Can you spot the problem?

[Will67]

Look at the picture and see if you can spot the problem:

here is the other side of same:

The contractor who did my concrete work also did my rough plumbing. He was working off the same set of plans I am using to layout and build the walls. Why did he put the vent stack for the toilet right below the window (never mind the fact that he poured a "pedestal" for the toilet because he said he could not get the 1/8 or 1/4 inch per foot elevation change for this toilet to connect into my existing sewer line).

From the first photo...I can not go to the left because that is where the man door opening is. Not sure if I can go to right, because of the shear requirements.

Any constructive suggestions?

 

[Gary S]

The problem. Plumbing in a garage. To me, that is a no-no.

 

[nate379]

Ah... no not at all. Where do you expect to piss and **** otherwise? Having a sink is nice too.

 

[sammerdog]

Meh, I've seen worse. Run a three-ish foot length of pipe at a 45* angle up and away from the man door. Punch a few holes thru the studs and go up thru the first available wall cavity.

I've seen the raised throne in quite a few instances. Sometimes they raise just the *******, sometimes they raise the whole bathroom. Not a big deal.

 

[Kevin54]

Looks like a price adjustment on the building is in order!!!!

 

[independentrider]

how big of deal is it to have that window there? can you put the window on the otherside of the door?

 

[duaneb9729]

if it is your vent for your toilet you can just 90 it over to a clear space and 90 back up and go out through the roof, after you fire the framer.

My concern would be the garage door header, being supported by one stud, to me it looks like it should have been carried through to the far side of the window

 

[hydramatic]

how about the new vents, that don`t go through the roof...won`t vent sewer gas but the ball and spring will uncap to let in air so it won`t pull a vacuum....go 4 on my house...no holes in the roof

 

[independentrider]

better check the codes on that 90 degree thing. around here they need to be a straight shot

 

[His200HerScout]

Using your bottom photo for reference... You can put a 90 degree fitting onto your vent stack, bore horizontally through all five studs to the left of the vent stack, and put another 90 degree fitting to bring you back vertical. Then reinforce the bored-out studs with stud shoes.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HSS-SS.asp

That's the theory. Ask your building inspector about the stud shoes and your plumbing inspector about the two 90 degree fittings.

If you can't do that, maybe make the window narrower or get rid of it.

 

[redsky49]

You can certainly offset the vent, though the vent has to be able to drain back towards the waste connection. That is, the vent has to continuously extend up to VTR. You will need to 45, followed by another 45 and then up to VTR. No natural traps are allowed on a vent line.

Maybe it's the pic angle or I'm just not reading it right, but the vent line looks pretty large. No reason to go larger than 2" for the vent. 2" will handle the entire toilet area.

Are you planning for the clean-out fitting to be outside of the building? It also looks like the cold water line for the toilet is going to be located in an exterior wall. In a cold climate the CW line has to protected against freezing.

Occasionally extreme actions have to be taken to meet the plumbing invert elevations. Waste should be typically sloped at 1/4" to 1/2" per foot. A slope of 1/8", while still allowed by most codes, generally leads to problems when combined with the current low-flow toilets. There is simply not enough "carry" in the flush cycle to move solids down the line (note that some fixtures are much better than others in this regard). The alternative to raising the water closet would be to pump the waste, but that seems excessive for a garage. Just have the Contractor finish off the pedestal in a business like manner. Should make a nice tile project.

As always, offered only as opinion

 

[ZRX61]

My concern would be the garage door header, being supported by one stud, to me it looks like it should have been carried through to the far side of the window

Ditto........

 

[Will67]

Thanks for the input. I have not checked with the County for code as far as going through the 2x6 studs and venting up through a clear wall cavity. I guess I am just pissed that the cement contractor is also a GC and wanted to do the whole job...slab to roof. He and I talked about all aspects of the build, but he put the vent right underneath the window.

The framing contractor is has fixed so many problems the other contractor did I am not even considering firing him, he is saving my ****. Every single anchor bolt on one wall the cement contractor set to low. Right on the plans it states 3x6 plate to meet shear requirements, but nah lets just set em low and hope the home owner does not notice. Now I have to retrofit all the bolts and epoxy in the anchor bolts for the HDU5's.

Duane: the header you refer to is for the man door. The garage header is a gluelamb which is not shown.

Redsky49: the vent is 2" just above a 3" clean-out.

 

[Small Engine]

I guess in CA you don't need to worry about freezing. I've never seen a cleanout on the out side either. As Hydramatic said use an airgap and put an AC vent cover on the wall to let air in. They are in the code. I've used them too and they are great. On a header that size I would have used more than 1 2x too.

