Can you help me with a schematic

[cyamaha2007]

This is for my 2 post lift hydraulic pump. It is a 220v single phase motor. I need to wire in the overhead limit switch also.
Inside the motor starting switch housing.

These are the loose wires needing to be connected.

This is the only schematic supplied.

You guys have been a great help. All other electrical endeavors with the shop have gone great thanks you your help.

 

[cyamaha2007]

The only way I can see this working is the black is a hot and so is the white(i know white is neutral but who knows where this thing was made) and the case supplies the ground. I just cant think this is correct. OR they sent me a 120v motor labeled wrong? everything makes sense to me if it was a 120v motor.

 

[matt151617]

We'll need to know the amp draw for the lift. If it's 20 amps or less, use 12/2 Romex from your panel. 21-30 amps, 10/2. Dual breaker, recolor the white wire to red, hook it up to one pole of the breaker, and the black wire off the other pole. Ground to the ground bar. At the lift, black wire to black wire, white (recolored red) wire to white wire, bare ground to the green wire.

You'll also want to open up where the wires are on the lift. Install a strain relief bushing and put the Romex through that. Make the connections with appropriately sized wire nuts inside that box.

It does say 220v lift on the lift itself somewhere right? Not just the directions? (220v motors do not need a neutral)

 

[Aceman]

Pic 2 with the sticker requiring 105 C wire is going to foul you up. THHN is only 90 C, so you'll need to hit up a supply house and see if they can round some up for you.

To answer your question though, one hot to the black wire, one hot to the white wire. Throw a little black tape on the white wire.

 

[cyamaha2007]

The lift has a 17a start up draw. I have a 30a 220v curcuit next to the lift. I plan to tie into that curcuit. It is feed with 10-3 romex w/ ground. Why would they use white wire for a hot wire? Is that common practice?

 

[cyamaha2007]

So i need 105 degree wire even tho im using 30amp wire? why would the wire get that hot? Are they thinking that my work environment will get that hot?

 

[Aceman]

So i need 105 degree wire even tho im using 30amp wire? why would the wire get that hot? Are they thinking that my work environment will get that hot?

Apparently, they must not think 90 C wire is going to cut it.

I've had to use 105 C and 150 C wire in outside lights quite a bit lately, the 150 C wire looks like oven wire with a cloth outer braid on it. You can run your regular building wire to a box nearby then simply flex or whatever to the motor with the 105 C wire.

 

[fatboy621]

Yes it is some what common to use the white wire for the second hot lead in a 220volt set up. If you don't want to use the white wire you can get 10/3with ground. Then you will have black,red, white and green or bare wire. This is what is known as a four wire 220 volt set up. It is ok to use the white wire but you should use black tape and tape all the exposed white at all junction points.

 

[cyamaha2007]

I understand now. I plan on running a piece of conduit up the lift post to the ceiling, punch through the ceiling with the conduit. Then go into a junction box. I have single standed 10g wire rated to 105c here. Ill just run the stranded from the motor to the ceiling junction box. Thanks so much. For some reason i thought i needed 105c wire all the way back to the panel.

 

[sberry]

Ace, could they mean 105 wire between the control and the motor? Maybe if the minimum wire size was used? Ok, just went and looked at my own, says stranded wire 90C. If I was connecting this to a 10 I doubt its something I would lose a lot of sleep over though, I can see the concern with some lighting but this thing has about a 45 second duty cycle. I believe mine is 13.8A at 230 and they allow 14 @ 30 or 35A, lists 14 for 208V

Mohawk supplied 4 conductor cord and a 3 phase plug for single unit.

 

[Aceman]

Ace, could they mean 105 wire between the control and the motor?

I couldn't tell you without looking at it, it's possible though. It might be something the motor manufacturer put on there, and not the lift company. If it's already wired from the motor back to the controller by the lift company, it might already be taken care of.

That said, in all the motors I've wired, I've never used anything more than regular thhn, xhhw, etc. It's only lights where I've used high temp wire, I've seen some fixtures requiring high temp wire where someone used THHN. The wire looked like a black cracked burned mess. Tan wirenuts splitting from the heat.

 

[cyamaha2007]

The dashed wire in the schematic runs to the overhead limit switch. That wire is 14g. The manual says to only use wire capable of 25a for motor connections. Also the limit switch is rated for 15a. How is this ok? that switch is a load carrying part of the circuit not a low voltage control circuit.

 

[sberry]

The limit switch is closed during operation, only time it really works is in case of, well, exceeding the limit, if it had a hi cycle situation where it was making contact on a regular basis then it might have problems. As for the 14 wire, again, duty cycle is so low, this is on for a minute. This is why I mentioned not loosing sleep here especially with bigger wire, isn't like this is left un attended and running continuous.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The push button switch appears to be a double pole switch, since they have run both hots from the motor to the switch and then out of the switch. This is NOT what your wiring diagram shows.

The overhead switch need only interrupt one of the hots to shut down the motor. What I would do to save changing a bunch of wires around to conform to the wiring diagram is to bring the wire from the overhead switch into one of the knockouts in the top of the switch box, my lift and most I've seen use SO cord provided by the lift manufacturer.. Pull one of the wires you have in your hand in the second pic, lets say the white one, back into the box and connect it to the black wire from the overhead switch. Then take the white wire from the overhead switch and pull it out of the box, in place of the one you now have sticking out, and then connect your 240v hots to those two (which you will actually do INSIDE the box).

This leaves the push button switch interrupting both of the hots, and the overhead interrupting one of the hots, wired in series with one side of the push button switch.

My Challenger lift is wired like your schematic with a single pole push button switch making the connection on one hot (NO switch) and the overhead switch breaking the other hot when the car is lifted too high (NC switch).

My Challenger also uses rather small wire to the overhead switch, and I wondered about this, but finally reasoned what Strawberry said, its intermittent duty, not running over about 90 seconds at a time max, so it just don't matter.

Charles

 

[cyamaha2007]

Ok this all makes sense now. I wish they wouldnt put a note in the manual saying to only use wire rated to carry 25a. Well i wouldnt have thought its ok but thats why i asked. Thanks for the help.