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Can't Open my Safe

jaw22w

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Dec 28, 2019
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195
Location
indiana
I have a Protex safe, model HD100, about 15 years old in my shop that I keep a couple of guns and titles and such in. It has an electronic lock. It hadn't been opened for quite a while. Yesterday, I went to open it. I had some trouble opening it. It finally came open about the 5th or 6th try. I got some stuff out, then closed it. About 2 hours later, I went to put the stuff back in the safe but could not open it. I have tried a bunch of times since with no success.
My first thought was to call a locksmith. Apparently locksmithing is a dying profession. Plenty of places around to get a key made, but the closest real locksmith is 80 miles away. I know nothing about locks, electric or otherwise and not sure what a locksmith can do with an electronic lock, anyway.
The door is 3/8" plate. I could fire up the acetylene torch, but we all know what that is going to do to the papers inside, and I really would rather not kill my safe. I am at a loss!
Not really pressing, but probably sooner rather than later, I am going to need a title out of there.
Anybody been here before? What did you do?
 
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cgrutt

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Could it be just a weak battery? What lock is it (manufacturer/model number)? Does safe have a secondary method of access in event lock fails?
 

NitroExpress

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Feb 13, 2024
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Texas
From the interwebs:
The lock on the HD-73 is a battery powered electronic lock. There is a power override box and 2 override keys included in-case the batteries die or the lock fails

Might try fresh batteries? Do you remember having any “override keys”?
 
OP
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jaw22w

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indiana
To further explain. I believe the batteries are good because the light lights and beeps when I enter the code, and I am sure of the code, my birth date, my wife's birth date and my son's birth date.
This safe has a provision to plug in an external battery override, so the safe can be opened in case of dead batteries. I tried that also, a dozen times. No go.
There is no key and no hole for a key to go in.
 
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jaw22w

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indiana
Give protex a call?
Yes, I am going to call them this AM, but they are in California and probably still sleeping. I am in Indiana, three hours later. I have their number and will call them around noonish.

This style has override wire that you attach external 9V battery. Id also try factory default code in case it somehow reset.
I have tried the external battery override. No go.
Now, trying the default code is a good idea. I am not in the shop right now, but I will try that asap. It might work.
Thanks
 

cgrutt

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Yes, I am going to call them this AM, but they are in California and probably still sleeping. I am in Indiana, three hours later. I have their number and will call them around noonish.

I have tried the external battery override. No go.
Now, trying the default code is a good idea. I am not in the shop right now, but I will try that asap. It might work.
Thanks
Good luck. Also try putting some pressure on handle while putting code in per the other video. I know its old school but I never trusted electronic keypads on safes. I have an old mechanical S&G on my safe.
 

driftpin

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I had to A.I. cgrutt's post:

Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) mechanical safe locks, such as the industry-standard Model 6730, are 3-wheel, Group 2 combination locks designed for high security and durability in safes. They use a standard 4-3-2-1 left-right-left dialing sequence to unlock, featuring 1,000,000+ potential combinations, metal wheels, and built-in protection against punch or manipulation attacks.
 

cgrutt

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I had to A.I. cgrutt's post:

Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) mechanical safe locks, such as the industry-standard Model 6730, are 3-wheel, Group 2 combination locks designed for high security and durability in safes. They use a standard 4-3-2-1 left-right-left dialing sequence to unlock, featuring 1,000,000+ potential combinations, metal wheels, and built-in protection against punch or manipulation attacks.
Sorry just meant old school mechanical dial lock.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
To further explain. I believe the batteries are good because the light lights and beeps when I enter the code, and I am sure of the code, my birth date, my wife's birth date and my son's birth date.
This safe has a provision to plug in an external battery override, so the safe can be opened in case of dead batteries. I tried that also, a dozen times. No go.
There is no key and no hole for a key to go in.
The obvious answer is .....you have your wife's birthdate wrong.

I've been married for 30+ years ..... this is the way.....
 

Snip

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Crossville, Tennessee
I know that you said that you would like to preserve the safe and also not damage the contents but if all else fails this is my method. Most home owner grade safes are heavy duty looking doors/ pins from the front. However in my experience the case itself is not. Most of the ones I have "opened" have had very thin steel on the back, filled with a fibrous cement type filling for fire protection. Grinder with a zip wheel gets you thru the skin, chip the cement away and drill the inner liner in 4 corners and use the zip wheel to cut most of the way thru to steel ( use caution here as some safes have a carpet type lining inside and you do not want to start a fire) to weaken it, grab a corner and pull it out. At this point you should be able to access your contents and the backside of the door and access the lock area to manually open it. Once opened to can patch the inside, refill the space with what ever product you like and put some new metal over it. Most crooks are lazy (jails are not filled with the smartest folks) and won't pull a safe out from the wall to notice the back. If it's small enough to carry they would have just taken it with them anyway.
 
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NUTTSGT

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This style has override wire that you attach external 9V battery. Id also try factory default code in case it somehow reset.
On a serious note, don't apply 120V power to the external 9V battery adapter.

