hdossett
Well-known member
I is on a Genie Garage Door opener control board. I can't make out the colors for the value.
Can you name this resistor?
- Thread starter hdossett
- Start date
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Is this like the blue dress gold dress thing?
Zeke
Well-known member
The colors fade and are hard to read sometimes. Looks like the 4th one is silver (reading as if it is upside down) which means it can be within 10% of spec and be fine. OTOH, the first could be gold on the right and mean 5%.
I see brown and red but not enough to determine the value. It would help to scratch the gold and silver to see which end to read from.
The board does look a little toasty.
I see brown and red but not enough to determine the value. It would help to scratch the gold and silver to see which end to read from.
The board does look a little toasty.
BillK
Well-known member
I think you read it from left to right in your picture. The gold band on the right is further from the other three so I am sure that is the tolerance. Looks like white, violet, violet. That would be 970 Megohms. Or the first stripe might be grey ? That would be 870 Mohms. Are you sure it is bad ? The resistor really doesnt look like it got hot.
BillK
Well-known member
I must be blind. I have been doing electronics most of my life but I dont see anything anywhere near close to Orange, red, red. Guess I am not sure which resistor you are looking at.
What part number opener ?
What part number opener ?
BillK
Well-known member
RPH
Well-known member
You sure about that?
Take picture of meter in use on this resistor.
Are you lifting one end free from the board? Are you measuring what you think you are?
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Better to find a schematic than play the blue dress gold dress game…
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
Go with dogdog suggestion. If the traces are "sensitive" you can just cut one of the leads in the middle and measur wo desoldering
Measure and see if it is a reasonable value compared with "guesses" colorbands.
Then solder back the two ends.
Ola
Measure and see if it is a reasonable value compared with "guesses" colorbands.
Then solder back the two ends.
Ola
Meursault74
Well-known member
nah, Georg is the most appropriate first name for a resistor.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
Yes.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Jeez, I was guessing White, Violet, Brown, Gold. 970Ω ± 5%
You're BOTH wrong, the appropriate name for a resistor is Violet. (I'll give you that one willingly...
)
You're BOTH wrong, the appropriate name for a resistor is Violet. (I'll give you that one willingly...
)Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Judging by the color, the only appropriate name would be oompaloompah.
bwringer
Well-known member
It's quite clear the middle two are different colors, and reading left to right, #3 is darker than #2. #4 looks to have some remnants of shininess, and so appears to be a gold tolerance band. There's another nearby green resistor with a gold band as well.
So from left to right, my guess is:
Dirty white (or maybe yellow?)
Red
Brown
Gold
So that's, uh, erm...
9
2
x10Ω
-----
920Ω +-5%
www.calculator.net
I have no idea whether that actually makes sense or is an actual component one can buy, mind you.
But #3 could be an overheated orange, perhaps? Basically, #2 and #3 could be red, orange, brown, or maybe even violet depending on what you think the effects of overheating and age might have been.
Personally, I'd try to wipe off some of the grunge with WD-40 or alcohol or similar and get some good strong incandescent (full spectrum; not LED) lighting in there. If that doesn't bring any enlightenment, maybe try scraping or lightly polishing or sanding part of it. The paint is not very thick, but it you can abrade the top layer of grunge off, you might get somewhere.
Or is this just an academic exercise? That board looks to be in pretty rotten shape overall.
Resistor color codes were just a rotten idea from the beginning, and are one of those maddening little archaisms that's still hanging around. Differences in human color perception can be very pronounced (even in person and not altered by a camera and computer screen). Diagnosable color blindness is fairly frequent, and pretty much everyone perceives color differently to greater or lesser degrees.
Stir in manufacturer variations in paint color, thickness, and application, not to mention the wildly varying effects of age, dirt, and heat, and you've got a ridiculous mess of mysteries.
So from left to right, my guess is:
Dirty white (or maybe yellow?)
Red
Brown
Gold
So that's, uh, erm...
