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Can you ID this rear??

mad57

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Ok its in my 57 chevy its a drum brake and i believe it to be 70 chevelle iam up grading to disc up front and wanna do all new wheel cycl and drums out back but need to know what to buy .. there are no numbers anywhere on this bad boy any help thks mad57.
 

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stroked93

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Dec 27, 2007
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Omaha Nebraska
you need to measure ring gear could bi 7.5 8.2 or 8.5 inch. because of leaf spring pads i would guess camaro or firebird.
 
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mad57

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I just need to know what drums to buy as well as wheel cyclinders so a year would help me order those, dont wanna pump old rusty **** into a new disc set up front gonna change all lines as well looking foward to actually stopping:)
 
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mad57

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If it helps the rear was in the car when i bought it back in 1987. so i doubt its newer than that.
 

larry_g

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Being that is a generic gm rear you probably would be better served measuring the drum size and width, and measure the wheel cylinder. The brakes could vary depending if the rear came from a lightweight or heavyweight car. Also be aware that there are different bore sizes in the wheel cylinder. Having that knowledge you can change the wheel cylinders to larger or smaller bore to help balance the front to rear breaking bias. If you are buying the front brakes as a kit from a good mfg, ask them what you should be running for rear brakes. Hopefully they will have a good recommendation on what 'should' work. Also be aware that by changing backing plates you can adjust the width of the rear shoes and drums. Brakes have a lot of variables to them that you can use to dial in what you need. There are a lot of variables in the master cylinders, pedal ratios, calipers and puck sizes, and other smaller variables. I hope you educate yourself on all the components in the system and then make the best choices.

lg
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dcovey

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Being that is a generic gm rear you probably would be better served measuring the drum size and width, and measure the wheel cylinder. The brakes could vary depending if the rear came from a lightweight or heavyweight car. Also be aware that there are different bore sizes in the wheel cylinder. Having that knowledge you can change the wheel cylinders to larger or smaller bore to help balance the front to rear breaking bias. If you are buying the front brakes as a kit from a good mfg, ask them what you should be running for rear brakes. Hopefully they will have a good recommendation on what 'should' work. Also be aware that by changing backing plates you can adjust the width of the rear shoes and drums. Brakes have a lot of variables to them that you can use to dial in what you need. There are a lot of variables in the master cylinders, pedal ratios, calipers and puck sizes, and other smaller variables. I hope you educate yourself on all the components in the system and then make the best choices.

lg
no neat sig line

Best answer!!

Now you just have to find a parts store with someone behind the counter that knows how to use the information..:rant:

Dave
 

huffer

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So Cal
Being that is a generic gm rear you probably would be better served measuring the drum size and width, and measure the wheel cylinder. The brakes could vary depending if the rear came from a lightweight or heavyweight car. Also be aware that there are different bore sizes in the wheel cylinder. Having that knowledge you can change the wheel cylinders to larger or smaller bore to help balance the front to rear breaking bias. If you are buying the front brakes as a kit from a good mfg, ask them what you should be running for rear brakes. Hopefully they will have a good recommendation on what 'should' work. Also be aware that by changing backing plates you can adjust the width of the rear shoes and drums. Brakes have a lot of variables to them that you can use to dial in what you need. There are a lot of variables in the master cylinders, pedal ratios, calipers and puck sizes, and other smaller variables. I hope you educate yourself on all the components in the system and then make the best choices.

lg
no neat sig line


The above is best thing to do to make sure everything will work well together.

The on in your photo looks as if it's a Chevrolet A-body 10 bolt rearend. Either Chevelle or El Camino.
You can check the codes on the rearend here:

http://www.chevelles.com/years/70/70rearcodes.html

They have a page for every year.
 

brwbier

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Sheboygan, WI
You said you can not find any numbers. Can you read anything in the tag on the lower right bolt on the cover? The number stamping is usually on the top of the tube, I don't remember if on the right or left. They could be cover in paint. Just remove the paint on top of the tubes centered between the pumpkin and the brake drum.
Brwbier
 
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mad57

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Thanks for the info so far one thing that i see on there that i dont in the pics on the web ...see the 2 (ears) round holes molded into the rear, was that for exhaust pipes? and i dont see those in rear site.
 

swish

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Western MD
Looks to me to be 8.5 Corporate. With the ears it would be from a coil spring car. It could be from a 73-77 chevelle or even a 85-87 Grand National. If you can get me pic's of the backing plates or a width measurement it would help on the identification. You could also get a pic of the brakes shoes, specifically where they attach to the wheel cylinders would also help. Either one should be a 9 inch brake shoe.
 

Gary S

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Do what huffer suggested. Get the code off the axle. It should be on the passenger side axle tube facing the front of the car. You will probably need to sand the tube to remove old paint and rust to expose the stamped code. Once you have that code, look it up on Chevelles.com like suggested.
 
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csp

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The two round holes are for upper control arms. That rear axle would have originally been under a car with a coil spring rear suspension.
 

T1320T

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Indiana
Summit Racing has a diagram in their catalog that shows about a dozen common rear ends.... but, I couldn't find it online to link you to.
 

Muttly

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Can't you look it up with the build tag?

1364c86764167455.jpg
 

38Chevy454

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As many suggested, that is a rearend out of a GM coil spring car with (originally) four control arms. The upper arms connected to the center housing and the lowers connected to the outer axle tubes. The outer connections are cut off and you have leaf spring pads in place. I don't know enough off top of my head to ID if it is a 8.2, 8.5 or 7.5 model. My best guess is on a 8.5 GM corporate rearend from mid 70s.

The tag should give some info. Just measure your drums and take old parts in with you to the auto parts store. Ask for brake parts for a 76 El Camino or 80 Malibu as a good starting point. The El Camino will probably be larger diam.
 

larry_g

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8.5 10 bolt get wheel cylinders from a 83 s10 with manual brakes they hare larger and will give better brakes

How do you mean better brakes? Larger diameter wheel cylinders will give more force to the shoes for a given input pressure but that does not necessarly mean better braking for the car in question. Without knowing the what the front end of the braking system is your suggestion could lead to a rig that has the back tires locked up before the fronts are even near maximum limits. The braking system has to be designed for the rig it is on, the balance of the rig, the weight, tires, and other variables.

lg
no neat sig line
 

tatra

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pirate contest city
if upgrading to discs up front, consider matching the rears with an entire assy..............new backing plates , drums, etc... and all required hardware with a matching proportioning valve............eastwood [ i think] used to sell an adjustable one.........
 
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mad57

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the kit i bought has an adjustable proport valve made from disc to drum or disc to disc. gonna call napa tomorrow and pick there brain and order new drums and wheel cycl thanks guys for all the help. will keep ya posted on finished job.
 

larry_g

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the kit i bought has an adjustable proport valve made from disc to drum or disc to disc. gonna call napa tomorrow and pick there brain and order new drums and wheel cycl thanks guys for all the help. will keep ya posted on finished job.

I sure hope your NAPA store is better than mine, it is slim pickins there. Can you link in a catalogue or web site to the kit you bought for the front? That is the place I would start for info on the rears. They should have a recommended shoe/drum/wheel cylinder that would get you in the ball park ow what is needed for your rig. A proportioning valve is going to have a limited range of imbalance it can fix. And if your rear brakes are undersized the pv will be no help at all.

In all this thread nothing has been said about master cylinder size or booster if used. All these parts must work together and I have an inkling that this brake system has not been engineered to work to the best of its ability. Mad57 can you aliveiate my fears here and assure the world that this rig will roll out of the shop with a braking system that will hold up in an emergency situation and not kill one of us or yourself?



lg
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