Can someone explain the densifiers and the process?

[Roothawg]

I am looking at pouring a 40x100 slab. My head is swimming after trying to read all of the options for flooring sealers, epoxies, etc.
I really just want to seal the concrete to prevent future staining. We build hot rods, so welding, painting, oil, floor jacks etc. Just trying to make it stay looking decent. This is my last shop, so I wanna to keep it presentable and make it easy to clean up.

I stumbled on to the densifiers, but I am not sure if it is a base coat, a final top coat or something that has to be reapplied.

Thoughts?

 

[Shea]

I am looking at pouring a 40x100 slab. My head is swimming after trying to read all of the options for flooring sealers, epoxies, etc.
I really just want to seal the concrete to prevent future staining. We build hot rods, so welding, painting, oil, floor jacks etc. Just trying to make it stay looking decent. This is my last shop, so I wanna to keep it presentable and make it easy to clean up.

I stumbled on to the densifiers, but I am not sure if it is a base coat, a final top coat or something that has to be reapplied.

Thoughts?

Technically, a densifier is not a sealer, though it can appear to act like one. They are most commonly associated with polishing concrete, but there are other uses for them as well. When applied, a densifier works by penetrating the surface of the concrete. It then reacts with calcium hydroxide to produce calcium silicate hydrate (CSH). CSH is a mineral that gives concrete strength. The CSH produced fills many of the tiny capillaries in the concrete at the subsurface. This strengthens the concrete since it has become more dense. And because the concrete is more dense, it makes it harder for liquids to penetrate - but they still will if given a little time. This is why it can appear that densifiers seal the concrete. The total reaction process takes approximately 5-7 days to complete.

Densifiers alone are not very good at stain defense and do not form a topical film on the surface. A densifier with a siliconate sealer added qualifies as a concrete sealer. This article here is an example of how a product like that works. Whether you apply a densifier with or without a siliconate sealer added, they will make general cleanup slightly easier.

I would suggest reading our article posted below which explains the differences between penetrating and topical sealers. It will give you a good background of what to expect from each and help you decide which is best for your needs.

Making Sense of Garage Floor Sealers | Which is Best for Your Application?

Learn the differences between penetrating and topical concrete sealers for garage floors and workshops. Discover what protection they provide against oil, water, and chemicals.

allgaragefloors.com

 

[benjy]

I'm a fan of color hardeners, seems to improve the strength of the top layer of concrete. A couple weeks after placing the concrete, I sealed with euclid super diamond clear. Only things that've caused problems so far is dropping a 5.5" vise off a workbench & spilled brake fluid in a high traffic area on 3 year old sealer (really should re-seal these areas every couple years)

 

[Roothawg]

So what would be the best product for low maint. in a high use area? Lots of chemicals, oils, antifreeze etc. Once I move in, I don't want to have to reseal every few years.

 

[benjy]

So what would be the best product for low maint. in a high use area? Lots of chemicals, oils, antifreeze etc. Once I move in, I don't want to have to reseal every few years.

Don't think there's a magic bullet, so check with local construction supply houses, one that carries a lot of concrete chemicals, that's how I found the color hardeners, then the Euclid products.

 

[meathooker]

So what would be the best product for low maint. in a high use area? Lots of chemicals, oils, antifreeze etc. Once I move in, I don't want to have to reseal every few years.

IMO the magic bullet is polished floors

we race at UMC in Utah and the day rental garages have polished floors. They’re subjected to oils, brake cleaner, fluid, jacks, etc by different people every weekend for 10-15 years and they look great

but it makes epoxy look cheap.

 

[CombatNinja]

Polished floors take an incredible amount of work to maintain. It is not a process you do once and then don't think about for 5 years. Those polished floors you see at a Lowes or Home Depot are scrubbed semi-daily with a little Zamboni-like machine and given full a repolish monthly or more.

OP, you want to look at a simple, easy to apply system like the Litha-Tek densifier and Ghostshield 8500 sealant. Densifier will be a once and done and the Ghostshield will last 2-4 years depending on how hard the shop gets used. It is easy to reapply with no onerous process.

 

[meathooker]

Polished floors take an incredible amount of work to maintain. It is not a process you do once and then don't think about for 5 years. Those polished floors you see at a Lowes or Home Depot are scrubbed semi-daily with a little Zamboni-like machine and given full a repolish monthly or more.

true they take more maintainence but I still think they’re the end-all

next time I’m at the track I’ll hit up the maintenance guys and see what their schedule is on the garage floors and report back.

 

[RPH]

Start here, this is the cheap route. No labor, just buy the plates. Plus a couple hundred hours. Here it was $10.00 just to grind to polish. Sealer was extra. I used ghostshield products and have been quite pleased with the performance.

 

[Armorpoxy]

For a polished floor/densifed look consider using our Spray on Coval Concrete Floor Coating. No prep needed, incredibly fluid and chemical resistant and very low cost when comparted to epoxies and polyaspartics. Goes on with a pump sprayer, and no other equipment needed.