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Can you recommend an extractor set?

Black89LX

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I am looking at getting an extractor set. I was wondering if one of these sets were better than the others.

E1020 20pc Extractor Set
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...d=1254&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

EXDL10 10pc Left Hand Fluted Extractor Set
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...d=1254&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

SR40K Tapered Bit Extractor Set
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...d=1258&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

I already have a 10pc Craftsman fluted socket set for rounded bolt heads or nuts, but I haven't had an opportunity to use it... I have come across situations where a tapered bit style exractor would have been useful.

Does anyone have one of these sets?

Or is another style better?

Thanks
 
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G1GRANDEUR

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EXDL10 would be the most useful out of those three.

And also get those socket style stud remover.
 

Steevo

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The issue I have with the tapered fluted sets is the expanding force of the bit can tend to expand the very screw/bolt you are trying to extract.

I have the E1020 set (or whatever it was called 25 years ago when I bought it), and I really like the straight flute extractors. This kit has served me well all of these years, and other than not being to find a Snap-On man anywhere these days for replacements, I'd buy it again.
 

bobcatdan

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Get the first set. Its been made by Ridgid for years because it works. Other styles of extractors can spread the bolt making it tighter. I would still get a left hand drill bit set too.
 

littletoes

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Can't say how many hours a year I have spent using the PROTO version Buco has listed above, beating on them, and wrenching on them. Those are the ones I'd suggest.
 

JASTECH

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Gering, NE
I had tried the spiral cone style (Easy-outs) years ago and didn't like do to the binding it created via thought and application. The last set I bought are straight splined as not to expand the bolt/screw into the sides causing binding. I have seen new style that drill the hole ccw and then threads into bolt ccw and unscrews it. I need something for studs for 4bt work.
Thanks, JASTECH
 

Outlawmws

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What ever brand you buy, I'd also vote for the straight flute extractors.

I think every extractor I've broken has been the spiral type, and I'm not sure I recall ever breaking the others.

Definitely get some leaf hand drill bits for these because sometimes, that is all you need.
 
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Black89LX

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thanks for the input

the only time I used a spiral extractor, it broke... so I am more hesitant to buy that set than the others

as far as the Proto set goes, how does it compare to the SR40K set? it looks of similar design, I can find it for around $120...
 
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mtkst19

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blitzburgh pa
I have the E1020 set (or whatever it was called 25 years ago when I bought it), and I really like the straight flute extractors. This kit has served me well all of these years, and other than not being to find a Snap-On man anywhere these days for replacements, I'd buy it again.


my set is in a "mac" box. we have no mac dealer anymore. Co worker has a snappy/blue point box. that we do have. So when i break these he turns them in for replacement.

with that said, if you got a mac dealer wanna trade boxes, lol
 

diesel research

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That 10pc kit is at napa/everywhere else for around ~$30. As a matter of fact, everything that SO sells made by irwin is almost exactly double. I don't think that COO is correct, as I am pretty sure the drill bits are from brazil, they spent BIG money on some plant down there.

It may still make sense since they are prone to breakage though.

I have used them successfully, but there are a few tricks. HEAT IS STILL INVOLVED. A lot of people missed that step. If a fastener is corroded and caused the bolt to break, extractors don't magically free up that corrosion and heat/penetrant is still needed. Probably wouldn't have broke if it was used in the first place. 2nd thing is a lot of times people end up using some othe sized drill bit and haven't drilled deep enough or wide enough. Hardened bolts so they give up when ever it looks "close enough". Doesn't work so well when the hole is so shallow only the tip engages. 3rd, I have saw many who just give it a continuous turning motion until it breaks. Can't do that, very small turns, then release. It will spring back almost half the distance. At same time, I am watching the fastener. If it hasn't moved and I've made a quarter turn, gotta stop and try something else or more heat.

I tend to use these instead. (25pc)
585-52201.EPS.JPG
 

DARKSCOPE001

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I tend to use these instead. (25pc)
585-52201.EPS.JPG

Those are the kind I like to use too. I use easyouts alot at work to take screws and stuff that have stripped heads out. But yes penetrating oil and heat help alot. But if the bolt head is broken dont just reach for the extractor. The bolt head broke off for a reason. If you have to use an extractor on a bolt your day is in general. Going to ****.

But for smaller screws and stuff I like the Hanson/ Irwin style extractors the most. Never broke anything big so I cant speak on that. But working on aircraft screws are plentiful and stripped alot.

Good Luck
Sean Scott
 
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Black89LX

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Ive seen the multi spline version used before... I just didnt think they bit into the bolt deep enough. it didnt work that time but then again, the bolt was rusted in an aluminum bracket... ended up drilling it out and tapping the hole

what is the warranty for the Irwin/Hanson products?
 

ptschram

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I have never had good luck with extractors.

I started using left-hand drill bits about ten years ago and my success with removing broken stuff has improved greatly.
 

84scrambler

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Another vote for EXDL10. I have used it numerous times over the past few years with great success. The reverse drill bit removed my bolts over 90% of the time.
 

diesel research

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Another vote for EXDL10. I have used it numerous times over the past few years with great success. The reverse drill bit removed my bolts over 90% of the time.

I have never had good luck with extractors.

I started using left-hand drill bits about ten years ago and my success with removing broken stuff has improved greatly.

Ive seen the multi spline version used before... I just didnt think they bit into the bolt deep enough. it didnt work that time but then again, the bolt was rusted in an aluminum bracket... ended up drilling it out and tapping the hole

what is the warranty for the Irwin/Hanson products?


thanks for the input

the only time I used a spiral extractor, it broke... so I am more hesitant to buy that set than the others

as far as the Proto set goes, how does it compare to the SR40K set? it looks of similar design, I can find it for around $120...

After you read this and take a moment to soak in all the mixed reviews of various extractor types, you will have to realize no one single extractor type is 100% successful. Not left hand bits by themselves, spiral, multi spiral, welding nuts/extractor rods, carbide end mills, straight extractors, none of it.

I have had all methods fail. Even high dollar specialty arc welding extractor rods. Have a magnesium rim with a broken carbide mill stuck inside of it (only option is EDM)

So you aren't going to just buy 1 single type and become 100% successful Mr. Masterexractitall.

Some key principles will still remain. Loosening force, vibration, heat, penetrant. Even then, sometimes nothing is going to work with feasible cost. Watched a $1000 4x4 front axle basically go to scrap pile because no extractor methods were loosening the broken stud, and eventually all the force put on the stud cracked the housing instead. Still didn't come out.
 
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