Can I Use Pipe Cutter?

[Chetter]

I have a question about whether I could safely use a pipe cutter on 1/2" black pipe that is in place on my garage heater. I would shut the propane off at the tanks and I would have the heater running so when I shut gas off, it would use up what's in the line and shut down, so, is that something I can do so that I could cut the black pipe safely? I would like to avoid completely taking everything apart to remove the section of pipe that goes into the furnace regulator to replace with a flex line. I don't want to be a story at 11 and any advice is much appreciated.
When I installed the heater back in 2008, I used the black pipe starting at the heater and working my way to the outside where my tanks and regulator are at, but I feel now that there's some vibration that runs through pipe since it is very rigid, and it would allow me more easily work on the heater should I need to in the future.

 

[The Cobbler]

you didn't install a union ?
Yes, you can cut the pipe safely. even a sawzall or hacksaw will work fine

 

[DGersic]

If you’re unsure about cutting it, and hesitant to disassemble it, how are you planning to thread the cut end?

You might be better off buying a shorter length and replacing the one piece that’s too long.

 

[The Cobbler]

I read it as he wants to remove a section of pipe and replace with with flex, and there's no union to separate it.

 

[nadogail]

I agree that the black iron pipe can be cut and replaced with flex, preferably with a shutoff feeding the flex portion.

 

[cgrutt]

May be location specific but flex pipe may not be permitted on non-appliances. I'd repipe with a union if possible.

 

[DGersic]

I read it as he wants to remove a section of pipe and replace with with flex, and there's no union to separate it.

The flex is going to go from the cut end to the heater. I’m not seeing how that’s going to work without threading the cut end.

Rereading the OP, I see what I think you’re reading. He's looking to cut the middle out because there is no union, allowing disassembly of both ends, then replace and install flex. Hm. Could be, I guess.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree, we are reading between lines of missing information.
I was originally going to ask how he was going to hold it to thread it, but then I reread and "assumed" there was no union & he was cutting the pipe to get it out .
OP, please provide more detail.

 

[DGersic]

May be location specific but flex pipe may not be permitted on non-appliances. I'd repipe with a union if possible.

He’s trying to install flex. Without flex, there’s no point to doing the work at all.

Agreed, check to see if flex is permitted for this application. I use it for appliances, but can’t say I’ve ever heard of it being used on a “heater”. Maybe the type of thing that “heater” is here allows for flex or doesn’t.

 

[fitter30]

Tubing cutter doesn't have a large enough wheel to cut black pipe all the way through. After using it you will also need a new wheel.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ he wants to use a pipe cutter.

 

[mike93lx]

^^^ he wants to use a pipe cutter.

As an amatuer, I definitely would refer to my tubing cutter as a pipe cutter

 

[dogdog]

I used the pipe cutter for PVC, Black, galv, GRC copper even wood all the time. wood is for marking line of cause...
The rest I did cut with it. No issues. Thicker black, glav or grc takes heck longer to do, that took the patience out of me most of the time now I have a metal chop saw and band saw but pipe cutter will work works. if you rush it then it deform on the edge a by a lot.

***Not professional, but heck use what you have. if your teeth are strong enough, use that too. stop whining like a cat.

how much pies would a wood chuck chuck pie if a would chuck would chuck pie.

 

[Chetter]

you didn't install a union ?
Yes, you can cut the pipe safely. even a sawzall or hacksaw will work fine

No, I had brain freeze and forgot to install one. I realized it once I got everything together. Hind sight is 20/20 they say.

 

[Chetter]

What I plan on doing is cutting the pipe so I can remove it from the elbow nearest the wall and threading in a short threaded ****** which will allow me to thread the flex line onto it. The flex line is rated for 95,000 btu usage in water heaters and small heaters it said in the description and my Mr Heater is 45,000 btu. The regulator should accept the other end of flex line. I do have a pipe cutter for black pipe and the room to use it and I really wanted to take away the solid connection since the heater when running does have a certain amount noise and vibration that does travel along the pipe, so my thinking is the flex line will make that much less prevalent and quieter.

 

[The Cobbler]

OP, You can do as suggested above with no issue. Just be sure to support the gas valve and manifold so you don't cause damage to it by reefing in the pipe

 

[Chetter]

OP, You can do as suggested above with no issue. Just be sure to support the gas valve and manifold so you don't cause damage to it by reefing in the pipe

Thanks for info and help.

 

[Walkers]

You can. Be sure to install a shut off valve on the end of the pipe, then install the transition fitting (NPT to flare) then the flex, then another transition fitting and finally a ****** from the gas valve to just outside the cabinet of the furnace.

 

[Chetter]

Thanks to all who posted and gave me the info I needed. Have a great day!!

 

[metlmunchr]

Last time I piped a gas fired unit heater was about 25 years ago. At that time, the gas code required a valve, a union, and a flex connector (in that order) to the heater. I doubt the code is any less strict now than it was back then. The valve and union have been required forever. The flex connector requirement was added in the late 80's to get away from problems with hard piped units where the body of the gas valve could eventually crack due to the strain imposed on the pot metal body by less than perfect alignment of the piping with the valve.

 

[Chetter]

Thanks to all who gave me some great info, I completed the project Monday and I used a union and the flex line which helps with having less vibration passing through the lines while running. It was pretty easy to get done and I already had a ball valve in line along with drop leg for any debris or moisture that would come through the lines. The furnace has worked great since 2008 when installed, albeit I did replace the circuit board which was a problem with the heaters back then and they warranted it along with a new exhaust fan that was noisy, been a great heater since. This is a great place for answers to anything you can think of and have always had great info and advice. Thanks again..