Can this wilton vise be repaired?

[Sumo91]

Hey all! I just picked up a wilton vise for 50 bucks! The old man I bought it from upgraded to a bigger vise about 10 years ago. and this one has been collecting dust since. I tore it apart to restore it, and noticed the draw arm tube is cracked and bent. I'm wondering if it can be repaired. The rear collar is also damaged, but not as concerning.i figure some heat to bend it back and a nice weld and I'll be in business. But I wanted to check here first. The model is 7400 I believe and the date stamp is 1/47

 

[matt_i]

It sure can. I would use flux coated brazing rod and an oxyacet torch.

Downside is you're going to have to Vee out the crack wider the bronze braze doesn't wick like a plumbing solder.

Some pics of a cast footpedal that was welded, cracked, and I cleaned it out and bronze-brazed it back to function. I used about 4 rods on it, eventually they got short and my hand too close to the flame so I have some stubs for future. A dremel tool will make quick work of veeing out the crack. You can file it back to dimension at the end.

The braze is pretty strong but I wouldn't beat on it going forward.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

Sum,

Welcome to GJ. You picked a real tough one for your first post. On that rear cap I have seen members turn it 90 degrees and drill new holes. As far as that crack in the tube, I'll have to differ to some of the more experienced members. I would try to save the vise though. I did manage to weld a completely broken off dynamic jaw on a Starrett vise a while back. For $50 I would give it a try even if you had to pay someone to weld it. I don't know about your area but that C1 (not 7400) would probably be $400 as is on CL. Good luck and I am sure some of the guru's on here will have the exact answer soon!

 

[Sumo91]

Thank you guys for the swift replies. I'll probably bring it to someone to get welded or brazed and bent back straight, maybe a machine shop or welding shop, all of my welding equipment is in storage at the moment and I'm leaving town for the next 6 weeks for work. Great advice on rotating the collar and drilling new holes! I thought it was a 7400 because of the stamp on the threaded tube (not sure what called)

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

Sum,

Your jaws dont look that out of alignment. I see on the close up how much it's off but if the jaws line up and it were mine i'd just leave it. Maybe its not worth risking bending it back?

 

[JasonMcElroy]

I'd degrease it then bake it to get all the oil/grease out of it as best you can before brazing.

Jason

 

[HotrodHR]

Does the vise function as is? If so, I'd clean it up, paint and put it back together. If you're concerned about it breaking don't pound on it with a sledge hammer or use a cheater bar to tighten it up!

 

[Sumo91]

The vise does function, it's currently primed and ready for paint. I noticed the end stops on the turning bar are brass, as are the nuts to hold the swivel base in place. They look original but I'm not sure if the are or not. I dont plan on abusing this vise, but I'd like to be able to have the jaws line up, and be able to crank down on whatever I'm holding if I need to. I also left all the little dings and dents in the vise, to add character. I thought about grinding it smooth, but figured I'd leave it alone. I leave out of town tomorrow. So I wanted to get this vise painted and put back together before I leave. I'll post pictures when done!

 

[Sumo91]

Got her painted and put back together. Man this a purty vise. I cant tighten it down all the way due to it being bent, it binds up pretty bad and its hard to back off, but I can get the jaws within a 1/4 inch or better without issues. I'll get the drawarm repaired after I get back from out of town. It doesnt look like the pipe jaws have ever been used. I love the brass pieces on it as well

 

[Packard V8]

I love the brass pieces on it as well

The brass is unique. It probably isn't original Wilton, but most likely done on the night shift in an machine shop where the millwright had time on his hands.

We can all sympathize with wanting to save a good old Wilton, but you've taken on a challenge I'd not attempt. It's one thing to braise an open area where precise alignment is not a problem and you can add braze above the parent metal to add strength. You're going to try to hold concentricity and put in enough heat and braze to return enough strength to function satisfactorily and keep it all inside the parent metal and have it be straight when cool. It can be done, just not by me.

jack vines

 

[Sumo91]

Hmm I didnt think about that. I would have to grind the drawarm smooth after brazing. Would welding a certain type of way maintain the structural integrity after grinding smooth? I would to at least get the arm bent straight to make the vise be able to close completely. I've also thought about making a spacer block behind the drawarm jaw and angling it so that the jaws line up straight and can touch each other

 

[ClappedOutBport]

The brass is unique. It probably isn't original Wilton, but most likely done on the night shift in an machine shop where the millwright had time on his hands.

We can all sympathize with wanting to save a good old Wilton, but you've taken on a challenge I'd not attempt. It's one thing to braise an open area where precise alignment is not a problem and you can add braze above the parent metal to add strength. You're going to try to hold concentricity and put in enough heat and braze to return enough strength to function satisfactorily and keep it all inside the parent metal and have it be straight when cool. It can be done, just not by me.

jack vines

Bah. I'd do it. What's he got to lose. I wouldn't weld it though. Torch or tig braze. No concentrically to retain, it's already bent.

Here is a lathe tailstock I did. Didn't do a perfect job, but better than the crack that was in there.

Preheating is your friend whatever method you should decide to do. At least 600 for either brazing method, probably around 350 for nickle rod. Not an expert on that. Peen after every bead.

 

[Packard V8]

Nice repair work on the tailstock.

FWIW, a really experienced welder who's seen and done a lot can sometimes predict which way the workpiece is going to move when it's heated, brazed and cooled, sometimes not. I watched a guy make an elaborate jig to pull back into alignment and hold for brazing a similarly cracked and bent lathe iron casting. The welder did a perfect job of brazing, but when the workpiece cooled, it bent in the direction of the crack which was repaired; enough so it wouldn't function when replaced on the lathe. Your results may vary.

jack vines

 

[zkling]

The extra long handle didn't help. Combo vises undergo much more stress than non combo vises as the distance from the main jaws to the slide is greater, greatly increasing the bending stress in the slide.

Logical order of events (in my opinion).
Someone put a cheater pipe on the vise with stock handle.
Stock handle bent.
Replacement handle was made longer.
Longer replacement handle allowed for greater stress and thus cracked the slide.