the chips or else your blade will clog and stop cutting efficiently. I just don't see a multi-tool being good for this job.

As for a sawzall, that's exactly the right tool. As pointed out above, the carbide tipped pruning blades are what you want. Carbide won't dull as it plows through the earth. Don't worry about running the saw parallel to the ground, just plunge the blade into the ground and avoid bumping the tip into things that may bend it.

Two tips though.

1) Turn your blade upside down. Running the handle backwards (which is possible in all modern reciprocating saw blade chucks) improves your access in tight spaces.

2) Keep the saw out of the dirt. The "piston" behind the blade passes through a bushing (or linear bearing) that keeps it from wobbling too much. Dirt ingested here will loosen the fit and slowly kill your saw.

 

[yatg]

I want a single hand, easy to control, light saw. Dewalt has dcs369 and dcs367. Is 367 much better? Any other suggestions? Thanks. Any dewalt carbide saw blades to recommend? Any cheaper blades from ryobi or harbor freight etc will work?

The DCS369 has the battery at the end of the saw which gives it a slimmer profile. Might have better balance be easier to maneuver. And its "Atomic".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082BTT92H/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[qqzj]

Thanks for all the replies here. I use DeWalt stuff. So that part is easy. Just need to find a good carbide tipped pruning blade. This is a one-off job for me. So if the blade is gone after this one job, I am perfectly fine. The easiest-to-find one is this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-...ng-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-DS1203CP/301697673

Is it a good choice? Any thing cheaper and still works fine? For this job, I should choose the shortest blade, 6'', right?

 

[subroc]

Out of all the tools I have here, the very last one I would add to the pile to take out or cut roots on a stump is an oscillating multi tool. The pile would start with a spade shovel, an entrenching tool, a small hatchet, a large axe, a chain saw and a reciprocating saw. I would also add a length of chain or cable to wrap around the stump and hook up to the ball on the truck to have a little mechanical assistance.

What part of stump removal do you believe needs an oscillating tool to be successful?

How big is this tree, stump or root anyway?

Now if you just want to add an oscillating tool to your tool kit and need a reason to buy one then by all means use root cutting as a reason but there are a lot of better tools to do that sort of job.

BTW, for a stump or 2 hand work and hand held tools are surely acceptable but if we are clearing several maybe a back hoe is a better alternative.

 

[GeoBruin]

Out of all the tools I have here, the very last one I would add to the pile to take out or cut roots on a stump is an oscillating multi tool. The pile would start with a spade shovel, an entrenching tool, a small hatchet, a large axe, a chain saw and a reciprocating saw. I would also add a length of chain or cable to wrap around the stump and hook up to the ball on the truck to have a little mechanical assistance.

What part of stump removal do you believe needs an oscillating tool to be successful?

How big is this tree, stump or root anyway?

Now if you just want to add an oscillating tool to your tool kit and need a reason to buy one then by all means use root cutting as a reason but there are a lot of better tools to do that sort of job.

BTW, for a stump or 2 hand work and hand held tools are surely acceptable but if we are clearing several maybe a back hoe is a better alternative.

This thread is hilarious and it's so very Garage Journal in nature. The guy asked a specific question about a specific use for a specific tool based on his understanding of the problem and somehow we've gone from oscillating multi tool to backhoe.

 

[subroc]

This thread is hilarious and it's so very Garage Journal in nature. The guy asked a specific question about a specific use for a specific tool based on his understanding of the problem and somehow we've gone from oscillating multi tool to backhoe.

Clearly in that gem of an answer was a request for additional information.

 

[The FIB]

I use a mattock (sharpened with a grinder), works great. I feel like there is a lot more control and power when using a mattock instead of an axe.

 

[GeoBruin]

Clearly in that gem of an answer was a request for additional information.

Or rather a declaration that the poster did not read the original question. Otherwise they would know that the OP is not trying to remove a stump but just dig a trench around a tree that requires cutting roots. Also they added information that they can only access the roots from the top. This likely means they're not willing to dig further to expose more of the root or dig a larger hole which would make it convenient to use a reciprocating saw. Others in the thread have said that they would just allow the tip of the recip saw blade to punch into the dirt. I would personally be worried about hitting a rock or another root and damaging the blade. That's why I initially simply answered the OP's question that yes an oscillating multi tool what work with the appropriate blade. I also think it would be a lot quicker than many in this thread seem to believe.

 

[Ralf11]

pressure wash the thing until the roots are clean

 

[Deker]

I recently removed about 15 or so bushes and small trees from our property. I found the most useful tool by far is a 6 ft digging bar. A few strikes with the chisel end will sever the roots, and you can use its length to pry things around and loosen them up.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Truper-Tru-Pro-72-in-Pencil-point-Digging-Bar/3055439

 

[toddmorr]

Well OP, if you do decide to go the multi tool route you gotta promise to come back and give us all the drama on how it went

Sent from my SM-G970U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Al Borland]

Cheap electric chainsaw. HD for replacement chains.
Consider it a consumable.

 

[redmondjp]

What's the over/under on this tree dying prematurely due to too many roots being cut?

 

[mcspeed]

Be aware of buried pipes and cables. Axes and shovels amongst other power tools will damage sprinkler system components. Being an irrigation contractor, it’s very profitable LOL!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[_Riddle]

Just tried cutting up buried tree roots with my M18 multi tool and it worked great but dulled the blade pretty quickly. Much faster than the pick axe.