I've seen this happen and used a Hurst Strongarm to forcibly open the safe.
 

dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
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Austin, TX
I sent a letter to my safe company and a copy of the purchase receipt plus the general info on the safe and they sent me the combo to open it. This was 23 years after purchase.
Zim
This. We bought a big safe recently and the dummies didn't provide the keys or access code. They said they'd "look" for them, but we couldn't open the safe. It was a Winchester branded safe. Called them, provided the ID number on the safe and a copy of our receipt, they sent us a physical key and gave us a code to open in it.

All of my electronic safes have "mechanical overrides" IE - keys...
 

bassJAM

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Cincinnati, OH
If you're able to get the safe opened, see if the lock is replaceable. Many gun safes use a Group 2 UL size lock which are pretty easy to replace. I'd put a mechanical lock from S&G or Lagard. You can set them with any combination you want.
 

Shiftless

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This from the Protex page listed above…
Maybe all models don’t have this feature or ???
I have one electronic safe and it has a Mechanical Key too.

4686826C-A5FF-4C71-97A2-0C4B1006CA8B.jpeg
 
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strength_and_power

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Electronic locks work. Until they don’t. Are you getting any response when you push the buttons? Remove the batteries.push every button and let sit for 15 minutes. Use Duracell or Energizer. ( Walmart is a good place to get batteries, lots of turnover of stock. Just don’t use Walmart batteries). Replace batteries and let sit 15 minutes. Try your code pushing buttons slowly and firmly. If it opens, don’t shut it again
 
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jaw22w

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indiana
I got a hold of Protex. The tech said from the beeps I was getting that the lock pad was not seeing the power from the external battery override. The plug is 2 very small pins, Wasn't making contact in the socket even though plugged in. I bent the pins together just a little bit and was able to open the safe.
Thanks guys. That had me going. I put in new batteries!
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I went through this 8-9 months ago. One of the things I learned from the safe company is you need NEW and FRESH batteries. I had never thought to look before, but batteries have a good to date on the packaging. At the time, fall of 2025, the best 9V batteries were dated 2030. The 'new' one I had installed was a 2027. The lady didn't exactly cut me off the phone call but she very strongly said I need to try a 2030 battery and then call back. That didn't fix my problem but to me it was interesting info.
 

BombShelter

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Nov 16, 2015
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State of Hockey
This guy has videos on how to open anything with a lock


 

aggie113

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Jul 22, 2015
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San Antonio, TX
I would never trust an electronic lock for dependability . as said before, they work well , until they don't... and it's just a matter of how long
I have a Sturdy Safe with a nice S&G mechanical lock on it. After about 3 years I started to have issues opening it. I would have to try multiple times or would need to pound around the lock (never on it) with a weighted mallet to get it to work. Tried changing the combo and that worked for a short while. Not sure what caused the issue, some form of combo drift. I could have had a smith out under warranty to replace it but was easier for me to just order a new 6730 lock and swap it out (was already familiar with it having built a cut demo stand unit to play around with "safe cracking" while at work).
 

Blk88GT

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Manitoba
Glad you got it opened. I went through a similar situation with mine, ended up having to get them to send me a new keypad. Apparently it's a "known issue" but I couldn't get in for ~2 weeks!
 

Codyboy

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Glad you got it opened. I went through a similar situation with mine, ended up having to get them to send me a new keypad. Apparently it's a "known issue" but I couldn't get in for ~2 weeks!
I had an issue with an S&G on my cannon where it would only unlock at random.
Called cannon and after some troubleshooting they sent me a new keypad. Safe was my dad's and probably 15 y.o. I guess.
They warrantied the lock.
It wasn't an exact fit and I had to drill and tap one of the screw holes to line up.
 

BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
Have been thinking about getting a safe and always felt uncomfortable with the electronic ones. This thread just verified my concern :) Mechanical it will be for me. Call me old fashioned but i feel the same way about house locks, crazy thermostats etc.
 

captmoto

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Apr 29, 2007
Messages
364
I have not been in your situation, but I have seen the fire department cut the top off of a safe with a diamond saw. The contents were undamaged. Obviously a last resort measure.
Top or bottom is usually not hardened like the door or walls.
 

ATC

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May 12, 2012
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VA
25 years on my cheap electronic lock with zero issues. No key backup either (which I would have liked).

Next safe will be a big TL-30 with whatever lock it comes with...I ain't scared.
 

Junkman

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Northeastern CT
5-gallon plastic pail buried in the garden 3' down. Just don't die without telling someone you trust where it is and what is in it.
 

ar2stp48

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Feb 20, 2008
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503
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Magnolia, Arkansas
Glad you were able to get it opened. My suggestion: do not tempt your luck; do not close and lock the door

Replace that e-lock with a S&G series 6700 dial lock. The 6730, already mentioned, has a closer tolerance on dialing of +/_ 1/2 number; for those spinning the dial fast and having difficulty dialing numbers, the 6741 series has a much greater tolerance.
Both are excellent security; 4 number with the first 3 changeable, They are key change for easy combination changing

Opinion is based on 30+ years as a safe tech; and many e-locks replaced (trashed) in favor of a dial lock
 
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