Can these cabinets be refaced?

[Chaznsc]

We live in a homes built in the 80s and the kitchen needs some help. The cabinets are in good shape but the doors not so much. Can these cabinets be refaced? Notice the notch in the cabinet bracing. I’ve looked at door kits online.

Thank you.

 

[PassnThru]

I would suggest paint at this point.

That's a really thin shelf.

 

[ghnl]

I suspect they could be re-faced. The hinges would likely have to be changed to a more standard style. The openings for the hinges might need to be filled in - either with properly shaped pieces of wood glued in or maybe even 'bondo'.

 

[jimreed2160]

I had similar cabinets in my house which was built in 1978. Those cabinets were medium grade builder stuff. I painted mine but ended up ripping all of them out. Here are some of the issues I had:
1. The cabinets were solid wood with chipboard bottoms. The bottoms were flaking and rough.
2. The drawers were flimsy.
3. The cabinet layout was a poor design.

It turns out that cabinet design has changed a bit in the last 40 years. I replaced them with nicer units and an updated better design. Here are some of the changes:
1. Substantial and soft close drawers.
2. Much better design--esp at corners. Gained a lot of usable space.
3. Replaced some top cabinets with open shelving. It is much more convenient.
4. Replaced some bottom cabinets with drawers. They are easier to access and provide much more efficient storage.
5. Swapped the fridge and stove for a more efficient layout.

So if cost is an issue, paint and install new doors. But if you can swing it, go new. Design something that works better for your current lifestyle.

 

[Marctrees]

If in fact the cabinet cases "Carcasses'"are square and solid sturdy, you could consider refinishing the face frames, and even totally new doors.

Be aware, there are many cabinet shops that farm out the actual doors .

Look for a small scale realistic price kitch cab door maker in your area, and check out the pricing for optional overall avenues.

Besides Google, call local small cab shops for referrals.

Unless you go the option of wash, scrub, sand and PAINT your doors, new doors may be more practical.

Re doing the wood look will be difficult, unless you go with somesorta antiqued look... again though... NOT a place to practice your first Rodeo.

Your old doors could be prepped and sprayed,end up totally Pro looking, but ONLY if you have done similar work before. Marc

 

[glentre]

Another vote for clean, sand, bondo the dings and spray paint doors and cabinets if budget is restricted. IMO, these cabinets have seen a lot of use and show it. If you can stretch the budget and buy new ones, that would be your best bet.

Glen

 

[Chaznsc]

I should have included we would definitely put new doors on. Ive obtained samples from www.kitchenreface.com

 

[Cooter Brown]

Find somebody that's done refacing.

If you find anyone other than a house flipper who's still happy about it after a year I'd be shocked.

 

[Showkey]

Find somebody that's done refacing.

If you find anyone other than a house flipper who's still happy about it after a year I'd be shocked.

Like most things it depends on the quality of materials, the skills and detail of the installers and cost.

I had a reface on the “golden oak” 20 years old cabinets. They used new solid cheery doors and drawer fronts, new hinges, new drawer cases dove tail with soft close slides, cheery veneer on all the frames all new trim........it was fraction of the cost of new complete cabinets.
New back splash and counters and sink. Entire project was 2 weeks from start to finish.


Sold the house 4 years later and the kitchen was the center of attention. It was advertised as a newer kitchen remodel and nobody questioned the facts. I have been through the kitchen remodel in other homes both DIY and pro jobs. YES????? Some refacing are a quick and dirty cover up. Cabinet Painting and refacing are NOT the same.

 

[Marctrees]

I should have included we would definitely put new doors on. Ive obtained samples from www.kitchenreface.com

I REALLY like the idea of buying doors w finish applied.

Not too hard to refinish your own faceframe..because it's so narrow, easy to do.

Finishing the actual doors for the inexperienced could be a nightmare in itself.

Marc

 

[lakelandcat]

I've refinished a lot worse than those, a oscillating sander with 80 grit goes along way, finish with some 120G fill gouges and nicks with stainable wood filler, stain and apply clear poly, I used a Matt finish turned out great. These cabinet were so ugly if ugly cabinets could talk they would have called these cabinets ugly. It was wood paneling from the 70's with the little black stripe that was glued to particle board, big gothic handles right in the middle (still have them if anyone is building a dungeon) sanded to bare wood filled in the crack with the filler and stained Kona color (almost black with a touch of red) looked new, real elegant used black pulls and knobs.

 

[manwithtools]

I REALLY like the idea of buying doors w finish applied.

Not too hard to refinish your own faceframe..because it's so narrow, easy to do.

Finishing the actual doors for the inexperienced could be a nightmare in itself.

Marc

But how do you match your face frame to the new doors - finish wise?

 

[KenC]

But how do you match your face frame to the new doors - finish wise?

That's not absolutely necessary if you can find a 'mismatch design' you like.

I've done a lot of cabs, total from scratch, reface, paint and most every combo.