SE

 

[tdkkart]

But, but, but, who the hell spec'd a crapper right in front of the window, or a window right above the crapper?? The crapper should have been on the other side of the room so at least you could look out when crappin'...........

 

[Costner]

how about the new vents, that don`t go through the roof...won`t vent sewer gas but the ball and spring will uncap to let in air so it won`t pull a vacuum....go 4 on my house...no holes in the roof

As Hydramatic said use an airgap and put an AC vent cover on the wall to let air in. They are in the code. I've used them too and they are great.

You need to check the code carefully anytime you try to use an air gap (cheater vent). They aren't allowed in all cases and the inspector will need to be sure there wasn't a way around it if one is used. You also need access to them since they can and do require maintenance.

Also, a cheater vent needs to be installed above the flood level of the highest fixture, so in this case the vent line would still need to be extended upwards above the rim of the sink, and then you would need a vent or access panel to be able to access the cheater vent in case it would need servicing.

I'd avoid it if at all possible. If those are 2x6 studs you should be able to take the vent horizontal through the studs and then back vertical. However since that window isn't centered above the toilet you might consider moving the position of the window over which would then allow you room to take the vent in a more direct path.

I might even consider simply removing the window entirely... unless you like to stare out the window while taking a leak of course.

 

[kbs2244]

Tdkkart has a very good point.

This should have been caught at the paper stage.

 

[independentrider]

dont let this bring you down. I used to do commercial construction, this is just something that comes up. It will be fine and you'll have a great garage!

 

[white64]

Shouldn't there be jackstuds in the window opening? You've got one 2x4 supporting the header on each side, you could have 2 on each side with another stud in the window area.

 

[jacob]

So, what, EXACTLY, does the original plan call for? I missed whether or not this was done to plan.

 

[Von Dutchoven]

i'd move the window
john

 

[Engineer Eric]

i'd move the window

That is what I was thinking. Just move the window over 16" - problem solved.

I was also wondering about the jack studs in the window opening...

 

[Zeke]

Just saw this thread. I thought the "problem" was going to be a lack of a water rough in.

 

[Bubbles]

I would be more worried about the 1 2x6 holding up your door span.

 

[allapanoo]

Even with 2x6 walls I would recommend double cripples on everything.

 

[njfl]

I've used the cheater vents for a kitchen sink, but never for a toilet. That being said, I like the idea of one less hole in the roof. Someone mentioned that you would need access to teh vent. How about putting a register vent on the wall to access it.

 

[kdtjb]

Look at all the money you saved on the extra 6" of fill you would have had to buy to make grade for the plumbing. You can pay me now or you can pay later.

 

[galwaytt]

Shouldn't there be jackstuds in the window opening? You've got one 2x4 supporting the header on each side, you could have 2 on each side with another stud in the window area.

....My concern would be the garage door header, being supported by one stud, to me it looks like it should have been carried through to the far side of the window

I would be more worried about the 1 2x6 holding up your door span.

Even with 2x6 walls I would recommend double cripples on everything.

Look at all the money you saved on the extra 6" of fill you would have had to buy to make grade for the plumbing. You can pay me now or you can pay later.

Ditto for me: the first thing that caught me eye was the cripples - or lack thereof..........off the top of my head, that'd need 3 cripples, around here........

As for the vent - no biggie imho to use bends and vent. But, one snag: drilling (what - is that a 3" vent) through a 6" cripple (the only one, remember) is a big no-no for me - you've just halved the size of the only cripple...). Not good, imho.

 

[mtne]

I'd agree that the header support was the first thing I noticed...........

As for the vent fix I'd just 45 it over to the left stud in the first picture and run straight up from there. It makes the window smaller but avoids drilling the kingstuds.

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

But, but, but, who the hell spec'd a crapper right in front of the window, or a window right above the crapper?? The crapper should have been on the other side of the room so at least you could look out when crappin'...........

I have a window right beside the crapper in my upstairs bathroom. I can sit on the throne, open the window and let the cool breeze in while I stink the place up...

 

[aabirdman]

You shouldn't need cripples with a full length timmer transfering all the load to the sill plate. Ask the inspector about drilling through the end point of that shear wall.

 

[Rosco]

Everything looks fine. Should be able to vent over beside the window with a 2" pipe on 45 degrees (2) to get it there. Make sure it is in code. I would have no issues ctting a 2" hole in a 2X6 for the solid vent (beef the studs if you want) to get it to the roof.

If the inspectors have an issue, ask them their solution and have them show you. Be sure your re-route will allow water to drain all the way back (no horizontally level runs).