Capacitor question 3 v 2 prong

[machsnell]

A/c unit wouldn't kick up and would keep trying. I found out an hour before supply house closed and so I went to grab a new capacitor.

Both are 45 + 5's but original has 2 prongs (for red and orange wires)

New i just got home has 3 prongs - c, fan and the herm

Am I ok to connect the new 3 prong to the fan and c only?

Is orange c prong and red goes to fan?

Or do i need a 2 prong capacitor?

Thx

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[Jim greengo]

Normally the c has power coming from contactor.
Is it for the fan or the compressor?

 

[TuxThePenguin]

You need at least 3 wires to have 2 capacitors. Can you post a photo of the original? Are you sure it isn't just a 45? If it were a 45 OR a 5, you could use the correct 2 terminals of the new capacitor and ignore the other. Assuming it is otherwise the correctly-rated capacitor. Those dual capacitors are typically a start and a run capacitor, but you would have 3 (or 4) wires for that...

 

[machsnell]

Fan wouldn't kick on.

It would just draw down power and hum and stop. Then repeat in 3 mins or so

Old capacitor was worn a bit but guy at first place wrote on it that it was a 45 + 5%. He didn't have one.

So I went into next place minutes before they closed and said I needed a 45 + 5

They gave a 45+5 (mf) +-6%

Will that work?

Also if your heat pump/a/c unit only has a 2 prong capacitor does that always mean its for the fan or can it be for both fan or compressor?

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[machsnell]

This is original and guy at first place wrot the 45 + 5% on the bottom because it is worn off.

New one is 45+5 +-6%

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[Bert_]

A 45+5 is two capacitors in the same case, a 45mfd and a 5mfd. The big one is for the compressor and the small is for the fan.

Some units use separate capacitors for the compressor and fan. Functionality it is the same.

 

[Bert_]

The capacitor in the first picture is just a 45mfd cap, no + 5.

You can use the second capacitor if you want. Just use the terminals marked C and Herm

 

[machsnell]

Thanks bert

My old capacitor isn't marked so not sure which wire the red or orange should go to com and herm?



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[rattle_snake]

doesn't matter single capacitors of this type are non-polarized.

double capacitors are labeled as one side of each cap is connected internally together for one external terminal, the one to power source.

Exception is flux capacitor but that is another story.

 

[The Cobbler]

the 45 & 5% is a 45 cap with 5% tolerance
you want a 45MF cap with 240 volt I would think

 

[mikebaker1129]

The original capacitor is marked, it is a 45 uf.
The dual capacitor you purchased is 2 in 1.
"C" to "herm"is 45uf , from c to fan is 5 uf.
45uf seems very large for a fan, are you sure the 45uf is not for the compressor?

In your case you just had 1 orange wire and 1 red wire on your old capacitor ?
If this is the case, then connect 1 wire to herm and the other to C.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

doesn't matter single capacitors of this type are non-polarized.

That is not 100% correct. Capacitors are only polarized for use in DC circuits. For AC circuits they are only non-polarized if they're marked "NP" or "NPR". Even then, the ones used for motor starting are not really "polarized", but there is a "line" and a "load" terminal. The terminal with a dash near it or a dot on the plastic shroud is connected to line. There used to be some old wives tales that the solder dot on the top indicates the line terminal is on the left when the dot is at 12 o'clock, but that info has basically been proven wrong.

Tommy

 

[rattle_snake]

Agreed that is why I stated 'of this type'.
Some non-polarized caps are actually 2 polarized caps in series, back to back, for use in AC circuits. An example are large electrolytic caps ($$$) for audio filters.

 

[bazar01]

They gave a 45+5 (mf) +-6%

Will that work?

Also if your heat pump/a/c unit only has a 2 prong capacitor does that always mean its for the fan or can it be for both fan or compressor?

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1. Yes, use use terminals herm and c.

2. Trace the wires from the cap where they go. Wiggle them and follow the wires
If the unit has a wiring schematics, it should show the wire colors and where they go. Usually, 45mfd goes to the compressor.

 

[machsnell]

So cap didn't work.

Compressor is shot.

$8.5k est to replace! Not a good day.



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[Terry D]

Im not following you here or I am reading something wrong. You fourth post says the fan wont come on, it just sits and hums, and keeps trying. Which sounds like a compressor trying to start. Now you say the compressor is shot. Is it a compressor or a fan problem? Make sure you have a good capacitor, Did the unit originally have 1 or 2 caps? If you are trying to convert from one to another, and are not familiar with this, it could be confusing. Go back with the same configuration from what you had , if its not making sense.

How old is the unit? hopefully the schematic is still in tack inside. Once you verify your cap(s) are wired correctly, now check all connections for being tight, even the sta-con connectors. Also check the connections at the compressor for not being burnt. Also ohm out the windings for a open. If all checks out good, and it still wont start. You might be able to install a simple hard start kit, which is just a additional capacitor wired in parallel with the compressor capacitor.

 

[Jim greengo]

Im not following you here or I am reading something wrong. You fourth post says the fan wont come on, it just sits and hums, and keeps trying. Which sounds like a compressor trying to start. Now you say the compressor is shot. Is it a compressor or a fan problem? Make sure you have a good capacitor, Did the unit originally have 1 or 2 caps? If you are trying to convert from one to another, and are not familiar with this, it could be confusing. Go back with the same configuration from what you had , if its not making sense.

How old is the unit? hopefully the schematic is still in tack inside. Once you verify your cap(s) are wired correctly, now check all connections for being tight, even the sta-con connectors. Also check the connections at the compressor for not being burnt. Also ohm out the windings for a open. If all checks out good, and it still wont start. You might be able to install a simple hard start kit, which is just a additional capacitor wired in parallel with the compressor capacitor.

What he said.

 

[machsnell]

It was humming everytime compressor would start amd lights would dim.

And fan would start.

Then fan wouldn't start as well as compressor.

One of the fuses in the disconnect was burnt out.

I replaced and then it wouldn't do anything.

I called my hvac company and he came out and did a real check of everything and said compressor was shot.



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[Terry D]

It was humming everytime compressor would start amd lights would dim.

And fan would start.

Then fan wouldn't start as well as compressor.

One of the fuses in the disconnect was burnt out.

I replaced and then it wouldn't do anything.

I called my hvac company and he came out and did a real check of everything and said compressor was shot.



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Gotcha. Didn't realize you had a company come out. Best of luck

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[LS6 Tommy]

Agreed that is why I stated 'of this type'.
Some non-polarized caps are actually 2 polarized caps in series, back to back, for use in AC circuits. An example are large electrolytic caps ($$$) for audio filters.

I get that, but the point I was trying to make is the wiring DOES matter.


Tommy

 

[nadogail]

I noticed that one of the capacitors is a Dayton brand. Dayton is a WW Grainger, house brand and I have been able to get Grainger service to open their local store On a Sunday to get a production line back in operation.

This was 20 years ago and their customer service May have changed.

 

[machsnell]

Yes i got that dayton from grainger but man they are now only open to 3pm weekdays and never sat or sunday in our area.



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[nadogail]

I had to call their national number and they called a representative from their local branch who met me at the store and handed me the part.

My employer at the time had an account with Granger and spent a lot of money with them every year.