Can you notch an I joist?

[MoonRise]

As said earlier, NO you can not notch an I-joist.

You can NOT cut/drill/notch the flanges (except to cut to length).

There are limits on holes in the web (size, spacing, location). RTFM from the manufacturer.

example:

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1390

You do NOT just go and cut a joist mid-span and leave it like that.

If you have to cut a joist (I-joist or any other type) mid-span, you go and 'box' out the cut section and run cross-joists to the adjacent joists in order to tie everything back together. Examples of having to cut joists mid-span would be for stairs or plumbing.

Or depending on the manufaturer's design/installation guidelines, you may be 'allowed' to shift one floor joist up to 3" for plumbing clearance (Georgia-Pacific manual, YMMV depending on the manufacturer so RTFM).

http://www.gp.com/build/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository=BP&elementid=4372

If your 'designer' said "OK, just leave a cut in the mid-span of a floor joist", then FIRE him/her/them right NOW. Cause they are an idiot.

If the floor joist was needed, it was needed. If the floor joist wasn't needed, then it shouldn't have been installed in the first place.

G-P I-Joist simple-span maximum span L/480 (stiffer than 'code', but results in a firmer and less bouncy floor and is recommended by G-P) with a 12" deep (actual is 11-7/8" deep) joist and a 24' span at 16" OC says you need a GPI-90 series joist (OSB web and LVL flanges) at that 16" OC spacing. That floor joist is needed.

IMNSHO.

 

[buddyboy]

i ran into the exact same situation with one of my bathrooms.

call the 800# on your joist plans, tell them where it was notched and they'll advise you on the best way to fix it.

I had to fill the web on one side for x amount of feet and then brace with a glued and screwed 2x8 for x amount of feet on the other side.

i was lucky it happened to a joist that did not have a huge span and did not have any load bearing walls above it near by.

have the company fax or email the instructions so you can show the inspector for inspection,

if this is in your basement and will be exposed I suggest making a copy of it, putting it in a zip lock bag and stapling it to the joist so if you ever sell the house the home inspector will see it.

good luck

 

[ydna]

Can you not just remove the joist completely and then install two new ones, one on each side of the plumbing? You'll be reducing the spacing between joists, which no one can complain about. Whats the problem?

 

[bobemmerich]

http://www.jlevandiersales.com/Legacy/products/product-canplas.html

Thats what I used to do mine. Worked pretty good. of course, I have regular 90 yr old joists. As stated, the web can be cut, but not the top or bottom. Read the MFR. specs and it will say.

 

[Thorold]

This brings back memories of a show i saw on engineering. I'd still call the MFG, though.

So, when this beam sags a bit the top plate would be under compression and the bottom plate under tension. In the middle though there is an area that is under neither and it's the reason they were allowed to drill holes to lighten it remembering that any weight removed lightens the load that the plates have to support.

 

[72Anthony]

Have you considered a trench drain (also called a linear or slit drain)?

http://www.quickdrainusa.com/gallery.php

I have seen them in some high end houses mounted where the floor meets the wall with the shower controls. Looks very cool. It also permits a single slope.

 

[Big_Jim]

Guy's see post #34

 

[ms fowler]

As a former building inspector, The best advice I've seen ( besides the offset drain) is to look at the manufacturer's specs. They are specific, and they rule in these situations. As has been said, do not cut the flanges. Holes in the middle are permitted, but as defined ( exactly) by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer says a 6 inch diameter hole is permitted, do not cut a 6 1/4 inch hole.

 

[ydna]

guy's see post #34

lol!!

 

[Big_Jim]

Time to kill this thread.

 

[Toolfool]

You got them going.

 

[Big_Jim]

I know like rubbing a cats fur backwards.

 

[MoonRise]

Big Jim,

Yup, you answered what you did in Post#34. Smaller shower stall so the drain lands in between the joists.

I confused who the OP was with reference to cyamaha2007's Post#40, where he seems to have mentioned that he just cut an I-joist and left it like that and his designer said 'OK'. Hence my strongly worded reply.

Good luck with the project.

 

[cyamaha2007]

Read my earlier post I did not just cut a joist in mid air and leave it. Im not that stupid but the designer did say that if i failed completely it would still be ok. Look at my attached crappy drawing

 

[Big_Jim]

This is how it turned out. Boy that was close but it fit.

 

[EvilWelder]

Shoulda framed with steel, as long as the flanges are unmolested you can do a lot of damage to the web without combing the penetration.

 

[Big_Jim]

Shoulda framed with steel, as long as the flanges are unmolested you can do a lot of damage to the web without combing the penetration.

??