My personal favorite was a 70s kitchen that I did for us. pulled all the drawers and doors. Built new drawer boxes with full extension slides. Built new doors and drawer fronts from solid cherry. Refaced the cabinets with matte black laminate and used black and stainless appliances with a white patterned solid surface countertop.

IMO, it looked outstanding. The cherry was really showcased against the black

 

[glentre]

Didn't know you were buying new doors. In that case, I would recommend buying real wood veneer in the same species as your new doors. This veneer can be ordered with self adhesive backing from several on-line sources. All you do is cut it with an ordinary scissors or utility knife, peel off the backing and press it against your face frames and cabinet ends. It will cover over and hide the existing hinge slots. Rubbing the applied veneer with the sharp edge of a plastic applicator will get all the bubbles out and ensure permanent contact. Trim the veneer close to the edge then finish flush with a file.

Take one of your doors to a quality paint supplier like Sherwin Williams and get them to mix up a stain to match your doors. Apply the stain to the veneer and brush on two or three coats of poly with the same sheen as your doors.

Also recommend you order the doors with Euro style 35mm pre-drilled hinge holes and buy the Euro hinges made for face frame cabinets. Your beat-up old cabinets will look like new.

Glen

 

[Cooter Brown]

Like most things it depends on the quality of materials, the skills and detail of the installers and cost.

I had a reface on the “golden oak” 20 years old cabinets. They used new solid cheery doors and drawer fronts, new hinges, new drawer cases dove tail with soft close slides, cheery veneer on all the frames all new trim........it was fraction of the cost of new complete cabinets.
New back splash and counters and sink. Entire project was 2 weeks from start to finish.


Sold the house 4 years later and the kitchen was the center of attention. It was advertised as a newer kitchen remodel and nobody questioned the facts. I have been through the kitchen remodel in other homes both DIY and pro jobs. YES????? Some refacing are a quick and dirty cover up. Cabinet Painting and refacing are NOT the same.

Glad to hear you had a good experience--I have to say you're the only one I've heard who was happy they did it!

 

[Chaznsc]

Thanks guys. Probably will just replace everything when we can. This house devours cash. You name it and we’ve replaced it. One huge mistake buying it.

 

[Jinks]

Quick tip for ALL cabinets. Old, new, cheap, expensive, doesn't make a difference. All lower cabinets that have water in them will experience a leak sooner or later. That leak will either damage or ruin the bottom of the cabinet. To prevent that find some inexpensive tile at any store you can, & tile the bottom of the cabinet. It'll look good & prevent the water from damaging the wood. It's also easy to clean.

 

[Chaznsc]

Quick tip for ALL cabinets. Old, new, cheap, expensive, doesn't make a difference. All lower cabinets that have water in them will experience a leak sooner or later. That leak will either damage or ruin the bottom of the cabinet. To prevent that find some inexpensive tile at any store you can, & tile the bottom of the cabinet. It'll look good & prevent the water from damaging the wood. It's also easy to clean.

I’ve thought about just cutting the subfloor out entirely and let it drain thru

 

[jimreed2160]

So true that water loves to leak. I place a tote underneath the drain trap to catch any drain drips. In addition, I have a water sensor in the cabinet for those big leaks.

 

[DOUGD]

Our cabinets were from the mid 70's and looked much worse than yours. Counter guy at Sherwin Williams lined me up with a TSP cleaner,oil base tinted primer and a latex topcoat. All paint was brushed on. Five years later cabinets still look great.

 

[Chaznsc]

Our cabinets were from the mid 70's and looked much worse than yours. Counter guy at Sherwin Williams lined me up with a TSP cleaner,oil base tinted primer and a latex topcoat. All paint was brushed on. Five years later cabinets still look great.

That won’t work here. Doors are coming off and there’s no wood to mount them to.

 

[johnnyradiant]

That style of hinge is still available in a slightly improved design (IMO because the hinge springs are better contained).

I've sent customer doors to a local cabinet refinisher to refinish/paint with better results than I can achieve (no booth) and at a $ I can't compete with if I'm charging out myself. I normally do the initial prep/repairs.

At the apartment building I manage I normally put in a piece of sheet goods vinyl flooring. I try to cut it a 1/4 - 1/2" oversize to let the edges wrap up. It creates a little shower pan, without the joints of a tile product. To dress it at the opening I've sometimes used some aluminum edging.

 

[mtnkrake]

1970's slab door cabinets with boxes in decent shape. New doors sprayed with Benjamin Moore in my shed and sprayed the frames with lots and lots of masking. All new drawer boxes with soft close slides. Turned out nice. We are getting ready to finish the counters and backsplash.

 

[DC73]

Yes they can be refaced fairly easily if you're handy. I refaced a set of kitchen cabinets by using oak veneer. For the face frames, I used some self-adhesive iron-on oak veneer that came in the rolls like tape. For the cabinet sides, I used regular oak veneer that needs to be applied with contact adhesive.


The veneer stained and finished very well. I ordered oak doors from The Door Stop (www.cabinetdoors.com).


Good luck,


DC