 

[Bubba Fett]

Or use a hatchet. I have a dedicated one for dirt work.

Same here. I've been digging trenches, and a hatchet seems to be the best way to deal with roots.

 

[qqzj]

Hi boys, just finished the job and I thought it is a good idea to circle back and wrap up the thread. Probably to the great disappointment if the GJ community, I bought neither a multi tool nor a sawzall. Instead, I get the job done with a good old wide saw and a 2.5 lbs pick mattock. After hacking at the stump 4 afternoons and about 4 hours, I declare myself the ultimate victor!

Since this is my first time removing a stump, and possibly last time, I really don't want to spend a single dollar extra on this project. Also, I am a lot less fond of garden tools, relative to auto mechanic tools. So I just bought a pick mattock from HD. I am very happy that I bought the 2.5 lbs one, even a 5lbs one with higher quality was selling for less. This time I let my sense dominated my sensibility and it was a good call. Maneuverability turned out much more important than heft in my case. A smaller tool is a lot easier to wield around the roots.

Also given the old saw, a pick mattock was the better tool than a Pulaski, IMHO. The key to remove the stump is to get underneath the roots once a decent trench is dug. Here the pick side is golden. Someone mentioned how useful a landscaping pry bar is. That is true. And the pointy side works like one. It locates the roots and pry them up a bit and I can then cut them with the saw. Cheers!



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[Jland]

I live in an area with a high clay content... some of which is quite literally harder than concrete... a demo hammer with a spike or chisel barely chips it... this **** laughs at water so roots tend to crawl along the surface causing a lot of damage... what I have found works best for me is something like an axe head but it is mounted on a long pole. I don’t know what it’s called but they are sold in most garden sections of Home Depot and such.. they sharpen easily, hold and edge well.. no bending or reaching as you would with an axe or mattock so much safer to use and cuts through roots nicely...

 

[Jland]

Hi boys, just finished the job and I thought it is a good idea to circle back and wrap up the thread. Probably to the great disappointment if the GJ community, I bought neither a multi tool nor a sawzall. Instead, I get the job done with a good old wide saw and a 2.5 lbs pick mattock. After hacking at the stump 4 afternoons and about 4 hours, I declare myself the ultimate victor!

Since this is my first time removing a stump, and possibly last time, I really don't want to spend a single dollar extra on this project. Also, I am a lot less fond of garden tools, relative to auto mechanic tools. So I just bought a pick mattock from HD. I am very happy that I bought the 2.5 lbs one, even a 5lbs one with higher quality was selling for less. This time I let my sense dominated my sensibility and it was a good call. Maneuverability turned out much more important than heft in my case. A smaller tool is a lot easier to wield around the roots.

Also given the old saw, a pick mattock was the better tool than a Pulaski, IMHO. The key to remove the stump is to get underneath the roots once a decent trench is dug. Here the pick side is golden. Someone mentioned how useful a landscaping pry bar is. That is true. And the pointy side works like one. It locates the roots and pry them up a bit and I can then cut them with the saw. Cheers!



Sent from my SM-G981U1 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Well done... my grandpa would have used dynamite.... simpler times..

 

[nieuport17]

Hi boys, just finished the job and I thought it is a good idea to circle back and wrap up the thread. Probably to the great disappointment if the GJ community, I bought neither a multi tool nor a sawzall. Instead, I get the job done with a good old wide saw and a 2.5 lbs pick mattock. After hacking at the stump 4 afternoons and about 4 hours, I declare myself the ultimate victor!

Since this is my first time removing a stump, and possibly last time, I really don't want to spend a single dollar extra on this project. Also, I am a lot less fond of garden tools, relative to auto mechanic tools. So I just bought a pick mattock from HD. I am very happy that I bought the 2.5 lbs one, even a 5lbs one with higher quality was selling for less. This time I let my sense dominated my sensibility and it was a good call. Maneuverability turned out much more important than heft in my case. A smaller tool is a lot easier to wield around the roots.

Also given the old saw, a pick mattock was the better tool than a Pulaski, IMHO. The key to remove the stump is to get underneath the roots once a decent trench is dug. Here the pick side is golden. Someone mentioned how useful a landscaping pry bar is. That is true. And the pointy side works like one. It locates the roots and pry them up a bit and I can then cut them with the saw. Cheers!



Sent from my SM-G981U1 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Im glad you didn’t use oscillating tool

 

[PassnThru]

I thought we were talking about an actual tree here?

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

This thread is hilarious and it's so very Garage Journal in nature. The guy asked a specific question about a specific use for a specific tool based on his understanding of the problem and somehow we've gone from oscillating multi tool to backhoe.

Here is my go arborist procedure.

 

[mrjaw14]

Milwaukee makes a blade called the AX intended for trees and roots. I am removing a large stump now and this blade is awesome. It's got carbide teeth so it lasts a long time.

 

[Neggy]

I'll have to look for those blades.

I use my M18 Hackzall to cut up the falling palm tree debris at the FL house

The bad part is my neighbors saw me using it and now it is the most borrowed tool I own

My poor Hackzall has cut branches, stumps, roots, you name it.

 

[Ralf11]

Here is my go arborist procedure.

They actually use that in some forests to create snags or rotten snags for some wildlife. Blow the top of the tree off so it won't be so clean.