9
2
x10Ω
-----
920Ω +-5%
Resistor Calculator
This resistor calculator converts the ohm value and tolerance based on resistor color codes and determines the resistances of resistors in parallel or series.
www.calculator.net
I have no idea whether that actually makes sense or is an actual component one can buy, mind you.
But #3 could be an overheated orange, perhaps? Basically, #2 and #3 could be red, orange, brown, or maybe even violet depending on what you think the effects of overheating and age might have been.
Personally, I'd try to wipe off some of the grunge with WD-40 or alcohol or similar and get some good strong incandescent (full spectrum; not LED) lighting in there. If that doesn't bring any enlightenment, maybe try scraping or lightly polishing or sanding part of it. The paint is not very thick, but it you can abrade the top layer of grunge off, you might get somewhere.
Or is this just an academic exercise? That board looks to be in pretty rotten shape overall.
Resistor color codes were just a rotten idea from the beginning, and are one of those maddening little archaisms that's still hanging around. Differences in human color perception can be very pronounced (even in person and not altered by a camera and computer screen). Diagnosable color blindness is fairly frequent, and pretty much everyone perceives color differently to greater or lesser degrees.
Stir in manufacturer variations in paint color, thickness, and application, not to mention the wildly varying effects of age, dirt, and heat, and you've got a ridiculous mess of mysteries.
Last edited:
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
There's no need to be name calling.
Shortbuscandid8
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2013
- Messages
- 37
With a component in that shape, finding it's resistance is futile.
I have decided to buy a new garage door opener. I think the blown resistor is just a symptom and not he cause.
The following took place over a month or so...
The GD would reverse while closing, intermittently. I cleaned the sensors, no joy. I replaced the the sensors, no joy. I replaced the motor capacitor because the motor did not start and hummed at one point and to only thing to stop it was to un plug the unit. The replacement capacitor lasted a few weeks. It was a cheap one with the right specs, but, it latterly exploded after a few rapid open/close test, leaving a plastic like gunk on the PC board. The motor also seems to over heat.
The system completely died after the sensors were changed out. I tested the change out with three open/close cycles and it worked. Then while leaving it failed to close. I had to make three or four stop/close attempts for it to stay closed. Upon returning and attempting to close, it reverse. Playing with the wall button the motor stopped and hummed again and I had to unplug the unit. I got it to close, but then noticed the sensor LEDs were not on, The whole system was dead. I tried different outlets and devices to confirm that power was going to the unit.
Then I found the blown resistor...
The following took place over a month or so...
The GD would reverse while closing, intermittently. I cleaned the sensors, no joy. I replaced the the sensors, no joy. I replaced the motor capacitor because the motor did not start and hummed at one point and to only thing to stop it was to un plug the unit. The replacement capacitor lasted a few weeks. It was a cheap one with the right specs, but, it latterly exploded after a few rapid open/close test, leaving a plastic like gunk on the PC board. The motor also seems to over heat.
The system completely died after the sensors were changed out. I tested the change out with three open/close cycles and it worked. Then while leaving it failed to close. I had to make three or four stop/close attempts for it to stay closed. Upon returning and attempting to close, it reverse. Playing with the wall button the motor stopped and hummed again and I had to unplug the unit. I got it to close, but then noticed the sensor LEDs were not on, The whole system was dead. I tried different outlets and devices to confirm that power was going to the unit.
Then I found the blown resistor...
wssix99
Well-known member
My vote is Yellow Brown Brown Gold, but if you look at the component it is hooked up to, you can usually find the schematic for that diagram that might list the required resistance/load it needs.
With all the problems you are having, the unit sounds well worn out all the way around. A new unit sounds like a good way to move on to other projects!
With all the problems you are having, the unit sounds well worn out all the way around. A new unit sounds like a good way to move on to other projects!
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
which is why schematics are so importantIt's quite clear the middle two are different colors, and reading left to right, #3 is darker than #2. #4 looks to have some remnants of shininess, and so appears to be a gold tolerance band. There's another nearby green resistor with a gold band as well.
