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Cantilevered shelf support

bbailey

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
74
Location
Chanhassen, MN
I am looking to build a storage shelf that is about 2-3 feet wide and up to 20 feet long. It will be positioned high enough on the wall that I can park my 8’ trailer underneath it. I have 16’ high walls. The shelf will hold items that will be seldom accessed (Extra tires/wheels, parts...)

The wall is sheet rocked with standard wood 2x4 framing behind the sheetrock. I will likely build the shelf with a 2x4 frame and a finished wood or sheetrock finish.

Preferably, I would like it cantilevered for design reasons. I can’t have it supported from posts underneath as I have the trailer below it. It may be possible to use cable as a way of additional support. I would like a high tech look, but it does not have to be over the top.

Does anyone have examples or ideas on this?
 
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atotalnincompoop

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Joined
Apr 9, 2006
Messages
222
Location
thunder bay
hanging it with cables bolted to your trusses will work and give it a high tech look. just be carefull of overloading, its easy to get too much weight on a shelf. :)
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
There is no way to cantilever on an inside wall mid way up. You'll have to hang the front rail of the shelf. People use all thread, cable and even EMT that has been formed flat at the end and drilled for a lag. Unistrut works well on the ceiling for attaching if the ceiling is already finished off.

If this is really a little accessed shelf, you could string cable like this:
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

<><><><><><><><>

Somewhere in between the two. Just make sure you can move things on and off the shelf with not too much hassle.

/ \ / \ / \ / \ / \

(I'm just having too much fun ;):) )
 
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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,246
Location
SE MI
There is no way to cantilever on an inside wall mid way up.
I concur !

I have a bigger shelf along my back wall. The back of the shelf sits on a 2x8 ledger board nailed to each stud. The front 2x8 is nailed to the studs on the side walls and has one cantilever support down to the bottom plate in the center.

If you really want that shelf, you are going to need a post or at least a cantilever support running down to the bottom plate. Then you can go 4-5' wide if you don't overload it. I also recommend 1x6 or better yet 5/4x6 deck boards.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,246
Location
SE MI
Well, I am going to change my opinion (and that is all it is worth).

First, the shelf must go from side wall to side wall.

Second, you need to peel the drywall off of the side walls, because you need to nail the cross members (actually floor joists) to the side wall studs and then support them with jack studs. This means you need 20' long 2x10s, one per side wall stud. (2x12s on 16" spacing would be close to "standard" floor loading for a 20' span.)

I would use a 2x6 as a ledger in the back. Just make certain it is nailed to each stud along the back wall.

3/4 plywood will be fine with 16" joist spacing.

EDIT: With a 20' span, you will need cross bracing between those 2x10 so they can't twist. Also, if your side walls are built with standard 2x4s, I would seriously consider laying another PT footer down next to the original footer and use 2x8 jack studs. Add blocking between those side wall studs so the jack studs can nor twist.
 
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