So from left to right, my guess is:
Dirty white (or maybe yellow?)
Red
Brown
Gold
So that's, uh, erm...
9
2
x10Ω
-----
920Ω +-5%
Resistor Calculator
This resistor calculator converts the ohm value and tolerance based on resistor color codes and determines the resistances of resistors in parallel or series.
I have no idea whether that actually makes sense or is an actual component one can buy, mind you.
But #3 could be an overheated orange, perhaps? Basically, #2 and #3 could be red, orange, brown, or maybe even violet depending on what you think the effects of overheating and age might have been.
Personally, I'd try to wipe off some of the grunge with WD-40 or alcohol or similar and get some good strong incandescent (full spectrum; not LED) lighting in there. If that doesn't bring any enlightenment, maybe try scraping or lightly polishing or sanding part of it. The paint is not very thick, but it you can abrade the top layer of grunge off, you might get somewhere.
Or is this just an academic exercise? That board looks to be in pretty rotten shape overall.
Resistor color codes were just a rotten idea from the beginning, and are one of those maddening little archaisms that's still hanging around. Differences in human color perception can be very pronounced (even in person and not altered by a camera and computer screen). Diagnosable color blindness is fairly frequent, and pretty much everyone perceives color differently to greater or lesser degrees.
Stir in manufacturer variations in paint color, thickness, and application, not to mention the wildly varying effects of age, dirt, and heat, and you've got a ridiculous mess of mysteries.
In my realm I'd just open the BOM and see what R10 was populated with.
Pretty sure the schematics don't call out the values in most cases.
Have no idea where people could find schematic to trouble shoot these thing. maybe google that number if any etched on the circuit board?
but electronic repair folks might have their secret sources.
Resistor that size or larger usually are power resistors for either current limiting or voltage dividing/dropping and the values are usually in hundreds or lower not kilos.. so. if it heats up and died usually the component down the road of this resistor is failing or drawing too much current that it is designed for. so... yes good choice o upgrade to a newer board and design.
but electronic repair folks might have their secret sources.
Resistor that size or larger usually are power resistors for either current limiting or voltage dividing/dropping and the values are usually in hundreds or lower not kilos.. so. if it heats up and died usually the component down the road of this resistor is failing or drawing too much current that it is designed for. so... yes good choice o upgrade to a newer board and design.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Don't think you mean latterly - look it up. You probably mean literally but why do people even use that word - just say it exploded. The word is overused.
Since you have so many issues I think replacement of the whole opener is the right choice.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
The use of the word “literally” never bothered me, till it started getting used literally in the opposite way of the literal definition of the word “literally”
“Ironic” is another one.lol
alfadan
Well-known member
I'd guess its the same as the other resistors around those relays. Red-red-brown-gold. 220ohm 5% tolerance. Half watt looks to me. Traces and/or pads on the board are probably toasty.
Innovate1
Well-known member
At first I thought you meant laterally, but wondered why the direction of the explosion was noted.
Is this it? Possibly green/purple/brown/gold?
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At first I thought you meant laterally, but wondered why the direction of the explosion was noted.
When I first the read the reply I read laterally. The motor cap was positioned such that the end, where all the stuff came, was pointed directly at the board in a lateral direction, about two inches away. so that would work. Then I reread and looked it up!
Now my brain is starting to hurt!
That's it. Not exact, but close enough. My board dose not have the little blue adjustment thing in the first pic, but it does have the holes on the PC board where it goes. And my board has six terminal screws (not 3).
Colors are still hard to make out.
I do have a new opener ready to install. I think there were problems with the old one. We had had a nearby lighting strike a year or so ago and I have had problem with the A/C unit and water pump. It must have weakened the caps in both and I had to replaced the capacitor in both cases. I guess the opener was just next, That is why I replaced the cap first. I had a spare for the A/C that would work for a test. Then I bought a cheap one that exploded.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
Guess I should have added this to the original post. The upper right resistor is the original.
Mine too! I can't find the upper right resistor...